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The Tran Quoc Pagoda in Hanoi is an eminent example of a singlestory pagoda built around many brick stupas. Considered to be Vietnam’s oldest pagoda, it was built by Emperor Ly Nam De in the 6th century AD on the banks of the Red River, but due to heavy erosion, the pagoda was shifted to its present site, Ho Tay (see p172). The Thay Pagoda in Hanoi rests on a stone platform supporting ironwood columns that carry the entire weight of the building. The low, steep-pitched roof features elaborate upswept eaves with dragon finials. Turned wooden grills admit a flow of fresh air. Living quarters for monks or nuns Diep Dong Nguyen House – ancient tube house in Hoi An Thanh long or dragon is associated in both Vietnamese and Chinese mythology with imperial power, prosperity, longevity, and good fortune. Dragon motifs are used extensively to decorate both pagodas and temples. Multi-tiered pagodas are derived from Chinese tradition. They are usually pointed at the top, and the roofs are made of terracotta tiles. Upswept eaves in the Tiled roof Sino-Viet fashion Characteristic Chinese-style “flying” eaves 030-031_EW_VTN.indd 30 17/07/14 3:23 PM a portrait of Vietnam 3 1 Royal Citadels Awe-inspiring and imposing, Vietnamese citadels were constructed to provide defense against both physical and spiritual attack. This was achieved by assuming Chinese characteristics of huge, square stone walls topped by battlements, along with elements of feng shui. Military architecture under French influence gave rise to citadels with massive, thick walls, ringed by moats, punctuated by towers, with crenellated ramparts and pentagonal bastions. The Ngo Mon Gate of Hue Citadel, made of thick stone walls and in accordance with the principles of feng shui, has five entrances. The central way, used solely by the emperor, is flanked by openings for mandarins of the royal court. Hien Nhon Gate at Hue Citadel is a fine example of Sino-Viet decorative elements combined with French military genius. This Chinese gate has elaborate turrets, as well as two-story platforms to provide vantage points for soldiers. French Architecture The capital of French Indochina in the 19th century, Hanoi was transformed with the construction of villas in French provincial style, administrative buildings emulating Parisian styles, and even Franco-Gothic structures such as Hanoi Cathedral. Hanoi’s State Guest House, once the residence of the French gov ernor, is a beautiful, restored French-Colonial building, with an elaborately upswept wroughtiron entrance. Louvered shutters Ornate wrought ironwork Interior courtyard for fresh air and to separate work and living areas. Narrow frontage for shop area Colorful present-day “rocket buildings” lined up in Hanoi First built during the Later Le Dynasty (1428–1788), “tube houses” can be as little as 6.5 ft (2 m) wide, but up to 262 ft (80 m) deep. Behind the shopfront are work areas, courtyards, and living rooms. Today, these houses have soared to create tall, thin “rocket buildings,” still limited in their ground area by the original land deeds. The Presidential Palace in Hanoi is a perfect example of the French-Colonial style, with a grand staircase, wrought-iron gates, Belle Époque filigree work, and colonnades. Built between 1900 and 1906, it is flanked by extensive gardens and orchards. The rear of the house was occupied by the kitchen and bathroom areas. Tube Architecture and its Present Adaptation 030-031_EW_VTN.indd 31 17/07/14 3:23 PM Eyewitness Travel Feature template (SourceReport v1.5) Date 15th October 2013 Size 125mm x 217mm “UK” LAYER LAYERS PRINTED: Tet Nguyen Dan As the country’s single most impor tant festival, Tet Nguyen Dan or Festival of the First Day marks the onset of the lunar new year. Celebrated as a time of rebirth and renewal, this spring festival serves as an opportunity for thanks giving and paying homage to ances tors. Preparations begin a week before Tet, as people clear their debts, clean the family tombs, decorate homes with peach blossoms or kumquat trees, and make offerings to the Jade Emp eror (see pp66–7). The three main days of Tet are a purely domestic affair, as fam ilies gather for elaborate meals, exchange gifts, and wish each other a happy new year. 3 2 I N T r o D u CIN g V IETNA m Houses are traditionally decorated with kumquat trees during Tet Portrait of the deceased Incense sticks Offerings of food and drink Family chapels or altars are an integral part of almost every household in the country. They display pictures of ances tors along with tablets list ing their names, incense, flowers, and offerings of fruit, rice, and alcohol. Names of the deceased Ancestor Worship The Vietnamese veneration of ancestors finds its greatest expression during Tet, when the spirits of deceased family members are believed to visit the living. The ancestors are invoked with prayers, special foods, and symbolic gifts made of paper, such as false money, clothes, and even watches. Dazzling colorful displays of flowers brighten streets and markets all over Vietnam around Tet. Peach blossom sprigs, symbolizing prosperity and well-being, are popu lar for decorating houses, shops, and temples. Incense sticks play a key role in Tet rites. The scented smoke is said to waft up to the heavens, attrac ting ances tors to the celebrations on earth. Sticks of all sizes are crafted in small villages and left to dry in the sun before being taken into towns for sale. Tombs of ancestors dotting cultivated fields are common in Vietnam. During Tet, relatives clean the tombs of their ancestors and make many offerings to ensure that the spirits of the deceased are at peace. 032-033_EW_VTN.indd 32 17/07/14 3:22 PM A Portr A it of Vietn A m 3 3 Banh chung and banh tet are savory treats most closely associated with Tet. They consist of glutinous rice, mung bean paste, and fatty pork, boiled together in small parcels of banana leaves tied with strips of bamboo. Human chess, played only during Tet, is a unique game where local people take the place of pawns. Participants should be young, attrac tive, and have had no recent instances of bad luck in their lives. Traditional Tet confectionery consists of candied fruits, coconuts, soursop juice, lotus seeds, or ginger and puffed-rice treats. The markets overflow with bins of sweets the week before Tet. Tet Firecrackers Once an essential part of Tet festivities, firecrackers have been banned in Vietnam since 1994 on grounds of public safety, and replica firecrackers are paraded instead. Accor ding to lore, loud noises scare off evil spi rits, but for the time being, even play ing recordings of burst ing crackers is forbidden by law. Bit mat dap nieu or breaking the potsis a tradi tional game in which revelers, donning flashy Tet masks as blindfolds, try to break clay pots with wooden clubs. Special Tet Food Tet is a time of indulgence, and festivities are not complete without an array of deli cacies. Families may save all year for the necessary luxuries, but the resulting feast is consi dered well worth it. Pork, duck, and chicken are on the menu, along with rich soups and mounds of sticky rice. Succulent tropi cal fruits follow meals, especially dragon fruit and watermelon whose pulp is an auspicious red. Tet Festivities Lavish, exuberant, and timehonored Tet activities, frowned upon during the years of communist austerity, have made a major comeback in recent years. Entire communities participate in the traditional music, singing, and dancing, as well as fairs, processions, and games played through the centuries. Young people take advantage of this oppor tunity to meet and flirt. Banh tet ingredients ready for wrapping Vibrant firecracker procession The dragon dance is an age-old tradition originating in China. To welcome the coming year, costumed young men prance vigorously through the streets, accompanied by wild drumming. The dragon symbolizes good luck, and the dance is said to drive away demons. 032-033_EW_VTN.indd 33 17/07/14 3:22 PM 3 4 introducing vietnam most traditional festivals in vietnam have close links with chinese cultural traditions, and follow the lunar calendar, which has only 29.5 days a month. accordingly, the solar dates change annually, and festivals do not fall on fixed dates. Secular holidays, by contrast, are fixed to the Western calendar, and often associated with the country’s recent revolutionary history. over the past two decades, with the liberalization of the vietnamese economy and society, many traditional festivals have also staged a grand comeback, including those related to the imperial dynasties of vietnam. these are marked by ancestor worship ceremonies, colorful parades, feasts, singing, and dancing. in addition to nationwide events, there are many local festivals as well, especially in the red river delta. the ethnic minorities of the north, and the cham and Khmer of the south celebrate their own festivals. Vietnam through the Year Spring (Feb–Apr) A time of renewal and rebirth, spring is the most festive season in Vietnam. Ushered in with the lunar new year, Tet (see pp32–3), it marks a long period of merrymaking all across the country. I st Lunar Month Tet Nguyen Dan (late Jan– Feb). Commonly known as Tet, this is the most important festival in the Vietnamese calendar. Homes and streets are decorated with lights and colorful flowers, stalls selling traditional foods are set up, and families exchange gifts and gather for feasts. Officially a three-day holiday, businesses often shut for a week. Founding of the Vietnamese Communist Party (Feb 3). Commemorates the day on which Ho Chi Minh established the party in 1930. Tay Son Festival (early Feb), Tay Son District, Binh Dinh Province. Marking the 18th-century Tay Son Rebellion, this week-long revelry features elephant parades, a drumming competition, and martial arts performances. Yen Tu Festival (mid Feb–end Apr), Yen Tu Mountain (see p189). Honors the founding of the Truc Lam Buddhist sect. Pilgrims climb to the summit to burn incense and meditate at the pagodas here. Lim Festival (mid-Feb), Lim Village, Bac Ninh Province. Celebrated 14 days after Tet, this festival is best known for its quan ho folk songs. Clad in ethnic garb, both men and women sing improvised lyrics to each other, often in the form of witty repartee. Also features wrestling matches and weaving competitions. Perfume Pagoda Festival (Feb–May), Perfume Pagoda (see pp196–7). The scenic surrounds are said to be the Buddha’s heaven. Thousands of pilgrims visit the pagoda to celebrate this three-monthlong religious festival. 2nd Lunar Month Hai Ba Trung Festival (early Mar), Hai Ba Trung Temple (see p167), Hanoi. Honors the heroic Trung Sisters. A procession takes their statues from the temple to the Red River for a ceremonial bath. Ba Chua Kho Temple Festival (Mar), Ba Chua Kho Temple, Co Me, Bac Ninh Province. Worshippers congregate at the temple to petition Lady Chua Kho for good fortune and borrow money from her in a symbolic ritual. 3rd Lunar Month Thay Pagoda Festival (Apr 5–7), Thay Pagoda (see p177), Ha Tay Province. People gather to wor ship the patron saint of water puppets, Tu Dao Hanh, who is said to have become a Buddhist at Thay Pagoda. Celebrated over two days, several water puppet shows are Street market festooned with brightly colored flowers during Tet staged to mark the occasion. Traditionally dressed women singing at Lim Festival 034-035_EW_VTN.indd 34 17/07/14 3:22 PM vietnam through the year 3 5 Hon Chen Festival (early Apr), Hon Chen Temple (see p152), Hue. Based on an old Cham festi val, this biannual event, held in the 3rd and 7th lunar months, pays tribute to the Goddess Thien Y A Na. This event features a procession of boats on the Perfume River, as well as the staging of traditional tableau. Thanh Minh (early Apr). Dedicated to departed souls, this festival is observed all across Vietnam. Offerings are made to the spirits of the de ceased, and ancestral graves are repaired and cleaned properly. Hung Kings’ Temple Festival (Apr), Hung Kings’ Temples (see p177), Phu Tho Province. This three-day festival honors the Hung Kings and the celebrations include gaily colored parades that take place around the temples. Various cultural events such as classical opera at Den Ha and xoan song performances are held at Den Thuong. Liberation Day (Apr 30). Honors the fall of Saigon to communist forces on April 30, 1975. Platters of food offerings to Lady Chua Kho, Ba Chua Kho Temple Festival Cleaning and decorating a small grave for Thanh Minh The dragon, a symbol of royalty, adorns many palaces and tombs Summer (May–July) With the summer solstice celebrated in early June, this primarily hot and wet season is when the country observes some of its most important national holidays. 4th Lunar Month Labor Day (May 1). Legions of workers parade through cities to mark their solidarity with working people throughout the world. Ho Chi Minh’s Birthday (May 19). Supposedly a secu lar public holiday, this day has become something of a quasi-spiritual event as Ho Chi Minh achieves the status of a deified hero in Vietnam. The Buddha’s Birthday (May 28). Also known as Le Phat Dan. Lanterns are hung outside temples and homes to celebrate the Buddha’s birth, enlightenment, and death. Tra Co Village Festival (May 30–Jun 7), Hai Ninh District, Quang Ninh Province. Held in far northeast Vietnam, this rural festival highlights events such as pig-breeding and cooking contests, traditional games, and dancing. Vietnamese Astrology The Vietnamese zodiac runs on a 12-year cycle, each represented by a specific animal. Instead of centuries, the Viet lunar calendar is divided into 60-year cycles known as hoi. Each of these consists of five 12-year animal cycles. Goat (Mui) 2015, associated with creativity and good taste. Monkey (Than) 2016, versatile and mischievous. Associated with inventors, entertainers, and anything ingenious. Rooster (Dau) 2017, brave and resilient, but can also be selfabsorbed and pretentious. Dog (Tuat) 2018, is considered lucky, loyal, and likeable. Pig (Hoi) 2019, is honest, patient, and also associated with virility. Cat (Meo) 2020, known for being tranquil, realistic, intelligent, and artistic. Rat (Ty) 2021, welcomed as a bringer of good luck. Buffalo (Suu) 2022, associated with riches achieved through hard work. Tiger (Dan) 2023, warm-hearted yet fearsome, and brave in the face of danger. Dragon (Thin) 2024, imperial symbol, associated with the male element yang. Snake (Ty) 2025, enigmatic, wise, and likes to live well. Horse (Ngo) 2026, signifies freedom and confidence. 034-035_EW_VTN.indd 35 17/07/14 3:22 PM 3 6 INTRODUCING VIETNAM 7th Lunar Month Hon Chen Festival (early Aug), Hon Chen Temple (see p152). Trung Nguyen (mid-Aug). The most important festival after Tet, the Taoist Trung Nguyen also has a Buddhist equivalent, Vu Lan, which takes place during the same time. It is believed that lost spirits leave hell on this day to wander the earth. Paper money is burnt to placate these tortured souls. Le Van Duyet Temple Festival (late Aug–early Sep), Le Van Duyet Temple (see p68), Ho Chi Minh City. The festival takes place on the anniver sary of the death of Le Van Duyet. People flock to his mausoleum to pray for a good harvest, safety, and happiness. Traditional opera and dance recitals are staged. 8th Lunar Month National Day (Sep 2). Marks Ho Chi Minh’s 1945 proclamation of the Declaration of Independence. In Hanoi, the day is celebrated with lively 5th Lunar Month Tet Doan Ngo (early Jun). Also known as the “Killing the Inner Insect Festival,” Tet Doan Ngo signals the summer solstice. This Taoist festival falls at the hottest time of the year, when fevers caused by insects are at their peak. To ensure good health and well being, offerings are made to the God of Death. Chem Temple Festival (midJun), Thuy Phuong Village, Tu Liem District, Hanoi. Held in honor of Ly Ong Trong, a great 3rdcentury warrior, this festival features elaborate cere monies such as a dragonboat race, the releasing of pigeons, and a ritualized wash ing of the temple’s statues. 6th Lunar Month Dad Xa Village Festival (Jul 9–10), Tam Thanh District, Phu Tho Province. Hosted to honor General Ly Thuong Kiet’s victory over the Chinese in AD 1075. The festivities include boat racing on the Song Da or Black River. Tam Tong Festival (Jul), Vinh Loc District, Thanh Hoa Province. With no fixed date, Tam Tong takes place at times of drought. Autumn (Aug–Oct) While the south remains hot and wet, the north becomes cooler and pleasant. As the leaves change color, autumn is a good time to follow the festivals in the north. Colorful procession celebrating National Day or Quoc Khanh in Hanoi Locked horns at the Do Son Buffalo Fighting Festival, Haiphong Decorated sweet moon cakes for the Trung Thu Festival parades in Ba Dinh Square. Do Son Buffalo Fighting Festival (early Sep), Do Son, Haiphong Province. A procession of six specially trained buffalos are ceremoniously led into the arena, and paired off to fight each other. A win ner is declared when one of the buffalos runs away. It is a short respite, as at the end of the day, the animals are slaughtered and eaten. Trung Thu or mid-Autumn Festival (mid-Sep). Also known as the Children’s Moon Festival, Trung Thu is a colorful affair, with much revelry and excitement all around. Children are given new toys and festive masks, and are treated to freshly baked moon cakes. Lantern processions, games, and martial arts demon strations are all part of the festivities. Whale Festival (Sep). The worship of whales is an ancient practice likely rooted in the Khmer and Cham cultures. Large processions gather at the temples to make offerings. In Phan Thiet (see p110), the festival also includes 036-037_EW_VTN.indd 36 14/07/16 4:41 pm VIETNAM THROUGH THE YEAR 3 7 Public and other Holidays New Year’s Day Jan 1 Tet Nguyen Dan 27–29 Jan (2017); 15–17 Feb (2018) Founding Day of the Communist Party of Vietnam Feb 3 Hung Kings Day Apr 6 (2017); Apr 25 (2018) Liberation Day Apr 30 Labor Day May 1 Ho Chi Minh’s Birthday May 19 National Day Sep 2 Festive array of incense sticks, candles, and spirit money Winter (Nov–Jan) By now it is cold and rainy in the north, the traditional Viet homeland where most festivals originated, so there are fewer celebrations during this season. 10th Lunar Month Oc Om Boc Festival and Ngo Boat Races (mid-Nov), Soc Trang (see p100). This Khmer festival is dedicated to the moon. Villagers deposit trays of rice, bananas, and coconuts in temples in the hope of abundant crops and plentiful fish. The main event has a series of ngo or canoe races, with competitors from Vietnam and Cambodia. Each boat is carved from a single tree. Nguyen Trung Truc Temple Festival (late Nov), Long Kien Village, Cho Moi District, An Giang Province. This temple is dedicated to the deified national hero, Nguyen Trung Truc (1837–68), renowned for leading the anti-French move ment in southern Vietnam. Boat racing competitions and chess matches are enjoyable components of the revelries, along with the re-enactment of the sinking of the French ship, Esperance, at the hands of Nguyen Trung Truc and his partisans. 11th Lunar Month Dalat Flower Festival (Dec), Dalat (see pp118–20). Held by the shores of Xuan Huong Lake, this festival showcases the many beautiful species of flowers that thrive in the cool uplands around Dalat. Along with the array of flowers, there is music and dancing, as well as displays of colored lanterns. Trung Do Festival (late Dec). This festival honors the Viet patriot Ly Bon who led a successful revolt against the Chinese in AD 542, later proclaiming himself as the Emperor Li Nam De. Traditional ball games known as phet are played during the boisterous celebrations. Christmas (Dec 25). Although predominantly a Buddhist country, Vietnam has a large Christian community as well. As such, Christmas is celebrated with enthusiasm, especially in the big cities where streets and stores are decorated with lights, fake snow, shiny baubles, and ornaments. 12th Lunar Month New Year’s Day (Jan 1). No special events are associated with this recent addition from the Western calendar, but this day is officially recognized as a public holiday, and its status is gaining recognition. Still, it is nowhere close to attaining Tet’s status. Cham dancers and musicians celebrating the Kate Festival the Chinese community, with elaborate parades throughout the city. Kate Festival (Sep–Oct), Po Klong Garai Towers, Phan Rang–Thap Cham (see p111). This lengthy festival follows the Cham calendar, and is the most imp ortant celebration for the Cham minority. Droves of devotees in colorful processions, along with traditional musicians, make their way up to the towers to pay homage to the Cham deities, rulers, and revered national heroes. 9th Lunar Month Keo Pagoda Festival (mid-Oct), Vu Nhat Village, Thai Binh Province. The anniversary of the death of Buddhist monk Duong Khong Lo is remembered over three days. Events include a lavish procession and religious rituals, as well as cooking and duck-catching competitions, and a trumpet and drum contest. Confucius’ Birthday (late Oct/ early Nov). Confucianism, as a system of state adminis tration, may have disappeared under the communist regime, but Confucius is still vener ated. The date has been declared Teacher’s Day, and the sage is offered incense and prayers in many temples. 036-037_EW_VTN.indd 37 14/07/16 4:41 pm Eyewitness Travel Flashmap template (Source v1.1) Date 19th July 2012 Size 125mm x 217mm LAYERS PRINTED: “UK” LAYER The Climate of Vietnam Though Vietnam has a tropical climate, there is considerable diversity from north to south and from coast to highlands. In general, the seasonal monsoons bring heavy rains between May and October, while it remains relatively dry from November to February. The hot season bet ween February and April can be uncomfort able, with temperatures reaching up to 35°C (95°F), and humidity rising to a sticky 80 to 100 per cent. Regionally, the south is consistently warm and humid, with frequent downpours during the rainy season. The central coast suffers typhoons between July and Novem ber, but winters are often rainy and cool. The north expe riences cold and wet winters bet ween November and March, with occasional snowfall on Mount Fansipan. Summers in the north are warm and humid. Cai Rang Floating Market in the early morning, Can Tho Key Hot wet summer, cold dry winter with occasional frost Mild wet summer, cold rainy winter, with snow on higher belts Cool rainy summer, chilly dry winter with some rain Warm wet summer, cool winter with occasional rain Hot dry summer, cool rainy winter Moderate dry climate all year, with a brief winter monsoon Warm summer with heavy rainfall, cool dry winter Hot wet summer, warm dry winter with some rain Hot summer with heavy rainfall, warm wet winter 5 hrs 70 mm 190 mm 230 mm 10 mm 4 hrs 7 hrs 8 hrs 35/95 24/75 32/90 23/73 30/86 24/75 31/88 21/70 °C/F Chau doC month Apr Jul Oct Jan 5.8 hrs 279 mm 209 mm 38 mm 12 mm 3.8 hrs 5.0 hrs 4.3 hrs 21/70 13/55 23/73 18/64 19/66 13/55 19/66 5/41 °C/F son la month Apr Jul Oct Jan 30/86 5.2 hrs 52 mm 38 mm 81 mm 20 mm 4 hrs 4.5 hrs 4.7 hrs 23/73 33/91 25/77 28/82 20/68 21/70 13/55 °C/F lao Cai month Apr Jul Oct Jan 3 8 I NTROduCIN g V I e TNAM 0 kilometers 0 miles 200 200 • Halong City Ho Chi Minh City Danang Hoi An Dong Ha Dong Hoi Ha Tien Vinh Minh Hai Nam Dinh My Tho Vung Tau Cao Lanh Cam Pha Hue Dalat Nha Trang Quy Nhon Chau Doc Phan Thiet Ca Mau Cao Bang Ha Giang Gia Nghia Tuong Duong Pleiku Buon Ma Thuat Quang Ngai Tuy Hoa Hanoi Lao Cai Sapa Son La Dien Bien Phu Yen Bai Lang Son Kontum Tay Ninh Thanh Hoa Can Tho 038-039_EW_VTN.indd 38 17/07/14 3:22 PM Average monthly maximum temperature Average monthly minimum temperature Average daily hours of sunshine Average monthly rainfall 6 hrs 51 mm 295 mm 260 mm 14 mm 4 hrs 6 hrs 8 hrs 34/93 25/77 32/90 24/75 31/88 25/77 32/90 22/72 °C/F Ho CHi MinH City month Apr Jul Oct Jan 8.3 hrs 8 mm 58 mm 141 mm 19 mm 8.7 hrs 6.1 hrs 5.9 hrs 35/95 25/77 30/86 24/75 31/88 31/88 23/73 16/61 °C/F nHa trang month Apr Jul Oct Jan 2.7 hrs 72 mm 516 mm 1 mm 27 mm 2.6 hrs 5.4 hrs 1.8 hrs 26/79 20/68 31/88 23/73 26/79 21/70 18/64 13/55 °C/F Halong City month Apr Jul Oct Jan 6.1 hrs 21 mm 171 mm 578 mm 99 mm 6.2 hrs 3.6 hrs 2.7 hrs 31/88 22/72 34/93 24/75 29/84 22/72 27/81 17/63 °C/F Hue month Apr Jul Oct Jan 2.4 hrs 81 mm 323 mm 99 mm 20 mm 3.9 hrs 4.7 hrs 1.2 hrs 27/81 21/70 32/90 26/79 28/82 23/73 19/66 13/55 °C/F Hanoi month Apr Jul Oct Jan CHau doC 3 8 Introduc I ng v I etnam v I etnam through t he year 3 9 °C/F Pleiku month Apr Jul Oct Jan 8.2 hrs 52 mm 290 mm 6 mm 3 mm 5.2 hrs 7.1 hrs 8.2 hrs 32/90 10/50 28/82 28/82 27/81 20/68 18/64 14/57 • Halong City Ho Chi Minh City Danang Hoi An Dong Ha Dong Hoi Ha Tien Vinh Minh Hai Nam Dinh My Tho Vung Tau Cao Lanh Cam Pha Hue Dalat Nha Trang Quy Nhon Chau Doc Phan Thiet Ca Mau Cao Bang Ha Giang Gia Nghia Tuong Duong Pleiku Buon Ma Thuat Quang Ngai Tuy Hoa Hanoi Lao Cai Sapa Son La Dien Bien Phu Yen Bai Lang Son Kontum Tay Ninh Thanh Hoa Can Tho 038-039_EW_VTN.indd 39 17/07/14 3:22 PM 040-041_EW_VTN.indd 40 17/07/14 3:22 PM The hisTory of VieTnam The early history of Vietnam is obscured in the mists of time and legend, but tracing its journey through the centuries of recorded history tells the story of a nation constantly besieged by foreign invasions and civil wars. This historical narrative – from the reassertion of independence in AD 979, after 1,000 years of Chinese occupation, to Reunification in 1975 – also reveals the unflinching Viet determination for autonomy and freedom. It is believed that more than 5,000 years ago, the Viet people learned to cultivate rice, and settled in the fertile lands around present-day Guangxi and Guangdong in China. Their neighbors to the north, the Han Chinese, forced them to flee southwards, where the Viet leader proclaimed himself Viem De, the “Red Emperor of the South,” and established a kingdom called Xich Qui in the Red River Delta. This period represents the earliest mythical Viet state as well as the first recorded separation from China. Legend has it that King De Minh of Xich Qui married a mythical mountain fairy, and their son, Kinh Duong, married the daughter of the Dragon Lord of the Sea. This union gave birth to Lac Long Quan, considered to be the first Vietnamese king. To maintain peace with the Chinese, he married Princess Au Co, a beautiful Chinese immortal, who bore him 100 sons. Lac Long Quan then sent his wife with 50 of their sons to the mountains and remained by the sea with the other 50. Thus, the Viet race came into being, with half of them living in the highlands, and the other half in the Red River Delta. Lac Long Quan raised his eldest son to be king of the Kinh or Viets, and gave him the regal name Hung Vuong. He became the first of a line of legendary Hung Kings, whose dynasty, Van Lang, was based at Phu Tho on the left bank of the Red River, about 50 miles (80 km) northwest of present-day Hanoi. It is widely believed that the ancient bronze drums, excavated in Northern Vietnam and southern China, and attributed to the Dong Son civilization, were associated with this important dynasty. The Era of Hung Kings According to folklore, the 18 Hung kings’ combined rule lasted for 150 years. By the 3rd century BC, Van Lang was in decline. In 258 BC, Thuc Phan, ruler of Au Viet, a rival kingdom to the north, overthrew the Hung and founded a new state called Au Lac, with its capital at Co Loa near Hanoi. Scholars regard this as the first Viet state, which flourished under Thuc Phan, who ruled as An Duong Vuong. 9000–6500 BC Neolithic period 1000 BC Van Lang prospers under Hung kings; development of wet rice cultivation and bronze casting 9000 BC 5000 BC 1000 BC 500 Bronze warrior from Dong Son civilization 6500 BC Early agriculture 2879 BC Semi-mythical Kingdom of Van Lang founded 2361 BC Supposed first Chinese contact with Van Lang 551–479 BC Life of Confucius in China 258 BC Kingdom of Auc Lac established 258–208 BC Capital of Au Lac established at Co Loa 400–100 BC Dong Son civilization Stone Age relic The French use anchored balloons for reconnaissance purposes at the capture of Hong Hoa in Indochina, 1884 InTR o D u C I ng V I e T n A m 4 1 040-041_EW_VTN.indd 41 17/07/14 3:22 PM Eyewitness Travel History Portrait template (Source v1.2) Date 20th August 2012 Size 125mm x 217mm LAYERS PRINTED: “UK” LAYER 4 2 introducing vietnam The Chinese Connection Through the ages, Vietnam’s development has been marked by its proximity to China. In 207 BC, a renegade Chinese general, Trieu Da, conquered Au Lac and unified it with his own territories in southern China. Nam Viet, the kingdom he founded, had its capital at Fanyu in what is today Guangdong province in China. Trieu Da’s rule marked the beginning of almost 1,000 years of Chinese occupation that made Vietnam a unique outpost of Chinese civilization in Southeast Asia. Nam Viet was probably as much Viet as it was Chinese. Although the ruling Western Han Dynasty (206 BC–AD 9) regarded the area south of the Yangtze River as on the fringes of Han civilization, Chinese ways and cul tural values were increasingly imposed on Nam Viet. The kingdom became a tributary state of the Western Han in 111 BC when Trieu Da’s successors acknowledged the suzer ainty of Emperor Wudi (r.141–87 BC). With the establishment of Han authority, the Viet territories became the Chinese province of Giao Chi. During the first centuries of Chinese rule, many attempts were made to Sini cize the Viets, but with limited success. While the Viets embraced many facets of Chinese culture, from education to Confucianism, Taoism, and Buddhism, they resolutely refused to become a part of China, and resistance and rebellions conti nued throughout the long years of Chinese rule. In AD 40, two Viet noblewomen, the Trung Sisters (see p167), led the first and most famous bid for freedom. They proclaimed them selves queens of an independent kingdom, with their capital at Me Linh. However, just three years later, the Han re-established Chinese control over the region. Despite repeated revolts, Chinese rule remained secure for the next nine centuries. By AD 679, Vietnam had become an appendage of the Tang Dynasty (AD 618–
South, with its capital at Tong Binh on the banks of the Red River near present-day Hanoi. The Creation of Dai Viet The millennium of foreign occupation ended in AD 938 when one of Vietnam’s most celebrated national heroes, Ngo Quyen, ingeniously destroyed a Chinese fleet attempting to sail up the Bach Dang River near Haiphong by planting a barrier of iron-tipped stakes in the bed of the river. Following this triumph, he proclaimed himself King Ngo Vuong of Dai Viet, and transferred his capital from Dai La, the Tong Binh fortress, back to Co Loa, capital of the first free Viet Kingdom, Au Lac. AD 1 Han overlords impose Chinese culture in Vietnam AD 1 Kingdom of Funan is established 43 Chinese reconquest 40 Trung Sisters Uprising 100s Cham Kingdom established Painting depicting the Trung Sisters battle against the Chinese 300s Cham capital at Singhapura Funan jewelry Cham sculpture Statue of a Han warrior 208 BC Capital moved to Fanyu in Guangdong 111 Nam Viet conquered by Han Emperor Wudi 200 BC 100 BC 0 100 AD 200 300 042-043_EW_VTN.indd 42 17/07/14 3:22 PM THE HISTORY OF VIETNAM 4 3 Funan and Champa Even as the Chinese-influenced Viet culture evolved in the heart of the Red River Delta, the south saw the emergence of two Indic kingdoms – Funan and Champa. A precursor to the great Khmer Empire, Funan is believed to have been established in the Mekong Delta in the 1st century AD. At the height of its power, its influence extended across much of Cambodia and along the east coast of Thailand. It was probably founded by a merchant from India who, legend says, wed the daughter of a naga (serpent) deity and established the dynasty. Between the 2nd and 6th centuries, Funan’s rulers increa sed their wealth largely through commerce. There is evi dence that they traded with China, India, and even the Roman Empire. But by the end of the 6th century, Funan was supplan ted by a new Khmer power, the king dom of Chen La. Located farther inland, it was less subject to Java nese attacks and disastrous floods. Today, little of Funan remains beyond the ruins of the port-city of Oc Eo near Rach Gia, and some artifacts in muse ums at Hanoi, Ho Chi Minh City, and Long Xuyen. The earliest records of the Kingdom of Champa date from AD 192, when settlements of the Cham, believed to have originated in Java, began to appear along the central coast of Vietnam. At the peak of their power, they controlled the lands stretching from Vinh to the Mekong Delta, and excelled at maritime trade, their main exports being slaves and sandalwood. By about AD 800, Champa found itself increasingly threatened by the newly powerful Khmer kingdom of Angkor and the Viet expansion toward the south. The situation worsened over the centuries, and in 1471, the Cham suffered a terrible defeat at the hands of the Viet. Champa was reduced to a small piece of territory from Nha Trang south to Phan Thiet, which survived until 1720, when the king and many of his subjects fled to Cambodia rather than submit to the Vietnamese. 500s Kingdom of Funan supplanted by the Khmers 600s Tong Binh fortified by major Chinese citadel named Dai La 700s Red River dyke system strengthened and extended by Chinese 938 Independence under King Ngo Vuong of Dai Viet 544 Ly Bon Uprising 618–907 Tang Dynasty administration; capital moved to Tong Binh; Vietnam called An Nam or Pacified South by Chinese. 700s Cham capital at Indrapuram Statue from the Oc Eo era 907 Fall of Tang Dynasty 945 King Ngo Vuong dies 979 Viet advance to south begins Architectural ruins at My Son (see pp134–6), the Cham religious capital between the 4th and 13th centuries Empress Wu Zetian, Tang Dynasty 300 400 500 600 700 800 900 042-043_EW_VTN.indd 43 25/08/2015 12:47 Eyewitness Travel History Portrait template (Source v1.2) Date 20th August 2012 Size 125mm x 217mm LAYERS PRINTED: “UK” LAYER 4 4 introducing vietnam The Consolidation of Dai Viet In AD 945, Ngo Vuong died, and Viet independence was threatened once again as control was divided between competing fiefdoms. Fortunately, in 968, Dinh Bo Linh, the most powerful lord, reunified the country, calling it Dai Co Viet. He took the name Tien Hoang De and founded the short-lived Dinh Dynasty (968–980). He also re-established a tributary relationship with China to stave off further invasions. Then, in 979, the throne was seized by Le Dai Hanh, who founded the Early Le Dynasty (980–1009) and continued the conquest of Champa. The Ly Dynasty Held to be the first completely independent Vietnamese dynasty, the Ly Dynasty (1009–1225) was established by the learned and brave Ly Thai To. In 1010, he moved the capital back to Dai La in Tong Binh, giving it the auspicious name, Thang Long (see p164) or Ascending Dragon. Thang Long would remain Vietnam’s capital for the next 800 years. Buddhism became the state religion, while Confucianism was adopted for state adminis tration during Ly Thai To’s rule. Under this dynasty, Vietnam began to evolve as a powerful autonomous state, though it remained very much in China’s cultural orbit. It followed a system of strong central ized govern ment, with a national tax system, a codified legal structure, and a professional army. At the head stood the king who was absolute monarch and mediator between Heaven and Earth. The Tran Dynasty The Tran Dynasty (1225–1400) introduced land reforms and defended Vietnam from Mongol attacks. In 1288, the national hero Tran Hung Dao defeated a major Mongol invasion at the second Battle of the Bach Dang River by using Ngo Quyen’s tactics of planting metal stakes in the bed of the river. At the same time, Vietnam continued its southward advance, absorbing Cham territory as far as Hue. The Later Le Dynasty In 1407, the Ming invaded Vietnam but were ousted in 1428 by the nationalist leader Le Loi during the turbulent Lam Son Uprising. The Chinese were forced to recognize Dai Viet’s auto nomy after this victory, and Le Loi founded the Later Le Dynasty (1428–1788). His successor, Le Than Ton, inflicted a crushing defeat on Champa in 1471, pushing the frontier south of Qui Nhon. By this time Vietnam had become a major power on the Southeast Asian mainland. 1010 Ly Thai To establishes capital at Thang Long 1288 Tran Hung Dao defeats Mongols in the Battle of Bach Dang 1070 Temple of Literature established 1009–1225 Ly Dynasty 1000 1100 1200 1300 1400 Statue of the Amitabha Buddha, Ly Dynasty Metal-tipped stakes used to impale ships in the Battle of Bach Dang Temple of Literature, Hanoi, a center of learning Nguyen Trai, advisor to Tran Hung Dao 1225–1400 Tran Dynasty 1407–28 Ming occupation Mongol ruler, Kublai Khan 044-045_EW_VTN.indd 44 17/07/14 3:22 PM THE HISTORY OF VIETNAM 4 5 A Nation Divided As the Le Dynasty extended its domain, it incurred the wrath of local fiefdoms. In 1527, Mac Dang Dung, an opportunist in the Le court, seized the throne. However, from 1539 onward, real power was divided between two warlord families, the Trinh and the Nguyen. For more than two centuries, the nation would remain divided, with the Nguyen developing their capital at Hue to rival the Trinh capital at Thang Long. Under the Nguyen, the Viet conquest of lower Cambodia and the Mekong Delta began with the absorption of the Khmer settlement of Prey Nokor, later renamed Saigon. Early European Influences In 1545, the Portuguese established the first European factories in Vietnam. At first, they helped the Nguyen lords develop a foundry and weapons, but later, also aided the Trinh so they could benefit from the spice trade. The Dutch, followed by the French, replaced the Portuguese as leading traders in the 17th century. Christian missionaries also made inroads, the most important figure being Alexandre de Rhodes (1591–1660), a French Jesuit who converted thousands of locals to Christianity, leading to his expulsion. However, this led to the beginning of a French interest in the area for its wealth. Tay Son Rebellion In response to the years of civil war and harsh government under the Trinh and Nguyen lords, the Tay Son Rebellion broke out in 1771. Supported by mer chants and peasants, it was led by three brothers who overthrew the Nguyen in 1783. The last lord, Nguyen Anh, fled abroad and sought French assis tance. In 1786, the Tay Son overthrew the Trinh, provoking a Chinese invasion. The greatest of the Tay Son brothers crushed the Chinese and proclaimed him self Emperor Quang Trung. He died in 1792, leaving behind a much weakened Tay Son. Triumph of the Nguyen Dynasty In 1788, Nguyen Anh returned home and seized control of Saigon with the help of French missionary, Pigneau de Behaine (1741–99). Following Quang Trung’s death, Nguyen Anh easily defeated the Tay Son in the north. In 1802, he declared Hue the new national capital and himself the first ruler of the Nguyen Dynasty. 1471 Le victory over Champa forces the Cham south 1300 1400 1500 1600 1700 1800 1428–1788 Later Le Dynasty 1516 Portuguese seafarers arrive 1539–1787 Trinh Nguyen Wars 1627 French missionary Alexandre de Rhodes arrives 1680–1757 Nguyen conquest of the Mekong Delta 1771–92 Tay Son Rebellion 1802–1902 Nguyen Dynasty, Hue 1832 Nguyen Dynasty finally ends all Cham autonomy Trinh Dynasty terracotta sculpture Swords, Tay Son Rebellion Ngo Mon Gate, Hue Citadel, was built by Nguyen Emperor Gia Long A shrine to Quang Trung, leader of the Tay Son Rebellion 1407–28 Ming occupation 044-045_EW_VTN.indd 45 25/08/2015 12:47 Establishment of French Control Nguyen Anh gave himself the title of Gia Long, deriving it from Gia Dinh and Thang Long, the old names of Ho Chi Minh City and Hanoi, and thus representing the unification of Vietnam. A strong ruler, he died in 1820. Minh Mang (r.1820–41), the son of Gia Long, inherited the throne as well as a legacy of French involvement in Vietnamese affairs. Unlike his father, he felt no gratitude to the French. On the contrary, he was hostile to them and issued decrees prohibiting the spread of Catholicism. His son, Thieu Tri (r.1841–7) pursued similar policies, as did Tu Duc (r.1847–
“fools seduced by priests.” These anti-French measures instigated the imperialist faction in France to implement a “civilizing mission,” which led to the loss of national independence for almost 100 years. In 1858–9, ostensibly responding to the execution of missionaries, France briefly occupied Danang. Two years later, it seized Saigon and, in 1865, forced Tu Duc to form Cochinchina, a French colony. By 1883, France controlled the whole country, making Annam (the north) and Tonkin (the center) into protectorates. Tu Duc died the same year and his successors were reduced to being puppets of the French. Meanwhile, France occupied Cambodia and Laos, and in 1887, created the Indochinese Union, with its capital at Hanoi. The Colonial Period Paul Doumer, the French Governor of Indochina (1897–1902), invoked the An Nam or Pacified South of the 7th century, saying “when France arrived in Indochina, the Annamites were ripe for servitude.” He would eventually be proved wrong, but for many decades, Vietnam suffered under the French imposition of heavy taxation, state monopolies on salt, alcohol, and opium, and enforced labor known as corvée. The French also profited from coffee and rubber plantations as well as Vietnam’s extensive mineral resources. All this changed in 1940, when Nazi Germany occupied France and established the puppet Vichy regime. In Indochina, the Vichy authorities collaborated with Germany’s Axis partner, Japan, and Vietnam fell under a new, brutal colonial yoke. The Rise of Socialist Resistance From the early 20th century, several nationalist movements began to emerge across Vietnam. The 1911 Revolution in China inspired the Viets, and the Viet Nam National Party (VNQDD) was formed in emulation of the French troops arriving in the Bay of Haiphong, 1884 Emperor Minh Mang 1858–59 France seizes Danang 1883 France establishes protectorate over Annam and Tonkin 1865 Cochinchina declared a French colony 1887 France creates Indochinese Union of Vietnam, Laos, and Cambodia 1835 1850 1865 1880 1890 Birth of Ho Chi Minh near Kim Lien Paul Doumer, Governor of French Indochina 1832 Last principalities of Champa extinguished 1820–41 Emperor Minh Mang issues anti-French edicts 1820 1895 4 6 INTRODUCING VIETNAM 046-047_EW_VTN.indd 46 14/07/16 4:41 pm Chinese nationalist Kuomintang. In 1930, the French sent Nguyen Thai Hoc, the VNQDD chairman, to the guillotine along with 12 of his colleagues. In 1941, Ho Chi Minh (see p173), the architect of Vietnam’s independence, returned to Vietnam after many years. He formed the Vietnamese Independence League or Viet Minh, and began organiz ing a nationalist movement against the French and Japanese. In March 1945, faced with imminent defeat in the Pacific War, Japan took over direct administration from the Vichy regime. However, Ho Chi Minh and his Viet Minh forces had already liberated parts of the far north and were fast advancing on Hanoi. The Japanese surrendered on August 15, 1945, and on September 2, Ho Chi Minh declared national independence at Hanoi’s Ba Dinh Square. The First Indochina War Following France’s liberation from Germany, General Charles De Gaulle and senior military officials were determined to restore their hold on Indochina, and reinstated French troops in Vietnam. This led to an uprising in Hanoi in 1946 and the outbreak of the First Indochina War. From their stronghold in Viet Bac, the Viet Minh forces, directed by General Vo Nguyen Giap, fought back, taking over broad swathes of the country. The French retained control of Hanoi, Saigon, and most large towns, but could not win. As Ho Chi Minh warned the French in 1946, “you can kill ten of my men for every one I kill of yours. But even at those odds, you will lose and I will win.” In 1954, the Viet Minh inflicted their final defeat on the French at the Battle of Dien Bien Phu (see p199). However, the United States, frantic to curb communism, had already been funding as much as 80 percent of the French war effort, and the stage was set for the Vietnam War. Prelude to the Vietnam War The Geneva Conference was held in 1954, where France, Britain, the US, and the USSR decided to partition Vietnam at the 17th parallel, pending general elections in 1956. These elections were never held, and the partition became permanent. The North became the Communist Democratic Republic of Vietnam, with its capital at Hanoi under Ho Chi Minh, and the South became the anti-communist Republic of Vietnam, with its capital at Saigon under the US-allied and fervently Catholic Ngo Dinh Diem. 1911 Ho Chi Minh travels to Paris. Joins French Communist Party in 1920 1924 Ho Chi Minh becomes an agent of Comintern 1880 1930 Ho Chi Minh forms Indochinese Communist Party in Hong Kong 1940 France occupied by Nazi Germany; Vichy regime 1954 France suffers crushing defeat at Dien Bien Phu 1946 First Indochina War begins as French seek to reimpose their rule Viet Minh soldiers attack French military base, Dien Bien Phu Ho Chi Minh (left) with military planners at Dien Bien Phu, 1953 1945 March 9, Japanese coup against the French; August 15, Japan capitulates 1945 Nguyen Emperor Bao Dai abdicates; Ho Chi Minh declares independence 1895 1910 1925 1940 1955 Bao Dai (right) with General Navarre French Indochinese postcard THE HISTORY OF VIETNAM 4 7 046-047_EW_VTN.indd 47 14/07/16 4:41 pm The Vietnam War From 1954, South Vietnam, under the leadership of President Diem, was propped up politically and financially by the US. Under Diem, communists and Buddhists were persecuted, whereas the North was hostile to Catholics, many of whom fled to the South. The entire nation was reeling with unrest and strife, and the time was ripe for an intervention by the US. In the meantime, the North allied with China and the USSR, and in 1960, the National Liberation Front (NLF) or Vietcong was formed with the mission of unifying the country. In 1960, US military advisors arrived in the South, thus initiating the 15-year war known to the Vietnamese as the “American War” and to the Americans as the “Vietnam War.” It is also sometimes referred to as the Second Indochina War. Gulf of Tonkin Incident (1964) The US accused NLF torpedo boats of launching unprovoked attacks on the USS Maddox. Lyndon Johnson used this incident as his reason for bombing the North and for sending American troops to Vietnam. US Soldiers in Paddy Fields, Mekong Delta By 1967, there were half a million American soldiers in Vietnam, many of them one-year conscripts. Most were inexpe rienced and unmotivated, and had to fight in unfamiliar and difficult terrain, wading through rice paddies and swamps in search of their elusive opponents. More professional, specialist American forces mounted LRRPS or Long Range Reconnaissance Patrols, staying in deep jungle or marshland on dangerous five-day missions. Ho Chi Minh Trail With its hidden narrow paths and frail bridges, the Ho Chi Minh Trail (see p155) was used by communist troops to travel from North Vietnam to Saigon. 1960 Communists form the National Liberation Front in South Vietnam 1955 1960 South Vietnam’s President Ngo Dinh Diem, 1958 1965 Buddhist monk self immolates in protest against Diem’s government, 1963 1964 North Vietnamese torpedo boats allegedly attack US destroyers in Gulf of Tonkin Guerrilla Warfare Both the NLF and the allied North Vietnamese Army (NVA) were adept at preparing simple but deadly booby traps. 1963 Diem is assassinated, allegedly by South Vietnam generals 1965 First US combat troops arrive; USAF bombing of North Vietnam begins 1954 Treaty signed at Geneva Convention, sanctioning Vietnam’s partition Death from the Air The US Air Force (USAF) and its South Vietnamese allies used a wide range of chemical warfare, including white phosphorus, on enemy positions. Here, a US aircraft is bombing Danang, 1966. 4 8 INTRODUCING VIETNAM 048-049_EW_VTN.indd 48 14/07/16 4:41 pm Paris Peace Accords (1973) Henry Kissinger and Le Duc Tho signed the treaty on January 23. US forces withdrew from Vietnam and the North released almost 500 US POWs. April 29, 1975 The last remaining American personnel in Saigon were evacuated by helicopters to US Naval vessels in the South China Sea, even as the city was falling to victorious communist forces. The Tet Offensive (1968) The longest and bloodiest battle was the January Tet Offensive, when communist forces seized the old imperial capital of Hue and held it against massive counterattacks for 25 days. Both sides suffered heavy losses. Napalm Bombings A vicious but effective compound of jellied petroleum, napalm killed many thousands of people. When this infamous picture of young victims was beamed across the world in June 1972, US public opinion turned against the war. Anti-War Protests In the late 1960s and 70s, the anti-war movement grew in strength everywhere, including the US. These demonstrators are outside the American Embassy in London’s Grosvenor Square. Hamburger Hill (1969) On May 10, the US 101st Airborne battalion attacked forces holding Ap Bia Mountain, near Laos. In ten days, 46 US soldiers were dead and 400 wounded, earning the peak the notorious epithet, “Hamburger Hill.” 1970 1975 1968 Tet Offensive is launched in Jan–Feb; in March, the My Lai Mas sacre (see p123) shocks the country 1973 Ceasefire agreement is signed; US troops leave Vietnam 1975 South surrenders to North; provisional government installed My Lai Massacre memorial 1971, Anti-war protestor atop a statue near Capitol Hill waves a Vietcong flag 1969 Ho Chi Minh dies; Nixon proposes peace talks 1971 New York Times prints extracts from Pentagon Papers exposing US involvement in Vietnam War 1972 Americans bomb Haiphong Harbor Anti-war badges worn during the 1970s THE HISTORY OF VIETNAM 4 9 048-049_EW_VTN.indd 49 14/07/16 4:41 pm 5 0 INTRODUCING VIETNAM Reunification and Isolation Following the overwhelming victory of the North in 1975, Le Duan, the general secretary of the Communist Party after Ho Chi Minh’s death, came into power. It was his doctrinaire government’s policies that shaped the next decade. In July 1976, Vietnam was officially reunified and the Socialist Republic of Vietnam proclaimed. Six months later, at the Fourth Party Congress, a decision was taken to press ahead with forced collectivization of industry, commerce, and agriculture in the south. Officials of the former southern regime were severely persecuted, many being sent for long periods of re-education in undeveloped border areas, a policy which denied Vietnam the services of thousands of skilled and educated citizens. To compound matters, Saigon was renamed Ho Chi Minh City – a designation never fully accepted in the South. In Cholon (see pp72–3) and across the south, persecution of the merchant class rapidly stopped businesses, a move that angered China as most commerce was controlled by the ethnic Chinese or Hoa. By 1977, great numbers of refugees, known as “boat people,” had started to flee abroad, further depleting human resources. Also, a harsh trade embargo imposed by the US after 1975 added to Vietnam’s economic disintegration. Matters deteriorated on the regional front as well. In 1976, Pol Pot’s Democratic Kampuchea (Khmer Rouge of Cambodia), supported by China, launched cross-border attacks on Vietnam. Vietnam responded by signing a security pact with the Soviet Union in 1978, and overthrowing Pol Pot later in the same year. Early in 1979, China retaliated by invading the north and destroying several provincial capitals before withdrawing unilaterally. Hanoi, execrated by China and most of the West, was forced into a closer alliance with the USSR. By the early 1980s, impoverished and isolated, Vietnam was well on the way to starvation and economic collapse. Renovation The death of Le Duan in 1986 brought about change. Nguyen Van Linh, a southerner, became party leader, and a policy of doi moi, 1975 Reunification of North and South under a communist government 1976 Socialist Republic of Vietnam established 1986 Death of Le Duan; introduction of doi moi 1978 Vietnam invades Cambodia and overthrows Khmer Rouge 1979 China invades Northern Vietnam Refugees, or boat people, sailing to Manila, 1978 1989 Vietnamese troops withdraw from Cambodia 1994 US embargo lifted 1995 Vietnam joins ASEAN; diplomatic relations with USA instated 2000 President Clinton visits; Vietnam’s stock exchange opens Vietnamese troops leaving Cambodia in 1989 1976 1980 1984 1988 1992 1996 2000 Le Duan Pol Pot – the Cambodian dictator 050-051_EW_VTN.indd 50 14/07/16 4:41 pm THE HISTORY OF VIETNAM 5 1 or economic reforms, was adopted at the Sixth Party Congress, opening the way to gradual economic and social reform under the Communist Party. The liberalization policy was accelerated by the collapse of the USSR and the end of the Cold War in 1991. Vietnam lost its ally and financial patron, and was forced to mend fences with China, establish closer links with its Southeast Asian neighbors, and open increasingly to the West. As a result, in 1994, the US lifted its trade embargo, and in 1995, restored full diplomatic relations with Hanoi. In the same year, Vietnam became a full member of the Association of Southeast Asian Nations (ASEAN). In 1997, the policy of continuing economic reform was confirmed with the election of the forward-looking Tran Duc Luong as president and Phan Van Khai as prime minister. Rebirth Since the turn of the 20th century Vietnam has seen a remarkable turnaround. In 2000, US President Bill Clinton’s visit was indicative of fast improving relations between the two former enemies. In 2001, this was followed by the normalization of trade relations between Washington and Hanoi, and the election of Nong Duc Manh as Secretary General of the Communist Party – the most powerful position in Vietnam followed by the prime minister and president. Widely regarded as a modernizer, Nong Duc Manh promised on his election that he would focus on economic development and fight corruption and unnecessary red tape. In 2006, Nguyen Tan Dung, the country’s youngest prime minister, was confirmed by the National Assembly. The first leader of post-war Vietnam with no experience of the independence struggle, he vowed to strive for development and to “pull the nation out of backwardness.” For the next two years Vietnam continued to prosper economically. The country has since been one of the fastest-growing economies in Asia. In 2010 there was an influx of foreign brands and construction of many modern skyscrapers in Ho Chi Minh City. The unwillingness to continue reforms, however, led to a contraction of the economy and social tensions. In 2011, a number of riots and protests occurred in response to police brutality and largescale government land grabs, leading to embarrassment and censure of top leaders. Despite this, most Vietnamese enjoy more freedom than their forefathers did at any time in their country’s history. 2001 Nong Duc Manh becomes Secretary General of the Communist party 2003 First US warship to visit HCMC 2005 Prime Minister Phan Van Khai visits the US 2012 Vietnam takes American citizen Nguyen Quoc Quan as political prisoner for pro-democracy activities 2012 Tensions between Vietnam and China escalate over South China Sea. Bui Thi Minh sent to re-education camp 2014 Furious anti-China protests in Vietnam over China’s expansionist stance 2000 President Clinton visits; Vietnam’s stock exchange opens Tran Duc Luong with US president Bill Clinton, 2000 View across Ho Chi Minh City 2006 Nguyen Tan Dung and Nguyen Minh Triet elected prime minister and president 2008 Massive inflation causes economic uncertainty 1996 2000 2004 2008 2012 2016 2020 2016 Nguyen Xuan Phuc and Tran Dai Quang elected prime minister and president 050-051_EW_VTN.indd 51 14/07/16 4:41 pm 052-053_EW_VTN.indd 52 18/07/14 2:53 PM Vietnam at a Glance 54–55 Ho Chi Minh City 56–87 Mekong Delta and Southern Vietnam 88–105 South Central Vietnam 106–123 Central Vietnam 124–155 Hanoi 156–181 Northern Vietnam 182–205 vietnam area by area 052-053_EW_VTN.indd 53 18/07/14 2:53 PM Vietnam at a Glance A long and narrow country with amazingly diverse terrains, Vietnam encompasses the magnificent and remote valleys of the northwest, the high peaks and plateaus of its mountainous spine, and the pristine beaches and warm tropical waters of the southern coasts. The mighty Red River in the north and Mekong River in the south give rise to two immensely fertile deltas, lush forests, meandering canals, and vast paddy fields. Apart from its scenic wealth, Vietnam is a treasure trove of art and culture, evident in the museums and exquisite French architecture of Hanoi, the royal palaces of ancient Hue, and the elegant restaurants and vibrant nightlife of Ho Chi Minh City. This guide divides Vietnam into six regions; each area is color-coded as shown here. 5 4 VIETNAM AREA BY AREA Sapa (see pp200–201), located in a remote part of Northern Vietnam, is known for its breathtaking beauty. Its landscape is marked by rice fields that rise in steep terraces along the flanks of the Hoang Lien Mountains, and has been farmed for centuries by the region’s ethnic minorities. Tra Vinh (see p93) is a fertile delta town, featuring several narrow canals winding through dense foliage, coconut palm trees, and fruit orchards. Known for its religious diversity, Tra Vinh is home to a large number of Khmer Buddhists and Christians. The Old Quarter (see pp160–61) is Hanoi’s unique commercial district. Originally known as 36 Streets, this center used to cater to the needs of the palace in the 13th century. Today, this colorful, bustling market is a treasure house of silk, freshly ground coffee, lanterns, and more. View of Ho Tay or West Lake at dusk, Hanoi 0 kilometers 0 miles 200 200 NORTHERN VIETNAM (see pp182–205) HANOI (see pp156–81) CENTRAL VIETNAM (see pp124–55) SOUTH CENTRAL VIETNAM (see pp106–23) HO CHI MINH CITY (see pp56–87) MEKONG DELTA AND SOUTHERN VIETNAM (see pp88–105) Can Tho Ho Chi Minh City Nha Trang Haiphong Hanoi Hoi An Vinh Hue Dalat Quy Nhon Chau Doc Ca Mau Plei Kan Sapa Ha Giang Buon Ma Thuot Tuong Duong Quang Ngai Dien Bien Phu Thanh Hoa 054-055_EW_VTN.indd 54 14/07/16 4:41 pm VIETNAM AT A GLANCE 5 5 Hien Lam Pavilion in the Hue Citadel (see pp144–7) is also known as the Pavilion of Splendor. This exquisite triple-roofed temple is situated within the Yellow Enclosure of the Imperial City and presides over the massive Nine Dynastic Urns. Mui Ne Beach (see p110) stretches for 12 miles (20 km) and is one of the best beaches south of Nha Trang. Its windy weather between October and February is ideal for surfing. Mui Ne Village comes to life in the morning when the fish merchants are in action. The Rooftop Garden of the Rex Hotel (see p64) is one of Ho Chi Minh City’s most popular restaurants, offering spectacular views across the bustling and atmospheric streets of the city’s downtown district. The Po Nagar Cham Towers (see p113) were built in the 8th century and are among the most important Cham sites in Vietnam. Located in Nha Trang, these magnificent ruins provide an excellent insight into the architectural styles of the once mighty Cham Empire. NORTHERN VIETNAM (see pp182–205) HANOI (see pp156–81) CENTRAL VIETNAM (see pp124–55) SOUTH CENTRAL VIETNAM (see pp106–23) HO CHI MINH CITY (see pp56–87) MEKONG DELTA AND SOUTHERN VIETNAM (see pp88–105) Can Tho Ho Chi Minh City Nha Trang Haiphong Hanoi Hoi An Vinh Hue Dalat Quy Nhon Chau Doc Ca Mau Plei Kan Sapa Ha Giang Buon Ma Thuot Tuong Duong Quang Ngai Dien Bien Phu Thanh Hoa 054-055_EW_VTN.indd 55 14/07/16 4:41 pm 056-057_EW_VTN.indd 56 14/07/16 4:41 pm Originally established as a Khmer trading post, centuries ago, Ho Chi Minh City was destined for greater things. By the 18th century, the city, then named Saigon, had become the provincial capital of the Nguyen Dynasty. However, in the second half of the 19th century, control over the city passed to the French, and Saigon became the capital of French Cochinchina. This was a period of much infrastructural and architectural development, during which Saigon earned the epithet “Paris of the Orient.” Many buildings of this era are in good condition even today. In 1954, the city was pro claimed the capital of South Vietnam (see p47). The ensuing war between the US and the Communist North lasted until 1975, when North Vietnam took over Saigon and renamed it Ho Chi Minh City. Today, under growing economic and cultural liberalization, the city has entered a period of modernization and is constantly evolving and reinventing itself. Populated by almost eight million people, the city has long been the hub of manufacturing, entertainment, and cuisine in Vietnam. Upscale restaurants and cafés offering a range of international delicacies are opening every day, while bars, clubs, and discos are at the center of a thriving nightlife. The best place to catch the action is Dong Khoi (see pp60–61) and the rest of District 1. Attracting many tourists, the area is home to historical buildings and museums, sophisticated shops, and roadside cafés, as well as people of all ages zipping around noisily on motorbikes and causing gridlock. Large portrait of Ho Chi Minh presiding over the hallway of the General Post Office HO CHI MINH CITY The largest city in Vietnam is also its commercial capital and is fast becoming the nation’s window to the world. Buzzing with frenetic activity, cosmopolitan Ho Chi Minh City looks outward, listens to pop music, and drinks French wine. Existing alongside the high-rise hotels, shopping malls, and chic restaurants are ancient pagodas and colonial buildings, recalling a checkered but vibrant past. HO CHI MINH CITY 5 7 Meditating followers of the Cao Dai religion in the temple Cao Dai, South Vietnam. 056-057_EW_VTN.indd 57 14/07/16 4:41 pm Mien Tay Bus Station Mien Dong Bus Station DISTRICT 3 DISTRICT 10 DISTRICT 5 DISTRICT 6 DISTRICT 1 DISTRICT 11 Bach Dang Jetty Fhu Thiem Ferry Cholon Station THAO CAM PARK VAN HOA PARK HO KY HOA PARK DAM SEN PARK Saigon River Thi Nghe Channel Tau Hu Channel Cha Va Bridge Chu Y Bridge Khanh Hoi Bridge Thi Nighe Bridge Bong Bridge Kieu Bridge Truong Minh Giang Bridge Tran Quang Dieu Bridge Cong Ly Bridge Dien Bien Phu Bridge Mong Bridge NGUYEN THIEN THUAT SUONG NGUYET ANH D E T H A M C O N G Q UYNH HUYNH VAN BANH N G U YEN D U THAI VAN LUNG PHAM NGOC THACH TRAN KHANH DU M A C D I N H C H I LY CHINH THANG T U X I O N G L E VA N S I T R A N Q U O C T H A O LE QUY DON NGO THOI NHIEM THANH QUAN BA HUYEN V O V A N TA N B A N C O B U I TH I XU A N YERSIN LY TU TR ONG N G U Y E N D U HUYEN TRAN CONG CHUA C A L M E T T E CHINH DUC P A S T E U R P A S T E U R PA S T E U R HO TUNG MAU P H A M N G U L AO V O V A N T A N B E N H A M T U T R A N VA N K I E U N G O Q U Y E N N G O Q U Y E N SU V AN HANH SU VAN HANH D OI CUNG QUAN SU DINH NGHE MAI XUAN THUONG PHAM DINH HO HA T O N Q U Y E N DAO DUY TU NGUYEN TIEU LA NGUYEN KIM NGUYEN KIM L AN ONG PHAM HUU TAN CHI THANH S O 4 8 C O D I E U T R A N Q U Y TA U Y EN L E Q UA N G S U N G H A I T H U ONG TRAN VAN KIEU B E N B A I S AY LAC LONG QUAN H A N H A I N G U Y E N BINH DUONG THI XA B A H AT TAN PHUOC GIA PHU GIA PHU HOA HAO LO S I E U NGUYEN THI NHO N H A T T A O THAN QUOC TOAN DONG KHOI CAO THANG T R A N H U N G D A O BINH TAY B E N P H A N VA N K H O E LY N A M D E TRAN NHAN TONG N G U Y E N D U Y N G U Y E N BI E U TRA N B I NH T R O N G NGUYEN CU TRINH N G U Y E N C O N G T R U B A C H VAN T R A N Q U A N G K H A I PHAM VAN CHA NH NGUYEN VAN THU L E L A I BU I V I E N B I N H T H O I M I N H P H U N G M I N H P H U N G T O H I E N T H A N H TO HIEN THANH B A H A T B E N B I N H D O N G B E N B I N H D ON G T R A N Q U A N G D I E U V A N K I E P P H A N X I C H LO N G NGUYEN VAN PHU HEM AU CO TRINH DINH TRONG BUI HUU NGHIA NG TRONG TUYEN XOM DAT H O A H U N G L E T H A N H T O N TRAN MINH QUYEN PHAMHONG THAI LO S I E U N G U Y E N D I N H C H I E U N G U Y E N D I N H C H I E U NGUYEN DINH CHIEU N G U Y E N T R A I PHU THO LAC LONG QUAN L A C LO N G Q U A N TAN HOA H O A B I N H ONG ICH KHIEM L A N H B I N H T H A N G N G U Y E N B I N H K H I E M L E D U A N D I N H T I E N H O A N G DINH TIEN HOANG TON DUC THANG T O N G D U C T H A N G N GUYE N HUE HONG BANG N G T RAI N G U Y E N T R A I P H A N D I N H P H U N G H A I B A T R U N G H A I B A T R U N G NG VAN TROI N A M K Y K H O I N G H I A NAM KY KHOI NGHIA LE LOI A U C O L E D A I H A N H LY T H U O N G K I E T 3 T H A N G 2 3 T H A N G 2 XO VIET NGHE T INH N G U Y E N T H I M I N H K H A I T R A N P H U AN DUONG VUONG THAP MUOI B A C H D A N G P H A N D A N G L U U N G U Y E N VA N C U T R A N H U N G D A O HAM NGHI T R A N H U N G D AO N G O G I A T U D I E N B I E N P H U DIEN BIEN PHU DIEN BIEN PHU V O T H I S A U N G U Y E N C H I T H A N H P H O N G L E H O N G LY THAI TO N G U Y E N T R I PH U O N G NGUYEN TRI PHUONG NGUYEN THAI HOC C A C H M A N G T H A N G T A M HUNG VUONG H O N G B A N G Saigon Station Exploring Ho Chi Minh City The most prominent area in the city is around Dong Khoi Street in District 1, boasting fashionable shops, museums, and fine dining. It also features examples of French-Colonial structures, such as the Municipal Theater, Notre Dame Cathedral, and the General Post Office. To the north are sprawling residential areas and the historic Jade Emperor Pagoda, known for its exquisite architecture and ornate carvings. To the west lies Cholon, or Chinatown. Home to the ethnic Chinese, or Hoa, this is the best place to find herbs, traditional Chinese medi cines, and other goods, as well as some of the city’s most ancient pagodas. 5 8 VIETNAM AREA BY AREA HO CHI MINH CITY 5 9 Key National highway Major road Minor road Railroad Churches, Temples, and Pagodas 8 Notre Dame Cathedral w Jade Emperor Pagoda pp64–7 e Le Van Duyet Temple r Vinh Nghiem Pagoda u Xa Loi Pagoda i Mariamman Hindu Temple a Nghia An Hoi Quan Pagoda s Thien Hau Pagoda d Quan Am Pagoda g Phung Son Pagoda h Giac Vien Pagoda j One Pillar Pagoda of Thu Duc z Cao Dai Holy See pp78–9 Historic Sights and Buildings 4 People’s Committee Building 6 Bitexco Financial Tower 9 General Post Office k Cu Chi Tunnels Theaters 2 Municipal Theater Museums and Palaces 5 Ho Chi Minh City Museum 0 Independence Palace q Museum of Vietnamese History t Women’s Museum of Southern Vietnam y War Remnants Museum p Fine Arts Museum Beaches, Springs, Nature Reserves, and Mountain l Nui Ba Den v Ho Coc Beach b Binh Chau Hot Springs n Cat Tien National Park Sights at a Glance Towns and Markets o Ben Thanh Market f Binh Tay Market x Vung Tau c Long Hai Hotels 1 Caravelle Hotel 3 Continental Hotel 7 Rex Hotel 0 meters 0 yards 800 800 058-059_EW_VTN.indd 58 14/07/16 4:41 pm Mien Tay Bus Station Mien Dong Bus Station DISTRICT 3 DISTRICT 10 DISTRICT 5 DISTRICT 6 DISTRICT 1 DISTRICT 11 Bach Dang Jetty Fhu Thiem Ferry Cholon Station THAO CAM PARK VAN HOA PARK HO KY HOA PARK DAM SEN PARK Saigon River Thi Nghe Channel Tau Hu Channel Cha Va Bridge Chu Y Bridge Khanh Hoi Bridge Thi Nighe Bridge Bong Bridge Kieu Bridge Truong Minh Giang Bridge Tran Quang Dieu Bridge Cong Ly Bridge Dien Bien Phu Bridge Mong Bridge NGUYEN THIEN THUAT SUONG NGUYET ANH D E T H A M C O N G Q UYNH HUYNH VAN BANH N G U YEN D U THAI VAN LUNG PHAM NGOC THACH TRAN KHANH DU M A C D I N H C H I LY CHINH THANG T U X I O N G L E VA N S I T R A N Q U O C T H A O LE QUY DON NGO THOI NHIEM THANH QUAN BA HUYEN V O V A N TA N B A N C O B U I TH I XU A N YERSIN LY TU TR ONG N G U Y E N D U HUYEN TRAN CONG CHUA C A L M E T T E CHINH DUC P A S T E U R P A S T E U R PA S T E U R HO TUNG MAU P H A M N G U L AO V O V A N T A N B E N H A M T U T R A N VA N K I E U N G O Q U Y E N N G O Q U Y E N SU V AN HANH SU VAN HANH D OI CUNG QUAN SU DINH NGHE MAI XUAN THUONG PHAM DINH HO HA T O N Q U Y E N DAO DUY TU NGUYEN TIEU LA NGUYEN KIM NGUYEN KIM L AN ONG PHAM TAN HUU CHI THANH S O 4 8 C O D I E U T R A N Q U Y TA U Y EN L E Q UA N G S U N G H A I T H U ONG TRAN VAN KIEU B E N B A I S AY LAC LONG QUAN H A N H A I N G U Y E N BINH DUONG THI XA B A H AT TAN PHUOC GIA PHU GIA PHU HOA HAO LO S I E U NGUYEN THI NHO N H A T T A O THAN QUOC TOAN DONG KHOI CAO THANG T R A N H U N G D A O BINH TAY B E N P H A N VA N K H O E LY N A M D E TRAN NHAN TONG N G U Y E N D U Y N G U Y E N BI E U TRA N B I NH T R O N G NGUYEN CU TRINH N G U Y E N C O N G T R U B A C H VAN T R A N Q U A N G K H A I PHAM VAN CHA NH NGUYEN VAN THU L E L A I BU I V I E N B I N H T H O I M I N H P H U N G M I N H P H U N G T O H I E N T H A N H TO HIEN THANH B A H A T B E N B I N H D O N G B E N B I N H D ON G T R A N Q U A N G D I E U V A N K I E P P H A N X I C H LO N G NGUYEN VAN PHU HEM AU CO TRINH DINH TRONG BUI HUU NGHIA NG TRONG TUYEN XOM DAT H O A H U N G L E T H A N H T O N TRAN MINH QUYEN PHAMHONG THAI LO S I E U N G U Y E N D I N H C H I E U N G U Y E N D I N H C H I E U NGUYEN DINH CHIEU N G U Y E N T R A I PHU THO LAC LONG QUAN L A C LO N G Q U A N TAN HOA H O A B I N H ONG ICH KHIEM L A N H B I N H T H A N G N G U Y E N B I N H K H I E M L E D U A N D I N H T I E N H O A N G DINH TIEN HOANG TON DUC THANG T O N G D U C T H A N G N GUYE N HUE HONG BANG N G T RAI N G U Y E N T R A I P H A N D I N H P H U N G H A I B A T R U N G H A I B A T R U N G NG VAN TROI N A M K Y K H O I N G H I A NAM KY KHOI NGHIA LE LOI A U C O L E D A I H A N H LY T H U O N G K I E T 3 T H A N G 2 3 T H A N G 2 XO VIET NGHE T INH N G U Y E N T H I M I N H K H A I T R A N P H U AN DUONG VUONG THAP MUOI B A C H D A N G P H A N D A N G L U U N G U Y E N VA N C U T R A N H U N G D A O HAM NGHI T R A N H U N G D AO N G O G I A T U D I E N B I E N P H U DIEN BIEN PHU DIEN BIEN PHU V O T H I S A U N G U Y E N C H I T H A N H P H O N G L E H O N G LY THAI TO N G U Y E N T R I PH U O N G NGUYEN TRI PHUONG NGUYEN THAI HOC C A C H M A N G T H A N G T A M HUNG VUONG H O N G B A N G Saigon Station Exploring Ho Chi Minh City 5 8 VIETNAM AREA BY AREA HO CHI MINH CITY 5 9 Key National highway Major road Minor road Railroad Sights at a Glance Getting Around The areas of Dong Khoi and Cholon are small enough to be explored comfortably on foot. However, the most popular mode of transport is the Honda om, or motorbike taxi. A ride to anywhere in town should cost no more than a few dollars. Radio-dispatched, metered taxis are also common now. Most travel agencies will arrange trips to the outlying areas of the city. Towns and Markets o Ben Thanh Market f Binh Tay Market x Vung Tau c Long Hai Hotels 1 Caravelle Hotel 3 Continental Hotel 7 Rex Hotel Around Ho Chi Minh City 0 meters 0 yards 800 800 0 km 0 miles 30 30 For keys to symbols see back flap 14 1 22 13 1 51 55 50 Tan Son Nhat Airport Be Tri An Lake Dan Tieng Lake TAY NINH BINH DUONG BINH PHUOC DONG NAI BA RIAVUNG TAU LONGAN TIEN GIANG Vinh Long BEN TRE My Tho Tan An Cu Chi Go Dau Tay Ninh Thu Dau Mot Ba Ria Ho Chi Minh City Dong Xoai 058-059_EW_VTN.indd 59 14/07/16 4:41 pm Street-by-Street: Dong Khoi Arguably the liveliest part of the city, the area around Dong Khoi Street is the very nerve center of Ho Chi Minh City. Dong Khoi Street itself became famous during the French era, and was then known as the Rue Catinat. Home to stately hotels, elegant boutiques, and cozy cafés that coexisted with bars and brothels, it was at the center of most of the action in Graham Greene’s novel, The Quiet American. The subsequent communist regime shut down most of these establishments, but Viet nam’s economic liberalization in 1986 gave the area a new lease on life as smart hotels, restaurants, and shops slowly made a reappearance. Today, Dong Khoi’s vibrance is unparalleled in the country, and it does justice to the city’s old nickname “Paris of the Orient.” 6 0 VIETNAM AREA BY AREA For hotels and restaurants see pp236–7 and pp246–7 8 . Notre Dame Cathedral This tall, late 19th-century cathedral is built of locally quarried stone and covered with red ceramic tiles shipped in from France. The statue of the Virgin Mary was added to the lawns in front of the building in the 1950s. 9 . General Post Office One of the most handsome French-Colonial buildings in the city, the cavernous interior of this massive structure, with its comfortable benches, provides a cool respite from the heat outside. D O N G K H O I N G U Y E N D U N G U Y E N D U P A S T E U R The Metropolitan Building is home to HSBC’s headquarters and is a popular café spot. View of Dong Khoi from Diamond Plaza (see p255) L Y T U T R O N G 4 People’s Committee Building The erstwhile Hôtel de Ville now houses the office of the People’s Committee of Ho Chi Minh City. It is one of the most magnificent and photogenic colonial buildings in the entire city. 060-061_EW_VTN.indd 60 14/07/16 4:41 pm HO CHI MINH CITY 6 1 7 Rex Hotel A popular base for several journalists during the Vietnam War, the Rex is one of the best known landmarks in the city. The hotel’s rooftop bar offers superb views of the street below. 2 . Municipal Theater This lovely Neo-Classical building, known as the Opera House in colonial times, was once the heart of French high society. Key Suggested route 3 Continental Hotel Constructed in classic French-Colonial style, this elegant hotel is a serene haven amid the bustle of the city. The central atrium is popular for afternoon tea and the patio offers al fresco dining in summer. D O N G K H O I N G U Y E N D U L E T H A N H T O N L E L O I L Y T U T R O N G Lower Dong Khoi This area has become one of Saigon’s most fashionable spots for boutique shopping. Local brands such as Khai Silk can be found here, alongside well-known international brands such as Louis Vuitton (left). N G U Y E N H U E Caravelle Hotel The Vincom Shopping Center (Vincom Towers) is one of the largest modern shopping centers in Vietnam, selling a variety of imported brands. 0 meters 0 yards 150 150 Locator Map 060-061_EW_VTN.indd 61 14/07/16 4:41 pm 6 2 VIETNAM AREA BY AREA For hotels and restaurants see pp236–7 and pp246–7 The plush lobby of the Caravelle Hotel decorated with Christmas wreaths Diners relaxing in the Continental Hotel’s courtyard garden 3 Continental Hotel 132–134 Dong Khoi St, District 1. Map 2 F3. Tel (08) 3829 9201. Open daily. 0 - ∑continentalsaigon.com With its stately façade, the Continental is the grande dame of hotels built during French rule. The hotel is set around a courtyard, which is well-shaded with frangipani trees, while inside, the redcarpeted staircases retain their original tropical hardwood. The structure, for the most part, has been spared the “modernization” visited upon some other historic buildings in the city, and the hotel wears its patina of age well. The hotel has also earned a place in the annals of history for attracting illustrious visitors since its completion in 1886. During the Vietnam War, topflight journalists, including Walter Cronkite (1916–2009), would stay here and spend hours on the famous terrace bar, which they dubbed “The Continental Shelf.” Writers André Malraux (1901–76) and W. Somerset Maugham (1874–1965) are other guests of note, but it is Graham Greene (1904–91) who immortalized the Continental in his novel The Quiet American (1955). It is no surprise that he captured the spirit of the time and place so well, since he lived in the hotel for several months. 1 Caravelle Hotel 19–23 Lam Son Sq, District 1. Map 2 F3. Tel (08) 3823 4999. Open daily. 0 - = ∑caravellehotel.com When it opened on Christmas Eve in 1959, the Caravelle Hotel, at ten stories, was the tallest building in the city. At its gala launch, the hotel was praised by the local press for its central air-conditioning system and bulletproof glass. Its designers were considered almost prescient as the hotel became a central headquarters for diplomats and journalists during the Vietnam War (see pp48–9). Both Australia and New Zealand maintained embassies here, while the Washington Post, New York Times, Associated Press, and many other news agencies established bureaus in the hotel. Reporters would joke that they could cover the entire war without leaving their seats at the rooftop bar. The glamor faded after the fall of Saigon in 1975, when the hotel was taken over by the government. In 1998, however, it was reopened after extensive renovations. Today, with its soaring, new marble-lined tower, Caravelle is one of the city’s most luxurious hotels. While old-timers may have trouble recognizing it, the rooftop bar, with its curved 2 Municipal Theater 7 Lam Son Sq, Intersection of Le Loi and Dong Khoi sts, District 1. Map 2 F3. Tel (08) 3829 9976. Open varies. &-∑hbso.org.vn/ A superb, French-Colonial style building, the Municipal Theater or Nha Hat Thanh Pho was built in 1899 as a concert hall for the French. Still referred to as the Opera House, the hall served temporarily as the headquarters of the South Vietnam National Assembly in 1956. A graceful staircase leads up to the entrance, which is flanked by two huge columns shaped like Greco-Roman goddesses. Winged figures and exquisite scroll works grace the eaves below the roof, and the grounds are speckled with lovely fountains and statues. While the interior is not as ornate, it is a fine setting for performances that include everything from traditional Vietnamese theater and Western classical music to rock concerts and a regular hour-long cultural show. Program details are posted on the box office billboards and online. Finely carved figures on the rooftop of the Municipal Theater balconied corners, still tops the old wing and there are few better places for an evening cocktail. 062-063_EW_VTN.indd 62 14/07/16 4:41 pm HO CHI MINH CITY 6 3 The imposing façade of the French-Colonial People’s Committee Building 4 People’s Committee Building Intersection of Le Thanh Ton and Nguyen Hue sts, District 1. Map 2 E3. Closed to the public. Designed by French architect P. Gardes and completed in 1908, the People’s Committee Building, once known as the Hôtel de Ville, is probably the most photographed building in the city. It was outside this building in 1945, that thousands of people congregated to establish the Provisional Administrative Committee of South Vietnam. Still the house of the city government, it sits regally at the city’s center. Contrary to popular belief, this striking building has never been a hostelry, nor is it open to the public. Modeled on the City Hall in Paris, it comprises two stories, with two wings off a central hall and a clock tower. It is capped with a red-tile roof, and its fanciful yellow-and-cream-colored façade is most often described as “gingerbread.” Despite its obviously Parisian appearance, the building fits in well with the cityscape, especially at night when it is gorgeously floodlit. Unfortunately, there is no way for the general public to see the chandelier-bedecked interior today. However, the square in front of the hall, featuring a statue of Ho Chi Minh cradling a child, is a popular vantage point to admire the structure. 5 Ho Chi Minh City Museum 65 Ly Tu Trong St, District 1. Map 2 E4. Tel (08) 3829 9741. Open 8am–5pm. & = ∑hcmc-museum.edu.vn Once the French governor general’s residence, this, like many of the city’s buildings, looks as if it were shipped in pieces from France and reassembled here. Light grey with white trim and a colon nade, it strikes a commanding presence. The spacious halls, with high ceilings and chandeliers, are a much sought-after venue for wedding photographs. Spread over two rambling floors, the museum purports to represent 300 years of the city’s history. However, its original name, Revolutionary Museum, is a more accurate indicator of what to expect. The first floor has somewhat scattered displays of pictures of Saigon during the French rule, old maps, and crumbling documents from the time the city was founded in the 17th century. Also here are relics from Vietnam’s natural history and ethnic wedding costumes. The second floor is devoted to Vietnam’s struggle against imperialism. Weapons such as AK-47 rifles and impro vised bombs are showcased here, along with photo graphs of soldiers, letters from the front, and political manifestos. Many obligatory engines of war, including a Huey heli copter, a jet fighter, and an Americanbuilt tank can be seen on display outside. The museum also has an extensive collection of Vietnamese currency. Picture taken during the fall of Saigon (1975) at Ho Chi Minh City Museum 6 Bitexco Financial Tower 36 Ho Tung Mau St, District 1. Map 2 F4. Tel (08) 3915 6156. Open 9:30am–9:30pm daily. & \= ∑saigonskydeck.com Since opening in 2010, this building has become Saigon’s newest icon and an emblem of the city’s rejuvenation. The tallest building in the city, its slender, tapered shape with a helipad jutting near the top is visible from everywhere in the city center. The main attraction for visitors is the Saigon Skydeck on the 49th floor, which offers panaromic views of the city center and the Saigon river flowing through it. The observation deck provides information about the history and culture of the city. Binoculars are fitted in the glass walls. From this vantage point 584 ft (178 m) above the ground, many of Saigon’s sights are visible, including the Municipal Theater, the People’s Committee Building, and Ben Thanh Market. The bird’s eye view also gives an idea of the frantic pace of the city’s development, with new high-rise blocks appearing all around. The tower also has many high-end stores for shopping enthusiasts as well as a wide range of fine restaurants and cafés and a cinema. 062-063_EW_VTN.indd 63 14/07/16 4:41 pm For hotels and restaurants see pp236–7 and pp246–7 Rose Garden Restaurant, Rex Hotel 9 General Post Office 2 Cong Xa Paris Sq, District 1. Map 2 E3. Tel (08) 3829 3274. Open 8am–5pm daily. = Designed by French architect Gustave Eiffel between 1886 and 1891, Buu Dien Trung Tam or the General Post Office is one of the most attractive buildings in the city. Its massive façade is coral colored with a cream trim and also features carvings of the faces of famous philosophers and scientists, below which are finely engraved inscriptions. In all, the building is no less than a temple to the art of communicating by mail. Strangely evocative of the inside of a railway station, the interior is vaulted and supported by wrought-iron pillars painted green, with gilded capitals. The floor tilework is intricate, especially in the foyer where huge antique maps illuminated by chandeliers depict the city and the region. One of the maps shows the city in 1892, and another portrays the region in 1932. A large portrait of Ho Chi Minh gazes over the daily bustle. Wooden writing benches are available for patrons’ use, as is a kiosk selling souve nirs and stamps. The entire hall is cooled by overhead fans. 8 Notre Dame Cathedral 1 Cong Xa Paris Sq, District 1. Map 2 E3. Tel (08) 3822 0477. Open 8–10:30am, 3–4pm Mon–Sat. Services: Sun (9:30am in English). 7 The basilica-style Notre Dame Cathedral, or Nha Tho Duc Ba, is the largest church ever built in the French Empire. When it was completed in 1880, its 40-m (120-ft) spires made it the tallest structure in the city. At first glance it seems to be brick-built, 7 Rex Hotel 141 Nguyen Hue Blvd, District 1. Map 2 E4. Tel (08) 3829 2185. Open daily. 0 - = ∑ rexhotelvietnam.com Located in the center of the city, the Rex Hotel has played an important part in Ho Chi Minh City’s history ever since its construction in the 1950s. Originally built by French colonial developers, it quickly became a focus of the social and military activities of American soldiers during the Vietnam War. It was from here that US military officers gave the daily press briefings that became known as “The Five O’Clock Follies,” recognized for their blatantly self-serving nature. Today, with its very popular rooftop bar, the Rex still serves as an important gathering place. Corporate conclaves are held here, gamblers flock to its bingo parlor, and innumer able weddings are celebrated in the central court. but in fact, the façade is made of red tiles brought over from Marseilles and attached to granite walls. Stained-glass windows from Chartres were installed, but destroyed during WWII and later replaced with plain glass. The interior is relatively unadorned, but the ambient lighting creates a calm atmosphere. In front of the cathedral is a statue of the Virgin Mary. Made in Rome, it was brought to Vietnam in 1959 and named Holy Mary Queen of Peace, in the hope that she would bring peace to the war-torn country. While the city’s Roman Catholic community is no longer a political force, droves of worshippers still throng the church. The belfry, open on Sundays, affords lovely views. The cavernous, elongated interior of the General Post Office Virgin Mary, Notre Dame Cathedral 6 4 VIETNAM AREA BY AREA 064-065_EW_VTN.indd 64 14/07/16 4:41 pm Visitors interacting with elephants at the Saigon Zoo and Botanical Garden with glittering chandeliers and elaborate antiques. Also not to be missed are the elephants’ feet in the “presidential gifts display” and the large lacquerwork piece depicting scenes from the Le Dynasty (see p44). In the base ment is a bunker and military operations center, with radio transmitters and maps. Oddly, the third floor also features a gambling room. Adjoining Independence Palace is a park with trees that offers a place to relax. The stern and imposing façade of Independence Palace, a unique example of 1960s Vietnamese architecture q Museum of Vietnamese History 2 Nguyen Binh Khiem St, District 1. Map 2 F1. Tel (08) 3829 8146. Open 8–11am, 1:30–5pm Tue– Sun. &^=Saigon Zoo and Botanical Garden 2 Nguyen Binh Khiem St. Tel (08) 3829 1425. Open 7am–9pm daily. &7- ∑ saigonzoo.net Built in a classic pagoda style, this very attractive museum, also known as Bao Tang Lich Su, contains a vast collection of artifacts, spanning almost the Vase from the Le Dynasty entire history of Vietnam. Relics from the beginning of the nation’s cultural evolution can be seen in the form of prehistoric implements and tools. These are followed by bronze artifacts from the Hung Kings era (see p41). Standout exhibits include bronze drums belonging to the Dong Son civilization, and tokens from the Oc Eo culture, including a 2ndcentury AD Roman coin. Farther on are remnants belonging to the Nguyen Dynasty (see p45), with a rich collection of garments and jewelry. Also on display are numerous Cham and Khmer relics, such as a stone lingam and ceramics. A prominent exhibit is that of a mummy dating back to 1869. Somewhat out of place, although interesting, is the daily scheduled water puppet show (see p163). The museum is set on the expan sive and scenic grounds of the Saigon Zoo and Botanical Garden, which provide an ideal setting for a relaxing meander. 0 Independence Palace 106 Nguyen Du, District 1. Map 2 D3. Tel (08) 3822 3652. Open 7:30–11am, 1–4pm daily, except during official functions. & 8 ∑ dinhdoclap.gov.vn Set on wellmaintained and spacious grounds, this historic building is a prominent symbol of the country’s political history. During the 19th century, Independence Palace was the site of the Norodom Palace, former residence of the French governor general. It was later occupied by South Vietnam’s President Ngo Dinh Diem (see p47), and named the Presidential Palace. In 1962, much of the structure was destroyed when Diem’s own air force bombed it in a failed assassination attempt. The building was rebuilt soon after, but Diem was killed before he could move in. It was in this former palace’s International Reception Room that succeeding President Van Thieu received potentates and presidents, until he boarded a chopper from the rooftop helipad and fled before North Vietnamese troops took over Saigon. In 1975, the South surrendered to the North, and the palace gates were knocked down by a North Vietnamese Army tank. The photograph of this event (see p63) has become emblem atic of the reunification of Vietnam. Today, the interior remains largely unchanged, with high and wide corridors that open onto cavernous lobbies and reception rooms. The living quarters, built around a sunny atrium, are lavishly furnish ed HO CHI MINH CITY 6 5 064-065_EW_VTN.indd 65 14/07/16 4:41 pm w Jade Emperor Pagoda One of the city’s most ornate pagodas, this small house of worship honors the King of all Heavens, Ngoc Hoang or the Jade Emperor – chief deity of the Taoist pantheon. Built by the Cantonese community in 1909, its pink façade is almost simple, but the tile roof is an intricate work of art, as are the large wooden doors, richly carved with images of gods and men. Most remark able, however, are the vibrantly colorful and gilded images of Buddhist divinities and Taoist deities inside the temple. Just about every surface is embellished with tiles and carvings, most of which are dense with religious imagery and symbols. 6 6 VIETNAM AREA BY AREA For hotels and restaurants see pp236–7 and pp246–7 Carved panel depicting one of 1,000 torments in the Hall of Ten Hells Outer Courtyard Shaded with flowering shrubs and an ancient banyan tree, the outer courtyard is a peaceful spot with park benches and a turtle pond. To the main gate Women’s Room This fascinating enclosure is filled with two rows of six ceramic female figurines. Draped in colorful robes, each woman represents a lunar year, each juxta posed with a vice or virtue. Kim Hoa, Goddess of Mothers, officiates over the colorful gathering. KEY 1 The incinerator is used for burning votive paper offerings. The rising smoke is said to reach the ancestors in heaven. 2 The King of Hell and his red, lifesize horse head the Hall of Ten Hells, which is lined with wood reliefs depicting lurid scenes of damnation 3 Tortoise Shelter This small sanctuary is home to several turtles, which are considered symbols of good luck and fortune in Vietnam. However, although images of turtles are common, such shelters are quite rare. 066-067_EW_VTN.indd 66 14/07/16 4:41 pm HO CHI MINH CITY 6 7 . Main Sanctuary Attended by guardians and resplendent in flowing robes, the Jade Emperor presides over the main sanctuary. Religious Significance of the Hearth Ong Tao or the Kitchen God resides in the family hearth and acts as the Jade Emperor’s snitch, as he knows all that transpires in the home. He is portrayed as a droll, fat fellow whose trousers burned off as a result of standing too close to the fire. Most kitchens in Vietnam contain an altar to him, and every year, during Tet (see pp32–3), Ong Tao reports each family’s conduct to the Jade Emperor. If there is strife, the family is punished, but if there is harmony, it is rewarded. To get a good report, Ong Tao’s altar is never empty of offerings of food, drink, and incense. . Mother of Five Buddhas One of the most unusual altars here is that of Phat Mau Chuan De, Mother of Five Buddhas of the Cardinal Directions. Her Hindustyle effigy is flanked by statues of her five sons. Traditional Stacked Roof with Green Ceramic Tiles A pride of dragons, believed to represent a connection to the divine, rise from the jungle of roof peaks, made of elaborate woodwork and ceramic tiles. . Giant Demon Guards Made from a resilient kind of papiermâché, the two largerthanlife demon guards are richly painted and robed in finery. One restrains an evil dragon under his foot, and the other a rampant tiger. Offerings for Ong Tao in a family altar VISITORS’ CHECKLIST Practical Information 73 Mai Thi Luu St, District 1. Map 2 D1. Open 8am–5pm daily. Since it can be hard to hail a taxi from the temple, it is wise to arrange for a pick up ahead of time. 066-067_EW_VTN.indd 67 14/07/16 4:41 pm 6 8 VIETNAM AREA BY AREA For hotels and restaurants see pp236–7 and pp246–7 The spacious courtyard and richly embellished exterior of Le Van Duyet Temple r Vinh Nghiem Pagoda 339 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia St, District 3. Map 1 B2. Tel (08) 3896 6798. Open sunrise–sunset daily. = Completed with aid from the Japan-Vietnam Friendship Association in 1971, this is, by some measures, the largest pagoda in the city. Certainly, its eight-story tower, located immediately to the left of a high gate, is the tallest. Each side of the tower is adorned with an image of the Buddha in high relief. To the right of the gate is a smaller, 16-ft (5-m) high tower, built of concrete blocks. The concrete is of such quality and color that the structure appears to be made of granite. Across a 65-ft (20-m) courtyard is the large, squat main building. A steep staircase leads up to the sanctuary where five massive lacquerware doors lead into the vast first room. The walls here are lined with well-executed paintings of scriptural scenes and explanatory notes are posted alongside. Farther in is the main altar with a huge, seated Buddha, flanked by disciples. Behind the sanctuary lies a solemn room, filled with photographs and memorials to the departed. A statue of the goddess Quan Am sits on the altar here. On the second floor, a cloister leads into an art gal lery where local artists show their works. Rock and topiary gardens flank the building. e Le Van Duyet Temple 1 Bis Phan Dang Luu St, Binh Thanh District. Tel (08) 3841 2517. Open sunrise–sunset daily. _ Le Van Duyet Temple Festival (late Aug–early Sep). Dedicated to General Le Van Duyet (1763–1831), this is perhaps the best example of a temple devoted to a national hero rather than to a deity or religion. Le Van Duyet helped suppress the Tay Son Rebellion (see p45), and was lauded by Emperor Gia Long. After Van Duyet’s death, he was repudiated by Emperor Minh Mang (r.1820–41), but was restored to favor in the 1840s, and the temple was built to honor him. The main sanctuary is bereft of any images other than a large portrait of Le Van Duyet, reminding devotees that they are worshipping a mortal. Also inside is a fascinating collection of the general’s personal effects, such as crystalware, weapons, and a stuffed tiger. The patrons are mostly locals who come here to meditate, make offerings, or even seal a solemn oath in lieu of the services of a notary public. Over the years, the temple has grown into a complex of interconnected buildings, cloisters, patios, and courts. From the street, a gate leads into a large parkland, with tall trees shading the benches. The temple exterior is remarkable for its mosaic wall panels and reliefs. The outer sanctuary is unique in its lack of embellishment. All the pillars and altars are made of carved and polished wood, as are the giant cranes and the life-size horse seen here. In contrast, the inner sanctum adjoining it is a blaze of color, with red-and-gold dragon pillars. Le Van Duyet’s tomb is also located on the premises and an annual festival – with a chance to hear traditional boi singing – is held at the temple to mark the anniversary of his death. Vinh Nghiem Pagoda’s eight-story tower soaring over its surroundings Huge Buddha with swastika, Vinh Nghiem Pagoda 068-069_EW_VTN.indd 68 14/07/16 4:41 pm HO CHI MINH CITY 6 9 t Women’s Museum of Southern Vietnam 202 Vo Thi Sau St, District 3. Map 1 C3. Tel (08) 3932 0322. Open 8–11:30am, 1:30–4:30pm daily. 8 = To bring to light the cultural and military contributions made by South Vietnamese women over the ages, the Women’s Museum of Southern Vietnam or Bao Tang Phu Nu Nam Bo was established in 1985. The ten rooms here span three stories and are filled with fascinating displays, ranging from military plaques and medals to a selection of beautiful ethnic costumes. The tour usually begins from the third floor. The exhibits in this set of rooms are dedicated to women who were involved in the 20th-century communist struggle for independence and unifi cation. Their photographs line the walls, and some of their personal effects are displayed in glass cases, providing a reminder that Vietnamese women were no strangers to combat. The second floor continues the theme, with the addition of statues and large paintings of historical events involving women. There is also a re-creation of the prison cell that once held a national heroine captive. However, the first floor, with its focus on traditional crafts and customs, is the most colorful. The anteroom, with a mock-up of a temple entrance bedecked with many artifacts, is dedicated to the ancient Vietnamese practice of goddess worship. In the next room, faux terraces fea ture mannequins dressed in exquisite regional costumes. In a large room to the left is a complex exhibit about the pro duc tion of cotton cloth and rush mats. These prod ucts are woven by women in craft villages of the south. The museum complex also boasts a movie theater, a small library, and a boutique. Tank displayed on the grounds of the War Remnants Museum u Xa Loi Pagoda 89B Ba Huyen Thanh St, District 3. Map 1 C4. Tel (08) 3930 0114. Open 7–11am, 2–7pm daily. This was one of the most important pagodas during the communist revolution. Built in 1956, it was a center of resistance to Ngo Dinh Diem’s (see p47) corrupt and anti-Buddhist regime in the early 1960s. Three of its monks immolated themselves publicly as a gesture of protest, and on one occasion, about 400 worshippers and clergy were arrested. These actions were crucial in galvanizing wide spread opposition to the Diem regime, ultimately leading to the coup that resulted in his assassination in 1963. Today, few traces of these tumultuous events remain as the pagoda’s colorful seventiered tower rises above the temple complex. The roof soars to 49 ft (15 m), and large painted panels at the top of the walls depict scenes from the life of the Buddha. The monks’ quarters are on the first floor of the two-storied main building, and the sanc tuary, unusual for its spare decor, is above. The ample space is devoid of fur nishings, pillars, censers, and displays so that the visitor is drawn to the massive bronze statue of the Buddha seated behind the solitary altar. y War Remnants Museum 28 Vo Van Tan St, District 3. Map 2 D3. Tel (08) 3930 5587. Open 7:30am– noon, 1:30–5pm daily. & - = ∑ warremnantsmuseum.com Located in the former US Information Service building, this exhibition has films, pictures, and other items on display that document war atrocities committed by American, Chinese, and French soldiers in grim detail. Events are told from a Vietnamese perspective and are both moving and thought-provoking. Among the most disturbing exhibits are the formaldehyde-filled jars containing foetuses deformed as a result of the chemical defoliants used during the Vietnam War. Also displayed here are photo graphs showing the effects of torture, a video of a prisoner being thrown from a helicopter by Vietnam’s aggressors, along with many American weapons, military vehicles, and even a French guillotine. Colossal bronze Buddha inside Xa Loi Pagoda Cluster bomb, War Remnants Museum 068-069_EW_VTN.indd 69 14/07/16 4:41 pm 7 0 VIETNAM AREA BY AREA For hotels and restaurants see pp236–7 and pp246–7 Well-stocked stall at Ben Thanh Market i Mariamman Hindu Temple 45 Truong Dinh St, District 1. Map 2 D4. Tel (08) 3823 2735. Open sunrise– sunset daily. 7 Dedicated to Mariamman, an incarnation of Shakti, the Hindu Goddess of Strength, Mariamman Hindu Temple caters not only to the small community of Hindus in Ho Chi Minh City, but also to the many local Vietnamese Buddhists, who worship here either looking for good luck or driven by superstition. Built in the late 19th century, the temple is quite small but beautiful, and superbly maintained by the government. The bright, coral-colored wall of the façade is surmounted by numerous images of deities, cows, and lions, all painted vividly in pink, green, and blue. Over the entrance, a steppedpyramidal tower covered with more sculpted images, mostly of female deities, rises from the rooftop. Inside, an imposing statue of a red-robed lion guards the entrance, which opens into an uncovered portico that surrounds the main sanctuary. Three of the courtyard’s walls are inset with altar nooks in which images of various gods and goddesses rest. Set in the o Ben Thanh Market Intersection of Le Loi and Ham Nghi blvds, District 1. Map 2 E4. Open 6am– 5pm daily; later outside. 7-0= One of the most recognizable landmarks in the city, this huge shopping center was built in 1914 by the French, who named it Les Halles Centrales or Central Market Halls. Its most famous feature is the massive clock tower that dominates the neighborhood. Home to several hundred shopkeepers, the market offers an amazingly extensive and varied selection of merchandise, ranging from food and leather goods to household items and clothing, as well as hardware and livestock. The atmosphere here is one of high energy and tremendous bustle (visitors should beware of pickpockets) as products arrive from around the country and, throughout the day, merchants sing out their wares, customers haggle, and tourists wander in search of great deals. It is common practice to bargain hard for everything; start at around a third of the asking price. On entering through the main portal on Le Loi Boulevard, general merchandise is on the left. To the right is clothing and textiles. Moving farther in, to the right are dry goods, such as tea, coffee, and spices, as well as packaged foods. Halfway in, fresh foods are on the right, and food stalls, where meals are available, to the left. The eateries here are famous for both quality and price. Since the signage is in English as well as Vietnamese, patrons can point to the posted menu to order. center of the portico, the sanctuary itself is slightly raised. Made of stone, it recalls the architectural style of Angkor Wat (see pp216–17), and forms the setting for the multi-armed represen tation of Mariamman. The goddess is surrounded by many attending deities, including Ganesha, the Hindu Elephant God, as well as two female deities, who stand on either side of her. Two lingam (Hindu phallic symbols) also stand before her. The altar is surrounded by numerous incense burners and brass figurine oil lamps. Worshippers hold incense sticks in both hands while praying. The rear of the sanctuary has a Colorful images of goddesses on the façade of Mariamman Hindu Temple prayer wall against which the faithful press their heads in the hope that the goddess will be able to hear their prayers clearly. 070-071_EW_VTN.indd 70 14/07/16 4:41 pm HO CHI MINH CITY 7 1 p Fine Arts Museum 97A Pho Duc Chinh St, District 1. Map 2 E5. Tel (08) 3829 4441. Open 9am–5pm Tue–Sun. & = At first sight, this handsome building, painted a burned yellow with white trim, appears typically French. Built on a large scale, the structure features columns and wrought-ironwork on windows and balconies, all topped with a Chinese-style tiled roof. Inside, the museum is home to three floors of Vietnamese art, which includes ceramics, lacquerware, sculptures, and oil paintings by Vietnamese and foreign artists. The first floor hosts rotating exhibits of contemporary art. The second floor is given over largely to political art, almost all of it related to the Vietnam War. It displays paintings of some of the leading artists of the country. This floor also has a fine selection of ceramics, mostly of Chinese style or origin. The museum’s most interesting collection can be found on the third floor. Cham, Funan, Khmer, Chinese, and Indian works of art are well represented here. On display are many antiques, Oc Eo pottery and sculptures, Chinese objets d’art and wood carvings, and Cham statues. A main highlight is a set of wooden funeral statues from the Central Highlands dating from the early 20th century. Unfortunately, there is little in the way of English signage to help understand the exhibits. Two galleries behind the museum also offer pieces of contemporary art for sale. The museum holds exhibitions by local artists very often. There are quite a few private galleries on the courtyard. War exhibit displaying helmets of unknown soldiers, Fine Arts Museum Stone bust, Fine Arts Museum Vietnam on Film The setting for more Hollywood films than any country in the region, Vietnam features in more than just war-related movies. The first Hollywood movie set here was Red Dust (1932), a romantic drama starring Clark Gable, while both versions of Graham Greene’s The Quiet American, in 1957 with Audie Murphy and in 2002 with Michael Caine, concentrate on politics and ethics. Of course, war movies do abound, with Francis Ford Coppola’s allegorical Apocalypse Now (1979) and Oliver Stone’s realistic Platoon (1986) being two of the best known. Beyond Hollywood, Regis Wargnier’s Indochine (1993) is a sensuous romp through the lives of the privileged in colonial Vietnam. French-Vietnamese director Tran Anh Hung’s Cyclo (1996) – banned in Vietnam – is a grim look at the seedier side of modern life in Ho Chi Minh City. His Scent of Green Papaya (1993), however, is a feast for the eyes. Scene from Oliver Stone’s Platoon a Nghia An Hoi Quan Pagoda 678 Nguyen Trai St, Cholon. Map 4 E4. Tel (08) 3853 8775. Open sunrise–sunset daily. Renowned for its detailed woodwork and intricate carvings, this pagoda is one of the oldest in Ho Chi Minh City. Built in the 19th century, the temple is dedicated to Quan Cong, a deified Chinese general, and Nghia An, his horse’s faithful groom. On entering, to the left are two of the pagoda’s most distinctive features – larger-than-life-size wooden statues of Quan Cong’s red horse and Nghia An. Devotees pray at these statues, touching them to collect blessings. Of the two, the horse is considered more sacred. Devotees ring the bell around its neck, and crawl under it to the other side, symbolically wiping up blessings along the way. To the right is a glass encased altar to Ong Bon, Guardian of Happiness and Virtue. The main sanctuary, entered through wooden folding screen doors, features friezes of a tiger and dragon on either side of the hall. The glass cases behind the main altar have images of Quan Cong and his assistants – Quan Binh, his chief mandarin, on the right, and Chau Xuong, his chief general, on the left. On the 14th day of the 1st lunar month, unicorn, lion and dragon dance groups perform in front of the temple. After the worship takes place, numerous artistic activities commence that last for a few nights. These performances and activities are held to demonstrate the admiration of the Hoa community for Quan Cong. 070-071_EW_VTN.indd 71 14/07/16 4:41 pm 7 2 VIETNAM AREA BY AREA For hotels and restaurants see pp236–7 and pp246–7 Key Suggested route 3 Thien Hau Pagoda Perhaps the most outstanding feature of this pagoda is the finely carved frieze along its roof, depicting detailed scenes from Chinese legends (see p74). 2 Quan Am Pagoda The only temple complex in the city bisected by a street, this pagoda, also known as Ong Lang, has a colorful façade and an exquisitely detailed ceramic-tiled roof (see p74). 1 Phuoc An Hoi Quan Pagoda The Fujian community built this pagoda in 1902, dedicating it to Quan Cong. The ancient spears displayed before the main altar represent the cardinal virtues. Cholon Walking Tour Home to Chinese traders and merchants for more than three centuries, Cholon, which means big market, has long been one of Ho Chi Minh City’s most vibrant commercial centers. Also known as District 5, its markets are always busy and brimming with a wide range of specialty shops selling everything from silks, spices, and medicinal herbs to hats, jade curios, and ceramics. With much of the city’s vast ethnic Chinese or Hoa community concentrated here, Cholon is a religious hub and home to several Chinese-style pagodas and temples. These striking buildings are concentrated on and around Cholon’s main street, Nguyen Trai, which runs through the heart of the area. The narrow streets of this bustling district are best traversed on foot. Spirals of burning incense, Thien Hau Pagoda (see p74) The electronics market is a onestop destination for a range of products, such as TVs, toasters, air conditioners, and more. 0 meters 0 yards 100 100 T A N H U N G H U N G V U O N G H U N G V U O N G C H A U V A N L I E M T R A N H U N G D A O T R I E U Q U A N G P H U C L U O N G N H U H O C N G U Y E N T R A I N G U Y E N T R A I P H U D O N G T H I E N V U O N G L A O T U K Y H O À K Y H O À T A N D A 6 5 3 4 2 1 072-073_EW_VTN.indd 72 14/07/16 4:41 pm HO CHI MINH CITY 7 3 Trieu Quang Phuc Street Pungent with the herbs from its numerous traditional Chinese medicine shops, Trieu Quang Phuc is one of Cholon’s noi siest and busiest streets. 6 Tam Son Hoi Quan Pagoda Dedicated to Me Sanh, the Goddess of Fertility, this 19th-century pagoda is colorfully deco rated, with a number of shrines to various deities. Me Sanh’s image graces a small altar at the back of the pag oda, and is worshipped by women hoping to conceive. 5 Cholon Mosque Built in the early 1930s, this unassuming little mosque has a serene charm. Its modest and simple architecture is in contrast to the ornate pagodas in the area. 4 Nghia An Hoi Quan Pagoda Lavishly decorated in red and gold, and embellished with elaborate woodwork, the main altar of Nghia An Hoi Quan is dedicated to Quan Cong, a revered Nguyen lord (see p71). Tips for the Tour Tour length: 1 mile (1.6 km). Stopping-off points: Xa Tay Market, next to Cholon Mosque, Trieu Quang Phuc Street, and the electronics market are great places to pick up a range of goods at affordable prices. The stretch on Tran Hung Dao has a number of decent, if expensive, eateries. Road safety: Traffic can be heavy along Hung Vuong, so take care when walking here. Locator Map T A N H U N G H U N G V U O N G H U N G V U O N G C H A U V A N L I E M T R A N H U N G D A O T R I E U Q U A N G P H U C L U O N G N H U H O C N G U Y E N T R A I N G U Y E N T R A I P H U D O N G T H I E N V U O N G L A O T U K Y H O À K Y H O À T A N D A 6 5 3 4 2 1 072-073_EW_VTN.indd 73 14/07/16 4:41 pm 7 4 VIETNAM AREA BY AREA For hotels and restaurants see pp236–7 and pp246–7 The elaborately carved sculptures and ceramic friezes along the roof of Thien Hau Pagoda d Quan Am Pagoda 12 Lao Tu St, Cholon. Map 4 D4. Tel (08) 3855 3543. Open 8am– 4.30pm daily. This pagoda, also known as Ong Lang, was built by Chinese merchants in 1816 and honors Quan Am (or Kwan Yin), the Chinese Goddess of Mercy. The unusual pagoda is set in two parts, separated by a street. On the south side is a small plaza that adjoins a grotto set in a fish and turtle pond, while the north side houses the main temple complex. The eye-catching roof and entryway are richly adorned with paintings of saints, gilded scrollwork, and carved wooden panels depicting dragons, houses, people, and scenes from traditional Chinese life and stories. Inside, the first altar is dedicated to the Buddha, and leads into the main sanctuary, featuring two rotating lotus-shaped prayer wheels inset with scores of Buddha images. Devotees make a donation to the temple and can then affix a label with their name onto one of the images. With each turn of the column their prayer is heard. Next to the main altar is a representation of Quan Am, surrounded by the images of several other deities, including Amida, or the Happy Buddha, who represents the future; A Di Da, the Buddha of the Past; and Thich Ca, the Historical Buddha, Siddhartha. On either side of the altar are small incinerators. Paper money is burnt here for the benefit of departed souls. The pagoda maintains a large and unusual collection of live turtles for good luck. In a courtyard behind the sanctuary are more altars and images of gods and goddesses. The entire complex is filled with oil lamps and votive candles. The latter are small oilfilled glasses with wicks that are regularly refilled and imbue the air with the fragrance of incense. s Thien Hau Pagoda 710 Nguyen Trai St, Cholon. Map 4 E4. Tel (08) 3855 5322. Open sunrise– sunset daily. _ Thien Hau Pagoda Festival (Apr). Also named Hoi Quan Tue Thanh, but commonly known as Chua Ba, or Lady’s Pagoda, this temple is dedicated to Thien Hau, Goddess of the Sea and Patroness of Sailors. Built in the early 1800s by the Cantonese congregation, this is one of the most popular and richly embellished temples in the city. The front courtyard is surrounded by high walls, topped by intricate friezes and carved tableau. The entrance ceiling is more complex, with woodwork and gilt reaching halfway down to the floor. Inside, the atrium, with its exquisite friezes and reliefs, features giant censers billowing fragrant smoke. The spacious central room has a display case of what seem to be brass clubs with Chinese inscriptions. In fact, these are the nozzles of the fire hoses used to extinguish a fire that threatened the temple in 1898. The walls of this room are covered with prayer flags – red strips of paper on which devotees write their prayers. It is believed that as the breeze rustles the paper, the prayers waft to Thien Hau. Banks of hanging incense coils grace the main sanctuary ceiling, while three statues of Thien Hau, each flanked by two attendants, preside at the altar. Also hanging from the ceiling is Quan Am, resplendent in white, Quan Am Pagoda a carved wooden boat that recalls Thien Hau’s connection to the sea. To the right is an image of Long Mau, God dess of Mothers and Newborns. Incense pot in Thien Hau Pagoda 074-075_EW_VTN.indd 74 14/07/16 4:41 pm HO CHI MINH CITY 7 5 f Binh Tay Market Thap Muoi St, Cholon. Map 3 C5. Tel (08) 3857 1512. Open 8am–5pm daily. 0 =∑chobinhtay.gov.vn The literal translation of cho lon is “big market”, and Binh Tay Market justifies the name. This grand marketplace is a pagodastyle tribute to trade. Originally a small collection of open-air stalls, a Chinese merchant took the initiative to build a permanent structure in 1826. Over time, it evolved into the huge empo rium it is today. This yellow building has four wings joined as a square, with a courtyard and a fountain in the middle. A tall clock tower looms in the center of the com plex. Stacked pagoda-like roofs cover the bustle of commerce. Primarily a whole sale market, it is less touristy than Ben Thanh Market (see p70). A wide range of items and services are available here, from medicinal herbs and imported Chinese toys, to tailors and mechanics, and even caged birds. g Phung Son Pagoda 1408 3 Thang 2 St, District 11. Map 3 B4. Tel (08) 3969 3584. Open 5am–7pm daily. Also known as Go Pagoda, the present complex was built between 1802 and 1820 on the remains of an ancient site. Local lore and, more recently, archaeological findings sug gest h Giac Vien Pagoda 161/35/20 Lac Long Quan St, District 11. Map 3 A4. Open 7am–7pm daily. Dam Sen Water Park: 3 Hoa Binh St, District 11. Open 9am–6pm Mon–Sat, 8:30am–6pm Sun. & 7 0 ∑damsenwaterpark.com.vn Established by the monk Hai Tinh Giac Vien in 1744, this temple is located on the outskirts of the city, and is one of the most peaceful places around. Well known for its collection of more than 150 that this was once the site of a complex belonging to the Funan Empire (see p43). According to legend, at one time the temple was to be moved to a new site. But, as valuables were loaded upon a white elephant, the animal stumbled. This was taken as an omen for the pagoda to remain at its present location. The complex has the monks’ living quarters, while the main sanctuary is situated to the left and contains statues of various Buddhas. Connected to it is an atrium with images of Quan Am, Goddess of Mercy, and the Buddha, as well as a ceremonial drum and bronze bell. Tempting sweets in rows of glass jars, Binh Tay Market Woman praying before a statue at the entrance of Phung Son Pagoda wooden statues, the pagoda seems to serve mainly as a dedication to the departed. Several large, beautifully carved tombs lie to the right of the entrance, as do some photographs of the dead. A columbarium houses funerary urns. Although the interior is dark, strategically placed apertures in the roof allow the sunlight to pierce the gloom with an almost cinematic effect. The sanctuary’s altar is a riot of several Buddha statues in varying sizes, some gilded, others plain wood or ceramic. A large A Di Da Buddha sits at the back and two small Bodhisattvas are perched in front; more than a dozen sit between. A stepped conical structure with a multi tude of small Buddhas on every level fronts the altar, and is lit by fairy lights. On either side of the sanctuary are cloisters filled with bonsai trees and grottos. Close by is the Dam Sen Water Park, a welcome diversion, especially enjoyed by children. Water slides and rides, an artificial river and lake, and shady rest spots all make for a fun-filled day. The park also has landscaped gardens with lagoons, pagodas and several unusual animal sculptures. Swastika on portico, Giac Vien Pagoda A large gilded Buddha sits at an altar in the Giac Vien Pagoda 074-075_EW_VTN.indd 75 14/07/16 4:41 pm 7 6 VIETNAM AREA BY AREA For hotels and restaurants see pp236–7 and pp246–7 l Nui Ba Den 66 miles (106 km) NW of HCMC on Hwy 22; 10 miles (15 km) NE of Tay Ninh town. @ 4 to An Suong, then minibus to Tay Ninh Town. Tel (066) 382 6763. & - _ Nui Ba Den Festival (Jun). There are two major attractions in Tay Ninh province, namely Cao Dai Holy See (see pp78–9) and Nui Ba Den or the Black Lady Mountain. Despite the proximity of these sights, few visitors visit Nui Ba Den, as it is off the beaten track and cannot be reached directly by public transport. However, those who do make the trip will find it’s worth the effort. Despite the amusement park atmosphere at the base, the real attraction here is the lovely forest-clad mountain itself. Set amid shimmering lakes and a vib rant green landscape, Nui Ba Den rises above the surrounding plains at a steep 3,235 ft (986 m). The sum mit boasts stunning views, as well as a shrine to Black Lady, a pious woman named Huong, who died while defending her honor. Those who want the exer cise can hike up the mountain to visit the temple, but there is also a chair-lift for those who prefer a more relaxed mode of transport. Once a Vietcong camp, the mountain was bombed and sprayed with deadly chemi cals during the Vietnam War. Today, its caves, used as Buddhist sanctuaries, have regained their beauty. An annual festival honors the spirit of Nui Ba Den, with offerings, singing, and dancing. Reconstruction of a kitchen unit inside the Cu Chi Tunnels k Cu Chi Tunnels 25 miles (40 km) NW of HCMC. @ 13 to Cu Chi town, then by taxi. Tel (08) 3794 8768. Open 7:30am–5pm daily. & 8 The small town of Cu Chi is famous for its elaborate network of tunnels, located at a distance of around 9 miles (15 km) from the town itself. There are two different tunnel systems here. The one at Ben Dinh village was used by the Vietcong during the Vietnam War. The guided tour begins in a briefing room, where maps and charts display the extent of the network. Following an audio-visual presentation on tunnel history, visitors are led to an area set with faux booby traps and mannequins of Vietcong fighters. Close by are trapdoors that lead down into narrow tunnels. Although these have been widened to accommodate Western visitors, many still find them claustrophobic. Deep down in the depths, the chambers have been restored to the way they might have been at the time of war, with beds, stoves, and caches of ammunition. The second set of tunnels is at Ben Duoc. Created mainly for tourism purposes, the tunnels here are better equip ped than the actual ones used by the Vietcong. Cu Chi town is known for its shooting galleries, but there is also a memo rial pagoda, which features murals and a striking sculpture in the shape of a tear. The rather plain war cemeteries all over the area can be seen from the road. A large, rotund statue holding a cigarette at the base of Nui Ba Den One Pillar Pagoda emerging from the waters of a lotus pond jOne Pillar Pagoda of Thu Duc 100 Dang Van Bi St, Thu Duc District. Tel (08) 3896 0780. Open sunrise–sunset daily. This little pagoda, based on the earlier Lien Phai Pagoda in Hanoi (see p167), was built by monks who fled from there after the country was partitioned in 1954. During the Vietnam War (see pp48–9), the temple was used by the Vietcong as an undercover camp. Despite President Diem’s efforts to destroy the pagoda, local support pro vided by the monks kept the structure safe and intact. Like its Hanoi counterpart, the building can be seen rising from the middle of a lotus pond. A narrow staircase leads from the pond’s edge to the porch-like entrance. The façade has many windows, providing an almost unbroken 360-degree view. The interior is simple, with a low altar. 076-077_EW_VTN.indd 76 14/07/16 4:41 pm HO CHI MINH CITY 7 7 Tunnel Complexes “Tunnel rats” was the nickname given to the special teams of US soldiers deployed for enter ing and disabling the tunnels. They wore masks as protection when releasing gases in the tunnels to drive out the Vietnamese. Cramped and narrow passageways were made as tight and constricted as possible so that the larger American soldiers would find it difficult to pass through the tunnels. Ingenious booby traps, using everything from bamboo and iron staves to explosi ves, made the tunnels potential death traps for the unwary. Tunnel entrances were so small and well camouflaged with leaves and branches that they were often invisible to enemy eyes. One method attempted by the Americans to find them was by using stethoscopes to listen to subterranean activity. Anatomy of the Tunnel System While most tunnels were fairly small and simple, the major ones had three levels, and could be up to 33 ft (10 m) deep. Nonetheless, they were hot, cramped, and damp, making life underground difficult and unbearable. Underwater entrance Well-hidden firing posts helped the Vietnamese shoot at the enemy and then disappear. Air-raid shelters, located at the lowest level of the tunnels, protected the Vietnamese from intense bombing. Bunker for strategy and planning Ammunition dump A cooking area used highly creative ways to keep smoke from rising to the surface. The infirmary was not only a place to treat the wounded; many babies were also born here. Elaborate tunnel complexes, such as those at Cu Chi and Vinh Moc (see p154), have been used by the Vietnamese for centuries. The tunnels were a key part of guerilla warfare during the Vietnam War (see pp48–9), and played a major role in defeating American soldiers. Claimed to extend more than 125 miles (201 km), the tunnels were dug by local people using shovels. Built at many levels, they had living spaces, kitchens, and clinics. Here, the Vietnamese could escape bombings, hide from the enemy, and mount surprise attacks. The American soldiers knew of the tunnels, and used infrared imaging and sniffer dogs in their search for them. They never quite succeeded in finding them since the tunnels were rerouted and enlarged to avoid detection. 076-077_EW_VTN.indd 77 14/07/16 4:41 pm z Cao Dai Holy See As the center of Cao Dai, a religion founded in 1926 comprising a mixture of many Asian beliefs (see p27), this vast complex draws nearly three million worshippers. The main attraction here is the Great Divine Temple – a massive structure that reflects an unusual mix of Asian and Europ ean architectural elements. Amid the vibrant pinks, greens, and yellows of the decor are carvings of writh ing serpents and dragons, and a multitude of Divine Eyes gazing from all direc tions. The prayer services, attended by hundreds of clergy in colorful robes, are held everyday and are a spectacular sight. 7 8 VIETNAM AREA BY AREA For hotels and restaurants see pp236–7 and pp246–7 Maitreya Buddha Dominating the central tower of the temple’s front façade is a statue of the Buddha, reflecting the Cao Dai reverence for Buddhism. Colorful dragon motifs adorn the temple’s columns Prayer Hall This long and garishly colored hall is split into nine levels, repre senting the nine steps to heaven. Elaborately carved columns and windows featuring the Divine Eye line the passage on either side. Tomb of Ho Phap KEY 1 Intricate carvings adorn the pillars 2 Statues of the Cao Dai pantheon, including Jesus, the Buddha, and Confucius, dominate the area above the altar. 3 Prayer hall 078-079_EW_VTN.indd 78 14/07/16 4:41 pm HO CHI MINH CITY 7 9 Plan of Cao Dai Holy See . Altar of the Eye The all-seeing Divine Eye, the symbol of Cao Dai, is painted on a large, star- speckled blue globe that adorns the main altar. Decorated with clouds and stars, the dome above represents the achievement of heaven. Vibrant Architecture The combination of bright colors, ornate carvings, dragon and lotus motifs, and other highly varied elements make this temple one of Vietnam’s most photographed structures. Key Area illustrated Key List of Sites 1 Great Divine Temple 2 Holy Mother’s Temple 3 Tomb of Ho Phap 4 Amphitheater 5 Meditation Room 6 Public Works 7 Weaving House 8 Information Hall 9 Pope’s Office 0 Lady Cardinal’s Office . Phan Cong Tac One of the founders of Cao Daism, Phan Cong Tac was the chief medium, with the ability to communicate with the holy spirits during seances. . The Three Saints A mural depicts the three Cao Dai saints, Chinese leader Sun Yat Sen, French poet Victor Hugo, and Vietnamese poet Nguyen Binh Khiem as earthly sig natories to “Third Alliance Between God and Man.” Great Divine Temple The spiritual centerpiece of the Cao Dai complex, this temple was built between 1933 and 1955. Its vividly decorated three-tiered roof, stainedglass windows, and kaleido scope of colors make for an unusual, striking building. The presence of the all-seeing Divine Eye represents supreme knowledge and wisdom. VISITORS’ CHECKLIST Practical Information Long Hoa Village, 2.5 miles (4 km) E of Tay Ninh; 59 miles (96 km) NW of HCMC. n Tay Ninh Tourist, 210B 30 Thang 4 St, Tay Ninh, (066) 382 2376. Open daily. Services: 6am, noon (the most crowded), 6pm, midnight. 078-079_EW_VTN.indd 79 14/07/16 4:41 pm 8 0 VIETNAM AREA BY AREA For hotels and restaurants see pp236–7 and pp246–7 c Long Hai 81 miles (130 km) E of HCMC on Hwy 19; 30 miles (40 km) NE of Vung Tau. @ from HCMC. n Vung Tau Tourist, 33 Tran Hung Dao St, (064) 385 7527. _ Fisherman’s Festival (Feb/Mar). While the two cities grew, the stretch of coastline between Vung Tau and Phan Thiet was virtually deserted but a number of large resorts have now taken up residence. Home to the small town of Long Hai, this area is now rather exa ggeratedly referred to as Vietnam’s Riviera. None theless, the beaches are rela tively unspoiled, prices are low, seafood is fresh, and the atmos phere is very relaxed. A point of interest near Long Hai is the Mo Co Temple, where hundreds of boats from all over the v Ho Coc Beach 118 miles (190 km) E of HCMC; 22 miles (36 km) NE of Long Hai. 0 - Ho Coc Beach’s relative seclusion is its best feature. While popu lar with the Vietnamese as a week end destination, there is little public transport, only a few accommodation options, and a handful of simple cafés and restaurants. The beach is superb, with miles of clean, white sand, studded here and there with massive boulders. Environs Ho Coc lies adjacent to the Binh Chau - Phuoc Buu Nature Reserve. The trees come right up to the beach, and several trails leading into the wooded area start from the sand itself. The preserve was once home to many large animals, but most have now been relocated for conser vation and safety purposes. Nevertheless, the x Vung Tau 81 miles (130 km) E of HCMC on Hwy 51. * 250,000. ~ helicopter from HCMC. @ 4 hydrofoil from HCMC. n Vung Tau Tourist, 33 Tran Hung Dao St, (064) 385 7527. ∑amthucvungtau.info Bach Dinh: 4 Tran Phu St. Tel (064) 385 2605. Open 7–11:30am, 1:30–5pm daily. & The peninsula town of Vung Tau was once a pristine beach resort, known by the French as Cap St Jacques. It is still a very popular seaside getaway, but now that it is devel oped and home to an offshore oil industry, the quality of the water and beaches has been somewhat affected. On week ends it is crowded, noisy, and expensive. During the week, however, it is quieter, and its proximity to Ho Chi Minh City makes it a conveni ent beach destination. The two main beaches here are Bai Truoc (Front Beach) on the west and the long and wide Bai Sau (Back Beach) on the east side of the South China Sea peninsula. Bai Truoc has the greater con cen tration of hotels, bars, and restau rants, while Bai Sau is less developed, and therefore cheaper and a much quieter place to stay. In the vicinity of Vung Tau, two promontories, Nui Lon (Big Mountain) and Nui Nho (Little Mountain), are both worth visiting for splendid views. Nui Nho features a giant statue of Jesus; visitors can climb up to the top in order to take in the scenery. Alternatively, take a cable car to the top of Nui Lon. Vung Tau Light house. located about a mile from the ferry landing also offers a superb vantage point. The local museum, Bach Dinh, or White Villa, was the residence of Emperor Thanh Thai while he was under house arrest by the French. Inside are many interest ing exhibits from the Chinese Qing Dynasty. The relics on display were salvaged from a 17thcentury shipwreck. Distinctive fishing boat, Long Hai Fishing boats at Vung Tau harbor, against a scenic mountain backdrop region converge during the Fisher man’s Festival. Farther east is one of Bao Dai’s villas, now the posh Anoasis Resort (see p237). The beach is pri vate, but a small fee allows full use of its facilities for the day. Although there is no direct public transport or hydrofoil from Vung Tau, the drive to Long Hai offers many worth while sights. A predominantly Catholic area, several charming churches line the highway, as do a num ber of interesting temples. Thatched shelter on a rock in the sands of Ho Coc Beach 080-081_EW_VTN.indd 80 14/07/16 4:41 pm HO CHI MINH CITY 8 1 Choppy South China Sea washing over large boulders, Ho Coc Beach b Binh Chau Hot Springs 93 miles (150 km) SE of HCMC; 31 miles (50 km) NE of Long Hai. n Binh Chau Hot Springs Resort, (064) 387 1131. & 0 - With more than a hundred natural hot springs reputed to be imbued with therapeutic properties, Binh Chau is not frequented merely by the rheumatic and arthritic. Although the mineralrich mud and hot springs are obviously the main attractions here, the place is an amuse ment center as well. The Binh Chau Hot Springs Resort here is now a popular holiday des tination, boasting a karaoke bar, tennis courts, and snooker tables. Pub lic and private facili ties for hot spring baths are on offer as well. The private baths are enclosed by wooden screens for dressing and over head cover ings for shade. These can accommo date two to ten people, and incur a higher charge than the public facilities. The pub lic baths have a swimming pool. The water averages 40 degrees C (104 degrees F) though some pools can reach a simmering 82 degrees C (180 degrees F). As enter tain ment, baskets of eggs are available for dunk ing into the pools to cook. People Javan Rhinoceros Of the huge number of species of fauna in Cat Tien National Park, few garnered as much concern as the Javan rhinoceros (Rhinoceros sondaicus). These magnificent beasts that once roamed the forests in large numbers, were nearly hunted out of existence in colonial times. Smaller in size than most rhinos, its skin was very pale, as a result of living under the thick tropical canopy. Sadly, the last Javan rhino was killed by poachers in Cat Tien National Park in 2010, and the species is officially extinct in the country. Vietnam is at the forefront of illegal trade in rhino horn which has led to the problem of rhino poaching in the country. preserve is still inhabited by several species of monkeys and birds. The greenery and tranquil surroundings are extreme ly soothing. Guides may be hired for walk ing tours for a small fee. n Cat Tien National Park 100 miles (160 km) NE of HCMC. @ from HCMC. Minibus with destination Dalat from Mien Dong bus station. The park is halfway. Tel (061) 366 9228. & 8 0 - ∑namcattien.vn Cat Tien is easily one of the most abundant, biologically diverse reserves of its kind. This is remarkable in light of the fact that it was subjected to sustained bom bardment by defoliants during the Vietnam War. Even further back in time, it was a place of pilgrimage, as evidenced by the discovery of ancient relig ious artifacts traced to both the Funan and Champa Empires (see p43). Today, this 277 sq miles (718 sq km) park is home to a wide range of flora and fauna. There are more than 1,600 varieties of plants, but new ones continue to be dis covered. The park where the nowextinct Javan rhinoceros lived continues to be the home of many other ani mals, including deer, elephants, and over 360 species of birds that attract birdwatchers from all over the world. Colonies of monkeys, including rare douc langurs, pop ulate the trees, while 440 species of butterfly flutter amid wild flowers. Not surprisingly, Cat Tien is one of the most pop ular adventure des tinations in Vietnam. Accommoda tions in the park are minimal but adequate, and are reached by crossing the Dong Nai River. can boil eggs in the hot springs as well. Large statues of chickens indi cate the spots where such a venture is possible. For a relaxing spa experience, thera peutic mud baths are also on offer here. Amid the springs are verdant marsh lands. There are also some wellmarked walking trails in the area where visitors can take a stroll. People boiling baskets of eggs, Binh Chau Hot Springs The rare Javan rhinoceros 080-081_EW_VTN.indd 81 14/07/16 4:41 pm HO CHI MINH CITY STREET FINDER Finding your way around the narrow streets and winding alleys of Ho Chi Minh City can be a challenging experience. The city is divided into 19 quan, or urban districts, and five suburban districts. Vietnamese addresses (see p279) are usually straightforward but they are more complicated in Ho Chi Minh City because the same street begins new numbering upon entering a new district. On the Street Finder, some words that are common in street names have been abbreviated, such as Nguyen, which appears as Ng. Note that in the south duong, meaning street, is usually added to the road name. Pho is added to the street name in the north. Scale of Maps 1–2, 3–4 Key to Street Finder Major sight Other sight Other building Train station Long-distance bus station Riverboat pier Tourist information Hospital Pagoda/temple Church Mosque 8 2 HO CHI MINH CITY STREET FINDER 0 kilometers 0 miles 1 1 0 meters 0 yards 500 500 Saigon River Ben Nghe Channel PHAN DINH PHUNG HAI BA TRUNG NAM KY KHOI NGHIA LE LOI LY THUONG KIET 3 THANG 2 NGUYEN THI MINH KHAI THAP MUOI BACH DANG PHAN DANG LUU NGUYEN VAN CU HAM NGHI TRAN HUNG DAO DIEN BIEN PHU VO THI SAU NGUYEN CHI THANH NGUYEN TRI PHUONG H O N G B A N G TRAN HUNG DAO 082-083_EW_VTN.indd 82 14/07/16 4:42 pm Street Finder Index A 3 Thang 2 1 B4, 4 E2 Alexandre De Rhode 2 D3 An Diem 4 F5 An Duong Vuong 4 F4 Au Co 3 A1 B Ba Hat 4 F2 Ba Huyen Thanh Quan 1 C4 Ba Le Chan 1 C1 Ba Trieu 4 D4 Ban Co 1 B5 Ben Ba Dinh 4 F5 Ben Bai Say 4 D5 Ben Binh Dong 4 E5 Ben Chuong 2 F5 Ben Van Don 2 F5 Binh Duong Thi Xa 3 B3 Binh Thoi 3 B3 Bui Thi Xuau 1 C5 Bui Vien 2 D5 C Cach Mang Thang Tam1 C4 Calmette 2 E5 Can Giuoc 4 E5 Cao Thang 1 B5 Cao Van Lau 3 C5 Chanh Hung 4 F5 Chau Van Liem 4 D4 Chu Manh Trinh 2 E2 Chu Van An 3 C5 Co Bac 2 E5 Co Dieu 4 D3 Co Giang 1 B1 D Dang Dung 1 C1 Dang Tat 1 C1 Dao Duy Tu 4 E3 De Tham 2 D5 Dien Bien Phu 1 D2 Dinh Cong Trang 1 C2 Dinh Tien Hoang 1 D1 Do Ngoc Thanh 4 D4 Do Thanh 1 B5 Doan Nhu Hai 2 F5 Dong Du 2 F3 Dong Khoi 2 F4 Dong Nai 4 E1 Duc Chinh 2 E5 G Go Cong 4 D5 H Ha Ton Quyen 3 C4 Hai Ba Trung 2 E3 Hai Thuong 4 D5 Hai Trieu 2 F4 Ham Nghi 2 F4 Han Hai Nguyen 3 B4 Han Thuyen 2 E3 Hau Giang 3 B5 Hem Au Co 3 A2 Hem Lac Long Quan 3 A2 Ho Bieu Chanh 1 A2 Ho Thung Mau 2 F4 Ho Xuan Huong 1 C4 Hoa Binh 3 A3 Hoa Hao 4 D3 Hoa Hung 1 A4 Hoang Dieu 2 F5 Hoang Le Kha 3 A5 Hoang Sa 2 D1 Hoc Lac 4 D5 Hong Bang 4 D4 Hung Phu 4 F5 Hung Vuong 4 F3 Huyen Tran Cong Chua 2 D4 Huynh Khuong Ninh 2 D1 Huynh Thuc Khang 2 E4 Huynh Tinh Cua 1 B2 Huynh Van Banh 1 A1 K Khuong Viet 3 A1 Kim Bien 4 D5 Ky Con 2 E5 Ky Dong 2 B3 L Lac Long Quan 3 A3 Lan Ong 4 E5 Lanh Binh Thang 3 B3 Le Cong Kieu 2 E5 Le Dai Hanh 3 C2 Le Duan 2 E2 Le Hong Phong 1 A5, 4 F1 Le Lai 2 D5 Le Loi 2 E4 Le Quang Sung 3 C5 Le Quoc Hung 2 F5 Le Quy Don 1 C3 Le Thanh Ton 2 F3 Le Thi Hong Gam 2 E5 Le Thi Rieng 2 D5 Le Van Si 1 A2 Lo Sieu 3 C3 Luong Huu Khanh 1 C5 Luong Nhu Hoc 4 E4 Ly Chinh Thang 1 B2 Ly Nam De 4 D3 Ly Thai To 4 F2 Ly Thuong Kiet 4 D2 Ly Tu Trong 2 E3 Ly Van Phuc 2 D1 M Mac Cuu 4 E5 Mac Hing Chi 2 D2 Mac Thi Buoi 2 F4 Mai Thi Luu 2 E1 Mai Xuan Thuong 3 B5 Me Linh 2 F1 Minh Phung 3 B4 N Nam Ky Khoi Nghia 1 B2 Nam Quoc Cang 1 C5 Ngo Duc Ke 2 F4 Ngo Gia Tu 4 F3 Ngo Nhan Tinh 4 D5 Ngo Quyen 4 F4 Ngo Thoi Nhiem 1 C4 Nguyen An Khuong 4 D5 Nguyen Binh Khiem 2 E1 Nguyen Chi Thanh 3 C4 Nguyen Cong Tru 2 F1, 2 E5 Nguyen Dinh Chi 3 A5 Nguyen Dinh Chieu 1 C4 Nguyen Dinh Chinh 1 A1 Nguyen Du 2 E3 Nguyen Duy Duong 4 F2 Nguyen Hai Tu 2 D1 Nguyen Hue 2 F4 Nguyen Huu Canh 1 B1 Nguyen Huu Cau 2 C1 Nguyen Kim 4 E3 Nguyen Ngoc Phuong 2 F1 Nguyen Phi Khanh 2 D1 Nguyen Son Ha 1 C5 Nguyen Tat Thanh 2 F5 Nguyen Thai Binh 2 E5 Nguyen Thai Hoc 2 D5 Nguyen Thi 4 D5 Nguyen Thi Dieu 1 C4 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai 1 C5 Nguyen Thi Nho 3 C4 Nguyen Thi Trang 4 F4 Nguyen Thien Thuat 1 B5 Nguyen Thong 1 B3 Nguyen Thuong Hien 1 B4 Nguyen Tieu La 4 E2 Nguyen Trai 4 E4 Nguyen Tri Phuong 4 F4 Nguyen Trung Ngan 2 F2 Nguyen Trung Truc 2 E4 Nguyen Truong To 2 F5 Nguyen Van Hai 1 C2 Nguyen Van Lac 2 F1 Nguyen Van Phu 3 A2 Nguyen Van Thu 2 D2 Nguyen Van Trang 2 D5 Nguyen Van Troi 1 A1 Nhat Tao 4 D3 O Ong Ich Khiem 3 A3 P Pasteur 2 D3 Ph B Chau 2 E4 Pham Dinh Ho 3 C5 Pham Hong Thai 2 D5 Pham Huu Chi 4 D4 Pham Ngoc Thach 1 C2 Pham Ngu Lao 2 D5 Pham Van Chanh 2 F1 Phan Dinh Phung 1 B1 Phan Ke Binh 2 D1 Phan Liem 2 D2 Phan Ngu 2 D1 Phan Ton 2 D1 Phan Van Kho 4 D5 Phu Cam 3 A5 Phu Dong Thien Vuong 4 E4 Phu Giao 3 C5 Phu Huu 3 C5 Phu Tho 3 A4 Phung Hung 4 D5 Phung Khac Hoan 2 D2 Phuoc Hung 4 F4 Q Quan Su 3 B3 S So 41 3 B4 Su Van Hanh 4 E1 Suong Nguyet Anh 1 C5 T Ta Uyen 3 C4 Tan Da 4 E4 Tan Hang 4 E5 Tan Hoa 3 A5 Tan Hung 4 D4 Tan Khai 4 D4 Tan Phuoc 4 E3 Tan Thanh 3 C4 Thach Thi Thanh 1 C1 Thai Van Lung 2 F3 Thanh Thai 4 E1 Thap Muoi 3 C5 Thi Sach 2 F3 Thien Phuoc 3 C1 Thu Khoa Huan 2 E4 Thuan Kieu 4 D4 To Hien Thanh 4 D1 Ton Duc Thang 2 F3 Ton That Dam 2 F4 Ton That Tung 1 C5 Tong Van Tran 3 A2 Tran Cao Van 2 D2 Tran Hung Dao 2 E5, 4 E5 Tran Huy Lieu 1 A1 Tran Khat Chan 1 C1 Tran Minh Quyen 1 B4, 4 F1 Tran Nhat Duat 1 C1 Tran Phien 3 B4 Tran Quang Dieu 1 A2 Tran Quang Khai 1 C1 Tran Quoc Thao 1 B3 Tran Quoc Toan 1 C2 Tran Quy 3 C4 Tran Van Kieu 4 F5 Tran Xuan Hoa 4 F4 Trang Tu 3 C5 Trieu Quang Phuc 4 E4 Trinh Dinh Trong 3 A1 Trinh Hoai Duc 4 D5 Truong Dinh 1 C3 Truong Sa 2 D1 Tu Giang 4 D5 Tu Xuong 1 C3 Tue Tinh 3 C3 Tung Thien Vuong 4 E5 U Uu Long 4 E5 Van Dat 2 F4 Van Kiep 4 E5 Van Nam 4 E5 Van Tuong 4 D5 Vinh Vien 4 D3 Vo Thi Sau 1 C3 Vo Van Tan 1 C5 Vu Chi Hieu 4 D5 X Xo Viet Nghe Tinh 2 E2 Xom Dat 3 B4 Xom Voi 3 C4 Y Yersin 2 E5 HO CHI MINH CITY STREET FINDER 8 3 082-083_EW_VTN.indd 83 14/07/16 4:42 pm DISTRICT 1 DISTRICT 10 DISTRICT 3 DISTRICT 4 PHU NHUAN DISTRICT LE VAN TAM PARK VAN HOA PARK SAIGON ZOO AND BOTANICAL GARDEN Hoa Lu Stadium Embassy of Russia Indian Embassy Tan Dinh Market Embassy of Spain German Embassy US Embassy Youth Cultural House Japanese Embassy Binh Dan Hospital Japanese Embassy Bitexco Financial Tower Tt Tai Mui Hong Hospital Thu Thiem Ferry Vietnam Quoc Tu Pagoda Dien Bien Phu Hospital Gia Lieu Hospital War Remnants Museum Nguyen Van Troi Market Y Hoc Dan Toc Hospital Ton Duc Thang Museum Tu Du Hospital Tan Dinh Church Embassy of Singapore Embassy of Thailand Canadian Embassy Malaysian Embassy Australian Nhi Dong Embassy Hospital Chinese Embassy Embassy of New Zealand French Embassy UK Embassy Cambodian Embassy Embassy of Laos Diamond Plaza and Cinema Caravelle Hotel Municipal People’s Theater Commitee Building Rex Hotel Notre Dame Cathedral General Post Office Vincom Towers Independence Palace Ben Thanh Market Mariamman Hindu Temple Vinh Nghiem Pagoda Museum of Vietnamese History Xa Loi Pagoda Ho Chi Minh Museum Fine Arts Museum Women’s Museum of Southern Vietnam Ho Chi Minh City Museum Saigon Center Galaxy Cinema Continental Hotel Jade Emperor Pagoda Saigon Railway Station Saigon River Thi Nghe Channel Thi Nghe Channel Calmette Bridge Mong Bridge Khanh Hoi Bridge Thi Nghe Bridge Dien Bien Phu Sat Bridge Bridge Bong Bridge Kieu Bridge Cong Ly Bridge Truong Minh Giang Bridge Tran Quang Dieu Bridge H O A N G S A H O A N G S A T R U O N G S A T R U O N G S A DO THANH NAM QUOC CANG TON THAT TUNG SUONG NGUYET ANH CO BAC D E T H AM BUI VIEN NG. VAN TRANG T R A N H U Y L I E U T R A N Q U A N G D I E U T R A N Q U A N G D I E U T R A N M I N H Q U Y E N PHAM VAN CHANH NGUYEN NGOC PHUONG NGYUEN CONG TRU N G U Y E N T R U N G N G A N PH B CHAU CAO THANG CO GIANG CO BAC H UYNH VAN BANH HUYNH V A N BAN H T R A N C A O V A N NG. VAN LAC M E L I N H LE THAN H TON LE THANH TON N G U Y E N D U N G U Y E N D U LY T U T R O N G L E T H A N H T O N T H A I V A N L U N G T H I S A C H P H A M N G O C T H A C H PHAM NGOC THACH ALEXANDRE DE RHODE M A I T H I L U U T R A N Q U A N G K H A I P H A N K E B I N H N G U Y E N P H I K H A N H N G . H U U C A U T R A N K H AT C H A N T R A N K H A N H D U N G U Y E N H U U CA N H TRAN N HAT DU D AT A N G D U N G TRAN QUY KHOACH DANG TAT B A L E C H A N THACH THI THANH D I N H C O N G T R A N G LY VAN PHUC PHAN NGU N G U Y E N V A N T H U MAC HING CHI M A C H I N G C H I P H U N G K H A C H O A N PHAN TON HUYNH KHUONG NINH P H A N L I E M LY C H I N H T H A N G LY C H I N H T H ANG LY C H I N H T H A N G TRAN QUOC TOAN NG. VAN H H AI UYNH TINH CUA T U X U O N G T U X U O N G H O X U A N H U O N G K Y D O N G N G U Y E N T H O N G T R A N Q U O C T H A O L E V A N S I T R A N Q U O C T H AO L E Q U Y D O N L E Q U Y D O N NGO THOI NHIEM NGO THOI NHIEM B A H U Y E N T H A N H Q U A N THANH QUAN B A H U Y E N N G U Y E N T H I D I E U V O V A N T A N B A N C O B A N C O NGUYEN SON HA N G U Y E N T H U O N G H I E N L U O N G H U U K H A N H L E T H I R I E N G BUI THI XUAU Y E R S I N NGUYEN CONG TRU N GU Y E N C O N G T R U T O N T H A T D A M D O N G K H O I D O N G K H O I N G U Y E N D U L E T H A N H T O N L E T H A N H T O N LY T U T R O N G N G U Y E N D U N G U Y E N D U HUYEN TRAN CONG CHUA THU KHOA HUAN N G U Y E N T R U N G T R U C N G U Y E N T H A I B I N H K Y C O N CALMETTE D U C C H I N H LE CONG KIEU L E T H I H O N G G A M H U Y N H T H U C K H AN G M A C T H I B U O I N GO D U C VA K E N DAT D O N G D U NGO DUC KE H A I T R I E U LY T U T R O N G B E N V A N DO N HO A N G D I E U LE QUOC HUNG NGUYEN TRUONG TO D O A N N H U H À I NGUYEN HUE NGUYEN HUE L E D U A N L E D U A N P A S T E U R P A S T E U R P A S T E U R H A M N G H I NGUYEN TAT THANH H O T H U N G M A U T O N D U C T H A N G B E N C H UO N G P H A M N G U L A O N G U Y E N T R A I T O N D U C T H A N G T O N D U C T H A N G D I N H T I E N H O A N G V O T H I S A U V O T H I S A U V O T H I S A U C AO T H A N G C A O T H A N G V O V A N T A N N G U Y E N B I N H K H I E M N G U Y E N B I N H K H I E M P H A M H O N G T H A I H A N T HUYE N N G U Y E N D I N H C H I N H H O B I E U C H A N H L E V A N S I H O A H U N G L E H O N G P H O N G T R U O N G D I N H T R U O N G D I N H T R U O N G D I N H T R U O N G D I N H L E L A I C H U M A N H T R I N H N G U Y E N H A I T U NGUYEN THIEN THUAT N G U Y E N T H A I H O N C G U Y E N D I N H C H I E U N G U Y E N D I N H C H I E U N G U Y E N D I N H C H I E U C A C H M A N G T H A N G T A M C A C H M A N G T H A N G T A M P H A N D I N H P H U N G H A I B A T R U N G H A I B A T R U N G D I E N B I E N P H U D I E N B I E N P H U D I E N B I E N P H U N G U Y E N T H I M I N H K H A I N G U Y E N T H I M I N H K H A I X O V I E T N G H E T I N H N G U Y E N V A N T R O I N A M K Y K H O I N G H I A N A M K Y K H O I N G H I A N A M K Y K H O I N G H I A T R A N H U N G D A O L E LO I 3 T H A N G 2 3 T H A N G 2 DISTRICT 1 DISTRICT 10 DISTRICT 3 DISTRICT 4 PHU NHUAN DISTRICT LE VAN TAM PARK VAN HOA PARK SAIGON ZOO AND BOTANICAL GARDEN Hoa Lu Stadium Embassy of Russia Indian Embassy Tan Dinh Market Embassy of Spain German Embassy US Embassy Youth Cultural House Japanese Embassy Binh Dan Hospital Japanese Embassy Bitexco Financial Tower Tt Tai Mui Hong Hospital Thu Thiem Ferry Vietnam Quoc Tu Pagoda Dien Bien Phu Hospital Gia Lieu Hospital War Remnants Museum Nguyen Van Troi Market Y Hoc Dan Toc Hospital Ton Duc Thang Museum Tu Du Hospital Tan Dinh Church Embassy of Singapore Embassy of Thailand Canadian Embassy Malaysian Embassy Australian Nhi Dong Embassy Hospital Chinese Embassy Embassy of New Zealand French Embassy UK Embassy Cambodian Embassy Embassy of Laos Diamond Plaza and Cinema Caravelle Hotel Municipal People’s Theater Commitee Building Rex Hotel Notre Dame Cathedral General Post Office Vincom Towers Independence Palace Ben Thanh Market Mariamman Hindu Temple Vinh Nghiem Pagoda Museum of Vietnamese History Xa Loi Pagoda Ho Chi Minh Museum Fine Arts Museum Women’s Museum of Southern Vietnam Ho Chi Minh City Museum Saigon Center Galaxy Cinema Continental Hotel Jade Emperor Pagoda Saigon Railway Station Saigon River Thi Nghe Channel Thi Nghe Channel Calmette Bridge Mong Bridge Khanh Hoi Bridge Thi Nghe Bridge Dien Bien Phu Sat Bridge Bridge Bong Bridge Kieu Bridge Cong Ly Bridge Truong Minh Giang Bridge Tran Quang Dieu Bridge H O A N G S A H O A N G S A T R U O N G S A T R U O N G S A DO THANH NAM QUOC CANG TON THAT TUNG SUONG NGUYET ANH CO BAC D E T H AM BUI VIEN NG. VAN TRANG T R A N H U Y L I E U T R A N Q U A N G D I E U T R A N Q U A N G D I E U T R A N M I N H Q U Y E N PHAM VAN CHANH NGUYEN NGOC PHUONG NGYUEN CONG TRU N G U Y E N T R U N G N G A N PH B CHAU CAO THANG CO GIANG CO BAC H UYNH VAN BANH HUYNH V A N BAN H T R A N C A O V A N NG. VAN LAC M E L I N H LE THAN H TON LE THANH TON N G U Y E N D U N G U Y E N D U LY T U T R O N G L E T H A N H T O N T H A I V A N L U N G T H I S A C H P H A M N G O C T H A C H PHAM NGOC THACH ALEXANDRE DE RHODE M A I T H I L U U T R A N Q U A N G K H A I P H A N K E B I N H N G U Y E N P H I K H A N H N G . H U U C A U T R A N K H AT C H A N T R A N K H A N H D U N G U Y E N H U U CA N H TRAN N HAT DU D AT A N G D U N G TRAN QUY KHOACH DANG TAT B A L E C H A N THACH THI THANH D I N H C O N G T R A N G LY VAN PHUC PHAN NGU N G U Y E N V A N T H U MAC HING CHI M A C H I N G C H I P H U N G K H A C H O A N PHAN TON HUYNH KHUONG NINH P H A N L I E M LY C H I N H T H A N G LY C H I N H T H ANG LY C H I N H T H A N G TRAN QUOC TOAN NG. VAN H H AI UYNH TINH CUA T U X U O N G T U X U O N G H O X U A N H U O N G K Y D O N G N G U Y E N T H O N G T R A N Q U O C T H A O L E V A N S I T R A N Q U O C T H AO L E Q U Y D O N L E Q U Y D O N NGO THOI NHIEM NGO THOI NHIEM B A H U Y E N T H A N H Q U A N THANH QUAN B A H U Y E N N G U Y E N T H I D I E U V O V A N T A N B A N C O B A N C O NGUYEN SON HA N G U Y E N T H U O N G H I E N L U O N G H U U K H A N H L E T H I R I E N G BUI THI XUAU Y E R S I N NGUYEN CONG TRU N GU Y E N C O N G T R U T O N T H A T D A M D O N G K H O I D O N G K H O I N G U Y E N D U L E T H A N H T O N L E T H A N H T O N LY T U T R O N G N G U Y E N D U N G U Y E N D U HUYEN TRAN CONG CHUA THU KHOA HUAN N G U Y E N T R U N G T R U C N G U Y E N T H A I B I N H K Y C O N CALMETTE D U C C H I N H LE CONG KIEU L E T H I H O N G G A M H U Y N H T H U C K H AN G M A C T H I B U O I N GO D U C VA K E N DAT D O N G D U NGO DUC KE H A I T R I E U LY T U T R O N G B E N V A N DO N HO A N G D I E U LE QUOC HUNG NGUYEN TRUONG TO D O A N N H U H À I NGUYEN HUE NGUYEN HUE L E D U A N L E D U A N P A S T E U R P A S T E U R P A S T E U R H A M N G H I NGUYEN TAT THANH H O T H U N G M A U T O N D U C T H A N G B E N C H UO N G P H A M N G U L A O N G U Y E N T R A I T O N D U C T H A N G T O N D U C T H A N G D I N H T I E N H O A N G V O T H I S A U V O T H I S A U V O T H I S A U C AO T H A N G C A O T H A N G V O V A N T A N N G U Y E N B I N H K H I E M N G U Y E N B I N H K H I E M P H A M H O N G T H A I H A N T HUYE N N G U Y E N D I N H C H I N H H O B I E U C H A N H L E V A N S I H O A H U N G L E H O N G P H O N G T R U O N G D I N H T R U O N G D I N H T R U O N G D I N H T R U O N G D I N H L E L A I C H U M A N H T R I N H N G U Y E N H A I T U NGUYEN THIEN THUAT N G U Y E N T H A I H O N C G U Y E N D I N H C H I E U N G U Y E N D I N H C H I E U N G U Y E N D I N H C H I E U C A C H M A N G T H A N G T A M C A C H M A N G T H A N G T A M P H A N D I N H P H U N G H A I B A T R U N G H A I B A T R U N G D I E N B I E N P H U D I E N B I E N P H U D I E N B I E N P H U N G U Y E N T H I M I N H K H A I N G U Y E N T H I M I N H K H A I X O V I E T N G H E T I N H N G U Y E N V A N T R O I N A M K Y K H O I N G H I A N A M K Y K H O I N G H I A N A M K Y K H O I N G H I A T R A N H U N G D A O L E LO I 3 T H A N G 2 3 T H A N G 2 084-085_EW_VTN.indd 84 14/07/16 4:37 pm DISTRICT 1 DISTRICT 10 DISTRICT 3 DISTRICT 4 PHU NHUAN DISTRICT LE VAN TAM PARK VAN HOA PARK SAIGON ZOO AND BOTANICAL GARDEN Hoa Lu Stadium Embassy of Russia Indian Embassy Tan Dinh Market Embassy of Spain German Embassy US Embassy Youth Cultural House Japanese Embassy Binh Dan Hospital Japanese Embassy Bitexco Financial Tower Tt Tai Mui Hong Hospital Thu Thiem Ferry Vietnam Quoc Tu Pagoda Dien Bien Phu Hospital Gia Lieu Hospital War Remnants Museum Nguyen Van Troi Market Y Hoc Dan Toc Hospital Ton Duc Thang Museum Tu Du Hospital Tan Dinh Church Embassy of Singapore Embassy of Thailand Canadian Embassy Malaysian Embassy Australian Nhi Dong Embassy Hospital Chinese Embassy Embassy of New Zealand French Embassy UK Embassy Cambodian Embassy Embassy of Laos Diamond Plaza and Cinema Caravelle Hotel Municipal People’s Theater Commitee Building Rex Hotel Notre Dame Cathedral General Post Office Vincom Towers Independence Palace Ben Thanh Market Mariamman Hindu Temple Vinh Nghiem Pagoda Museum of Vietnamese History Xa Loi Pagoda Ho Chi Minh Museum Fine Arts Museum Women’s Museum of Southern Vietnam Ho Chi Minh City Museum Saigon Center Galaxy Cinema Continental Hotel Jade Emperor Pagoda Saigon Railway Station Saigon River Thi Nghe Channel Thi Nghe Channel Calmette Bridge Mong Bridge Khanh Hoi Bridge Thi Nghe Bridge Dien Bien Phu Sat Bridge Bridge Bong Bridge Kieu Bridge Cong Ly Bridge Truong Minh Giang Bridge Tran Quang Dieu Bridge H O A N G S A H O A N G S A T R U O N G S A T R U O N G S A DO THANH NAM QUOC CANG TON THAT TUNG SUONG NGUYET ANH CO BAC D E T H AM BUI VIEN NG. VAN TRANG T R A N H U Y L I E U T R A N Q U A N G D I E U T R A N Q U A N G D I E U T R A N M I N H Q U Y E N PHAM VAN CHANH NGUYEN NGOC PHUONG NGYUEN CONG TRU N G U Y E N T R U N G N G A N PH B CHAU CAO THANG CO GIANG CO BAC H UYNH VAN BANH HUYNH V A N BAN H T R A N C A O V A N NG. VAN LAC M E L I N H LE THAN H TON LE THANH TON N G U Y E N D U N G U Y E N D U LY T U T R O N G L E T H A N H T O N T H A I V A N L U N G T H I S A C H P H A M N G O C T H A C H PHAM NGOC THACH ALEXANDRE DE RHODE M A I T H I L U U T R A N Q U A N G K H A I P H A N K E B I N H N G U Y E N P H I K H A N H N G . H U U C A U T R A N K H AT C H A N T R A N K H A N H D U N G U Y E N H U U CA N H TRAN N HAT DU D AT A N G D U N G TRAN QUY KHOACH DANG TAT B A L E C H A N THACH THI THANH D I N H C O N G T R A N G LY VAN PHUC PHAN NGU N G U Y E N V A N T H U MAC HING CHI M A C H I N G C H I P H U N G K H A C H O A N PHAN TON HUYNH KHUONG NINH P H A N L I E M LY C H I N H T H A N G LY C H I N H T H ANG LY C H I N H T H A N G TRAN QUOC TOAN NG. VAN H H AI UYNH TINH CUA T U X U O N G T U X U O N G H O X U A N H U O N G K Y D O N G N G U Y E N T H O N G T R A N Q U O C T H A O L E V A N S I T R A N Q U O C T H AO L E Q U Y D O N L E Q U Y D O N NGO THOI NHIEM NGO THOI NHIEM B A H U Y E N T H A N H Q U A N THANH QUAN B A H U Y E N N G U Y E N T H I D I E U V O V A N T A N B A N C O B A N C O NGUYEN SON HA N G U Y E N T H U O N G H I E N L U O N G H U U K H A N H L E T H I R I E N G BUI THI XUAU Y E R S I N NGUYEN CONG TRU N GU Y E N C O N G T R U T O N T H A T D A M D O N G K H O I D O N G K H O I N G U Y E N D U L E T H A N H T O N L E T H A N H T O N LY T U T R O N G N G U Y E N D U N G U Y E N D U HUYEN TRAN CONG CHUA THU KHOA HUAN N G U Y E N T R U N G T R U C N G U Y E N T H A I B I N H K Y C O N CALMETTE D U C C H I N H LE CONG KIEU L E T H I H O N G G A M H U Y N H T H U C K H AN G M A C T H I B U O I N GO D U C VA K E N DAT D O N G D U NGO DUC KE H A I T R I E U LY T U T R O N G B E N V A N DO N HO A N G D I E U LE QUOC HUNG NGUYEN TRUONG TO D O A N N H U H À I NGUYEN HUE NGUYEN HUE L E D U A N L E D U A N P A S T E U R P A S T E U R P A S T E U R H A M N G H I NGUYEN TAT THANH H O T H U N G M A U T O N D U C T H A N G B E N C H UO N G P H A M N G U L A O N G U Y E N T R A I T O N D U C T H A N G T O N D U C T H A N G D I N H T I E N H O A N G V O T H I S A U V O T H I S A U V O T H I S A U C AO T H A N G C A O T H A N G V O V A N T A N N G U Y E N B I N H K H I E M N G U Y E N B I N H K H I E M P H A M H O N G T H A I H A N T HUYE N N G U Y E N D I N H C H I N H H O B I E U C H A N H L E V A N S I H O A H U N G L E H O N G P H O N G T R U O N G D I N H T R U O N G D I N H T R U O N G D I N H T R U O N G D I N H L E L A I C H U M A N H T R I N H N G U Y E N H A I T U NGUYEN THIEN THUAT N G U Y E N T H A I H O N C G U Y E N D I N H C H I E U N G U Y E N D I N H C H I E U N G U Y E N D I N H C H I E U C A C H M A N G T H A N G T A M C A C H M A N G T H A N G T A M P H A N D I N H P H U N G H A I B A T R U N G H A I B A T R U N G D I E N B I E N P H U D I E N B I E N P H U D I E N B I E N P H U N G U Y E N T H I M I N H K H A I N G U Y E N T H I M I N H K H A I X O V I E T N G H E T I N H N G U Y E N V A N T R O I N A M K Y K H O I N G H I A N A M K Y K H O I N G H I A N A M K Y K H O I N G H I A T R A N H U N G D A O L E LO I 3 T H A N G 2 3 T H A N G 2 DISTRICT 1 DISTRICT 10 DISTRICT 3 DISTRICT 4 PHU NHUAN DISTRICT LE VAN TAM PARK VAN HOA PARK SAIGON ZOO AND BOTANICAL GARDEN Hoa Lu Stadium Embassy of Russia Indian Embassy Tan Dinh Market Embassy of Spain German Embassy US Embassy Youth Cultural House Japanese Embassy Binh Dan Hospital Japanese Embassy Bitexco Financial Tower Tt Tai Mui Hong Hospital Thu Thiem Ferry Vietnam Quoc Tu Pagoda Dien Bien Phu Hospital Gia Lieu Hospital War Remnants Museum Nguyen Van Troi Market Y Hoc Dan Toc Hospital Ton Duc Thang Museum Tu Du Hospital Tan Dinh Church Embassy of Singapore Embassy of Thailand Canadian Embassy Malaysian Embassy Australian Nhi Dong Embassy Hospital Chinese Embassy Embassy of New Zealand French Embassy UK Embassy Cambodian Embassy Embassy of Laos Diamond Plaza and Cinema Caravelle Hotel Municipal People’s Theater Commitee Building Rex Hotel Notre Dame Cathedral General Post Office Vincom Towers Independence Palace Ben Thanh Market Mariamman Hindu Temple Vinh Nghiem Pagoda Museum of Vietnamese History Xa Loi Pagoda Ho Chi Minh Museum Fine Arts Museum Women’s Museum of Southern Vietnam Ho Chi Minh City Museum Saigon Center Galaxy Cinema Continental Hotel Jade Emperor Pagoda Saigon Railway Station Saigon River Thi Nghe Channel Thi Nghe Channel Calmette Bridge Mong Bridge Khanh Hoi Bridge Thi Nghe Bridge Dien Bien Phu Sat Bridge Bridge Bong Bridge Kieu Bridge Cong Ly Bridge Truong Minh Giang Bridge Tran Quang Dieu Bridge H O A N G S A H O A N G S A T R U O N G S A T R U O N G S A DO THANH NAM QUOC CANG TON THAT TUNG SUONG NGUYET ANH CO BAC D E T H AM BUI VIEN NG. VAN TRANG T R A N H U Y L I E U T R A N Q U A N G D I E U T R A N Q U A N G D I E U T R A N M I N H Q U Y E N PHAM VAN CHANH NGUYEN NGOC PHUONG NGYUEN CONG TRU N G U Y E N T R U N G N G A N PH B CHAU CAO THANG CO GIANG CO BAC H UYNH VAN BANH HUYNH V A N BAN H T R A N C A O V A N NG. VAN LAC M E L I N H LE THAN H TON LE THANH TON N G U Y E N D U N G U Y E N D U LY T U T R O N G L E T H A N H T O N T H A I V A N L U N G T H I S A C H P H A M N G O C T H A C H PHAM NGOC THACH ALEXANDRE DE RHODE M A I T H I L U U T R A N Q U A N G K H A I P H A N K E B I N H N G U Y E N P H I K H A N H N G . H U U C A U T R A N K H AT C H A N T R A N K H A N H D U N G U Y E N H U U CA N H TRAN N HAT DU D AT A N G D U N G TRAN QUY KHOACH DANG TAT B A L E C H A N THACH THI THANH D I N H C O N G T R A N G LY VAN PHUC PHAN NGU N G U Y E N V A N T H U MAC HING CHI M A C H I N G C H I P H U N G K H A C H O A N PHAN TON HUYNH KHUONG NINH P H A N L I E M LY C H I N H T H A N G LY C H I N H T H ANG LY C H I N H T H A N G TRAN QUOC TOAN NG. VAN H H AI UYNH TINH CUA T U X U O N G T U X U O N G H O X U A N H U O N G K Y D O N G N G U Y E N T H O N G T R A N Q U O C T H A O L E V A N S I T R A N Q U O C T H AO L E Q U Y D O N L E Q U Y D O N NGO THOI NHIEM NGO THOI NHIEM B A H U Y E N T H A N H Q U A N THANH QUAN B A H U Y E N N G U Y E N T H I D I E U V O V A N T A N B A N C O B A N C O NGUYEN SON HA N G U Y E N T H U O N G H I E N L U O N G H U U K H A N H L E T H I R I E N G BUI THI XUAU Y E R S I N NGUYEN CONG TRU N GU Y E N C O N G T R U T O N T H A T D A M D O N G K H O I D O N G K H O I N G U Y E N D U L E T H A N H T O N L E T H A N H T O N LY T U T R O N G N G U Y E N D U N G U Y E N D U HUYEN TRAN CONG CHUA THU KHOA HUAN N G U Y E N T R U N G T R U C N G U Y E N T H A I B I N H K Y C O N CALMETTE D U C C H I N H LE CONG KIEU L E T H I H O N G G A M H U Y N H T H U C K H AN G M A C T H I B U O I N GO D U C VA K E N DAT D O N G D U NGO DUC KE H A I T R I E U LY T U T R O N G B E N V A N DO N HO A N G D I E U LE QUOC HUNG NGUYEN TRUONG TO D O A N N H U H À I NGUYEN HUE NGUYEN HUE L E D U A N L E D U A N P A S T E U R P A S T E U R P A S T E U R H A M N G H I NGUYEN TAT THANH H O T H U N G M A U T O N D U C T H A N G B E N C H UO N G P H A M N G U L A O N G U Y E N T R A I T O N D U C T H A N G T O N D U C T H A N G D I N H T I E N H O A N G V O T H I S A U V O T H I S A U V O T H I S A U C AO T H A N G C A O T H A N G V O V A N T A N N G U Y E N B I N H K H I E M N G U Y E N B I N H K H I E M P H A M H O N G T H A I H A N T HUYE N N G U Y E N D I N H C H I N H H O B I E U C H A N H L E V A N S I H O A H U N G L E H O N G P H O N G T R U O N G D I N H T R U O N G D I N H T R U O N G D I N H T R U O N G D I N H L E L A I C H U M A N H T R I N H N G U Y E N H A I T U NGUYEN THIEN THUAT N G U Y E N T H A I H O N C G U Y E N D I N H C H I E U N G U Y E N D I N H C H I E U N G U Y E N D I N H C H I E U C A C H M A N G T H A N G T A M C A C H M A N G T H A N G T A M P H A N D I N H P H U N G H A I B A T R U N G H A I B A T R U N G D I E N B I E N P H U D I E N B I E N P H U D I E N B I E N P H U N G U Y E N T H I M I N H K H A I N G U Y E N T H I M I N H K H A I X O V I E T N G H E T I N H N G U Y E N V A N T R O I N A M K Y K H O I N G H I A N A M K Y K H O I N G H I A N A M K Y K H O I N G H I A T R A N H U N G D A O L E LO I 3 T H A N G 2 3 T H A N G 2 084-085_EW_VTN.indd 85 14/07/16 4:37 pm DISTRICT 11 TAN PHU DISTRICT DISTRICT 10 DISTRICT 6 DISTRICT 5 DISTRICT 8 TAN BINH DISTRICT Tau Hu Channel Lo Gom Channel Ho Ky Hoa Park Saigon Race Track Cha Va Bridge C O N G C H U A N G O C H A N C O N G C H U A N G T H A T H I E P N H A T T A O N H A T T A O T O N T R A N V A N K I E U T R A N V A N K I E U B E N B I N H D O N M G AC CUU VAN NAM T U N G T H I E N V U O N G U U L O N G NGOC UYEN B E N B A D I N H VAN KIEP CAN GI UOC NG. THI TRANG N G O Q U Y E N N G O Q U Y E N NGO QUYEN S U V A N H A N H SU VAN HANH SU VAN HANH T O H I E N T H A N H L U G I A T H I E N P H U O C N G U Y E N T H I N H O O N G D I A D O I C U N G Q U A N S U M I N H P H U N G M I N H P H U N G B I N H T H O I B I N H T H O I L O S I E U L O S I E U D I N H N G H E L A C LO N G Q U A N X O M D A T X O M D A T HOANG LE KHA BEN LO GOM PHU LAM N G U Y E N D I N H C H I P H U C A M M I N H P H U N G L E Q U A N G S U N G P H A M D I N H H O N G U Y E N T H I N H O NGUYEN THI NHO NGO NHAN TINH P H U H U U T A U Y E N T A U Y E N P H U G I AO H A T O N Q U Y E N H O C L A C C H U V A N A N T R A N G T U N G U Y E N T R A I N G U Y E N T R A I N G U Y E N T R A I N G U Y E N D U Y D U O N G L E H O N G P H O N G LE HONG PHONG D O N G N A I B A H A T B A H A T N G U Y E N T R I P H U O N G T H A N H T H A I T H A N H T H A I N G U Y E N K I M N G U Y E N K I M D A O D U Y T U N G U Y E N C H I T H A N H L Y N A M D E V I N H V I E N V I N H V I E N V I N H V I E N NGUYEN TIEU LA N G U Y E N T I E U L A B A H A T B A H A T PHUOC HUNG XUAN HOA TRAN TAN HANG AN DIEM TAN DA THIEN VUONG PHU DONG P H A M H U U C H I B A T R I E U T R A N P H I E N L O S I E U S O 4 1 T A N T H A N H TA N T H A N H T H U A N K I E U L E D A I H A N H C O D I E U C O D I E U TRIEU QUANG PHUC T A N H U N G T R A N Q U Y H O A H A O TRINH HOAI DUC D O N G O C T H A N H D O N G O C T H A N H T A N K H A I T U G I A N G T U G I A N G NGUYEN THI B E N B A I S A Y KIM BIEN P H U N G H U N G L U O N G N H U H O C LE THI BACH CAT LE THI BACH CAT TU E T I N H B I N H D U O N G T H I X A T O N G V A N T R A N HEM LAC LONG QUAN N G U Y E N V A N P H U T R I N H D I N H TR O N G L E N G A H A N H A I N G U Y E N T A N P H U O C TRAN MINH QUYEN NGUYEN TRI PHUONG NG. AN KHUONG VU CHI H I E U P H A N V A N K H O H O A H AO H O A H AO K H U O N G V I E T X O M V O I L A N O N G H A I T H U O N G L E Q U A N G S U N G H E M A U C O HOA N G X U A N N H I MAI XUAN T HUONG C AO V A N L A U CONG GO CHANH HUNG HUNG PHU VAN TUONG Cha Tam Church P H U T H O L A C L O N G Q U A N L A C L O N G Q U A N L A C LON G QU A N TAN HOA H O A B I N H O N G I C H K H I E M L A N H B I N H T H A N G LANH BINH THANG L Y T H A I T O C H A U VA N L I E M N G U Y E N C H I T H A N H L E D A I H A N H A U C O A U C O L Y T H U O N G K I E T L Y T H U O N G K I E T 3 T H A N G 2 3 T H A N G 2 3 T H A N G 2 3 T H A N G 2 N G O G I A T U H O N G B A N G H O N G B A N G H U N G V U O N G H O N G B A N G H A U G I A N G T H A P M U O I T R A N H U N G D A O A N D U O N G V U O N G Cholon Bus Station Children’s I Hospital Institute of Polytechnic Trung Vuong Market Thiec Market Cho Ray Hospital Nhat Tao Market Nguyen Tn Phuong Market Quan Y 7A Hospital Nguyen Tri Phuong Hospital Kim Bien Market Pham Ngoc Thach Hospital Hung Vuong Hospital Giac Lam Pagoda Vietnam Quoc Tu Pagoda DH Kv Thuat University Sung Duc Pagoda An Quang Pagoda Trung Vuong Hospital Tim Hospital Nam Pho Da Pagoda Thien Hau Pagoda Cholon Mosque Nghia An Hoi Quan Pagoda Phung Son Pagoda Binh Tay Market Giac Vien Pagoda Institute of Sport Training Dai Hoc Y-Duoc Uni. for Medicine & Pharmacy Thong Nhat Stadium 115 Hospital Khan Van Nam Vien Pagoda Quan Am Pagoda Nga Sau Church Phuoc An Hoi Quan Pagoda DISTRICT 11 TAN PHU DISTRICT DISTRICT 10 DISTRICT 6 DISTRICT 5 DISTRICT 8 TAN BINH DISTRICT Tau Hu Channel Lo Gom Channel Ho Ky Hoa Park Saigon Race Track Cha Va Bridge C O N G C H U A N G O C H A N C O N G C H U A N G T H A T H I E P N H A T T A O N H A T T A O T O N T R A N V A N K I E U T R A N V A N K I E U B E N B I N H D O N M G AC CUU VAN NAM T U N G T H I E N V U O N G U U L O N G NGOC UYEN B E N B A D I N H VAN KIEP CAN GI UOC NG. THI TRANG N G O Q U Y E N N G O Q U Y E N NGO QUYEN S U V A N H A N H SU VAN HANH SU VAN HANH T O H I E N T H A N H L U G I A T H I E N P H U O C N G U Y E N T H I N H O O N G D I A D O I C U N G Q U A N S U M I N H P H U N G M I N H P H U N G B I N H T H O I B I N H T H O I L O S I E U L O S I E U D I N H N G H E L A C LO N G Q U A N X O M D A T X O M D A T HOANG LE KHA BEN LO GOM PHU LAM N G U Y E N D I N H C H I P H U C A M M I N H P H U N G L E Q U A N G S U N G P H A M D I N H H O N G U Y E N T H I N H O NGUYEN THI NHO NGO NHAN TINH P H U H U U T A U Y E N T A U Y E N P H U G I AO H A T O N Q U Y E N H O C L A C C H U V A N A N T R A N G T U N G U Y E N T R A I N G U Y E N T R A I N G U Y E N T R A I N G U Y E N D U Y D U O N G L E H O N G P H O N G LE HONG PHONG D O N G N A I B A H A T B A H A T N G U Y E N T R I P H U O N G T H A N H T H A I T H A N H T H A I N G U Y E N K I M N G U Y E N K I M D A O D U Y T U N G U Y E N C H I T H A N H L Y N A M D E V I N H V I E N V I N H V I E N V I N H V I E N NGUYEN TIEU LA N G U Y E N T I E U L A B A H A T B A H A T PHUOC HUNG XUAN HOA TRAN TAN HANG AN DIEM TAN DA THIEN VUONG PHU DON P H G A M H U U C H I B A T R I E U T R A N P H I E N L O S I E U S O 4 1 T A N T H A N H TA N T H A N H T H U A N K I E U L E D A I H A N H C O D I E U C O D I E U TRIEU QUANG PHUC T A N H U N G T R A N Q U Y H O A H A O TRINH HOAI DUC D O N G O C T H A N H D O N G O C T H A N H T A N K H A I T U G I A N G T U G I A N G NGUYEN THI B E N B A I S A Y KIM BIEN P H U N G H U N G L U O N G N H U H O C LE THI BACH CAT LE THI BACH CAT TU E T I N H B I N H D U O N G T H I X A T O N G V A N T R A N HEM LAC LONG QUAN N G U Y E N V A N P H U T R I N H D I N H TR O N G L E N G A H A N H A I N G U Y E N T A N P H U O C TRAN MINH QUYEN NGUYEN TRI PHUONG NG. AN KHUONG VU CHI H I E U P H A N V A N K H O H O A H AO H O A H AO K H U O N G V I E T X O M V O I L A N O N G H A I T H U O N G L E Q U A N G S U N G H E M A U C O HOA N G X U A N N H I MAI XUAN T HUONG C AO V A N L A U CONG GO CHANH HUNG HUNG PHU VAN TUONG Cha Tam Church P H U T H O L A C L O N G Q U A N L A C L O N G Q U A N L A C LON G QU A N TAN HOA H O A B I N H O N G I C H K H I E M L A N H B I N H T H A N G LANH BINH THANG L Y T H A I T O C H A U VA N L I E M N G U Y E N C H I T H A N H L E D A I H A N H A U C O A U C O L Y T H U O N G K I E T L Y T H U O N G K I E T 3 T H A N G 2 3 T H A N G 2 3 T H A N G 2 3 T H A N G 2 N G O G I A T U H O N G B A N G H O N G B A N G H U N G V U O N G H O N G B A N G H A U G I A N G T H A P M U O I T R A N H U N G D A O A N D U O N G V U O N G Cholon Bus Station Children’s I Hospital Institute of Polytechnic Trung Vuong Market Thiec Market Cho Ray Hospital Nhat Tao Market Nguyen Tn Phuong Market Quan Y 7A Hospital Nguyen Tri Phuong Hospital Kim Bien Market Pham Ngoc Thach Hospital Hung Vuong Hospital Giac Lam Pagoda Vietnam Quoc Tu Pagoda DH Kv Thuat University Sung Duc Pagoda An Quang Pagoda Trung Vuong Hospital Tim Hospital Nam Pho Da Pagoda Thien Hau Pagoda Cholon Mosque Nghia An Hoi Quan Pagoda Phung Son Pagoda Binh Tay Market Giac Vien Pagoda Institute of Sport Training Dai Hoc Y-Duoc Uni. for Medicine & Pharmacy Thong Nhat Stadium 115 Hospital Khan Van Nam Vien Pagoda Quan Am Pagoda Nga Sau Church Phuoc An Hoi Quan Pagoda 086-087_EW_VTN.indd 86 17/07/14 3:36 PM DISTRICT 11 TAN PHU DISTRICT DISTRICT 10 DISTRICT 6 DISTRICT 5 DISTRICT 8 TAN BINH DISTRICT Tau Hu Channel Lo Gom Channel Ho Ky Hoa Park Saigon Race Track Cha Va Bridge C O N G C H U A N G O C H A N C O N G C H U A N G T H A T H I E P N H A T T A O N H A T T A O T O N T R A N V A N K I E U T R A N V A N K I E U B E N B I N H D O N M G AC CUU VAN NAM T U N G T H I E N V U O N G U U L O N G NGOC UYEN B E N B A D I N H VAN KIEP CAN GI UOC NG. THI TRANG N G O Q U Y E N N G O Q U Y E N NGO QUYEN S U V A N H A N H SU VAN HANH SU VAN HANH T O H I E N T H A N H L U G I A T H I E N P H U O C N G U Y E N T H I N H O O N G D I A D O I C U N G Q U A N S U M I N H P H U N G M I N H P H U N G B I N H T H O I B I N H T H O I L O S I E U L O S I E U D I N H N G H E L A C LO N G Q U A N X O M D A T X O M D A T HOANG LE KHA BEN LO GOM PHU LAM N G U Y E N D I N H C H I P H U C A M M I N H P H U N G L E Q U A N G S U N G P H A M D I N H H O N G U Y E N T H I N H O NGUYEN THI NHO NGO NHAN TINH P H U H U U T A U Y E N T A U Y E N P H U G I AO H A T O N Q U Y E N H O C L A C C H U V A N A N T R A N G T U N G U Y E N T R A I N G U Y E N T R A I N G U Y E N T R A I N G U Y E N D U Y D U O N G L E H O N G P H O N G LE HONG PHONG D O N G N A I B A H A T B A H A T N G U Y E N T R I P H U O N G T H A N H T H A I T H A N H T H A I N G U Y E N K I M N G U Y E N K I M D A O D U Y T U N G U Y E N C H I T H A N H L Y N A M D E V I N H V I E N V I N H V I E N V I N H V I E N NGUYEN TIEU LA N G U Y E N T I E U L A B A H A T B A H A T PHUOC HUNG XUAN HOA TRAN TAN HANG AN DIEM TAN DA THIEN VUONG PHU DONG P H A M H U U C H I B A T R I E U T R A N P H I E N L O S I E U S O 4 1 T A N T H A N H TA N T H A N H T H U A N K I E U L E D A I H A N H C O D I E U C O D I E U TRIEU QUANG PHUC T A N H U N G T R A N Q U Y H O A H A O TRINH HOAI DUC D O N G O C T H A N H D O N G O C T H A N H T A N K H A I T U G I A N G T U G I A N G NGUYEN THI B E N B A I S A Y KIM BIEN P H U N G H U N G L U O N G N H U H O C LE THI BACH CAT LE THI BACH CAT TU E T I N H B I N H D U O N G T H I X A T O N G V A N T R A N HEM LAC LONG QUAN N G U Y E N V A N P H U T R I N H D I N H TR O N G L E N G A H A N H A I N G U Y E N T A N P H U O C TRAN MINH QUYEN NGUYEN TRI PHUONG NG. AN KHUONG VU CHI H I E U P H A N V A N K H O H O A H AO H O A H AO K H U O N G V I E T X O M V O I L A N O N G H A I T H U O N G L E Q U A N G S U N G H E M A U C O HOA N G X U A N N H I MAI XUAN T HUONG C AO V A N L A U CONG GO CHANH HUNG HUNG PHU VAN TUONG Cha Tam Church P H U T H O L A C L O N G Q U A N L A C L O N G Q U A N L A C LON G QU A N TAN HOA H O A B I N H O N G I C H K H I E M L A N H B I N H T H A N G LANH BINH THANG L Y T H A I T O C H A U VA N L I E M N G U Y E N C H I T H A N H L E D A I H A N H A U C O A U C O L Y T H U O N G K I E T L Y T H U O N G K I E T 3 T H A N G 2 3 T H A N G 2 3 T H A N G 2 3 T H A N G 2 N G O G I A T U H O N G B A N G H O N G B A N G H U N G V U O N G H O N G B A N G H A U G I A N G T H A P M U O I T R A N H U N G D A O A N D U O N G V U O N G Cholon Bus Station Children’s I Hospital Institute of Polytechnic Trung Vuong Market Thiec Market Cho Ray Hospital Nhat Tao Market Nguyen Tn Phuong Market Quan Y 7A Hospital Nguyen Tri Phuong Hospital Kim Bien Market Pham Ngoc Thach Hospital Hung Vuong Hospital Giac Lam Pagoda Vietnam Quoc Tu Pagoda DH Kv Thuat University Sung Duc Pagoda An Quang Pagoda Trung Vuong Hospital Tim Hospital Nam Pho Da Pagoda Thien Hau Pagoda Cholon Mosque Nghia An Hoi Quan Pagoda Phung Son Pagoda Binh Tay Market Giac Vien Pagoda Institute of Sport Training Dai Hoc Y-Duoc Uni. for Medicine & Pharmacy Thong Nhat Stadium 115 Hospital Khan Van Nam Vien Pagoda Quan Am Pagoda Nga Sau Church Phuoc An Hoi Quan Pagoda DISTRICT 11 TAN PHU DISTRICT DISTRICT 10 DISTRICT 6 DISTRICT 5 DISTRICT 8 TAN BINH DISTRICT Tau Hu Channel Lo Gom Channel Ho Ky Hoa Park Saigon Race Track Cha Va Bridge C O N G C H U A N G O C H A N C O N G C H U A N G T H A T H I E P N H A T T A O N H A T T A O T O N T R A N V A N K I E U T R A N V A N K I E U B E N B I N H D O N M G AC CUU VAN NAM T U N G T H I E N V U O N G U U L O N G NGOC UYEN B E N B A D I N H VAN KIEP CAN GI UOC NG. THI TRANG N G O Q U Y E N N G O Q U Y E N NGO QUYEN S U V A N H A N H SU VAN HANH SU VAN HANH T O H I E N T H A N H L U G I A T H I E N P H U O C N G U Y E N T H I N H O O N G D I A D O I C U N G Q U A N S U M I N H P H U N G M I N H P H U N G B I N H T H O I B I N H T H O I L O S I E U L O S I E U D I N H N G H E L A C LO N G Q U A N X O M D A T X O M D A T HOANG LE KHA BEN LO GOM PHU LAM N G U Y E N D I N H C H I P H U C A M M I N H P H U N G L E Q U A N G S U N G P H A M D I N H H O N G U Y E N T H I N H O NGUYEN THI NHO NGO NHAN TINH P H U H U U T A U Y E N T A U Y E N P H U G I AO H A T O N Q U Y E N H O C L A C C H U V A N A N T R A N G T U N G U Y E N T R A I N G U Y E N T R A I N G U Y E N T R A I N G U Y E N D U Y D U O N G L E H O N G P H O N G LE HONG PHONG D O N G N A I B A H A T B A H A T N G U Y E N T R I P H U O N G T H A N H T H A I T H A N H T H A I N G U Y E N K I M N G U Y E N K I M D A O D U Y T U N G U Y E N C H I T H A N H L Y N A M D E V I N H V I E N V I N H V I E N V I N H V I E N NGUYEN TIEU LA N G U Y E N T I E U L A B A H A T B A H A T PHUOC HUNG XUAN HOA TRAN TAN HANG AN DIEM TAN DA THIEN VUONG PHU DONG P H A M H U U C H I B A T R I E U T R A N P H I E N L O S I E U S O 4 1 T A N T H A N H TA N T H A N H T H U A N K I E U L E D A I H A N H C O D I E U C O D I E U TRIEU QUANG PHUC T A N H U N G T R A N Q U Y H O A H A O TRINH HOAI DUC D O N G O C T H A N H D O N G O C T H A N H T A N K H A I T U G I A N G T U G I A N G NGUYEN THI B E N B A I S A Y KIM BIEN P H U N G H U N G L U O N G N H U H O C LE THI BACH CAT LE THI BACH CAT TU E T I N H B I N H D U O N G T H I X A T O N G V A N T R A N HEM LAC LONG QUAN N G U Y E N V A N P H U T R I N H D I N H TR O N G L E N G A H A N H A I N G U Y E N T A N P H U O C TRAN MINH QUYEN NGUYEN TRI PHUONG NG. AN KHUONG VU CHI H I E U P H A N V A N K H O H O A H AO H O A H AO K H U O N G V I E T X O M V O I L A N O N G H A I T H U O N G L E Q U A N G S U N G H E M A U C O HOA N G X U A N N H I MAI XUAN T HUONG C AO V A N L A U CONG GO CHANH HUNG HUNG PHU VAN TUONG Cha Tam Church P H U T H O L A C L O N G Q U A N L A C L O N G Q U A N L A C LON G QU A N TAN HOA H O A B I N H O N G I C H K H I E M L A N H B I N H T H A N G LANH BINH THANG L Y T H A I T O C H A U VA N L I E M N G U Y E N C H I T H A N H L E D A I H A N H A U C O A U C O L Y T H U O N G K I E T L Y T H U O N G K I E T 3 T H A N G 2 3 T H A N G 2 3 T H A N G 2 3 T H A N G 2 N G O G I A T U H O N G B A N G H O N G B A N G H U N G V U O N G H O N G B A N G H A U G I A N G T H A P M U O I T R A N H U N G D A O A N D U O N G V U O N G Cholon Bus Station Children’s I Hospital Institute of Polytechnic Trung Vuong Market Thiec Market Cho Ray Hospital Nhat Tao Market Nguyen Tn Phuong Market Quan Y 7A Hospital Nguyen Tri Phuong Hospital Kim Bien Market Pham Ngoc Thach Hospital Hung Vuong Hospital Giac Lam Pagoda Vietnam Quoc Tu Pagoda DH Kv Thuat University Sung Duc Pagoda An Quang Pagoda Trung Vuong Hospital Tim Hospital Nam Pho Da Pagoda Thien Hau Pagoda Cholon Mosque Nghia An Hoi Quan Pagoda Phung Son Pagoda Binh Tay Market Giac Vien Pagoda Institute of Sport Training Dai Hoc Y-Duoc Uni. for Medicine & Pharmacy Thong Nhat Stadium 115 Hospital Khan Van Nam Vien Pagoda Quan Am Pagoda Nga Sau Church Phuoc An Hoi Quan Pagoda 086-087_EW_VTN.indd 87 17/07/14 3:36 PM 088-089_EW_VTN.indd 88 14/07/16 4:42 pm With its origins on the high plateau of Tibet, the mighty Mekong River meanders along for 2,800 miles (4,500 km), gathering silt from China, Myanmar, Thailand, Laos, and Cambodia, before splitting into the distributaries that give the region the name Song Cuu Long or the River of Nine Dragons. These tentacled waterways bestow Vietnam’s southern plain with rich alluvial soil that has made it a “rice basket,” as well as a “fruit basket” filled with coconut, longan, and mango trees. The delta has long been laid claim to by Cambodia, and in 1978, the Khmer Rouge orchestrated a savage massacre at numerous villages. Nevertheless, the delta and its people are extremely resilient, having survived the ravages of frequent floods, French and Cambodian occupation, many bombings, and the devastating effects of the chemical defoliant, Agent Orange. Despite this legacy of conflict and upheaval, life on the delta ebbs and flows to an age-old rhythm. Through necessity and tradition, the physical boundaries between land and water are transcended by farmers who row across canals that crisscross their emerald fields. In contrast, commercial towns such as Can Tho and Rach Gia are hurtling towards modernization. Everywhere, however, are attractive Khmer, Vietnamese, and Chinese-style pagodas that reflect the delta’s ethnic diversity. Nature is a major part of the delta’s draw. Ha Tien’s beaches fea ture white sand and towering limestone karsts, while the marshland around Bac Lieu is home to a variety of migratory birds. Off Vietnam’s southern shore lie Phu Quoc and Con Dao Islands, which boast national parks and are both fast becoming popular as ecotourism destinations. Lush vegetation overhangs the waterways of Mekong delta MEKONG DELTA AND SOUTHERN VIETNAM Life on the delta revolves around the Mekong River, with its green expanses of paddy fields, thick orchards, and intricate patchwork of canals. Floating houses, markets, and fishing boats bob on the rivers, while the islands boast dense forests and beautiful white-sand beaches. Amid the bells, drums, and chanting of the delta’s many pagodas, an ancient way of life continues well into the 21st century. VIETNAM AREA BY AREA 8 9 The floating market of Soc Trang in Mekong delta 088-089_EW_VTN.indd 89 14/07/16 4:42 pm Exploring Mekong Delta and Southern Vietnam The Mekong Delta is a unique region where life on the water has remained unchanged for centuries. Closest to Ho Chi Minh City, My Tho is known as a launching pad for boat tours, as is Vinh Long, which lies to its south. Can Tho, the delta’s largest city has several lively floating markets in its vicinity. To see some floating architecture, head to Chau Doc, where most people live and work on the water. Khmer culture is prominent in Soc Trang and Tra Vinh, while nature lovers will delight in Con Dao National Park. The shores of Phu Quoc Island boast beautiful coral reefs, and Ha Tien offers secluded beaches. 9 0 VIETNAM AREA BY AREA Towns and Cities 1 My Tho 3 Ben Tre 4 Tra Vinh 5 Vinh Long 6 Cao Lanh 7 Can Tho 8 Soc Trang 9 Bac Lieu q Rach Gia w Chau Doc e Ha Tien Islands 2 Phoenix Island 0 Con Dao Islands r Phu Quoc Island Sights at a Glance Colonnaded façade of the Khmer-style Ong Met Pagoda, Tra Vinh (see p93) Well-stocked fruit stall at a local market, Ben Tre (see p93) Ho Chi Minh City Ca Mau Cape U Minh Nature Reserve Khoai Island Tre Island Da Le Island KIEN GIANG CA MAU BAC LIEU SOC TRANG CAN THO VINH LONG AN GIANG LONGAN DONG THAP TRA VINH BEN TRE TIEN GIANG Dong Tam Snake Farm Oc Eo Thach Dong Temple Chua Hang Grotto Hang Pagoda Bac Lieu Bird Sanctuary Hau Bay Hap Cua Lon Vam Co Tay Tien Giang Hau Giang My Tho Co Chien Ham Luong Cua Tieu Bay Cay Duong Rach Gia Bay Tan An Giong Trom Thanh Phu Cau Ngang Chau Thanh Tra Cu Cau Quan Long Phu Ke Sach Chau Thanh Huynh Ky Tieu Can Ba Dong Mo Cay Ba Tri Binh Dai Thu Thua Go Cong Can Duoc Ben Luc Duc Hoa Hau Nghia Dong Thanh Tan Hoa Vinh Binh Moc Hoa Tan Hung Sa Rai Vinh Hung Tan Thanh Thanh Hoa Cai Lay Cai Be Tra On Cai Rang O Mon Thoi Lai Co Do Vung Liem Cang Long Song Doc U Minh Tran Van Thoi Cai Doi Vam Nam Can Cai Nuoc Dam Doi Mai Vinh Ganh Hao Thoi Binh Phuoc Long Ngan Dua Gia Rai Ho Phong Vinh Chau Con Dao My Xuyen Hoa Binh Phu Loc Hong Ngu Chi Lang Nha Bang Tan Chau Cho Vam Cai Dau Cho Moi Thanh Binh My An Tram Chim Thu Muoi Mot Minh Luong Giong Rach Soi Rieng Vi Thanh Long My Nang Mau An Hoa Go Quan Vinh Thuan Kien Luong Hon Dat Cay Dua Tri Ton Trung Son Duong Dong Ca Mau Phung Hiep Thot Not Duyen Hai Long Xuyen Sa Dec BEN TRE MY THO PHOENIX ISLAND VINH LONG TRA VINH SOC TRANG BAC LIEU CON DAO ISLANDS RACH GIA CAO LANH CAN THO CHAU DOC HA TIEN PHU QUOC ISLAND For hotels and restaurants see pp237–8 and pp247–8 090-091_EW_VTN.indd 90 14/07/16 4:42 pm For keys to symbols see back flap Farmers in conical hats harvesting rice in a paddy field 9 0 VIETNAM AREA BY AREA MEKONG DELTA AND SOUTHERN VIETNAM 9 1 Key Highway Major road Minor road International border Provincial border Getting Around Once considered a remote backwater, the Mekong Delta now has airports in Can Tho,Con Dao, Rach Gia, and Phu Quoc. While highways are quite reliable, rural roads usually offer bumpy rides in erratically scheduled buses. Many travel agents in the delta and in Ho Chi Minh City organize trips through out the south by coach and car. However, the best way to experience the delta is by boat. With more than 1,740 miles (2,800 km) of canals, the waterway system is very well developed. The public transportation system is adequate although private boat tours offer more comfort. Bicycles and motorbikes are available to rent everywhere. 0 kilometers 0 miles 25 25 Ho Chi Minh City Ca Mau Cape U Minh Nature Reserve Khoai Island Tre Island Da Le Island KIEN GIANG CA MAU BAC LIEU SOC TRANG CAN THO VINH LONG AN GIANG LONGAN DONG THAP TRA VINH BEN TRE TIEN GIANG Dong Tam Snake Farm Oc Eo Thach Dong Temple Chua Hang Grotto Hang Pagoda Bac Lieu Bird Sanctuary Hau Bay Hap Cua Lon Vam Co Tay Tien Giang Hau Giang My Tho Co Chien Ham Luong Cua Tieu Bay Cay Duong Rach Gia Bay Tan An Giong Trom Thanh Phu Cau Ngang Chau Thanh Tra Cu Cau Quan Long Phu Ke Sach Chau Thanh Huynh Ky Tieu Can Ba Dong Mo Cay Ba Tri Binh Dai Thu Thua Go Cong Can Duoc Ben Luc Duc Hoa Hau Nghia Dong Thanh Tan Hoa Vinh Binh Moc Hoa Tan Hung Sa Rai Vinh Hung Tan Thanh Thanh Hoa Cai Lay Cai Be Tra On Cai Rang O Mon Thoi Lai Co Do Vung Liem Cang Long Song Doc U Minh Tran Van Thoi Cai Doi Vam Nam Can Cai Nuoc Dam Doi Mai Vinh Ganh Hao Thoi Binh Phuoc Long Ngan Dua Gia Rai Ho Phong Vinh Chau Con Dao My Xuyen Hoa Binh Phu Loc Hong Ngu Chi Lang Nha Bang Tan Chau Cho Vam Cai Dau Cho Moi Thanh Binh My An Tram Chim Thu Muoi Mot Minh Luong Giong Rach Soi Rieng Vi Thanh Long My Nang Mau An Hoa Go Quan Vinh Thuan Kien Luong Hon Dat Cay Dua Tri Ton Trung Son Duong Dong Ca Mau Phung Hiep Thot Not Duyen Hai Long Xuyen Sa Dec BEN TRE MY THO PHOENIX ISLAND VINH LONG TRA VINH SOC TRANG BAC LIEU CON DAO ISLANDS RACH GIA CAO LANH CAN THO CHAU DOC HA TIEN PHU QUOC ISLAND For hotels and restaurants see pp237–8 and pp247–8 090-091_EW_VTN.indd 91 14/07/16 4:42 pm 9 2 VIETNAM AREA BY AREA For hotels and restaurants see pp237–8 and pp247–8 Blackened funerary urn resting on a tortoise sculpture, Phoenix Island 1 My Tho Road Map B6. 45 miles (72 km) SW of HCMC on Hwy 1. * 230,000. @ from HCMC to Mien Tay bus station. g n Tien Giang Tourist, 8, 30/4 St, (073) 387 3184. ∑ tiengiangtourist.com/ Because of its proximity to Ho Chi Minh City, My Tho, on the northernmost tributary of the Mekong River, is the most popular daytrip destina tion in the delta. It is an ideal base from which to hire a boat and cruise along the canals, stop ping along the way to explore the surrounding islands. A stroll through My Tho’s wide treelined boulevards and waterfront market is almost a walk back in time. Wooden boats and barges crowd the shore, as vendors sell an impressive array of goods, from food to hardware and domestic items such as the giant earthenware urns used for bathing. The pungent aroma of dried fish and the fragrance of pineapple and jackfruit fill the air. In addition to commerce, My Tho is also a religious center, with Vinh Trang Pagoda being one of its most noteworthy edifices. The temple’s façade is embel lished with mosaics made from broken pottery, a custom followed throughout South east Asia. Lily ponds and stone tombs surround the beautiful complex, and an image of the Buddhist goddess Quan Am is set into the heart of a banyan tree. 2 Phoenix Island Road Map B6. 2 miles (3 km) from My Tho. g 4 Sanctuary: Open 8:30– 11am, 1:30–6pm daily. & Midway between My Tho and Ben Tre are numerous small islands, the best known among them being Con Phung or Phoenix Island. This was the lonely bastion of the Coconut Monk. On this small spot of dry land, he built his quaint little temple complex. On a circular base, about 75 ft (25 m) in diameter, are several freestanding blueandgold dragon columns, support ing nothing but the air above them. Nearby is a latticework structure that rather resembles a roller coast er. This is flank ed by minarets and the monk’s impres sion of a moon rocket. On the upriver side, a huge funerary urn lies on the back of a giant tortoise Serving the city’s large population of Christians, My Tho Church functions both as a diocese and a Catholic school. Originally established in the 19th century, the current massive yellow building, with a highvaulted ceiling and a redtile roof, sits on sprawling grounds that are covered with trees and shrubs. A short distance northwest of My Tho is the small but historically signi ficant hamlet of Ap Bac. This was the site of the battle which resul ted in the first major vic tory of the Vietcong against the USbacked South Viet namese army in 1963. Vinh Trang Pagoda 60 Nguyen Trung Truc St. Tel (073) 387 3427. Open 9–11:30am, 1:30–5pm daily. 5 My Tho Church 32 Hung Vuong St. Tel (073) 388 0075. Open 7am–6pm daily. 7 The handsome mosaic-embellished façade of Vinh Trang Pagoda, My Tho Coconut Monk The given name of the Coconut Monk was Nguyen Thanh Nam (1909–90). A student of chemistry, he eventually discarded the trappings of com fort and ded icated himself to medi ta tion and absti nence. Subsis ting on a diet of coconuts and water, he even started a reli gion, Tinh Do Cu Si, a whimsi cal blend of Buddhism and Christianity. He challenged the authorities on how to reunify the nation and restore peace after its partition in 1954, and often ended up in jail because of his views. His bizarre headquarters on Phoenix Island remain his most enduring legacy. 092-093_EW_VTN.indd 92 14/07/16 4:37 pm MEKONG DELTA AND SOUTHERN VIETNAM 9 3 3 Ben Tre Road Map B6. 53 miles (86 km) SW of HCMC; 9 miles (14 km) S of My Tho. * 116,000. @ from HCMC. g from My Tho. n Ben Tre Tourist, 65 Dong Khoi St, (075) 382 9618. Being off the tourist trail, Ben Tre does not get as many visi tors as other delta cities, thus providing a rare glimpse into an ancient river town still living by its traditional ways. The capital of Ben Tre Province, this town is famous in Vietnam for its coconut candy, and is lush with vast plant ations yielding huge amounts of coconuts. To make the candy, the fruit’s milk and flesh are boiled down to a sticky mass that is allowed to hard en, then cut into small pieces and wrapped in edible rice paper. The pro cess is fasci nating to watch and the results delicious. A “country” market in every sense of the word, the central market offers little finery, with preference given to hard ware, lengths of cloth, and food. The most interesting stalls belong to the fish mon gers, who sell a variety of fresh and dried fish. A notable religious site in Ben Tre is Vien Minh Pagoda. Established around 1900, it is now the head office of the pro vin cial Buddhist associa tion. The sparse interior is enlive ned by colorful wall hangings and images sporting neon halos. Vien Minh Pagoda 156 Nguyen Dinh Chieu St. Tel (075) 381 3931. Open sunrise–sunset daily. sculp ture. A small coconut candy factory operates on the perimeter of the island. Neighboring Phoenix Island are several little islands, which make good venues for picnics. These include Con Tan Long or Dragon Island, home to beekeepers and boat wrights (see p94); Thoi Son or Unicorn Island, full of narrow canals that irrigate lush lon gan orch ards; and Con Qui or Tortoise Island, known for its coconut candy and pot ent banana liquor. Pineapples, jack fruit, and mangoes are also grown here in abun dance. Each of these islands is served by a scheduled ferry. Blue-and-gold dragon columns on the Coconut Monk’s Phoenix Island 4 Tra Vinh Road Map B6. 62 miles (100 km) W of Can Tho. * 131,000. @ from Vinh Long and Can Tho. n Tra Vinh Tourist Office, 64–66 Le Loi St, (074) 385 8556. With its large Khmer, Christian, and Chinese population, Tra Vinh is distinguished by the diversity of its places of worship. Of the many Khmerstyle religious buildings, Ong Met Pagoda is distinctive for its portico posts surmounted by fourfaced images of the Buddha. The 10ft (3m) tall gilded stupas, moundshaped reliquary monuments, are dedicated to deceased monks. One of the most vibrant Chinese pagodas in town is Ong Pagoda, which was consecrated in 1556 and dedicated to the deified Chinese general Quan Carved pillar, Phoenix Island Cong of the 3rd century. The pagoda is known for its wildly colorful rear courtyard, one wall of which is engraved with red dragons disporting themselves between blue mountains and a green sea. A highlight is a fish pond where richly painted sculpted carp are shown in midleap as they break through the surface. These are all the works of Le Van Chot, who has a sculpture studio on the grounds. However, it is the Tra Vinh Church that captures the spirit of the town’s religious eclecticism best. Although its exterior has a colonialstyle design, a close examination of the eaves reveals “dragon flames,” typically seen on Khmerstyle temples. Environs About 4 miles (6.5 km) south of town, Hang Pagoda is a simple structure. Its main attraction is the hundreds of storks that nest here. The Khmer Minority People’s Museum has some interesting exhibits but there is no English signage. While household items, costumes, and jewelry are selfexplanatory, religious items might need a guide. The museum is located beside the treeringed Ba Om Pond, about 4 miles (7 km) southwest of Tra Vinh, which is ideal for picnics. Also close by is the Ang Pagoda, a religious site since the 11th century. A pride of sculpted lions guard the entry, flanked by murals depicting the Buddha’s life. Not far from here is the small greenandwhite painted Mosque Hoi Giao, which belongs to the region’s Cham community and was originally built in 1921. About 3 miles (5 km) north of Tra Vinh is the small President Ho Chi Minh (Uncle Ho) Temple, built in 1971 just two years after the death of Ho Chi Minh. It includes a small museum of his life, with pieces of military equipment on display around its leafy compound. EKhmer Minority People’s Museum 4 miles (7 km) SW of town on 3 SEB Luong Hoa St. Tel (074) 384 2188. Open 7–11am, 1–5pm Fri–Wed. 092-093_EW_VTN.indd 93 14/07/16 4:37 pm 9 4 VIETNAM AREA BY AREA For hotels and restaurants see pp237–8 and pp247–8 Vendors in sampans at the early morning Cai Be Floating Market 6 Cao Lanh Road Map B6. 100 miles (162 km) from HCMC. * 170,000. @ n Dong Thap Tourist, 6 Do Cong Tuong St, (067) 385 2136. Although the town itself is not remarkable, the drive to Chau Doc (see p104) via Cao Lanh is pleasant. The Dong Thap Museum, which displays many of the traditional implements used by delta farmers and fishermen, including a large model of a boat and fish traps (see p103), is a worthwhile stop. The Soviet-style War Memorial is a big clam-shell structure, festooned with hammers, sickles, and flags. The cemetery at the memorial is filled with the graves of Vietcong soldiers. A mile southwest of town is Nguyen Sinh Sac Tomb, a memorial to Ho Chi Minh’s father, surrounded by plaques stating his revolutionary credentials. Environs Stretching to the north of Cao Lanh, the rich swamplands of Dong Thap Muoi, or Plain of Reeds, are home to many birds. The Tram Chim National Park, 28 miles (45 km) northwest of town, once drew legions of birdwatchers who braved the long boat ride to see the red-headed cranes here. The red-headed crane can be spotted from December to May only and is becoming increasingly rare to sight. Vuon Co Thap Muoi, about 27 miles (44 km) northeast of Cao Lanh, is home to many white storks. Southeast of Cao Lanh, the Rung Tram Forest once housed a hidden Vietcong base of resistance, Xeo Quyt. This restricted site can be reached by a 30-minute boat ride after seeking permission from the tourist office. E Dong Thap Museum 162 Nguyen Thai Hoc St. Tel (067) 385 1342. Open 7–11am, 1–4pm daily. P War Memorial Off Hwy 30 at the eastern edge of town. Open daily. 5 Vinh Long Road Map B6. 84 miles (136 km) SW of HCMC; 46 miles (74 km) SW of My Tho. * 145,000. @ n Cuu Long Tourist, 1 Thang 5 St, (070) 382 3616. A small town on the bank of the Co Chien River, Vinh Long is mostly used by tourists as a base for exploring the islets dotting the waters around it. How ever, the town itself is also worth visiting. Vinh Long’s large, French-Colonial Catholic church draws atten tion to the fact that the area was once an important target for Christian missionaries. On the outskirts of town, Van Thanh Mieu Temple is a simple yet ele gant structure, which was dedi cated to Confucius in 1866. In 1930, a new build ing was add ed to it in honor of Phan Thanh Gian, who led a rebel lion against the French. Boat tours are a popular way to take in the dramatic sweep of the river and the charm of the offshore islands, most of which boast lovely flower gardens. An Binh and Binh Hoa Phuoc are popular amongst visitors as idyllic picnic spots. Just north of the ferry landing at An Binh, is the out wardly unassuming Tien Chau Pag oda. Inside, however, are startlingly lurid murals depict ing the horrors of Buddhist Hell. In this scary vision, perdition for the lapsed includes being tram pled by horses, devoured by serpents, and decomposing eternally. Surround ed by orchards, sam pans, and monkey bridges, the boat wrights, candymakers, bee keepers, and arti sans ply their trades. The rhythm of life on the delta is fasci nating, and Vinh Long is an ideal place to expe rience it. Homestays (see p234), where visitors can eat, sleep, and work with a local family, are highly recommended. Environs Floating markets are common through out the delta. Cai Be Floating Market, about an hour from Vinh Long by boat, is the easiest to reach. Open in the early morning, it is both a whole sale and a retail market, with large boats sel ling to merchants and small boats serving householders. Traders maneu ver their boats agilely, loading fruit, coffee, and even hot noo dles from one boat to another. Van Thanh Mieu Temple 2 miles (3 km) S of town on Tran Phu Rd. Tel (070) 383 0174. Open 8am– sunset daily. Statue in Dong Thap Museum Boatwrights of the Mekong Delta The boatwright’s craft is perhaps the oldest in the delta. Without it, there could be no transport, trade, and indeed, no homes for many. This skill is mastered by learning from family members who pass on age-old instructions, a few rules of thumb, and a few specialized tools. Often, when prized boats become decrepit, boatwrights dis mantle them piece by piece to create exact replicas. Thus, any boat seen on the delta could be the descen dant of one that looked identical nearly 500 years ago. Boats awaiting completion at a dock 094-095_EW_VTN.indd 94 14/07/16 4:42 pm MEKONG DELTA AND SOUTHERN VIETNAM 9 5 Possibly the best way of experiencing the timeless, bucolic character of the Mekong Delta is by taking a boat ride along the dense network of narrow canals around Vinh Long. Making its way through the small islands of An Binh and Binh Hoa Phuoc, the tour offers a close look at life on the river. Thatched houses sit amid luxuriant orchards and gardens interlaced with the sights and sounds of a colorful and bustling floating market. Vinh Long Boat Tour 2 Cai Be Floating Market This lively market is packed with vendors selling a range of goods on boats. The best time to visit is in the early morning as the market disappears by noon. A small church on the nearby shore forms a scenic backdrop. 6 Fruit Orchards at An Binh The thriving orchards on this island nurture an impressive variety of fruits, includ ing longan, jackfruit, rose apple, and uglifruit, a citrus that tastes far better than it looks. 1 Vinh Long Surrounded by a complex patchwork of canals and several islets, Vinh Long is almost an island itself. Situated on the banks of the Co Chien River, it is an ideal base for exploring the region. 3 Dong Phu A tiny village of farmers, orchardists, and boatmen, Dong Phu has barely changed over the centuries. 4 Hoa Ninh Reachable only by boat and a footbridge, Hoa Ninh is known for its flower gardens filled with jasmine plants, as well as apricot, mango, and longan trees. 5 Binh Hoa Phuoc Village Located on an island by the same name, this small village is known for its bonsai orchards, and offers cozy homestay facilities as well. Church looming over the shore near Cai Be Floating Market 0 kilometers 0 miles 3 3 Tips for Tourists Length: 5 to 6 hours. Boat rentals: Visitors can easily rent boats via Cuu Long Tourist, or book a tour through agents in Ho Chi Minh City. Private boats may be hired at the risk of incurring a fine. Stopping-off points: Binh Hoa Phuoc Village is an ideal place to stop for a quick and tasty meal. Tourist enjoying a boatride in the Mekong Delta region T i e n C o C h i e n For keys to symbols see back flap 094-095_EW_VTN.indd 95 14/07/16 4:42 pm 096-097_EW_VTN.indd 96 17/07/14 3:19 PM 096-097_EW_VTN.indd 97 17/07/14 3:19 PM 9 8 VIETNAM AREA BY AREA 7 Can Tho The largest city on the delta, Can Tho is one of the most delightful destinations in the south. Bordering six provinces, it serves as a transportation hub for the region, as well as a major agricultural center, with rice milling as its main industry. The city is also an ideal base for day trips, especially to the floating markets – the highlight of a visit here. Within Can Tho, the Central Market, known for its fresh produce and river fish; the Can Tho Museum; and the Khmer Munirangsyaram Temple are all worth seeing. Ong Pagoda 32 Hai Ba Trung St. Tel (0710) 382 3862. Devotees come to this small pagoda to pray before Than Tai, God of Fortune, and Quan Am, Goddess of Mercy. To ensure their prayers are heard, they often pay the temple calligrapher to pen their prayers onto scrolls and hang them on the wall. Several richly decorated urns burn constantly. E Can Tho Museum 1 Hoa Binh St. Tel (0710) 382 0955. Open 8–11am, 2–5pm Tue–Thu; 8–11am, 7–9pm Sat–Sun. This excellent museum illustrates life in Vietnam and the history of the city and province. Exhibits include a traditional teahouse, a lifelike tableau of a herbalist tending to a patient, and many artifacts. There are also some harrowing war photographs. Fresh vegetables for sale at the Cai Rang morning market Munirangsyaram Temple 36 Hoa Binh St. Tel (0710) 381 6022. Open 8am–5pm daily. An Angkorlike tower rises over this Khmer Theravada Buddhist temple. Inside, Doric columns blend beautifully with Asian features, such as seated Buddhas and ceramic lotuses. Floating Markets Can Tho is central to at least two floating markets, all providing a glimpse into a unique commercial culture. Traders paddle from boat to boat, selling a variety of goods amid a traffic jam of sampans. The morning market of Cai Rang is the closest and largest, located just 4 miles (7 km) southwest of the city. A bridge nearby offers great views, but nothing compares to exploring the market by boat. A farther 9 miles (14 km) west, Phong Dien Can Tho 1 Central Market 2 Ho Chi Minh Statue 3 Ong Pagoda 4 Can Tho Museum 5 Munirangsyaram Temple market possesses an endearing simplicity. Sampans can be rented for both these markets from the riverfront off Hai Ba Trung Street or from local tour operators. About 32 miles (52 km) north of Can Tho is located the Bang Lang Stork Garden, a sanctuary for storks. The trees here attract thousands of storks each evening; a wonderful sight as they settle down to roost. VISITORS’ CHECKLIST Practical Information Road Map B6. 105 miles (169 km) SW of HCMC. * 1,300,000. ( _ Binh Thuy Temple Festival (Jan, May). ∑ canthotourist.vn Transport ~ 10 km S. @ g n Can Tho Tourist, 50 Hai Ba Trung St, (0710) 382 7674. 0 meters 0 yards 200 200 For keys to symbols see back flap Can Tho Ferry Victoria Can Tho Cai Rang 4 miles (7 km), Phong Dien 13 miles (21 km) Phung Hiep 20 miles (32 km) Bus Station C a n T h o R i v e r Can Tho Museum Munirangsyaram Temple Ong Pagoda Ho Chi Minh Statue Central Market HAI BA T RUN G N G O Q UYEN N G O Q UYEN PHAN DINH PHUN G L E THANH T O N LY THUONG KI ET T RAN Q U O C T O AN N G O VAN S O XO VIET NGHE TINH NA M KY KH O I N G HIA D O N G KH O I PHAN DINH PHUN G TAN T RA O H O A B I N H NGO GIA TU NGUYEN THAI HOC VO VAN TAN NGUYEN AN NINH PHAN BOI CHAU PHAN CHU TRINH 098-099_EW_VTN.indd 98 14/07/16 4:42 pm MEKONG DELTA AND SOUTHERN VIETNAM 9 9 For hotels and restaurants see pp237–8 and pp247–8 After threshing, winnowing, and separating the grain from the sheaves and chaff, the rice is laid out on mats to dry in the sun. Rice Cultivation Transplantation The seeds for paddy rice are germinated and allowed to shoot outside the fields, often in trays or pots. When the shoots are a few inches high, they are brought to the paddy field for final planting. Rich delta soil is critical to the abundance of the harvest. Paddy farming is always a cooperative enterprise, facilitated by several members of the family. Although some rice is transported by ox-cart and truck, water remains the most traditional as well as the most efficient means in the Mekong of getting the rice to market. Irrigation canals are also used to mark property lines. Woman preparing rice paper at a factory The Rice Wrapper Factory Rice wrappers (banh trang) are ubiquitous in Vietnamese cuisine. Almost any food can be wrapped in one and eaten like a sandwich or burrito. The wrappers are prepared in various kitchens and factories throughout the country. A thin batter of rice flour and water is poured over a cloth stretched over a pot of simmering water. The rising steam cooks the mixture in a matter of seconds; the wrapper is then laid on a woven bamboo mat or tray to dry, giving banh trang its distinctive crisscross pattern. Harvesting is done by stoop labor, usually by men and women using hand sickles. Mixture of water and rice powder Cloth stretched over a boiler Rice paper drying on bamboo mats Rice is Vietnam’s primary food staple and the country’s most vital cash crop. The rice industry employs almost 80 percent of the country’s population in one way or another. The majority of rice pro duction in Vietnam takes place in the Mekong Delta, the fertile soil of which has contributed signi ficantly to making Vietnam the world’s second-largest exporter of rice. A significant portion of this enor mous productivity is the result of hard manual and animal labor. Fields are usually ploughed not by tractors but by water buffaloes, and irrigation is managed not by pumps, but by teams of people wielding two-handed buckets or watertight woven baskets. Baskets carry seedlings for transplantation. Seedlings ready to be transplanted. Can Tho Ferry Victoria Can Tho Cai Rang 4 miles (7 km), Phong Dien 13 miles (21 km) Phung Hiep 20 miles (32 km) Bus Station C a n T h o R i v e r Can Tho Museum Munirangsyaram Temple Ong Pagoda Ho Chi Minh Statue Central Market HAI BA T RUN G N G O Q UYEN N G O Q UYEN PHAN DINH PHUN G L E THANH T O N LY THUONG KI ET T RAN Q U O C T O AN N G O VAN S O XO VIET NGHE TINH NA M KY KH O I N G HIA D O N G KH O I PHAN DINH PHUN G TAN T RA O H O A B I N H NGO GIA TU NGUYEN THAI HOC VO VAN TAN NGUYEN AN NINH PHAN BOI CHAU PHAN CHU TRINH 098-099_EW_VTN.indd 99 14/07/16 4:42 pm 100 VIETNAM AREA BY AREA For hotels and restaurants see pp237–8 and pp247–8 Wildly colorful collection of painted clay animals at Chua Dat Set, Soc Trang Entrance to the French-provincial style Cong Tu Bac Lieu 9 Bac Lieu Road Map B6. 174 miles (280 km) from HCMC; 31 miles (50 km) SW of Soc Trang. * 148,000. @ n Bac Lieu Tourist, 2 Hoang Van Thu St, (781) 382 4272. ∑ baclieuprovince.info This small town is primarily an agricultural center, with a major part of its revenue coming from the shrimp and salt farms located along the coast. Most visitors use the place as a base to explore the region, including the nearby sanctuary. The town features some fine FrenchColonial build ings, such as the impres sive Cong Tu Bac Lieu, once the palace of the prince of Bac Lieu Province. Now a hotel, the building has been restored to its 1930s splendor, taking visitors on a journey back in time. Environs The Bac Lieu Bird Sanctuary is about 3 miles (5 km) south of town. Its mangrove forests are home to a splendid variety of species. More than 50 types of birds either reside here or use it as a way station in their annual migrations. There are large flocks of white herons, which are the main attraction for most visitors. Unfortunately, other than some primitive toilets and an observation tower, the sanctuary lacks facilities. The best time to visit this sanctuary is between July and December, as there is little to see for the rest of the year. 8 Soc Trang Road Map B6. 39 miles (63 km) SE of Can Tho. * 165,000. @ n Soc Trang Tourist, Ton Duc Thang, (079) 893 0997. _ Oc Om Boc Festival (mid-Nov). ∑ soctrangtravel.info This lively town is famous for its festivals and religious sites. Once part of the Angkor Empire, the entire province is home to 90 Khmer, 47 Chin ese, and 30 Vietnamese pagodas, many of which are in Soc Trang itself. Of the ten annual festi vals held here, the largest is the carnivalesque Khmer festival, Oc Om Boc (see p37), with its famous boat racing. Set in beautiful grounds, Khleang Pagoda is the best-known Khmer temple in town. The mandarin-orange building is topped by a peaked roof with gables, and festooned with colorful gargoyels. The sanctuary is lit by lotus-motif chandeliers, and a gilt Buddha dominates the altar. About 356 ft (200m) east of the Khleang Pagoda, is Chua Dat Set, or Clay Pagoda, populated by fan tas tic clay figures sculpted by Ngo Kim Tong, also known as the Clay Monk, between 1930 and 1970. Standing guard at the door is an almost life-size statue of an elephant, while a golden lion, giant phoenix, and numerous other beasts contribute to the menagerie of imagery inside the pagoda. The Khmer Museum doubles as a cultural center at times, hosting traditional dance and music recitals. The exhibits at the museum include ethnic clothing, crockery, statues, and even a couple of boats. The building itself is a peculiar blend of Khmer and French-Colonial architecture. Environs Earning its nickname from the legions of fruit bats living in its dense groves, Chua Doi or Bat Pagoda is 2 miles (4 km) west of town on Le Hong Phong Street. At sunset, the bats take flight, filling the sky like a great screeching cloud. The pagoda’s other highlights are its friendly monks, the graves of the fivetoed pigs, and the vibrant murals inside showing scenes from the Buddha’s life. Farther west, 9 miles (14 km) from town, Xa Lon Pagoda began about 200 years ago as a thatched Khmer structure, though it was almost destroyed in 1968 by the intense combat of that year (see pp48–9). Today a stout building, with exquisite exterior tilework, it serves as a pagoda as well as a Sanskrit school. Also worth a stop is the handsome, Khmer-style Im Som Rong Pagoda, located about one mile (1.6 km) east of Soc Trang. E Khmer Museum 23 Nguyen Chi Thanh St. Tel (078) 382 2983. Open 7:30–11am, 1:30–5pm Mon–Fri. Closed Sat–Sun. Altar statue, Khleang Pagoda 100-101_EW_VTN.indd 100 14/07/16 4:42 pm MEKONG DELTA AND SOUTHERN VIETNAM 101 Flora, Fauna, and Birds of the Mekong Delta The rich soil and lush green habitat of the Mekong Delta is home to a wide variety of plant and animal species, with new ones still being discovered. Dense mangrove swamps and tropical forests cover a large portion of the delta, while a range of fruits, such as mangoes, papayas, and bananas, grow in abundance. Several types of orchids, both wild and cultivated, are common as well. The region is also part of the East Asia Flyover and lies along the path of many migratory birds, including species of storks and cranes, especially the rare red-headed crane, also known as the Sarus crane. The delta’s fauna includes wild boar, monkeys, and deer, as well as numerous snake and other reptile species. Several colorful orchids are abundant in the delta. So many species exist that new ones are always being found. Botanists struggle to catalog them all. Many species of snake reside in the Mekong Delta, but the best known are the king cobra and giant python. They are sometimes raised on farms but often taken from the wild for consumption. The crab-eating macaque, or Macaca fascicularis, eats fruits and plants in addition to crabs and insects. These monkeys have black fur at birth, which eventually changes to grey or reddish brown. Coconuts are eaten both green and ripe. The flesh is soft when green, and crunchy when ripe. Delta waters carry rich alluvia from as far as Tibet, and support a diverse aquatic life. Crocodiles can be seen in the wild but, like snakes, they are farmed abundantly. This practice saves them from being hunted to extinction. Coconut Trees Lining Delta Waters Among the most common and bountiful trees in the delta, coconut palms are an integral part of the region’s economy. The fruit and its oil is used extensively in Vietnamese food, while the trees’ long and strong leaves and branches are ideal for making roofs that often last for years. The painted stork, a graceful and slender bird, is one of several rare varieties of stork that find safe refuge in the Mekong Delta’s many bird sanctuaries. Green bee-eaters, brightly colored birds with black beaks, nest in tunnels that they dig in the soft soil of the riverbank. They eat mostly bees and remove the sting by hitting the insect on hard ground. 100-101_EW_VTN.indd 101 14/07/16 4:42 pm 102 VIETNAM AREA BY AREA For hotels and restaurants see pp237–8 and pp247–8 Children playing on a beach at sunset, Con Dao Islands q Rach Gia Road Map B6. 72 miles (116 km) from Can Tho. * 228,000. ~ from HCMC. @ g 4 n Kien Giang Tourist, 11 Ly Tu Trong St, (077) 386 2103. A prosperous port town, Rach Gia boasts many religious buildings such as the charming Pho Minh Pagoda, which houses an order of mendicant nuns. Its Twin Buddhas, one in Thai style and the other Vietnamese, sit 0 Con Dao Islands Road Map B6. 62 miles (100 km) off the southern tip of Vietnam. * 6,000. ~ from HCMC. g from Vung Tao. n Con Dao Tourism, Con Son resort, (091) 808 5659. ∑ condaotourism.com A cluster of 16 islands, Con Dao may be remote but, with its remarkable forests, wildlife, and beaches, it is one of the most astound ing destinations in Vietnam. Declared a nature preserve in 1993, Con Dao National Park covers a massive portion of the archipelago, stretching across 154 sq miles (400 sq km). About twothirds of it is on land, while the rest, including the beautiful coral reefs, is water. These seas are home to more than 1,300 aquatic species, such as sea turtles, dolphins, and dugongs, a manateelike mammal (see p194). Visits to the nesting sites of the endangered green turtle can also be arranged. On land are 135 species of fauna and 882 types of flora, including orchids unique to the island. The only home of the pied imperial pigeon, this park is a birdwatcher’s dream. The largest and only permanently inhabited island in the group is Con Son, often referred to as “Bear Island” because of its shape. About 6 miles (10 km) in length, and with wellmarked trails, the entire island can be walked in a day. These idyllic surroundings, however, hold the remnants of a sad past. Con Son became a devil’s island of sorts after the French built the Phu Hai Prison here in 1862. Political dissidents and revolutionaries were imprisoned under cruel conditions, often kept shackled to the floor. A recreation of this is displayed in one of the cell blocks. In 1954, Phu Hai was handed over to the South Vietnamese, who carried on the tradition. The most inhumane cells were “tiger cages”. These were tiny holes in the ground with steel bars for roofs. Vietcong operatives were routinely brought here. The Revolutionary Museum offers a tour of the complex, and also has displays on the treatment of political prisoners by the French and the South Vietnamese government. For more cheerful outings, the islands boast many spectacular beaches. Diving is also possible offshore. Dat Doc on Con Son is the most popular beach, and dugong sightings have been reported here in recent years. Also on Con Dao is the isolated Nho Beach. To see the brown booby, a rare bird, visit Hon Trung, an hour’s boat ride from Con Son. The beach on Tre Nho Island is a great picnic spot. The best time to visit Con Dao is between March and June; diving season runs June–September. E Revolutionary Museum Near Saigon Con Dao Hotel, 18 Ton Duc Thang St, Con Son. Open 7–11am, 1:30–5pm Mon–Sat. & A freshwater turtle companionably in the sanctuary. The sprawling 200yearold Phat Lon Pagoda has a unique sanctuary, surrounded by many small altars. The main altar holds images of the Buddha in Khmer regalia. The pagoda has its own crematoria for the disposal of its monks’ bodies, and tombs for those chosen for veneration. The colorful Nguyen Trung Truc Temple is dedicated to a revered national hero who sacrificed his life in the struggle against the French in the mid19th century. He was executed in Rach Gia’s market square on October 27, 1868. In addition to the pagodas, the town also hosts the Kien Giang Museum, with an interesting collection of Oc Eo artifacts and pottery. Environs The ancient city of Oc Eo was a major trading center of the Indianized Funan Empire (see p43), which once extended from southern Vietnam to as far as Malaysia. Artifacts recovered from an archaeological site located 6 miles (10 km) outside Rach Gia indicate that Funan’s traders had contact with many nations of the region from the 1st to the 5th century AD. A Roman coin has also been unearthed in this area. There is not much to see at the excavation site, apart from a few foundations under a shelter. E Kien Giang Museum 21D Nguyen Van Troi St. Tel (077) 386 3727. Open 7:30–11am MonFri & 1:30–5pm Mon–Wed. 102-103_EW_VTN.indd 102 14/07/16 4:42 pm MEKONG DELTA AND SOUTHERN VIETNAM 103 Home to thousands of people who live not only beside the river, but on it, the Mekong Delta is known for two of Vietnam’s most distinct forms of houses – stilt and floating. While stilt houses line the steep banks, villages of floating homes occupy the river, completely independent of land. Resting on tall bamboo poles, the stilt houses are firmly anchored to the ground. Floating houses, in contrast, sail adrift on pon toons or empty oil drums. Both types of houses are often connected to the shore by a monkey bridge – a cross ing made of wooden poles tightly tied together, with the barest of footholds. Houses in the Mekong Delta Stilt Houses Built to accommodate the annual Mekong River floods, stilt houses were traditionally made of wood, but are now increasingly built of corru gated iron. They usually comprise one or two spacious rooms, and open out onto a deck. At low tide, the house is accessed via a ladder from the floor to the bank, while at high tide, boats sail right up to the door. Monkey bridges, arched wooden structures, rarely feature any kind of safety railing. They are rickety, but delta people have used them for centuries. Daily activities on the floating houses include everything from fishing and shopping to growing herbs and raising hens. Residents live their entire lives on the water, rarely setting foot on land. Floating villages, complete with homes, shops, and even indus trial buildings, can cover several acres of the Mekong’s waters. Without permanent anchors, it is easy to move house when opportunities are better downstream. Thatched roofs were the norm in the delta, but corrugated metal is preferred now. In addition to being cooling, it lasts much longer. Fish Traps A unique feature in many floating houses is the fish trap – a covered hole in the floor, under which is suspended a large net made of woven strips of bamboo or steel mesh. People of the delta have used this method to trap fish for generations, and today, utilizing scientific techniques, have begun using these traps as incubators for fertilized fish eggs. Fish caught in traps are kept until they are full grown and ready to eat. Bamboo stilts can be up to 20 ft (6 m) tall. Remark ably sturdy and flexible, they can with stand the swiftest currents. Family sampan tied beside a stilt home. Feeding fish in fish trap 102-103_EW_VTN.indd 103 14/07/16 4:42 pm 104 VIETNAM AREA BY AREA For hotels and restaurants see pp237–8 and pp247–8 Floating houses lining the riverfront in Chau Doc w Chau Doc Road Map B6. 152 miles (245 km) SW of HCMC; 74 miles (119 km) NW of Can Tho. * 158,000. @ from HCMC, Can Tho, and Ha Tien. g from Phnom Penh, Cambodia. 4 Life and commerce in Chau Doc, a bustling border town, centers on the water. Many people live not only by the river in stilt houses, but on it in floating houses (see p103). The town’s exceptionally busy market is also located along the riverfront. During a period of several centuries, control over Chau Doc has passed between the Funan ese, Cham, Khmer, and Vietnamese. It is no surprise that this is one of the most ethni cally and religiously diverse towns in the region. It is also home to the Hoa Hao sect, an indige nous Buddhist order founded in the 1930s, and based on the rejection of religious prac tice and the inter cession of priests. The small com munity of Cham Muslims residing in Chau Doc worship at the green Mubarak Mosque across the Hau Giang River and the larger Chau Giang Mosque. Neither has a prop er address, but boatmen know how to reach them. In the town center, the Bo De Dao Trang Plaza is domi nated by a statue of Quan Am, Goddess of Mercy, standing in a gaze bo. Behind the deity, a statue of the Bud dha sits under a tree facing a small pagoda. Close by, Chau Phu Temple is dedicated to a Nguyen lord, and also serves as a tribute to the dead, with many memorial tablets amid colorful artworks. Environs A sacred site for hundreds of years, Sam Mountain lies 4 miles (6 km) southwest of town. Its slopes are covered with shrines, grottos, pagodas, and ancient tombs. At the northern base, lies the Phat Thay Tay An Temple, packed with statues of elephants and monsters – all painted in lurid colors. Many women sell birds for release at the entrance. A statue of a monk guards the inner sanctum. Close by is Ba Chua Xu Temple, dedicated to a Vietnamese heroine, Lady Xu. Her statue is bathed and clad in finery every May. The view from the summit is most stunning, with the rice fields of Vietnam to the east and the plains of Cambodia on its west side. Statue of Quan Am at the entrance of Thach Dong Temple, Ha Tien e Ha Tien Road Map B6. 190 miles (306 km) W of HCMC; 57 miles (92 km) NW of Rach Gia. * 120,000. @ from HCMC and Chau Doc. g from Phu Quoc Island. Overlooking the idyllic shores of the Gulf of Thailand, and surrounded by limestone promontories, Ha Tien is one of the more attractive towns in the delta. With its riverfront having undergone a major cleanup and a vast new suburb growing to the west of the town center, it is also one of the fastest developing areas. It became part of Vietnam after a battle with the Thai in 1708. The hero of the war, Mac Cuu, was laid to rest with his family in the Mac Tombs, which are located on a hillside, Nui Lang, just west of town. On the northern side of Nui Lang, the Phu Dung Pagoda contains elegant 18thcentury tombs. Its sanctuary features exquisite highrelief panels. Environs Sitting snugly in a system of caves, halfway up a karst formation (see p186) about 2 miles (4 km) west of town, Thach Dong Temple goes all the way through the limestone. There are altars everywhere, but the religious focus is on the stone pagoda in the largest cave. A statue of Quan Am stands near its entrance, and at a short distance is the Stele of Hatred. This monument is dedicated to the 130 people killed here by the Khmer Rouge in 1978. About 18 miles (30 km) to the southeast of Ha Tien lies the secluded beach resort of Hon Chong. At the southern end of the beach is the Hang Pagoda, a grotto with stalactites that resonate like organ pipes when struck. Offshore, Nghe Island has many caves and shrines. About an hour by boat, it is ideal for a day trip. Bronze statue, Phat Thay Tay An Temple, Chau Doc 104-105_EW_VTN.indd 104 14/07/16 4:37 pm MEKONG DELTA AND SOUTHERN VIETNAM 105 r Phu Quoc Island Road Map A6. 28 miles (45 km) W of Ha Tien. * 91,000. ~ from HCMC. g from Rach Gia and Ha Tien. ∑ phuquocislandguide.com Claimed by Cambodia, this kiteshaped island played a key role in Vietnam’s history as the base for French missionary Pigneau de Behaine, who sheltered the future emperor, Gia Long, during the Tay Son Rebellion (see p45). Around 31 miles (50 km) long and just 12 miles (20 km) wide, the island is still relatively unde veloped, with most tour ist facilities in its main town, Duong Dong. More like a big village, it has a lighthouse, central market, and fish sauce factory, which also offers tours. Almost 70 percent of the main island is occupied by the Phu Quoc National Park. Established in 2001, it is covered with tropical forest. At present, there are few hiking trails, but the pools at the park’s southern end are scenic and good for swimming. Halfway between Duong Dong town and the park is the Khu Tuong black pepper planta tion. The Vietnamese staple, nuoc mam (fish sauce) is also produced here, and connoisseurs can attest to its quality. Phu Quoc is also blessed with many unspoiled beaches, known in Vietnamese as bai. Bai Truong, along the southwest shore, is the best known. Lined by many hotels, it offers wonderful sunset views. To its north is the rugged Bai Ong Lang, with tiny resorts nestled in its coves. Just offshore is Hon Doi Moi with a coral reef teeming with marine life. It is also great for snorkeling and diving. The An Thoi island group at the southern tip also has a coral reef. The southeastern shore hosts the barely developed but stunning white-sand stretches of Bai Sao and Bai Dam. Scuba gear, island trips, and fishing equipment can be arranged in Duong Dong. Phu Quoc is also home to a fascinating cultured pearl farm and gallery on its southwest coast. Key Main road Minor road The beautiful Truong Beach, with its swaying palms and wooden huts Ferry route For keys to symbols see back flap 0 kilometers 0 miles 5 5 Ganh Dau Cape Tieu Khu Chao 376 m Bai Thom Ganh Dau Chua 552 m Phu Quoc National Park Bai Dai Hon Doi Moi Khu Tuong Da Bac 435 m Bai Ong Lang Duong Dong Ham Ninh Bai Vong Pearl Farm Bai Dam Bai Sao Bai Khem An Thoi Den Cape Rach Gia Bai Truong A n T h o i I s l a n d s GULF OF THAILAND 104-105_EW_VTN.indd 105 14/07/16 4:37 pm Eyewitness Travel Portrait template (SourceReport v1.2) Date 5th December 2012 Size 125mm x 217mm “UK” LAYER LAYERS PRINTED: 106-107_EW_VTN.indd 106 18/07/14 11:13 AM Under the steady influence of seaborne trade, Champa emerged during the 4th century AD as a powerful kingdom. At its peak, Champa extended from the Ngang Pass in the north to present-day Ho Chi Minh City and the Mekong River Delta in the south. From AD 1000, its power dwindled and one principality after another was annexed by the Vietnam ese. By the late 18th cen tury, only tiny Panduranga, extend ing from Phan Rang to Phan Thiet, held out, but it too fell in 1832. Today, Champa’s remains, in the form of tow ers and temple complexes, cluster in the hills of the South Central region. People of the Cham minority still live in the old region of Panduranga, where the Kate Festival is celebrated with great ceremony in early fall. The beaches of lower South Central Vietnam are some of the finest in the country. At Phan Thiet, an 11-mile (18-km) white-sand beach extends to the small fishing village of Mui Ne, Vietnam’s fastestgrowing resort. Up the coast, the sea side city of Nha Trang is justly celebrated for its seafood and its archipelago of offshore is lands, which offer all manner of watersports. More beaches are a day-trip away and for those heading unhurriedly up the coast, tiny fishing towns and love ly, often deserted, stretches of sand beckon. Inland, the main resort town is Dalat, a French-built hill station and a cool delight to visit. Deeper into the highlands, the towns of Buon Ma Thuot and Kontum are surrounded by villages populated by the Bahnar, Ede, and Jarai minorities. Some of these hamlets still feature traditional architecture, such as the extraordinary longhouses of the Bahnar, nha rong. The region was badly scarred by the Vietnam War, and at Son My a moving memorial stands in remembrance of one of the worst atrocities of the time, the My Lai Massacre (see p123). Stepped vegetable fields on the fertile slopes around Dalat South Central Vietnam Covering much of the ancient Kingdom of Champa, South Central Vietnam possesses a densely populated coast scattered with fishing towns and quiet beaches, as well as a substantial hinterland inhabited by indigenous minorities. The resort towns of Nha Trang and Phan Thiet and the honeymoon hill station of Dalat are firmly on the tourist itinerary, but much of this region is relatively unexplored. V ieTN am a Rea by aRea 107 Datanla waterfall in the Dalat region 106-107_EW_VTN.indd 107 18/07/14 11:13 AM Exploring South Central Vietnam With its numerous beaches and easy accessibility, the long coastal strip of South Central Vietnam sees many more visitors than the interior, and the resorts of Mui Ne and Nha Trang make good bases from which to explore much of the southern coast. Travelers tend to hurry past the fish ing towns in the north of the region on their way to Central Vietnam, although attractive beaches and ancient Cham temples make them worthwhile stopovers. Dalat is the most pleasant place to stay in the Central Highlands. Up on the plateau, Buon Ma Thuot makes a decent base for visiting the country’s largest wildlife preserve, Yok Don National Park, as well as outlying minority communities. Heading north, toward friendly Kontum, roads are less traveled, and access, due to unrest among some minority groups, is still limited. The notably well-preserved Cham temple-towers of Po Klong Garai, Phan Rang–Thap Cham 108 VIETNAM AREA BY AREA Towns and Cities 2 Phan Thiet 4 Phan Rang–Thap Cham 5 Nha Trang 6 Dalat 8 Buon Ma Thuot 0 Kontum q Quy Nhon w Sa Huynh e Quang Ngai Beaches 3 Mui Ne Beach Areas of Natural Beauty 1 Ta Cu Mountain 7 Lak Lake National Parks 9 Yok Don National Park Sights at a Glance Dambri Falls, the region’s most beautiful waterfall 0 kilometers 0 miles 50 50 Hoi An Ho Chi Minh City Ho Chi Minh City Phuoc Son BINH THUAN LAM DONG DAK NONG DAK LAK GIA LAI KONTUM QUANG NGAI PHU YEN BINH PHUOC NINH THUAN KHANH HOA BINH DINH Hon Gom Peninsula Hon Heo Peninsula Hon Tre Chu Yang Sin 2423m Ngok Kring 2066m Ta Dung 1972m La Nga Luy C ai Da Rang Krong Nang Ayun Da Thien Lake Po Klong Garai Cham Temple Ninh Chu Beach Po Nagar Cham Temple Po Ro Me Cham Temple Po Shanu Cham Temple Cha Ban Banh It Cham Temple Yang Prong Cham Temple Ba Ho Stream Bo Bla Waterfalls Dambri Falls Ea Hleo Buon Ho Dinh Quan Tan phu Duc Tai Vo Xu Lac Tanh Tuy Hoa Lien Huong La Gi Phan Ri Cua Cho Lau Hiep Thanh Nam Ban Dai Ninh D Ran Thanh My Lien Nghia Lat Village Son Hai Tan Son Dien Khanh Khanh Vinh Dai Lanh Van Gia Da MRi Dong Nai Loc Ninh An Loc Phuoc Binh Thac Mo Duc Phong Chon Thanh Kien Duc Dong Xoai Gia Nghia Tuy Duc Ea Kar Ea Knop M Drak Hai Rieng Krong Kmar Tu Xoay Dak Mil Ea TLing Quang Son Dak Mam Lien Son Buon Trap A Yun Pa Phu Tuc Phu Thien Dieu Tri Canh Vinh La Hai Van Hoa Duc Co Ia Kha Phu Hoa Plei To Ven Kon Kotu Xom Moi Lang Dang Da Du Boloc Chu Se Ia Pia Chu Prong Chu Ty An Khe Kong Chro Tuy Hoa Cung Son Phu Lam Binh Son Son Tinh Duc Pho Tra Xuan Phuoc Dien Ba To Go Vanth Di Lang Binh Dinh Phu Phong Phu My Bong Son Xuan Phong Duong Lieu Tang Bat Ho Tam Quan Dak Glei Liem Rang Lang Moi Dak Chum Plei Kan Kon Plong Dak Ha Dak To Sa Thay Song Cau Chi Thanh Binh Thanh Di Linh Cam Ranh Son My Ninh Hoa Pleiku TA CU MOUNTAIN MUI NE BEACH YOK DON NATIONAL PARK PHAN THIET LAK LAKE PHAN RANG– THAP CHAM BUON MA THUOT KONTUM QUY NHON QUANG NGAI SA HUYNH NHA TRANG DALAT For hotels and restaurants see pp238–9 and pp248–9 108-109_EW_VTN.indd 108 14/07/16 4:42 pm For keys to symbols see back flap SOUTH CENTRAL VIETNAM 109 Key Major road Minor road Railroad International border Provincial border Getting Around Traveling through the region along coastal Highway 1 or via the Ho Chi Minh City–Hanoi rail link is straightforward. Bus services ply the coast, as do a plethora of minibuses organized by hotels and travel agents. Dalat is also easy to access, and Route 27 from the coast is spectacular. Exploring the Central Highlands takes more effort, and although minibuses do exist, a car and driver (or motorcycle) might serve better. Route 14 from Ho Chi Minh City has seen upgrades, although north of Buon Ma Thuot the road is winding and steep. Coracle on the white-sand beach of Doc Let, north of Nha Trang on the Hon Heo Peninsula Hoi An Ho Chi Minh City Ho Chi Minh City Phuoc Son BINH THUAN LAM DONG DAK NONG DAK LAK GIA LAI KONTUM QUANG NGAI PHU YEN BINH PHUOC NINH THUAN KHANH HOA BINH DINH Hon Gom Peninsula Hon Heo Peninsula Hon Tre Chu Yang Sin 2423m Ngok Kring 2066m Ta Dung 1972m La Nga Luy C ai Da Rang Krong Nang Ayun Da Thien Lake Po Klong Garai Cham Temple Ninh Chu Beach Po Nagar Cham Temple Po Ro Me Cham Temple Po Shanu Cham Temple Cha Ban Banh It Cham Temple Yang Prong Cham Temple Ba Ho Stream Bo Bla Waterfalls Dambri Falls Ea Hleo Buon Ho Dinh Quan Tan phu Duc Tai Vo Xu Lac Tanh Tuy Hoa Lien Huong La Gi Phan Ri Cua Cho Lau Hiep Thanh Nam Ban Dai Ninh D Ran Thanh My Lien Nghia Lat Village Son Hai Tan Son Dien Khanh Khanh Vinh Dai Lanh Van Gia Da MRi Dong Nai Loc Ninh An Loc Phuoc Binh Thac Mo Duc Phong Chon Thanh Kien Duc Dong Xoai Gia Nghia Tuy Duc Ea Kar Ea Knop M Drak Hai Rieng Krong Kmar Tu Xoay Dak Mil Ea TLing Quang Son Dak Mam Lien Son Buon Trap A Yun Pa Phu Tuc Phu Thien Dieu Tri Canh Vinh La Hai Van Hoa Duc Co Ia Kha Phu Hoa Plei To Ven Kon Kotu Xom Moi Lang Dang Da Du Boloc Chu Se Ia Pia Chu Prong Chu Ty An Khe Kong Chro Tuy Hoa Cung Son Phu Lam Binh Son Son Tinh Duc Pho Tra Xuan Phuoc Dien Ba To Go Vanth Di Lang Binh Dinh Phu Phong Phu My Bong Son Xuan Phong Duong Lieu Tang Bat Ho Tam Quan Dak Glei Liem Rang Lang Moi Dak Chum Plei Kan Kon Plong Dak Ha Dak To Sa Thay Song Cau Chi Thanh Binh Thanh Di Linh Cam Ranh Son My Ninh Hoa Pleiku TA CU MOUNTAIN MUI NE BEACH YOK DON NATIONAL PARK PHAN THIET LAK LAKE PHAN RANG– THAP CHAM BUON MA THUOT KONTUM QUY NHON QUANG NGAI SA HUYNH NHA TRANG DALAT 108-109_EW_VTN.indd 109 14/07/16 4:42 pm 110 VIETNAM AREA BY AREA For hotels and restaurants see pp238–9 and pp248–9 Mui Ne Beach’s gargantuan rolling sand dunes 3 Mui Ne Beach Road Map C6. E of Phan Thiet. @ n (090) 443 4895. ∑muinebeach.net A 12-mile (20-km) strip of palm-shaded white sand, Mui Ne Beach (Ham Tien) curves from just east of Phan Thiet to the small fishing village of Mui Ne. The coast is backed by two excellent roads that run parallel to the beach along its entire length. By the end of the 1990s, the beach had developed a reputation among budget travelers as a relaxed hideaway within easy reach of Ho Chi Minh City, but, as one of the best beaches south of Nha Trang, its growing reputation has inevitably led to constant and ever-increasing development. Almost the entire length of beach is now overrun with resorts and upmarket bars and restaurants; the first high-rise hotel was erected in 2009. Today the area has become an enclave for Russian tourism. A number of resorts, bars, and restaurants are Russian-owned 2 Phan Thiet Road Map C6. 125 miles (200 km) E of Ho Chi Minh City. * 216,000. £ @ g n Fish Egg Tree Tours, (090) 443 4895. _ Nghinh Ong Festival (Aug– Sep), once every two years. This pleasant seaside town features an active fishing fleet and a port extending along both banks of the Ca Ty river. For visitors staying at nearby Mui Ne Beach, the town is convenient for both shopping and exploration. Phan Thiet was once at the heart of Panduranga, the last semi-independent Cham principality, which was finally absorbed by the Nguyen Emperor Minh Mang in 1832. The town’s Cham name is Malithit, and there is still an appreciable Cham element among the local population. Locally, it is chiefly celebrated for its nuoc mam (fish sauce), and aficio nados dispute whether the best sauce in the country comes from here or Phu Quoc Island (see p105). Environs Just 4 miles (7 km) from the center of Phan Thiet, on a hill overlooking the town, stands Thap Poshanu, the southernmost collection of Cham religious buildings within the former Kingdom of Champa. The group consists of three kalan, or sanctuary towers, with supplementary structures dating back as far as the 8th century AD, making them some of the oldest Cham archaeological remnants in the country. The serene Reclining Buddha near the peak of Ta Cu Mountain 1 Ta Cu Mountain Road Map C6. 18 miles (30 km) S of Phan Thiet. Pagodas & park n (062) 386 7484. & 0 - = The scenery around Ta Cu is flat and arid, and the mountain, although only 2,100 ft (650 m), affords spectacular views of the coast on clear days. Linh Son Truong Tho Pagoda and Linh Son Long Doan Pagoda, both established in the mid-19th century, are important sites for the many Buddhist pilgrims who come to this holy mountain. However, the main attraction for most visitors – nearly all of whom are Vietnamese – is a white Reclining Buddha, 160-ft (49-m) long and claimed by the Ta Cu custodians to be the largest in Vietnam. It was sculpted in 1962. A cable car, located near Highway 1, is available to carry visitors up the mountain to the Reclining Buddha. Altern atively, it takes two hours to reach the site on foot. 110-111_EW_VTN.indd 110 14/07/16 4:42 pm SOUTH CENTRAL VIETNAM 111 Well-preserved tower at Po Klong Garai temple complex and street signs appear in Vietnamese, Russian, and English. Above the beach, at Sealinks, is a golf course and there are plans to construct several other courses here. Activities at Mui Ne include swimming, sunbathing, and, between November and March, kitesurfing and windsurfing. The sea here is not suitable for diving, and there are no stunning offshore coral reefs. About halfway along the road to Mui Ne Village, Suoi Tien or Fairy Stream flows through the sand dunes to the sea. Still farther east, where the road leaves the beach and curves inland, a track to the north leads to Mui Ne’s celebrated sand dunes, where children rent out tray-like bobsleighs for “sand sledding.” At Mui Ne Village, maturing vats of quality nuoc mam (fish sauce) fill backyards and gardens. The fishing fleet land their catch in the early mornings, and it is fascinating to wander along the beach by the village, watching the fish merchants from Phan Thiet and farther afield park their pickups on the sand and bargain with the fishermen for the freshly landed catch. Unsurprisingly, the whole area has great seafood. 4 Phan Rang–Thap Cham Road Map C5. 65 miles (105 km) S of Nha Trang. * 161,000. £ @ n 45 Bac Ai St, (091) 917 4987. _ Kate Festival (Sep or Oct). A twin city located on an arid coastal strip known for its grape and Cham textile prod uc tion, Phan Rang–Thap Cham is an important road junction linking the coastal provinces with Dalat and the Central Highlands. Thap Cham means Cham Towers, and three of the country’s bestpreserved Cham religious complexes are situated here. Ancient Cham inscriptions on the entrance pillars at Po Klong Garai Po Klong Garai is a group of three brick temple-towers in remarkably good preserva tion. Located on a hilltop, the temple was built in the 13th century by King Jaya Simhavarman III, and inscriptions in Cham script are clearly engraved on the entrance way. The temple has a mukha lingam with the face of King Jaya Simhavarman III in the main kalan or sanctuary. A statue of the bull Nandi, Shiva’s mount, receives regular offer ings. During the Kate Festival each autumn, traditional Cham musical ensembles play here, and folk dancers perform in the temple precincts. Po Ro Me was built in the 17th century when the Cham principality of Panduranga was in decline. It too sits on a hilltop, but is more difficult to access than Po Klong Garai and a motorbike is recom mended to reach the temple. The tower is dedicated to King Po Ro Me, and there is an image of him on a mukha lingam inside. A third temple complex, Hoa Lai, which is located a few miles north of Phan Rang. Pleasant Ninh Chu Beach, shaded by casuarina trees, is located 4 miles (6 km) east of Phan Rang. During his regime (1967–75), it was reserved for President Nguyen Van Thieu and his cronies. T Po Klong Garai Route 27, 4 miles (6 km) W of Thap Cham. Tel (091) 917 4987. Open sunrise–sunset daily. & T Po Ro Me 6 miles (9 km) S of Thap Cham. Open sunrise–sunset daily. Mukha lingam, Po Klong Garai 110-111_EW_VTN.indd 111 14/07/16 4:42 pm For hotels and restaurants see p238 and p249 Long Son Pagoda No 18, 23 Thang 10 St. Tel (058) 381 6919. Open 8am–5pm daily. The most revered pagoda in Nha Trang, Long Son is located on the summit of Trai Thuy Hill to the south of the city. It was destroyed by a typhoon at the beginning of the 20th century and restored several times, most recently in 1940. It is now dedicated to the memory of the numerous Buddhist monks who were killed during or died protesting against the repressive regime of South Vietnam’s President Ngo Dinh Diem (1955–63). Today, it remains a functioning pagoda, with monks in residence. The pagoda is distinctly Sino-Vietnamese in style and is decorated with elaborate dragons and ceramic tiles. The main sanctuary building is dominated by a giant white sculpture of the Buddha, dating 5 Nha Trang Cathedral 31 Thai Nguyen St. Tel (058) 382 3335. Services held daily. The seat of the Catholic Diocese of Nha Trang, this church was built in provincial French Gothic style in the 1930s. It is dominated by a tall, square clock tower surmounted by a large crucifix. Stained-glass windows look onto colonnaded cloisters running the length of each side of the building. The three cathedral bells, cast in France in 1786, are still in fine working order. The former A bustling city and major fishing port, Nha Trang is also Vietnam’s primary beach resort, with numerous comfortable hotels and a wide range of restaurants specializing in seafood. An elegant promenade by the seafront overlooks the Municipal Beach, which is usually packed with travelers sunbathing and vendors selling their wares. The busy Central Market, Cho Dam, is at the city’s heart, while most tourist facilities, and many hotels and bars, are farther south. Outside town are the hot springs of Thap Ba and Ba Ho. Catch a ferry from Cau Da to one of the islands in the bay, where the waters are ideal for snorkeling. 5 Nha Trang E Alexandre Yersin Museum 10D Tran Phu St. Tel (058) 382 2355. Open 8–11am, 2–4:30pm Mon–Sat. & The Swiss physician Alexandre Yersin (1863–1943) moved to Vietnam in 1891 after studying in Paris under the renowned microbiologist Louis Pasteur. He quickly became fluent in Vietnamese and was involved in the founding of Dalat as a hill station in 1893. Yersin introduced cinchona trees to Vietnam for the production of the anti-malarial drug quinine. His most significant achievement came in 1894, when he identified the microbe that causes bubonic plague. Coracles pulled up on Nha Trang’s Municipal Beach The cement-brick belfry of Nha Trang Cathedral L Municipal Beach Nha Trang has a fine beach , almost 4 miles (7 km) long and sheltered by head lands to its north and south. Tran Phu Street follows its entire length, providing a fine promenade with great views across the bay. The entire esplanade area has undergone rapid develop ment, with new hotels and restaurants on the inland side, and numerous cafés and food stalls between the road and the sea; in high season the beach may be less pristine than at off-peak times. Giant Buddha, Long Son Pagoda from the 1960s and a full 46 ft (14 m) tall. Seated behind the temple at the top of the hill, the sculpture is reached via 150 steep steps. From here, there are panoramic views over Nha Trang and the neighboring country side. Another large white Buddha, this time reclining, is located halfway up the steps on the right. It was sculpted by an artisan from Thailand in 2003. cemetery of the cathedral has been leveled and the land used to extend the city’s train station. 112 VIETNAM AREA BY AREA 112-113_EW_VTN.indd 112 14/07/16 4:42 pm The North Tower (Thap Chinh) and Central Tower (Thap Nam), Po Nagar P Po Nagar Cham Towers 2 Thang 4 St. Tel (058) 383 1569. Open 7:30am–5pm daily. & Dedicated to the goddess Po Yan Inu Nagar and one of the most important Cham sites in Vietnam, Po Nagar dates back to the 8th century, when it was constructed by the kings of the Cham principality Kauthara. Although a Cham goddess, Yang Ino Po Nagar is now very much a patron goddess of Nha Trang, venerated by ethnic Viet and Chinese Buddhists, as well as by local Cham Hindus. Of the original eight towers, four remain standing. Built in 817, Thap Chinh, the North Tower, is the most impressive and houses an image of the Hindu goddess Uma in her incarnation as Po Nagar. At the entrance, her consort, the Hindu god Shiva, dances on the back of his holy mount, the sacred bull Nandi. The columns of a ruined mandapa or meditation hall also still stand. A small museum displays Cham artifacts. The museum, located in Yersin’s personal office within the Pasteur Institute, displays his lab equip ment, desk, and books. Still opera tional, the institute produces vaccines and conducts medical research. harbor is alive with activity and fishermen pro pel them selves from boat to boat in rotund, pitch-sealed coracles. Cai River Estuary Nha Trang’s fishing fleet moors on the Cai River just north of downtown. A stroll over the bridge allows a vantage point for watching the blue boats at anchor, their red and yellow flags flapping in the breeze. The 0 meters 0 yards 800 800 NHA TRANG 113 Cau Da Bao Dai Villas VAN HOA NGUYEN BINH PHAN BOI CHAU THONG NHAT SINH TRUNG NGUYEN BINH KHIEM NGUYEN THIEN THUAT D O N G N A I LAC LONG QUAN HONG BANG P H U O N G S A I HOANG HOA THAM TRUNG NU VUONG TRANLE THANH PHUONG QUY CAP HOANG VAN THU NGUYEN THAI HOC NGO QUYEN HAN THUYEN CHI LANG TRAN KHAN DU LE CHAN MAC DINH CHI TRAN BINH TRONG NGO GIA TU NGO DUC KE LE QUY DON HUYNH THUC KHANG VO TRU PHU DONG NGUYEN THIEN THUAT B I E T T H U 2 THANG 4 QUANG TRANG LE THANH TON T H A I N G U Y E N DINH TIEN TO HIEN THANG HONG NGUYEN TRAI LY TU TRONG CAO QU BA AI L E H O N G P H O N G PHAN CHU TRINH LY THANH TON H U N G V U O N G TRAN HUNG DAO DUAN PASTEUR T R A N P H U T R A N P H U Y E R S I N Y E R S I N N G U Y E N T H I M I N H K H A I L E H O N G P H O N G 23 THANG 10 Nha Trang Cathedral Alexandre Yersin Museum Municipal Beach Po Nagar Cham Towers, Thap Ba Hot Springs, Ba Ho Stream Hon Chong Bay Long Son Pagoda Ha Ra Bridge Cai River Estuar y Dam Market Stadium Cam Ranh Airport 21 miles (34 km) Nha Trang 1 Long Son Pagoda 2 Nha Trang Cathedral 3 Municipal Beach 4 Alexandre Yersin Museum 5 Cai River Estuary For keys to symbols see back flap VISITORS’ CHECKLIST Practical Information Road Map C5. 280 miles (450 km) N of Ho Chi Minh City. * 400,000. n Khanh Hoa Tourist Company, 1 Tran Hung Dao St, (058) 352 6753. _ Po Nagar Festival (mid-Apr). Transport ~ 21 miles (34 km) S at Cam Ranh. £ @ 112-113_EW_VTN.indd 113 14/07/16 4:42 pm Pleasure boats for trips to the islands around Nha Trang at Cau Da 114 VIETNAM AREA BY AREA Thap Ba Hot Springs 6 miles (10 km) NW of Nha Trang. Tel (058) 383 5345. Open 7am–7:30pm daily. &∑ thapbahotspring.com.vn Locals and visitors alike gather to wallow in the hot, muddy waters of Thap Ba. The mud is full of sodium silicate chloride and is thought to be beneficial in the treatment of arthritis and } Ba Ho Stream 15 miles (25 km) N of Nha Trang. A terrific spot for a picnic, Ba Ho Stream or Suoi Ba Ho rises on the flanks of Hon Long Mountain (4,400 ft/1,342 m) and then runs east to the South China Sea. The river widens into three adjoining pools, which make for excellent but cold swimming, and each pool is linked to the next by a tumbling cascade of water. There are very few facilities, so take along food and drink. On week ends, the lakeside setting can be overrun as it is very popular with locals. L Hon Chong 2.5 miles (4 km) N of Nha Trang. Tel (058) 383 2189. Open 6.30am–6.30pm daily. & Just north of Nha Trang, a stack of boulders named Hon Chong thrusts into the sea, creating a headland that shelters the beach. One of the rocks bears five inden tations, said to be the handprint of a giant. The bay is picturesque but unsuitable for swimming because of several fishing villages in the area. However, it is a great place for reasonably priced seafood. There are views of Nha Trang Bay to the south, while Nui Co Tien, or Heavenly Woman Mountain, said to resemble the female physiog nomy, is visible to the west. Bathers soaking in tubs of warm mud at Thap Ba Hot Springs For hotels and restaurants see p238 and p249 rheumatism. It is also said to promote general relaxation. Bathers make a point of rubbing the curative mud all over their bodies, and sit in the sun until it dries and cracks. They then wash the mud off with clean, hot min eral water. Various types of water massage are also on offer, and a cool swimming pool is available for a postmudbath dunk. Cau Da 2 miles (3 km) S of downtown Nha Trang. Oceanographic Institute: Tel (058) 359 0036. Open 6am–6pm daily. & Bao Dai Villas: Tel (058) 359 0147. & for non-residents. Sheltered in the lee of Chut Mountain or Nui Chut, Cau Da is a suburb of Nha Trang and the main pier for ferries and boat trips to the islands. The Oceanographic Institute, housed in a colonial mansion near the pier, dis plays marine specimens in glass bottles and cases. Live creatures are kept in a series of tanks, as well as three outside ponds. North of the docks, Bao Dai Villas command fine views across the South China Sea. During the 1920s, the last Nguyen emperor, Bao Dai, ordered five houses to be built in a hybrid Franco-Vietnamese style with Art Nouveau influences. After his abdication in 1945, the villas became the holiday residence of senior officials of the South Vietnamese government and, from 1975, they were used by high-ranking Commuist officials. Today, the villas function as a hotel, which is sadly rather rundown despite having been restored and furnished with pieces reminiscent of Bao Dai’s time and taste. Regular ferries link Cau Da with the fishing village of Tri Nguyen on Hon Mieu, the closest of the islands in the archipelago. The local aquarium is more of a fish farm, with a café serving seafood overlooking the concrete pools. A gravel beach is nearby at Bai Soi. Ba Ho Stream plunging over boulders into a pool 114-115_EW_VTN.indd 114 14/07/16 4:42 pm NHA TRANG 115 Beaches Around Nha Trang 3 Doc Let Still relatively untouched by tourism, Doc Let has a magnificent white sand beach. Jungle Beach, popular with backpackers, is a short motorbike ride away. 7 Hon Tre Dominated by a 600-ft (180-m) hill, Hon Tre or Bamboo Island is the largest of the islands near Nha Trang. On the northeast coast, the white sands of Bai Tru Beach are home to the luxurious Vinpearl Resort. 1 Dai Lanh At the northern end of a long sandy peninsula, Dai Lanh is an idyllic, practically deserted, casuarina-lined beach. q Hon Mun Renowned for the best snorkeling in the archi pel ago, the reefs around Hon Mun are sadly poorly protected from the local fishing fleet. Sights at a Glance 1 Dai Lanh Beach 2 Hon Ong (Whale Island) 3 Doc Let 4 Jungle Beach 5 Hon Lao (Monkey Island) 6 Hon Chong (see p114) 7 Hon Tre (Bamboo Island) 8 Hon Mieu (see p114) 9 Hon Tam 0 Hon Mot q Hon Mun (Ebony Island) For keys to symbols see back flap 2 Hon Ong Sheltered by Van Phong Bay, Hon Ong, or Whale Island, is isolated, pristine, and known for fine diving. Van Gia Ninh Hoa Nha Trang Ninh Tinh Thuy Dam Vinh Yen Hai Trieu V i n h Va n Phong 0 km 0 miles 10 10 The pristine waters of the picturesque Ebony Island, Vietnam The numerous beaches scattered along the sandy shoreline to the north of Nah Trang, together with the small archipelago of pretty islands that lies just out to sea, add significantly to this seaside resort's appeal. Several tour companies organize day tours and usually offer a seafood lunch and plenty of iced beer. At the quieter and less developed northern destinations such as Dai Lanh and Hon Lao – the latter populated by monkeys – activities include swimming, snorkeling, and sunbathing. More organized, and often raucous, entertainment, such as waterskiing, parasailing, and drinking at a floating bar, is to be expected at the islands of the archipelago. 114-115_EW_VTN.indd 115 14/07/16 4:42 pm 116-117_EW_VTN.indd 116 17/07/14 3:18 PM 116-117_EW_VTN.indd 117 17/07/14 3:18 PM For hotels and restaurants see pp238–9 and pp248–9 The bright interior of Dalat Cathedral 6 Dalat In the mid-1890s, the physician Alexandre Yersin (see p112) visited Dalat and recommended it as a suitable location for a hill station and sanatorium. By 1910, the town had become a popular summer retreat for French colonists seeking a cool escape from the heat of the plains. Today, Dalat draws tens of thousands of Vietnamese honeymooners and holidaymakers, many of whom come to see the Valley of Love and Lake of Sighs, although such kitsch sights are of little interest to foreign visitors. Besides the fresh air and beautiful scenery, Dalat appeals to many for its fresh produce, wine, great food, and ethnic crafts. A short drive from Dalat are the Dambri, Elephant, Tiger, Datanla, and Pongour falls. Y Xuan Huong Lake This crescent-shaped lake located right in the center of town was created by a dam in 1919 and rapidly became the central promenade for the Dalat bourgeoisie. Once called Le Grand Lac by the French, it was later renamed in honor of Ho Xuan Huong (see p19), the celebrated 18th-century Vietnamese female poet whose name means Essence of Spring. Paddling around the waters in a swan-shaped pedal-boat or a more traditional kayak is the most popular activity on the lake. A pleasant walk or cycle along the 4-mile (7-km) shore passes the town’s Flower Gardens on the north shore. Swan-shaped pedal-boats on Xuan Huong Lake The exterior of Nga’s Crazy House, built to resemble gnarled treetrunks 5 Dalat Cathedral Tran Phu and Le Dai Hanh sts. Tel (063) 382 1421. Open daily. Mass 5am, 5:15pm daily; additional services on Sundays. Dedicated to St Nicholas and adding yet another French touch to this Gallic-inspired hill station, Dalat’s Catholic catheP Hang Nga (Nga’s Crazy House) 3 Huynh Thuc Khang St. Tel (063) 382 2070. Open 8:30am–7pm daily. & ∑ crazyhouse.vn The “Crazy House,” as this striking guesthouse is called by locals, epitomizes every thing visitors to Dalat either love or hate. This flight of fancy is constructed of wood and wire, then covered with concrete to form a tree house. With giant toadstools, over sized cobwebs, tunnels, and ladders, it is a monstros ity to some and a charming mini ature Disneyland to others, especially children. For a small fee, visitors can poke around unoccupied rooms, including one in the belly of a concrete giraffe. Dr Dang Viet Nga, the owner and architect, is the daughter of the former senior Communist Party hardliner Truong Chinh, who was also briefly the General Secretary of the party in 1986. Lam Ty Ni Pagoda 2 Thien My St. Tel (063) 382 2775. Open 8:30am–6:30pm daily. This pagoda is very much suited to the atmosphere of eccentricity and questionable taste that surrounds many of Dalat’s attractions. The building itself is unremarkable in the traditional sense, but has been extended and transformed by the pagoda’s solitary inhabitant, the charming Buddhist monk Thay Vien Thuc. He has lived here since 1964, long accompanied by a pack of amiable dogs who bark loudly at new arrivals. When dral was established to meet the spiritual needs of the colonists and the many local converts. Construction began in 1931 and was not complete until the Japanese invasion of the 1940s, an event which signaled the beginning of the end of French Indochina. The church boasts a 155-ft (47-m) spire and vivid stained-glass windows manufactured in 1930s France. 118 VIETNAM AREA BY AREA 118-119_EW_VTN.indd 118 14/07/16 4:37 pm P Bao Dai’s Summer Palace 1 Trieu Viet Vuong St. Tel (063) 382 6858. Open 7am–5pm daily. The last Nguyen Emperor, Bao Dai (see p47), regarded as a powerless puppet of the French, lived in Dalat from 1938 until 1945 with his wife, Empress Nam Phuong, and various members of his family and immediate entourage. He spent much of his time hunting and womanizing. The Summer Palace was constructed in 1933–8 in a curious, semi-nautical Art Nouveau style, and, with just 25 rooms, it is far from palatial. Although only a faded sense of grandeur is in evidence here, the palace remains popular with tourists who browse the memorabilia on display, which include Bao Dai’s desk and an etchedglass map of Vietnam. Thien Vuong Pagoda 2.5 miles (4 km) from the center of Dalat on Khe Sanh St. A more orthodox pagoda than Lam Ty Ni, Thien Vuong was built by the local Chinese community in 1958. This hilltop pagoda, which has monks in residence, comprises three low, wooden buildings set attractively amid pine trees. In the main sanctuary stand three big sandalwood statues, with Thich Ca, the Historical Buddha, forming the centerpiece. Stalls selling local jams, dried fruits, and artichoke tea line the path leading up to the pagoda. E Lam Dong Museum 4 Hung Vuong St. Tel (063) 381 2624. Open 7:30–11:30am, 1:30–4:30pm Mon–Sat. & The wide range of artifacts on display traces the rich history of Dalat and its surroundings. Exhibits include pottery from the Funan and Champa kingdoms, musical instruments, costumes of local ethnic minorities, and photographs. The museum is located in front of an elegant French-style villa, which was built for Bao Dai’s father-in-law, Nguyen Huu Hao, in 1935, Dalat 1 Xuan Huong Lake 2 Dalat Cathedral 3 Hang Nga (Nga’s Crazy House) 4 Lam Ty Ni Pagoda 5 Bao Dai’s Summer Palace 6 Dalat Train Station 7 Lam Dong Museum 8 Thien Vuong Pagoda Bronze Buddha, Thien Vuong Pagoda £ Dalat Train Station 1 Quang Trung St, off Nguyen Trai St. Tel (063) 383 4409. Departures: 4–5 times daily (if sufficient passengers.) & Built in 1932 in imitation of the station at Deauville in France, the Dalat Train Station retains its original Art Deco design. Bombing during the Vietnam War (see pp48–9) closed the line to Phan Rang, but a Russian engine travels a picturesque 5-mile (8-km) route to the village of Trai Mat. and later became the home of Bao Dai’s wife, Empress Nam Phuong. not reading or writing Zen poetry, he casts concrete busts, usually of himself. This industrious monk is also a prolific painter and creates dreamlike landscapes and strange interpretations of the Buddhist religion and the cosmos. It is said that he makes a healthy profit selling his work. For keys to symbols see back flap VISITORS’ CHECKLIST Practical Information Road Map C5.191 miles (308 km) N of Ho Chi Minh City. * 207,000. n Dalat Travel Service, 7, 3 Thang 2 St, (063) 700 8994. ∑ namcattien.vn Transport ~ @ SOUTH CENTRAL VIETNAM 119 0 meters 0 yards 750 750 Valley of Love Chicken Village Cabale Car 650 m Lat Village Lake of Sighs Datanla Falls Bao Dai’s Summer Palace Lam Ty Ni Pagoda Nga’s Crazy House & Art Gallery Dalat Cathedral Xuan Huong Lake Thien Vuong Pagoda Dalat Train Station Lam Dong Museum Pasteur Institute Dalat Central Market Stadium Grand Lycee Yersin HAN THUYEN TRAN BINH T RONG YET KIEU YAGOUT THI SACH NG UYEN CHI THANH DOAN THI DIEM HA HUY T A P HO TUNG MAU D ONG TAM LE LAI HOAN G D I EU K H O I NGHIA BAC S O N LE HONGP H O N G LE HONG P H O N G BA TRI E U NGUYEN CON G TR U DINH T I E N H O A N G HAI BA TRUNG PHAM HONG THAI DAO DUY ANH K HE S A N H HAI THU O N G M AI H A C D E P H A N D I N H P HU N G 3 THANG 2 HUNG VUO N G TRA N H U N G D A O T RAN PHU HOA N G VAN THU B U I T H I XU A N BA H U Y EN T H A N H Q U A N NGU Y EN T RA I V E R S I N TRAN QOC TOAN 3 TH AN G 4 H O AN G H O A THAM BA HUYEN TH ANH QUAN 118-119_EW_VTN.indd 119 14/07/16 4:37 pm 120 VIETNAM AREA BY AREA For hotels and restaurants see pp238–9 and pp248–9 A typical house in one of the hamlets at Lat Village The enormous concrete cockerel that gave Chicken Village its name ( Dalat Central Market Town center. Open daily. - 0 = Nestled in the lee of a tall hillside and surrounded by rows of cafés, Dalat Central Market is among the largest in the country. The stairs and ramps leading to the market are flanked with food vendors selling grilled corn, meat on skewers, sweet potatoes, hot soy milk, and sweet waffles stuffed with pork and cheese. The second floor of the central building is also devoted to food stalls. } Datanla Falls 3 miles (5 km) S of Dalat, Hwy 20. Tel (063) 383 2238. Open daily. & Set in the pine-forested hills to the southwest of Dalat, Datanla Falls are only a short distance from town, and a pleasant 15-minute walk from Highway 20. The falls, which tumble down a ravine in two cascades, are a popular destination for Vietnamese tourists, especially as there is also a rollercoaster ride. It is not worth making the visit during the dry season. } Dambri and Bo Bla Falls Dambri: 52 miles (85 km) SW of Dalat, off Hwy 20; Bo Bla: 50 miles (80 km) SW of Dalat on Hwy 28. Open 7am–5pm daily. & The most spectacular and easily accessible falls in South Central Vietnam are at Dambri, where the water cascades down a 295- ft (90-m) drop. It is a steep climb down but there is an elevator to carry the less energetic up and down in a few minutes. Above the falls, there is a small lake where boat rides are available. A visit to Dambri Falls can easily be combined with a stop en route at Bo Bla Falls, another beauty spot just south of Di Linh. The Dalat Cable Car, overlooking the Langbiang Plateau } Dalat Cable Car and Thien Vien Truc Lam 2 miles (3 km) S of Dalat, off 3 Thang 4 St/Hwy 20. Open 7:30–11:30am, 1:30– 5pm daily. & The Dalat Cable Car hangs across 1.5 miles (2.4 km) of picturesque villages, farmland, and mountain forests all the way to Thien Vien Truc Lam, or P Chicken Village 11 miles (18 km) S of Dalat just off Hwy 20. = Renowned for the large and rather bizarre statue of a cockerel that stands at its center, Chicken Village, known locally as Lang Ga, draws a large number of P Lat Village 6 miles (10 km) N of Dalat. Made up of a number of small hamlets, Lat Village is inhabited mainly by members of the Lat ethnic minority, part of the K’ho tribe, but also by other local minority peoples, including the Ma and Chill. The villagers, once impoverished, are now better off as a result of tourism. The attraction here is the local weaving and embroidery. Visitors are offered cups of hot green tea to drink while they watch the village women at work on their looms. There are some fine bargains and the people are friendly, but be prepared to haggle. sightseers. It is inhabited by the K’ho people, who eke out a living growing fruit and coffee, and making textiles. The village lies just off the highway between Dalat and the coast, and tour buses stop regularly to allow visitors to watch the K’ho women weave and to buy their wares. As a result of their regular dealings with foreign tourists, the women of the village speak remarkably good English. Bamboo Forest Meditation Center. This Zen monastery was built in 1993 and houses about 180 monks and nuns. The temple overlooks Paradise Lake, which offers an abundance of free picnic tables and chairs. 120-121_EW_VTN.indd 120 14/07/16 4:42 pm SOUTH CENTRAL VIETNAM 121 Farmers working in the fields beside picturesque Lak Lake A thriving coffee plantation at Buon Ma Thuot 7 Lak Lake Road Map C5. 20 miles (32 km) S of Buon Ma Thuot on Hwy 27. n Dak Lak Tourist, 3 Phan Chu Trinh, (0500) 384 2246. 0 - ∑ namcattien.vn Lying in the center of the picturesque Dak Lak Plateau, this large, serene freshwater lake was once a favorite retreat of former Emperor Bao Dai, who built one of his hunting lodges on its banks. Although the surrounding hills have been largely stripped of forest, there are still spectacular views across the lake. The area is an excellent place to stop for refreshments on the mountain highway between Buon Ma Thuot and Dalat, and an increasing number of visitors, mostly on Easy Rider motorbike tours, come here. The people living around Lak Lake are mainly from the Central Highland’s Mnong minority. 8 Buon Ma Thuot Road Map C5. 118 miles (194 km) NE of Nha Trang. * 300,000. ~ n 9 Nguyen Tat Thanh St, (0500) 351 7779. ∑ daktip.com.vn The capital of the Central Highlands province of Dak Lak, Buon Ma Thuot makes a great base for exploring the remote lakes, rainforests, waterfalls, and hilltribe villages of the surrounding areas. The government claims that ethnic Vietnamese, or Kinh, now make up the majority of the local population, but the indigenous minority peoples, the Ede and Mnong, still live in villages throughout the province. The Ede call the capital Buon Ma Thuot and the Mnong call it Ban Me Thuot; both names translate as “Village of the Father of Thuot.” The town is Vietnam’s coffee capital, and its high production levels boost the country’s position as a coffee exporter, ranking it second only to Brazil. The coffee plantations here are interesting to visit. However, there are concerns over the welfare of elephants used in this area to offer rides to tourists; these are best avoided. Buon Ma Thuot is also significant for being the site of the last major battle of the Vietnam War on March 10, 1975. The Victory Monument in the center of town features a replica of the first North Vietnamese Army tank to enter the city during the invasion. It is set on a plinth to commemorate the town’s liberation. In addition, there is the interesting Dak Lak Ethnology Museum on Nguyen Du. After an extensive renovation and expansion, the museum is now housed in a large concrete building which has been designed like a traditional tribal home. It is a good place to gain an insight into the culture, traditions, and handicrafts of the local Ede and Mnong peoples and the various other hill tribes of the region. E Dak Lak Ethnology Museum 182 Nguyen Du St. Tel (0500) 385 0426. Open 7am–5pm daily. & Environs Tur, a small village lying 9 miles (14 km) southwest of Buon Ma Thuot, is inhabited by members of the Ede minority. Their society is matrialineal so property is always owned by the women. After marriage, men move into their wives’ homes and the houses are extended. The longhouses are built on stilts, providing a space beneath the living quarters to store firewood and house a variety of domesticated animals, such as goats, pigs, and fowl. Because of its proximity to Buon Ma Thuot and Highway 14, Tur is easily accessible and is a good place to see Ede longhouses. The village is located near the mighty Dak Krong, or Serepok River, which flows into Cambodia. A visit to Tur can easily be combined with a trip to the impressive Trinh Nu rapids nearby. Farther upstream, Dray Nur, Dray Sap, and Gia Long falls lead the visitor into wilder territory. Ako Dong Village, situated just a mile (1.5 km) north of the city center also has a number of impressive Ede longhouses. 120-121_EW_VTN.indd 121 14/07/16 4:42 pm 122 VIETNAM AREA BY AREA For hotels and restaurants see pp238–9 and pp248–9 Grand Thap Doi Cham surrounded by a manicured garden, Quy Nhon Steep-roofed nha rong or communal house in Kontum 0 Kontum Road Map C4. 125 miles (200 km) NE of Quy Nhon. * 150,000. @ n Kontum Travel Service, 2 Phan Dinh Phung St, (060) 386 1626. ∑ komtumprovince.info This remote, laid-back town receives relatively few visitors, yet rewards are plentiful for anyone prepared to wander this far. Despite being heavily bombed during the Vietnam War, Kontum has retained two beautiful French-colonial wooden churches and a few French-style shopfronts. As the town has few attractions of its own, most visitors come here to explore the surrounding countryside and the many minority villages, remarkable for their trademark nha rong or communal houses. At the east side of town, the Seminary Museum, within an old French Catholic semin ary, displays minority handicrafts and clothing. Ethnic groups, including Jarai, Sedang, Rongao, and Bahnar (see p24), inhabit villages in the region, many of which can be easily accessed from Kontum. Within walking distance, the Bahnar village of Kon Kotu is about 3 miles (5 km) east of town. This community’s nha rong is made entirely of bamboo 9 Yok Don National Park Road Map C5. 26 miles (40 km) NW of Buon Ma Thuot. Tel (0500) 378 3028. @ Bus or minibus from Buon Ma Thuot. & 8 0 - = ∑ yokdonnationalpark.vn The largest of Vietnam’s national parks, Yok Don covers almost 470 sq miles (1,200 sq km), extending along the Cambodian frontier and cut through by the mighty Dak Krong or Serepok River. The park is home to leopards, tigers, and wild elephants, but of the 67 species of mammal, no fewer than 38 are endangered, and the chances of seeing any of the larger mammals are slight. The once large herds of wild elephants have diminished to fewer than 20 animals, and the number is dropping rapidly. Half-day treks include a visit to a Mnong village, the main attraction for most visitors to the park. Shops selling handicrafts and sealed pots of a local rice liquor known as ruou can, complete with bamboo drinking straws, are clustered around the park’s entrance. Accommodation is also available here. Just beyond the northern limits of the park, and difficult to access without a private vehicle and government guide, Thap Yang Prong is the most remote of all Vietnam’s Cham towers, and an indica tion of where the outposts and settlements of the former Kingdom of Champa during the 13th and 14th centuries were. and wood, and boasts an immensely tall thatched roof typical of Bahnar design. Kon Hongo is 2.5 miles (4 km) to the west of Kontum and is peopled by the Rongao minority. Both journeys take visitors through pleasant countryside of sugarcane and cassava fields. E Seminary Museum 56 Tran Hung Dao St. Open 7:30– 10:30am, 2–4pm Mon–Fri. & q Quy Nhon Road Map C5. 137 miles (220 km) N of Nha Trang. * 285,000. ~ £ @ n 183 Le Hong Phong, (056) 381 8909. ∑ binhdinhtravel.com.vn. A substantial fishing port with reasonable beaches, Quy Nhon sees few visitors barring those who overnight here to break the trip between Nha Trang and Hoi An. Long Khan Pagoda, Quy Nhon’s most revered Buddhist temple, is located right in the center of town on Tran Cao Van Street. Dating back to the early 18th century, it is dedicated to Thich Ca, the Historical Buddha. The temple receives much less interest than the many ancient Cham temples surrounding Quy Nhon. There is a busy beach in town, but better stretches of 122-123_EW_VTN.indd 122 14/07/16 4:42 pm SOUTH CENTRAL VIETNAM 123 Buddha statues and offerings, Long Khan Pagoda, Quy Nhon sand are located about 3 miles (5 km) to the south, including Quy Hoa Beach. The Thap Doi Cham or Double Cham Towers, thought to date from the second half of the 12th century, are just 1 mile (1.6 km) west of the town center. This is a good place to see Vietnamese martial arts; there are many dojos in and around the city (these are listed on the website). Environs One of the major surviving works of Cham architecture and in a remarkably good state, Banh It, or Silver Tower, stands on a hilltop near Highway 1, about 12 miles (20 km) north of Quy Nhon. Farther north along Highway 1 are the few remains of Cha Ban, once called Vijaya and capital of the Cham principality of the same name. Founded in AD 1000, the city was razed to the ground in 1470 by the Dai Viets, signal ling the end of Champa as a kingdom. Only the walls of the citadel and the Can Tien Cham Towers still stand. e Quang Ngai Road Map C4. 110 miles (177 km) N of Quy Nhon. * 122,000. £ @ n Quang Ngai Tourist, 310 Quang Trung St, (055) 383 7577. ∑ quangngaitourist.com.vn This sleepy provincial capital is a hidden gem, with ancient archaeological finds within a short driving distance. Environs Son My was the site of the appalling My Lai Massacre of 1968 and a chilling Memorial Park has been set up in the subhamlet of Tu Cung. A dark, granite museum documents the events in horrific detail. On display are the photographs of the atrocity that shocked the world and contributed sub stantially to American disillu sionment with the war. Motorbike taxis in Quang Ngai make the 9mile (15km) trip east to Son My. Five miles (8 km) northeast of Quang Ngai, the 1,200 yearold Chau Sa citadel is evidence that the Cham once controlled the area. Closer to the western mountains, an ancient wall stretches some 79 miles (127 km). It was apparently built in 1819 by the Vietnamese for security and trade regulation between the Hre minority and the Viets. Roof detail, Long Khan Pagoda, Quy Nhon around 2,000 years ago. In 1909, 200 burial jars were unearthed, the first of many more finds in the area. Unfortunately, no artifacts of this bronzeage society are accessible to the public here, but the remains can be viewed in the National Museum of Vietnamese History in Hanoi (see pp166–7), and at the Museum of Sa Huynh Culture in Hoi An (see p129). The town’s laidback atmosphere is what really attracts visitors. The beach is relatively deserted, and the waves are sufficiently powerful for surfing. Sa Huynh is also a great place for seafood. My Lai massacre During the Vietnam War, the area around Quang Ngai was considered sympathetic to the Vietcong. On March 16, 1968, a strong force of US infantry moved into the area seeking revenge for the deaths of several colleagues in the district. Over the next 4 hours, in the worst documented US war crime of the Vietnam War, about 500 Vietnamese civilians were systematically murdered, half of them women and children, as the US soldiers ran out of control. Lieutenant William Calley, who organized the massacre, was convicted of murder but was released a few years later pending appeal on the orders of President Nixon. No others were ever convicted. wSa Huynh Road Map C4. 37 miles (60 km) S of Quang Ngai. * 50,000. @_ Seafood Catching Festival (early May). Known for its palmfringed beach and salt pans, this attractive little fishing port is most celebrated as the site of the preChampa culture of Sa Huynh, which flourished The moving My Lai Massacre Memorial at Son My near Quang Ngai 122-123_EW_VTN.indd 123 14/07/16 4:42 pm 124-125_EW_VTN.indd 124 14/07/16 4:42 pm Flecked with rice paddies and home to a burgeoning fishing industry, the inhabited regions of Central Vietnam are largely limited to its narrow coastal strip. The unspoiled hinterland gives way to the dramatic peaks of the Truong Son Range, which divide Viet nam from Laos. The region is home to hill people, as well as to the Hai Van Pass, one of the most scenic vantage points in the country, and Phong Nha-Ke Bang National Park, which has some of the world’s biggest caves. Some of the country’s most outstanding architectural legacies are located in Central Vietnam. Among them, Hoi An still houses exquisite structures built by Chinese, Japanese, and French traders, dating as far back as the 16th century, while Hue, with its grand Citadel and Royal Tombs, stands as an abiding memory of the Nguyen Dynasty (1802–1945). In ruins, but just as evocative, is the Cham temple complex at My Son, which was constructed between the 4th and 12th cen turies AD. Most of these sites still bear traces of the damage they suffered during the Vietnam War. Of more current histori cal interest are the villages – and now national shrines – of Hoang Tru and Kim Lien where Ho Chi Minh spent part of his childhood, as well as the former Demilitar ized Zone (DMZ). Not far north of Hue, the DMZ witnessed some of the blood iest battles of the Vietnam War and stands as a grim reminder of the vicious struggle of that era. Battle sites such as Khe Sanh and Vinh Moc have become poignant places of pilgrimage and mourning for both the Vietnamese and Americans. Four of the Nine Dynastic Urns, each of which commemorates an emperor, Hue Citadel CENTRAL VIETNAM Bound by the forested peaks of the Truong Son Range to the west, with the white shores of the South China Sea to its east, Central Vietnam is a study in contrasts. It offers several fine beaches as well as a rare assortment of historical treasures, including four of Vietnam’s UNESCO World Heritage Sites, namely the awe-inspiring Phong Nha-Ke Bang National Park, My Son, Hue Citadel, and the Old Quarter of Hoi An. CENTRAL VIETNAM 125 Ruins of ancient Hindu temples at My Son, near Hoi An 124-125_EW_VTN.indd 125 14/07/16 4:42 pm Dien Chau Quy Nhon Pleiku QUANG NAM DANANG THUA THIEN HUE QUANG TRI QUANG BINH HA TINH Ngoc Linh 2,598 m Hai Van Pass Cham Islands Son Tra Peninsula Tranh Thu Bon Ben Hai Long Dai Gianh Cai G u l f o f T o n k i n Dong Ha Phu Loc Quang Tri Lao Biao Vinh Linh Gio Linh Tam Ky Tien Ky Tra My Nui Thanh Kham Duc Phuoc Son Ha Lam Hien Van Vinh Thanh A Luoi Dai Loc Dai Lanh Prao Thanh My Ky Anh Cam Xuyen Ha Tinh Hong Linh Cay Huong Khe Thanh Hoa Duc Tho Pho Chau Tay Son Nghen Khe Ve Pheo Hoa Lac Ba Don Bo Trach Hoa Binh Cu Hoa Ba Chieng Phu Ban Ban Xuan Duc Kien Giang Nam Dan Vinh LANG CO BEACH SUOI VOI THUAN AN BEACH VINH MOC TUNNELS DONG HOI KIM LIEN PHONG NHA-KE BANG NATIONAL PARK DEMILITARIZED ZONE KHE SANH COMBAT BASE CHINA BEACH BA NA HILL STATION BACH MA NATIONAL PARK DANANG HOI AN MY SON HUE Exploring Central Vietnam Home to some of the most spellbinding historic sites in the country, Central Vietnam’s natural beauty is no less compel ling. On the drive between Hue and Danang, the Hai Van Pass, surrounded by rolling hills and green valleys, offers the most spec tac ular views. As a base for exploring north of the pass, the old imperial city of Hue is elegant and the most convenient; nearby the small town of Lang Co has one of the best beaches in the region. North of Hue, the Demilitarized Zone evokes a tumultuous past, while the Phong Nha-Ke Bang National Park offers tranquil and scenic surroundings. South of the Hai Van Pass, both Hoi An and My Son are steeped in history and filled with centuriesold architec tural marvels. The ornate interior of the House of Phung Hung (see p128), Hoi An 126 VIETNAM AREA BY AREA Key Major road Minor road Railroad International border Provincial border Towns and Cities 1 Hoi An pp128–33 4 Ba Na Hill Station 5 Danang 0 Hue pp142–9 r Dong Hoi y Kim Lien Historic and Military Sites 2 My Son pp134–6 q Khe Sanh Combat Base w Demilitarized Zone (DMZ) Beaches 3 China Beach 8 Lang Co Beach 9 Thuan An Beach Sights at a Glance Areas of Natural Beauty 7 Suoi Voi National Parks 6 Bach Ma National Park t Phong Nha-Ke Bang National Park Tunnels e Vinh Moc Tunnels 0 km 0 miles 25 25 For hotels and restaurants see p239 and pp249–50 126-127_EW_VTN.indd 126 14/07/16 4:37 pm Dien Chau Quy Nhon Pleiku QUANG NAM DANANG THUA THIEN HUE QUANG TRI QUANG BINH HA TINH Ngoc Linh 2,598 m Hai Van Pass Cham Islands Son Tra Peninsula Tranh Thu Bon Ben Hai Long Dai Gianh Cai G u l f o f T o n k i n Dong Ha Phu Loc Quang Tri Lao Biao Vinh Linh Gio Linh Tam Ky Tien Ky Tra My Nui Thanh Kham Duc Phuoc Son Ha Lam Hien Van Vinh Thanh A Luoi Dai Loc Dai Lanh Prao Thanh My Ky Anh Cam Xuyen Ha Tinh Hong Linh Cay Huong Khe Thanh Hoa Duc Tho Pho Chau Tay Son Nghen Khe Ve Pheo Hoa Lac Ba Don Bo Trach Hoa Binh Cu Hoa Ba Chieng Phu Ban Ban Xuan Duc Kien Giang Nam Dan Vinh LANG CO BEACH SUOI VOI THUAN AN BEACH VINH MOC TUNNELS DONG HOI KIM LIEN PHONG NHA-KE BANG NATIONAL PARK DEMILITARIZED ZONE KHE SANH COMBAT BASE CHINA BEACH BA NA HILL STATION BACH MA NATIONAL PARK DANANG HOI AN MY SON HUE For keys to symbols see back flap CENTRAL VIETNAM 127 Getting Around The best way to travel around Central Vietnam is to rent a car but if this is not feasible, the minibus services are the next best option. These ferry travelers from one destination to the other and are useful for day-trips such as to the DMZ, out of Hue, or the Hai Van Pass on the way to Hue. Visitors can also get around by train, using the Reunification Express between Ho Chi Minh City and Hanoi. At Hoi An and Hue, visitors can explore by renting a bike or walking. Even better is a breathtaking boat trip down the Perfume River from the wharf by Le Loi Street. Hotels and tour operators organize these tours. Vibrantly colored dragon boats along the banks of the Perfume River (see p152), Hue Exhibit at the Museum of Cham Sculpture (see p138), Danang 126-127_EW_VTN.indd 127 14/07/16 4:37 pm 128 VIETNAM AREA BY AREA Colorful images of Chinese deities, House of Phung Hung P House of Phung Hung 4 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai St. Tel (0510) 386 2235. Open 8am–7pm daily. 8 = Built in 1780, this house has been home to the same family for eight generations. The clan Located on the north bank of the Thu Bon River, the picturesque historic town of Hoi An was an important trading port from the 16th to the 18th century. Attracting traders from China, Japan, and even Europe, the town acquired a rich cultural heritage, rivaled by few other cities in Vietnam. Designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1999, Hoi An features long, narrow tube houses (see p31), Chinese pagodas and ornate community halls, family shrines, and the Japanese Covered Bridge. There is also a restored small FrenchColonial quarter southeast of Hoi An. 1 Hoi An P Japanese Covered Bridge Intersection of Tran Phu and Nguyen Thi Minh Khai Sts. Open sunrise– sunset daily. One of the town’s most prominent landmarks, this rustcolored bridge (see p130) was constructed in 1593 by the made its fortune in perfumed woods and spices, and maintain the same by selling souvenirs to tourists. Supported by 80 hardwood columns, the house shows a distinct Chinese influence in the galleries and window shutters. Japanese influence is evident in the glass skylights, while the general layout and design of the house is very much Vietnamese in style. prosperous Japanese trading community, who were based on the west side of the town, in order to link it with the Chinese quarter farther to the east. However, in 1663, the Tokugawa Shogun Iemitsu issued edicts forbidding the Japanese from trading abroad, thus bringing the community to an abrupt end. In 1719, a Vietnamese temple was built into the northern section of the structure. Although a new name for the bridge, Lai Vien Kieu or Bridge from Afar, was carved over the temple door, locals continue to call it the Japanese Bridge. An effigy of Bac De, a reincarnation of the Taoist deity, the Jade Emperor, dominates the altar. The bridge, A shrine to the Tao god, Bac De, Japanese Covered Bridge For keys to symbols see back flap Key Street-by-Street area: See pp130–31 Hoi An 1 House of Phung Hung 2 Japanese Covered Bridge 3 Cantonese (Quang Dong) Assembly Hall 4 Museum of Sa Huynh Culture 5 House of Tan Ky 6 House of Quan Thang 7 Tran Family Chapel 8 Museum of Trading Ceramics 9 Phuc Kien Assembly Hall 0 Quan Cong Pagoda q Hainan Chinese Assembly Hall w Central Market e Hoi An Artcraft Manufacturing Workshop 0 meters 0 yards 400 400 MY SON DANANG Cua Dai Beach Tran Family Chapel Museum of Trading Ceramics Hainan Chinese Assembly Hall Quan Cong Pagoda Phuc Kien Assembly Hall House of Quang Thang Hoi An Artcraft Manufacturing Workshop Central Market House of Tan Ky Quang Dong Assembly Hall Museum of Sa Japanese Huynh Culture Covered Bridge House of Phung Hung T R A N H U N G D AO P H A N D I N H P H U N G T R A N H U N G D AO P H A N C H U T R I N H T R A N P H U NGUYEN THI MINH KHAI NGUYEN DUY HIEU NGUYEN THAI HOC PHAN BOI CHAU B A C H D A N G TRAN QUY CAP NGUYEN HUE N H I T R U N G H O AN G DI EU L E L O I T h u B o n R i v e r Cam Nam Bridge An Hoi Footbridge AN HOI ISLAND 128-129_EW_VTN.indd 128 14/07/16 4:42 pm HOI AN 129 For hotels and restaurants see p239 and pp249–50 Carved wooden brackets in a courtyard, House of Tan Ky E Museum of Sa Huynh Culture 149 Tran Phu St. Tel (0510) 386 1535. Open 8am–5pm daily. & The small port of Sa Huynh (see p123), some 99 miles (160 km) south of the historic town of Hoi An, was the site of an eponymous prehistoric culture (1000 BC–AD 200). In 1909, more than 200 burial jars, filled with bronze tools, ornaments, and the remains of the dead, were unearthed from here. These fascinating artifacts, characterized by a very distinctive style of bronze work can now be admired in the small museum, which is housed in a fine Franco-Vietnamese building. Cantonese (Quang Dong) Assembly Hall 176 Tran Phu St. Open 7:30am–5pm daily. & Quang Dong is the Vietnamese name for the Chinese province of Guangdong, which was formerly known as Canton by Western countries. Built by seafaring merchants in 1786, this building is enlivened by bas-reliefs and colorful hangings. The main altar is dedicated to the great warrior Quan Cong (see p71), identifiable by his red face – emblematic of loyalty in Chinese society. Thien Hau, Goddess of the Sea, is also revered here. P House of Tan Ky 101 Nguyen Thai Hoc St. Tel (0510) 386 1474. Open 8am–noon, 2–4:30pm daily. & Perhaps the most celebrated of Hoi An’s many traditional abodes, the House of Tan Ky is an excellent representation of an authentic 18th-century P House of Quan Thang 77 Tran Phu St. Open 7:30am–5pm daily. & This one-story shophouse is a fine example of craftsmanship typical of Hoi An’s traditional dwellings. Dating from the 18th century, this house was built by a seafaring trader from Fujian in China, whose family have lived and prospered here for the last six generations. The house has a dark teak façade, and is roofed in curved Chinese-style tiles. It can be accessed via the shop front, which leads into an interior courtyard. The walls of this enclosure are adorned with stucco bas-reliefs of flowers and trees. Beyond this beautiful courtyard is a narrow terrace used for cooking purposes. The wooden windows and shutters are finely carved. which is roofed in grey tiles, combines grace and strength in its short span across a tiny tributary of the Thu Bon River. It is a convenient pedestrian link between the art galleries of Tran Phu Street to those in the western part of town. Despite undergoing many renovations, the bridge’s Japanese characteristics are intact. Woodwork detail, Cantonese Assembly Hall Tran Family Chapel 21D Le Loi St. Tel (0510) 386 1723. Open 7:30am–5pm daily. & This ancestral shrine was established more than two centuries ago to honor the forefathers of the Tran family. These venerable ancestors moved to Vietnam from China in the early 18th century, and eventually settled in Hoi An. The current descendants claim that they are the 13th generation since the migration from China. Over time, members of the family intermarried with local Vietnamese natives, and the chapel is appropriately hybrid (see p133). Artifacts belonging to the ancestors and memorial tablets decorate the main altar. A forefather who achieved the rank of mandarin is honored in a portrait in the reception hall of the chapel. Sino-Vietnamese shophouse style of construction. Built around a small courtyard, this structure, as is often the case in Hoi An, is an architectural hybrid. It carries fine Chinese crab-shell motifs on the ceiling, while its roof is supported by typically Japanese triple-beam joists. The floor is made with bricks imported from Bat Trang in the Red River Delta. Exquisite mother-of-pearl inlay Chinese poetry hangs from the columns that support the roof. VISITORS’ CHECKLIST Practical Information Road Map C4. 493 miles (793 km) S of Hanoi. * 120,000. _ Lantern Festival (every month). Ticketing System: Admission tickets for sights in the Old Quarter can be bought at the Tourist Office. ∑ hoian-tourism.com Transport @ from Danang. 4 n Hoi An Tourist Office, 591 Hai Ba Trung. MY SON DANANG Cua Dai Beach Tran Family Chapel Museum of Trading Ceramics Hainan Chinese Assembly Hall Quan Cong Pagoda Phuc Kien Assembly Hall House of Quang Thang Hoi An Artcraft Manufacturing Workshop Central Market House of Tan Ky Quang Dong Assembly Hall Museum of Sa Japanese Huynh Culture Covered Bridge House of Phung Hung T R A N H U N G D AO P H A N D I N H P H U N G T R A N H U N G D AO P H A N C H U T R I N H T R A N P H U NGUYEN THI MINH KHAI NGUYEN DUY HIEU NGUYEN THAI HOC PHAN BOI CHAU B A C H D A N G TRAN QUY CAP NGUYEN HUE N H I T R U N G H O AN G DI EU L E L O I T h u B o n R i v e r Cam Nam Bridge An Hoi Footbridge AN HOI ISLAND 128-129_EW_VTN.indd 129 14/07/16 4:42 pm Street-by-Street: Hoi An Old Quarter Possessing an impressive historical and cultural legacy, Hoi An is a mosaic of various cultures. Its Old Quarter is redolent of an ancient period, along with a sense of timelessness. Its historic buildings, attractive tube houses, and decorated Chinese community halls have earned it the status of a UNESCO World Heritage Site. In efforts to protect the Old Quarter’s character, stringent conservation laws prohibit alterations to buildings, as well as the presence of cars on its streets. In addition to its many monuments, the town has a wide array of delightful shops, offering almost everything Vietnam is famous for, as well as excellent roadside cafés. Combined with Hoi An’s laid-back ambience, this creates an ideal setting where visitors can relax and unwind. 130 VIETNAM AREA BY AREA For hotels and restaurants see p239 and pp249–50 Sino-Japanese interiors of the ancient Tran Family Chapel . Japanese Covered Bridge Symbolic of Hoi An and its rich mercantile past, this covered bridge was built in 1593 by the Japanese trading community to link them with the Chinese quarter in the eastern section of the town. Key Suggested route . Cantonese Assembly Hall Dating from 1885, this decorated community center is also known as the Quang Dong Assembly Hall (see p129). Traditional Chinese paintings, with images of divine storks and the Goddess of Mercy, are showcased here. The Museum of Sa Huynh Culture is set in a French-Colonial house, and displays funerary urns, jewelry, and ceramics belonging to a 2,000-year-old society that flourished around Hoi An. To Tran Family Chapel L E L O I S T R E E T T R A N P H U 0 meters 0 yards 50 50 130-131_EW_VTN.indd 130 14/07/16 4:42 pm HOI AN 131 Roadside Cafés The town’s numerous cafés and restaurants offer visitors inviting places to relax and enjoy a selection of appetizing dishes and great drinks. . House of Tan Ky This unique 18thcentury, two-story shophouse incorporates elements of Vietnamese, Chinese, and Japanese architectural design. Museum of Trading Ceramics The ceramic ware displayed here dates from between the 16th and 18th centuries, including pieces from China, Japan, and Southeast Asia. Phuc Kien Assembly Hall To Central Market Tran Phu 48 Tran Phu 77, a typical Hoi An tube house, has belonged to the same Fujian Chinese family for six generations. Bach Dang Street overlooking Hoi An’s Thu Bon River L E L O I S T R E E T Chinese Assembly Hall was built in 1740 to serve the local Chinese community. N G U Y E N T H A I H O C B A C H D A N G 130-131_EW_VTN.indd 131 14/07/16 4:42 pm 132 VIETNAM AREA BY AREA For hotels and restaurants see p239 and pp249–50 Phuc Kien Assembly Hall 46 Tran Phu St. Tel (0510) 386 1252. Open 7:30am–5pm daily. & A flamboyant building, this assem bly hall was founded by mer chants who had fled from the Chinese province of Fujian after the downfall of the Ming Dynasty in 1644. The temple complex is dedicated to Thien Hau, God dess of the Sea, who is regarded as the savior of sailors. She presides over the main altar in the first chamber, and is flanked by atten dants who are said to alert her whenever there is a shipwreck. To the right of the altar is a detailed model of a sailing junk, while in a chamber at the back, an altar honors the founding fathers who are represented by six seated figures. Quan Cong Pagoda 24 Tran Phu St. Open 7am–6pm daily. & Also known as Chua Ong, this pagoda was founded in 1653, and is dedicated to the 3rdcentury Chinese general, Quan Cong, a member of the Taoist ( Central Market Between Tran Phu and Bach Dang Sts. Open sunrise–sunset daily. Best visited in the morning, when the pace is not frantic, this lively market occupies two narrow streets that run south from Tran Phu to the banks of the Thu Bon River. There are stalls selling all kinds of fresh produce, kitchen utensils, and other equipment. To the east of the wharf is the market specializing in fresh seafood and meat. The main draws, though, are Hoi An’s popular fabric and cloth ing stores (see p256), which specialize in exquisite and inexpensive silks. Custom-made outfits can be ordered in less than a day. Hainan Chinese Assembly Hall 10 Tran Phu St. Open 8am–5pm daily. This assembly hall was built in 1875 by Hoi An’s immigrant community from Hainan Island in China. It is dedicated to the memory of 108 Hainanese seafarers killed by a renegade Vietnamese pirate-general in 1851. A lacquered board in the entry hall recounts their story in Chinese characters. One of the finest beaches of Vietnam, Cua Dai Beach E Museum of Trading Ceramics 80 Tran Phu St. Tel (0510) 386 2944. Open 7:30am–5pm daily. & Housed in a traditional timber shophouse, with balconies and wood paneling, this muse um is dedicated to Hoi An’s historic ceramic trade, which flourished from the 16th to 18th centuries. Many pieces on display were recov ered from shipwrecks, some near Cham Island off the mouth of Thu Bon River. E Hoi An Artcraft Manufacturing Workshop 9 Nguyen Thai Hoc St. Tel (0510) 391 0216. Open 7am–6pm daily. & Tue–Sun. Making lanterns at the Hoi An Artcraft Manufacturing Workshop The riotously colorful façade of Phuc Kien Assembly Hall pantheon. An impressive gilded statue of him presides over the main altar, accompa nied by two fierce-looking guardians, and a white horse, Quan Cong’s traditional mount. This handicrafts workshop specializes in the production of elegant lanterns, a specialty of Hoi An. These lanterns are handmade, using silk mounted on bamboo frames. Visitors can watch artisans at work, or make their own lanterns under expert supervision. Traditional recitals featuring the dan bau (see p28), a Vietnamese stringed musical instrument, are also staged in the workshop (10:15am and 3:15pm daily), and refreshments are available for visitors in the courtyard. L Cua Dai Beach 2.5 miles (4 km) E of Hoi An. Cua Dai Beach is most easily reached by cycling down Cua Dai Road. The white sands look out onto the islands of the Cham archipelago making it a popular destination. Some of Vietnam’s most attractive hotels such as the Victoria Hoi An Beach Resort and Spa (see p239), and Ancient House (see p239) line the route and front the beach. 132-133_EW_VTN.indd 132 14/07/16 4:42 pm HOI AN 133 Architectural Styles of Hoi An Hoi An developed most of its uniquely eclectic townscape between the 16th and 19th centuries. During most of this time, it was a major port open to several foreign influences. The Japanese established a community west of the Covered Bridge during the 16th century, while the Chinese founded many communities in the center and east of town in the 18th century. Japanese and Chinese influence can be seen on the town’s buildings. Later, the French left a distinct colo nial stamp on the southeastern part of town. Over the years, many elements of these diverse architectural styles blend ed harmoniously with indige nous Vietnamese features. Hoi An was relatively untouched by the Vietnam War, and so the old world charm is still in place. European-style balcony French louvered shutters Chinese roof Vietnamese eyes, also known as mat cua or watchful eyes, are intended to protect the building and its inhabitants from malevolent influences. French-Colonial architecture is reflected in the town’s colonnaded houses. Most are painted warm yellow, with blue or green woodwork, and have verandas, balconies, and wooden shutters. The Tran family chapel, which dates back more than two centuries, exhibits various Chinese and Vietnamese architectural elements, but is chiefly distinguished by its Japanesestyle, triplebeam roof joists. Cultural and Architectural Mix Hoi An’s is a unique architectural amalgamation, not seen elsewhere in the country. In particular, Japanese, Chinese, and French influences are evident in Vietnamese tube houses, which feature Chinese tiled roofs, Japanese support joists, and French louvered shutters and lampposts. The town is a mosaic of cultures and yet a synthesis of all the influences. The Chinese dragon is a mythical creature most closely associated with SinoVietnamese tradition, signifying continuity, power, stability, and prosperity. It is ubiquitous in Hoi An’s buildings. Vietnamese tube houses have two courtyards; an outer one to separate business from private quarters, and an inner one for the household’s women. Most of them are elaborately decorated with carved wood, stucco, or ceramic designs. 132-133_EW_VTN.indd 133 14/07/16 4:42 pm 2 My Son A reli gious center between the 4th and 13th centu ries, the Cham site of My Son became known to the world when French archaeologists rediscov ered it in the late 1890s. Traces of around 70 temples may still be found at My Son, though only about 20 are still in good condition. The monuments are divided into 11 groups, the most important of which are Groups B, C, and D (see p136). Group A was almost completely destroyed by US bombing during the Vietnam War. The most striking edifices are the famous Cham towers, which are divided into three parts: the base represents the earth, the center is the spiri tual world, and the top is the realm between earth and heaven. 134 VIETNAM AREA BY AREA For hotels and restaurants see p239 and pp249–50 Ruins at B4 Built in the architectural style of structures at Dong Duong, another Cham city, the ruins here feature reli gious images carved on stone pila sters and elaborately embel lished false doors. . Shiva Lingam in B1 A phallic symbol associated with Shiva, the lin gam is shown within or above the yoni, a symbol of the goddess. Water was poured over the lingam and flowed through a spout on the yoni to sym bolize creation. . B5 Tower This 10th-century tower at B5 was used as a repository for temple treasures. It shows traces of the architectural marvel it was, with a boat-shaped roof, carved pilasters, and fine reliefs of Gajalakshmi, Goddess of Prosperity. C1 Tower This kalan or sanctuary was dedicated to Shiva, depicted as a standing sculpture in human form. The image is displayed at the Museum of Cham Sculpture (see p138). KEY 1 Finely carved stone pillars belonging to the 8th century distinguish the ruins of B5. 2 The low walls separating Groups B and C are of fine brickwork secured with limestone. 134-135_EW_VTN.indd 134 14/07/16 4:42 pm CENTRAL VIETNAM 135 Key Area illustrated H . Deities on C1 The 8th-century celestial figures on C1 show dis tinct Javanese influence. The low wide belts worn by the figures are thought to be of Indian origin, and it is believed that the style came to Cham via Indonesia. Central Causeway A low, raised causeway extends between the two long halls of Group D that were once used as meditation chambers, as well as to receive guests and prepare offerings for the main shrines at Groups B and C. . Gallery at D2 The long hall of D2 has been transformed into a small museum showcasing sculptures saved from ruins of looted and bombdamaged shrines. It is sheltered by the addition of a modern roof. Cham Statues The exquisite statues (see p139) at My Son have been artistically carved out of brick and sandstone. A B C F E D G A’ VISITORS’ CHECKLIST Practical Information Road Map C4. 25 miles (40 km) SW of Hoi An. Tel (0510) 373 1757. Open 6:30am–4:30pm daily. & Carry a hat, sunscreen, and bottled water. Stay on welltrodden areas; this area was once mined. Transport @ from Hoi An and Danang. Plan of My Son Group A Group A’ Group B Group C Group D Group E Group F Group G Group H 0 meters 0 yards 500 500 0 meters 0 yards 30 30 134-135_EW_VTN.indd 135 14/07/16 4:42 pm 136 VIETNAM AREA BY AREA For hotels and restaurants see p239 and pp249–50 Groups A and A1 Said to be among My Son’s most impressive edifices, Groups A and A1 were almost completely destroyed by USAF bombing in 1969. Little remains beyond rubble, but there are plans for restoration. Records show that Group A once featured a striking tower, A1, said to have been the most impor tant kalan (sanctuary) here. Unlike most Cham temples that only face east, A1 also had a door to the west, usually associ ated with death. This may have served as a link with Cham kings said to be interred in Groups B, C, and D. Also noteworthy is A9, with its winding patterns. Groups E, F, G, and H Although the monuments in the northernmost reaches of the complex are the most damaged, they still offer fragments of beautiful craftsmanship. Built between the 8th and 11th centuries, Group E differs from the usual design of Cham temples. The main kalan has no vestibule, and only one temple faces eastwards. Adjoining it, Group F is badly damaged, but a finely carved lingam survives in the altar. The 11thcentury Group G has been restored over the last decade. Its tower’s base features basreliefs of Kala, God of Time. Group H is badly damaged, and a carved stone tympa num of a Dancing Shiva that once adorned the tem ple is now in the Museum of Cham Sculpture (see p138). Designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site, My Son is best visited in the early or late hours of the day to avoid the stream of visitors. Although centuries of pillage and more recent bombings have taken their toll, the ruins provide a glimpse into a fascinating Indianized culture. Evocative as the complex is, the groups of monuments are rather unimaginatively named after letters of the alphabet. The most important edifices at Group B are reached first, while Group C is less well preserved. To the east, the halls of Group D house displays of Cham sculpture, while Groups E, F, G, and H are currently undergoing restoration. Exploring My Son Groups B, C, and D Situated at the center of the complex, Group B is remarkable for exhibiting elements of both Indian and Javanese art. The main sanctuary, built in the 11th century, was dedicated to King Bhadravarman, who built the first temple at My Son in the 4th Sculpture of an apsara in D2 gallery Reconstruction of the once-spectacular Group A1 temple Carving of deity on the entrance Façade carvings made of brick Detail of gopuram or temple tower Stone pillars century, and to Shiva. One of the most unique structures in this group of monuments is B6, whose roof is decorated with an image of the Hindu god Vishnu being sheltered by a 13headed naga. Group C forms a contiguous complex with Group B, separated only by a brick wall. Its central tower, C1, combines many elements from the older structures, including the tympanum and lintel. Built in the late 8th century, C7 is a squat tower with a stone altar, and is an architectural link between the styles of the Cham cities of Hoa Lai and Dong Duong. Toward the east of Groups B and C, the mandapa or meditation halls of Group D are now galleries for sculpture. Shiva lingam, as well as statues of Shiva and Nandi are housed in D1, while D2 contains a stone Garuda, aDancing Shiva, and apsaras. Group C in a state of ruin at My Son 136-137_EW_VTN.indd 136 14/07/16 4:42 pm CENTRAL VIETNAM 137 Holiday resort set against the misted mountain tops of the Truong Son Range, Ba Na Hill Station 4 Ba Na Hill Station Road Map C4. 25 miles (40 km) W of Danang. & 0 - A conveniently close getaway from Danang, this old French hill station is set at an altitude of 4,593 ft (1,400 m), and is 3 China Beach Road Map C4. 3 miles (2 km) SE of Danang. 0 - = The long stretch of beaches between Danang and the Marble Mountains is known to the Vietnamese as the My Khe, My An, and Non Nuoc beaches. However, these white sandy shores were known to US servicemen as China Beach and were later highlighted by an epony mous popular TV series. Though banned by the government, a number of develo pers have taken to using the designation China Beach in an attempt to encourage foreign visitors. During the Vietnam War, the Americans – for whom Danang was among the most important and secure bases in South Vietnam – developed My Khe and My An beaches as a rest-and-recreation center for US forces taking a few days Saving My Son Some of the greatest nonhuman casualties of the Vietnam War were the archaeological sites at My Son and Dong Duong. The situation in the area was particularly grave during and after the Tet Offensive in 1968 (see p49), when massive bombing raids by the US resulted in widespread destruction. Previously, French archaeologists had listed around 70 structures at My Son. Only 20 escaped irreparable damage. Following this devastation, Philippe Stern, a leading authority on Cham history and art, complained bitterly to the US authorities, including President Richard Nixon. His attempts eventually bore fruit. In January 1971, the US ambassador was instructed by the US State Department to take all possible measures to preserve the historic site at My Son. Today, with aid from UNESCO, archaeologists are still struggling to piece together what remains of My Son. Fortunately, the French left detailed architectural drawings, but the task remains all but Street vendor selling snacks to visitors on impossible, and much of My Son has disappeared forever. China Beach often shrouded in clouds or mist. In its French heyday, during the early 20th century, it is said to have been home to more than 200 villas, as well as restaurants and clubs. Sadly, Ba Na’s glory days did not last long. Effec tively abandoned during the Indochina Wars, it soon fell into disrepair. However, the hill station has witnessed a resurgence of interest from the tourism authorities, and is being redeveloped into a vacation destination. Attractions include cliff-side resorts, karaoke bars, a cable-car ride, hikes to cascading waterfalls, views over Danang and the South China Sea, and the Linh Ung pagoda. Warning sign at My Son leave from the war. Today, nothing remains of the former R&R facilities, although several souvenir stalls and sea food restaurants have sprung up here. A number of upscale resorts have opened towards the south end of the beach. The beach is fast becoming a pop ular destination for surfing and swimming (see p264). Summer months are the safest as the sea can be quite choppy. 136-137_EW_VTN.indd 137 14/07/16 4:42 pm 138 VIETNAM AREA BY AREA For hotels and restaurants see p239 and pp249–50 Limestone promontories, Marble Mountains, Danang 5 Danang Road Map C4. 67 miles (108 km) S of Hue; 599 miles (964 km) N of HCMC. * 1,000,000. k ~ from Hanoi, HCMC, and Nha Trang. £ Reunification Express from Hanoi and HCMC. @ from Hanoi, Hue, HCMC, and Nha Trang. n Danang Tourism, 32A Phan Dinh Phung, (0511) 386 3595. ∑ tourism.danang.vn Situated almost halfway along the country’s coastline, on the western bank of the Han River, Danang is one of the fastest-changing places in Vietnam. It is the fifth largest but third most important city. Though not a major destina tion in its own right, Danang is an excellent hub for exploring several nearby attractions, and is very well connec ted, with an organized air, road, and rail infrastructure linking it to points north and south. Three of Vietnam’s world heritage sites – Hoi An (see pp128–33), My Son (see pp134–6), and Hue Citadel (see pp144–7) – as well as scenic beaches are within easy reach of the city. The city became prominent during the 19th century. After being captured by the French in 1859, it rapidly dev eloped, re placing Hoi An as the main port for Central Viet nam. Further expansion took place during the Vietnam War Buddhist college for training monks and nuns. Danang’s newest attraction is the spectacular Dragon Bridge, which spans the Han River. Not only is it illuminated with LED lighting at night, it also breathes fire and spouts water at intervals. Environs Some of Vietnam’s most breathtaking vistas can be seen at Hai Van Pass on Truong Son Range, about 18 miles (30 km) north of Danang. The summit of the pass offers splendid views of mount ains covered in thick clouds, with the blue waters of Danang Bay below. A short distance southeast of the city are the Marble Mountains. As the name suggests, these rocky formations are made of marble, and comprise several caverns that have long sheltered a series of shrines dedicated to the Buddha or to Confucius. Just northeast of Danang is Monkey Mountain or Nui Son Tra, named after its primate population. To the west of this are the Tombs of Spanish and French Soldiers, killed in the 1858 French attack on Danang. E Museum of Cham Sculpture Corner of Bach Dang and Trung Nu Vuong Sts. Tel (0511) 347 0114. Open 7am–5:30pm daily. & 8 = ∑ chammuseum.danang.vn Cao Dai Temple 63 Hai Phong St. Tel (0511) 369 8710. Open 6am–6pm daily. Pho Da Pagoda 340 Phan Chu Trinh St. Tel (0511) 382 6094. Open 5am–9pm daily. (see pp48–9), when Danang became an important military base for the Americans. Ves tiges of all three eras can still be seen in and around the city. The Museum of Cham Sculpture, or Bao Tang Dieu Khac Cham, is one of the city’s highlights. Founded in 1915 by École Française d’Extrême Orient, the museum showcases the world’s best collection of Cham sculpture, including altars, sandstone pieces, busts of Hindu gods such as Vishnu, Shiva, and Brahma, and carvings of scenes from the epic Ramayana. All the sculptures were recovered from nearby Cham sites, including Tra Kieu, the first Champa capital, My Son, and Dong Duong among others, and date from the 7th to the 13th century. The pink-colored Danang Cathedral was constructed in 1923 and has five tiers rising to a steeple crowned with a cockerel. Another interesting sight is the Cao Dai Temple, the largest after its main counter part, Cao Dai Holy See (see pp78–9) in Tay Ninh. Also worth visiting are Phap Lam Pagoda, honoring the Thich Ca Buddha, and Pho Da Pagoda, which is pale cream, with orange tiles and green trimming. The central temple build ing, which houses the main altar, is flanked by two triple-roofed towers with flaring eaves. This lovely pagoda is also used as a Altar to Quan Am, Goddess of Mercy, Pho Da Pagoda Stained-glass window, Danang Cathedral 138-139_EW_VTN.indd 138 14/07/16 4:42 pm CENTRAL VIETNAM 139 Cham Art and Sculpture The Cham Empire existed in Vietnam for around 1,600 years, from the 2nd century AD to its downfall in 1832. Today, a thriving Cham community survives, but all that remains of their ancient kingdom is its art istic legacy, which reached its zenith in the 8th to 10th centuries. Part of this heritage is architec tural, visible in the red brick temples found scattered across Central Vietnam. Other elements are sculptural, carved chiefly in sandstone and marble or, more rarely, cast in bronze, and discovered at sites such as Tra Kieu, My Son, and Dong Duong. Religious in inspiration, Cham art derives from the Indic tradition and represents Hindu deities with their celestial mounts, dancing girls, and demons. This tradition is expressive and exudes a unique sensuality. This altar pedimentis embellished with a circular arrangement of sculpted breasts. The breast is a common motif in Cham art. It is thought to represent the Hindu mother goddess, Uma. The headgear of the dancer is an elongated and elaborately decorated hair retainer. Garuda is the eagle mount of the Hindu god, Vishnu. Cham sculptors used stone or terracotta to carve various Hindu mythical gods and animals. Dancing girl of Tra Kieu The early 10th-century dancing apsara, or celestial nymph, from an altar pediment at Tra Kieu, outside Danang, is celebrated for her sensuality and grace. Close attention was paid to hairstyle, costume, and jewelry in Cham art. Exquisite ornaments on the apsara’s dress, both emphasize and conceal her femininity. Recovered from an altar in My Son, this wellpreserved example of 7th to 8thcentury Cham art shows a flautist playing within an elaborate marble niche. The makara is a mythical sea creature from the Hindu pantheon. Cham art was inspired by Hinduism and many such Hindu sculptures decorate their temples. This altar frieze, dating back to the late 12th century, depicts a rider on horseback drawing a chariot. The fine detailing is clearly visible despite the sandstone’s weathering. 138-139_EW_VTN.indd 139 14/07/16 4:42 pm 140 VIETNAM AREA BY AREA For hotels and restaurants see p239 and pp249–50 Macaque monkey, Bach Ma National Park 7 Suoi Voi Road Map C3. 40 miles (65 km) S of Hue; 9 miles (15 km) N of Lang Co on Hwy 1. @ from Hue. Open 6:30am–9:30pm daily. & - A popular weekend destination for the inhabitants of Hue or Danang, Suoi Voi, also known as Elephant Springs, is named after a huge rock that resem bles the animal. This is a wonderful bathing spot, not usually frequented by visitors. On the way from Hue, in order not to miss its tucked away location, look out for a large sign that indicates a track leading off to the right toward the springs. About 1.5 miles (2.5 km) from here, passing the old Thua Lau Church on the way, is the entrance gate and car park for Suoi Voi. From here, the walk to the main springs is about 1 mile (1.6 km). Once there, the effects of the long, dusty walk can be washed away in its refreshing waters. Several large boulders surround the treefilled area. All this is set scenically against the thickly jungled peaks 6 Bach Ma National Park Road Map C4. 28 miles (45 km) SE of Hue. Tel (054) 387 1330. @ from Hue and Danang to Cau Hai. From Danang, Hue, Hoi An, and Cau Hai. Open daily. & 8 0 - = ∑bachmapark.com.vn Located in the HueDanang provincial frontier, at an elevation of 4,757 ft (1,450 m), Bach Ma National Park was originally established as a hill station in the 1930s by the French. The Viet Minh did not take kindly to this imperialist occupation, and the area was subjected to many attacks during the First Indochina War (see p47). By the time the war came to its close, most of the French had abandoned their beautiful villas. Later, in the 1960s, the Americans fortified Bach Ma and there were many bitter confrontations with the members of the Vietcong in the hilly forests. After the communist victory in 1975, however, the hill station lay forgotten for many years. Fortunately for Bach Ma, in the early 1990s it under went a revival. In 1991, the authori ties granted national park status to this vast 145 sq miles (375 sq km) of forested land. Although sprayed with defoliants during the Vietnam War, the forest is showing encour aging signs of recovery due to dedi cated conserva tion efforts. The park is home to a wide variety of flora and fauna, which includes mo re than 2,140 plant species. Many of these are said to have medicinal properties. More than 130 species of mammals have been identified in the park area. Among them are the rare saola, the giant muntjac, as well as the recently discov ered Truong Son muntjac (see p205). Primates living here include langurs, lorises, macaques, and the whitecheeked gibbon. It is possible that leopards and tigers inhabit remote corners of the park, but this has not been confirmed. Bach Ma National Park is also a birdwatcher’s paradise, with an astounding 363 species listed by the park authorities, among them the endangered Edward’s Edward’s pheasant, Bach Ma National Park Five Lake Cascade Trail, Bach Ma National Park pheasant. While little remains of the former French hill station, a few ruins can be seen amid the foliage, lending the jungle an eerie atmosph ere. A narrow path leads to an observation post at the park’s highest point which, weather permitting, affords glori ous views across the rugged Truong Son Range. Bach Ma National Park can only be reached by private transport. Those who enjoy walking may like to wander along the Pheasant Trail where the calls of gibbons are often heard, or the Rhododendron Trail which leads to the 300metre tall Do Queyen waterfall. Check that the park is open before visiting as road repairs can affect accessibility. 140-141_EW_VTN.indd 140 14/07/16 4:37 pm CENTRAL VIETNAM 141 9 Thuan An Beach Road Map C3. 9 miles (15 km) NE of Hue on Hwy 49. 0 - = One of the best beaches in the Hue region, Thuan An is located at the northern end of a long, slender island that runs all the way south from the mouth of Gentle waves lapping the sands of Lang Co beach Visitors enjoying a relaxed lunch at a seaside restaurant, Lang Co Beach the Perfume River (see p152), almost up to the little town of Phu Loc. The beach is in many ways comparable to the one at Lang Co, some 56 miles (90 km) farther south. Like it, Thuan An features a pleasing strip of white sand flanked by tall, sway ing coconut palms. It is washed by the calm blue waters of the Thanh Lam Lagoon to the south west, while the rather stormy waves of the South China Sea lap its northeast shores. Still relatively undeveloped, the village of Thuan An is sparsely settled by fishermen, whose boats are pulled up along the sandy shores. The manufac ture of nuoc mam or fish sauce is an important industry here. Its pungent – some may say putrid – odor permeates the air in certain areas. The vats used for fermenting the liquid are obvious not only from the smell but also because of their vast size. Thuan An is a convenient and enjoyable destination for a cycling day trip from Hue. Getting to the beach is half the fun, as it entails a ride through numerous tranquil villages and rural scenery, dotted with several quaint pagodas along the way. The island and beach can be accessed via a small bridge over the Thanh Lam Lagoon. A narrow road runs along the length of the island, providing a picturesque alternative route between Danang and Hue. 8 Lang Co Beach Road Map C3. 47 miles (75 km) S of Hue; 22 miles (35 km) N of Danang on Hwy 1. £ from Hue and Danang. @ from Hue or Danang. 0 - = To appreciate the full beauty of the Lang Co Peninsula, it is best to first catch a glimpse of it from the summit of the Hai Van Pass or from the wonderful, atmospheric train ride between Hue and Danang. Looking north from here, an idyllic picture in shimmering blue, white, and green appears. A narrow spit of pristine white sand runs south from the Loc Vinh commune, dividing a gleaming saltwater lagoon to its west from the choppy South China Sea to its east. It is an idyllic location, with miles of palmfringed, soft white sand contrasting beautifully with the aqua marine waters of the lagoon and the changing shades of the waveflecked sea. The beach is ideal for a leisurely swim, especially in the summer months before July, after which the area can get rather wet and dreary. Fortunately, an excellent sea food lunch can be enjoyed here in any season. There are also several resorts in the area for those wishing to make a longer stay. The sleepy Lang Co village provides a glimpse into Vietnam’s simple coastal way of living. Just south of Lang Co, a bridge vaults across the lagoon, leading to the road tunnel that carries High way 1 beneath the Hai Van Pass. This shelter ed area around the bridge provides a convenient harbor for local fishermen. A stroll along this inland part of the spit reveals brightlypainted fishing boats as well as cora cles, which are tiny circular boats that look a little like wicker baskets. of the Truong Son Range. Excellent for a break on the way to or from Hue, Suoi Voi is a perfect pic nic spot. Facilities are minimal but there are usually food stands near the springs. 140-141_EW_VTN.indd 141 14/07/16 4:37 pm 142 VIETNAM AREA BY AREA For hotels and restaurants see p239 and p250 Perfume River, near the southeast corner of the Citadel. A popular local shopping center, it attracts huge crowds daily. Stalls here over flow with an astonishing variety of goods, from fresh pro duce and fish to clothing, toys, shoes, and cosme tics. The mar ket is at its busiest and most fascinat ing in the early hours of the morn ing, even though it is open throughout the day. One of the most significant cultural and historic centers of Vietnam, the former imperial city of Hue is celebrat ed for its tradition of intellectual thought, Buddhist piety, and the sophistication of its cuisine. Despite the damage it suffered during the Indochina Wars, it remains a place of great beauty, with the Perfume River (see p152) flowing through it. To the north is the Citadel (see pp144–7), containing the Forbidden City and the royal palaces, while to the south are many ancient pagodas and tombs, and the town’s French Quarter. Excellent hotels and restaurants along with its palpably French atmosphere add to the city’s many attractions. 5 Notre Dame Cathedral 80 Nguyen Hue St. Open during mass. Built between 1937 and 1942 in a hybrid FrancoVietnamese style, this large and somewhat unappealing church serves around 1,500 local believers. Two masses are held daily at 5am and 5pm, with a third mass at 7am on Sunday. At other times, the main gates are generally locked. ( Dong Ba Market Northeast of Tran Hung Dao St. Open daily. Hue’s bustling Dong Ba Market is located to the north of the Business as usual in the constantly busy Dong Ba Market E Royal Antiquities Museum 3 Le Truc St. Tel (054) 352 4429. Open 7am–5pm Tue–Sat. & ^ Following extensive renovations, this museum has been relocated from the former private residence of Emperor Khai Dinh and his adopted son Bao Dai to its original location in Long An Palace in the Citadel. Originally built in 1845, the palace is supported by 128 ironwood columns and features a multitiered roof. The exhibits, which are all from the Nguyen Dynasty (1802–1945) include silver crafts, fine porcelain, antique furniture, and items from the royal wardrobe, Khai Dinh’s bed as well as Bao Dai’s shoes. Unfortunately, there is little explanation or information offered on this grand collection. Bao Quoc Pagoda Bao Quoc St. Tel (054) 382 2297. Open sunrise–sunset daily. Giac Phong, a Buddhist monk from China, founded this historic pagoda on Ham Long Hill in 1670. It was later granted royal status by the Nguyen lord, Phuc Khoat (r.1738–65). In the late 18th century, the powerful Tay Son (see p45) rebel, Quang Trung, used this house of worship for storing armaments. The temple was also given royal support by Emperor Minh Mang (r.1820–41). In 1940, it became a school for training Buddhist monks, a function it fulfills to this day. Though it was renovated in the The colonnaded entryway of Bao Quoc Pagoda 0 Hue P Imperial City See pp144–7. Dieu De Pagoda 102 Bach Dang St. Open sunrise– sunset daily. Built during the reign of Thieu Tri (r.1841–7), the third Nguyen Emperor, Dieu De fell into disrepair over the years, but was restored in 1889 by Emperor Than Tha. Renovat ed many times since, it dates from 1953 in its present form. The pagoda is distinguished by drum and bell towers, and a sanctuary dedicated to the Thich Ca Buddha, or the Historical Buddha. As with other Buddhist pagodas in Hue, it is closely associated with the politics of nationalism and opposition to the oppressive Diem regime (1955– 63). In May 1963, Buddhist monk Nun Nu Thanh Quang immolated himself here in protest. DUONG NO DONG HA DANANG Royal Tombs Thien Mu Pagoda, Royal Arena Thanh Toan Covered Bridge Royal Antiquities Museum Imperial City THE CITADEL Dieu De Pagoda Dong Ba Market Notre Dame Cathedral Bao Quoc Pagoda Tu Dam Pagoda Dan Nam Giao Tu Hieu Pagoda Military Museum Ho Chi Minh Museum St Xavier Church Stadium Municipal Theater Da Vien Bridge Phu Xuan Bridge Trang Tien Bridge An Cuu Bridge An Cuu Dong Ba Ga Hue DA N G T HA I T HAN T H A C H H A N N H A T L E DINH TIEN HOANG THANG 8 LE HUAN NGUYEN TRAI NGUYEN CU TRINH TRAN NGUYEN DAN T R I E U Q U A N G P H U C PHUNG HUNG BACH DANG CHI LANG TRAN HUNG D AO NGUYEN CONG TRU CHU VAN AN DOI CUNG NGUYENTHAI HOC TRUONG DINH TRAN CAO VAN BEN NGHE TRAN Q KHAI NGUYEN TRI PHUONG NGO QUYEN NGUYEN TRUONG TO TRAN THUC NHAN PHAN BO I CHA U D O AN H U U T R U N G T R A N P H U NGUYEN HUE LY THUA NG K EI T DONG DA LE QUY DON P H A N C H U TRINH PHAN C H U T R INH NGUYEN KHUYEN B O T R IEU HAI BA TRUNG LE THANH TON PHAN PHAN DIN H PHUN G LE TRUC BUI THI XUAN D I E N B I E N P H U L E L O I L E L O I T H U A N A N L E D U A N L E D U A N HANOI HUNG VUONG S o n g H u o n g ( P e r f u m e R i v e r ) Nhung River Kenh Phu Cam 142-143_EW_VTN.indd 142 14/07/16 4:42 pm HUE 143 An exquisite urn in the courtyard of Tu Dam Pagoda Hue City Center 1 Imperial City 2 Royal Antiquities Museum 3 Dieu De Pagoda 4 Dong Ba Market 5 Notre Dame Cathedral 6 Bao Quoc Pagoda 7 Tu Dam Pagoda 8 Dan Nam Giao 9 Tu Hieu Pagoda For keys to symbols see back flap The little known but delightful covered bridge in Thuy Thanh Commune is architecturally similar to the famous Japanese Covered Bridge (see p128) at Hoi An, as well as the covered bridge across the canal at Phat Diem. Getting to it is half the fun, and provides a great trip through scenic villages. Tu Dam Pagoda Lieu Quan St. Open sunrise– sunset daily. Founded in the 17th century, this temple’s chief impor tance is as a center for supporting Buddhism, a cause that has been at the heart of Central Vietnam’s political culture for a long time. The Vietnamese Buddhist Association established its headquarters here in 1951, and the temple was a major hub of activity during the Buddhist agita tion against President Diem’s unpopular Catholic regime during the mid20th century. As was the disturbing trend at the time, in 1963 a monk burned himself to death in the pagoda’s courtyard in protest against the oppressive administration. The central altar is presided over by the Thich Ca Buddha, and a tree in the temple grounds is said to have been grown from a cutting of the original bodhi tree in India. mid20th century, the pagoda retains its charm and aura of antiquity even today. VISITORS’ CHECKLIST Practical Information Road Map C3. Capital of Thue Thien Hue Province, 62 miles (110 km) N of Danang. * 360,000. n Hue Tourist, 120 Le Loi St, (091) 355 8464. Transport £ Reunification Express Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City. @ from Hanoi, Vinh, Danang, Nha Trang, and Ho Chi Minh City. P Thanh Toan Covered Bridge Thanh Thuy Chan Village, 4 miles (7 km) E of Hue. 0 meters 0 yards 800 800 DUONG NO DONG HA DANANG Royal Tombs Thien Mu Pagoda, Royal Arena Thanh Toan Covered Bridge Royal Antiquities Museum Imperial City THE CITADEL Dieu De Pagoda Dong Ba Market Notre Dame Cathedral Bao Quoc Pagoda Tu Dam Pagoda Dan Nam Giao Tu Hieu Pagoda Military Museum Ho Chi Minh Museum St Xavier Church Stadium Municipal Theater Da Vien Bridge Phu Xuan Bridge Trang Tien Bridge An Cuu Bridge An Cuu Dong Ba Ga Hue DA N G T HA I T HAN T H A C H H A N N H A T L E DINH TIEN HOANG THANG 8 LE HUAN NGUYEN TRAI NGUYEN CU TRINH TRAN NGUYEN DAN T R I E U Q U A N G P H U C PHUNG HUNG BACH DANG CHI LANG TRAN HUNG D AO NGUYEN CONG TRU CHU VAN AN DOI CUNG NGUYENTHAI HOC TRUONG DINH TRAN CAO VAN BEN NGHE TRAN Q KHAI NGUYEN TRI PHUONG NGO QUYEN NGUYEN TRUONG TO TRAN THUC NHAN PHAN BO I CHA U D O AN H U U T R U N G T R A N P H U NGUYEN HUE LY THUA NG K EI T DONG DA LE QUY DON P H A N C H U TRINH PHAN C H U T R INH NGUYEN KHUYEN B O T R IEU HAI BA TRUNG LE THANH TON PHAN PHAN DIN H PHUN G LE TRUC BUI THI XUAN D I E N B I E N P H U L E L O I L E L O I T H U A N A N L E D U A N L E D U A N HANOI HUNG VUONG S o n g H u o n g ( P e r f u m e R i v e r ) Nhung River Kenh Phu Cam 142-143_EW_VTN.indd 143 14/07/16 4:42 pm Hue Citadel: Imperial City Designated a World Heritage Site in 1993, the Citadel was established by Empe ror Gia Long (r.1802–20) in 1805. The huge fortress comprises three concentric enclosures – the Civic, Imperial, and Forbidden Purple Cities. The Citadel was design ed using the rules of Chinese geomancy, along with the military principles favored by French architect Sebastien de Vauban. The result is an unusual yet ele gant complex, where beautiful palaces and temples coexist with massive ramparts, bas tions, and moats. Despite the horrific damage caused by the Indochina Wars, recent restoration work has re-imagined some of the Citadel’s lost architectural grandeur. 144 VIETNAM AREA BY AREA For hotels and restaurants see p239 and p250 Richly decorated gilt and lacquer altar to a Nguyen king, The Mieu Hien Lam Pavilion Built by Emperor Minh Mang in 1824, Hien Lam Pavilion is a three-storied galleried portico, with a wooden façade, deco rated with engra ved wooden beams and panels in floral designs. Hung Mieu Dedicated to the veneration of Emperor Gia Long’s mother and father, this 19th-century temple is known for the glazed carvings on its tiled roof. Particularly noteworthy are the large gargoyle-like stone dragons keep ing vigil over the spacious paved courtyard. . Nine Dynastic Urns Cast between 1835 and 1837, these massive bronze funerary urns stand in the courtyard facing The Mieu. They represent the might of nine Nguyen Emperors, and are richly embellished with bas-reliefs of a host of powerful symbols. KEY 1 The Mieu honors ten Nguyen Emperors, and has been restored to its original splendor. 2 Royal Library, an elegant twostory structure, heavily decorated with ceramic mosaics, is now on the brink of collapse. 144-145_EW_VTN.indd 144 14/07/16 4:42 pm HUE 145 . Thai Hoa Palace The grand throne palace of the Nguyen Emperors, Thai Hoa Palace is dominated by 80 red lacquered wooden col umns. These massive structures are ornately decorated with golden dragons, the emblem of the Nguyen Dynasty. . Ngo Mon Gate The majestic main entrance to the Citadel, Ngo Mon is a superb example of Nguyen architecture. Mas sive stone slabs form the foundation, upon which rests an elab orate watchtower, where the emperor sat enthroned on state occasions. Royal Theater Completed in 1826, the beautifully constructed Royal Theater has a pagoda-style curved roof, and a colorful interior, featuring lac quered columns, etched with the ubiquitous golden dragon motif. VISITORS’ CHECKLIST Practical Information Road Map C3. 23 Thang 8 St, Hue. n Hue Tourist, 120 Le Loi St, (091) 355 8464. Open 7am–5pm daily. Transport ~ £ HCMC and Hanoi. @ Danang. 144-145_EW_VTN.indd 145 14/07/16 4:42 pm 146 VIETNAM AREA BY AREA For hotels and restaurants see p239 and p250 Four of the Nine Deities’ Cannons, one for each season and element Ancient bronze cauldron in the courtyard, Halls of the Mandarins Exploring Hue Citadel: Imperial City At the very heart of the vast Hue Citadel lies the Imperial City, also known as Dai Noi or the Great Enclosure. Over the past few years, this historic and unusually evocative part of the Citadel has undergone exten sive restora tion work, which has allowed more than just a glimmer of its former glory and grandeur to shine through. Entrance to this royal city is via the imposing Ngo Mon Gate, beyond which a bridge leads bet ween lotus-filled ponds to the splendid Thai Hoa Palace. Behind this is an open courtyard that overlooks a stretch of land, once home to the Forbidden Purple City. P Cot Co or Flag Tower Looming over the Citadel at a height of 120 ft (37 m), the Flag Tower or Cot Co has dominated Hue’s sky line since 1809, when Emperor Gia Long (r.1802–20) erected it over a big 59-ft (18-m) brick redoubt. On January 31, 1968, during the Tet Offensive (see p49), Cot Co achieved interna tional recognition when the com munist forces seized the Citadel, hoisting the National Libera tion Front’s yellow-starred ban ner on the Flag Tower’s mast. P Five Phoenix Watchtower Located above the huge stone slabs of the Ngo Mon Gate, this elaborate pavilion was where the emperor sat enthroned on state Nine Deities’ Cannons Cast by Emperor Gia Long in 1803 as symbolic protection for his new capital, these colossal cannons were made out of bronze. Each weapon is said to represent one of the four seasons and five elements – earth, metal, wood, water, and fire. The cannons can be seen flanking the Ngan and Quang Duc Gates on either side of Cot Co. T Forbidden Purple City No man except the emperor was permitted to set foot in the 25-acre (10-ha) city-withina-city known as Tu Cam Thanh or Forbidden Purple City – any male who crossed its threshold was condemned to death. Only the queen, nine separate ranks of concubines, female servants, and court eunuchs were allowed to enter. Built between 1802 and 1833, the Forbidden City once comprised more than 60 buildings arranged around numerous courtyards, but unfortunately, it was damaged extensively by heavy bombing during the 1968 Tet Offensive. F Royal Theater Originally built in 1825, the Duyet Thi Duong or the Royal Theater is once again a lead ing venue for traditional entertainment, offer ing perfor mances of nha nhac (see p29) or court music. Declared a Master piece of the Oral and Intangible Heritage of Human ity by UNESCO, nha nhac features bamboo lutes, zithers, and fid dles, accompanied by drums. occasions. Viewed from above, it is said to resemble a group of five phoenixes. The middle section of the roof is covered with yellow glazed tiles, and decorated with dragons, banyan leaves, and bats, while the panels along the eaves are embellished with ceramic orchid, chrysanthemum, and bamboo mosaics. Above the pavilion, a concealed staircase leads up to a room from where women of the court could see through finely carved grills. P Halls of the Mandarins On either side of a paved courtyard, just behind Thai Hoa, are the Halls of the Mandarins. One hall was for the military, and the other for civil mandarins. In keeping with their ranks, they would gather at their pavilions to dress in ceremonial robes for imperial functions. Some of these gorgeous vestments are now kept on display here. E Thai Hoa Palace ^ in the throne room. Originally built by Emperor Gia Long in 1805, Thai Hoa or Hall of Supreme Harmony housed the throne room of the Nguyen Emperors. The most impressive of Hue’s remaining palaces, it has been beautifully restored. It is easy to envisage the hall as the venue for coronations, royal anniversaries, and the reception of ambassadors. On these occasions, the emperor would sit on the resplendent throne, wearing a crown with nine dragons, a gold robe, jade belt, and other attire. Only the most senior mandarins were allowed to stand in the hall, while others waited outside. 146-147_EW_VTN.indd 146 14/07/16 4:42 pm HUE 147 Plan of Imperial City 1 Cot Co 2 Nine Deities’ Cannons 3 Five Phoenix Watchtower 4 Thai Hoa Palace 5 Halls of the Mandarins 6 Forbidden Purple City 7 Royal Theater 8 Royal Library 9 Dien Tho Palace 0 Hung Mieu q The Mieu w Nine Dynastic Urns e Hien Lam Pavilion Key Imperial City Forbidden Purple City Area illustrated (see pp144–5) Wall of The Citadel Hung Mieu Emperor Minh Mang built Hung Mieu in 1821 to honor his grandparents. The temple was seriously damaged by fire in 1947 at the beginning of the First Indochina War, but has now been restored. It is renowned for its refined design and fine Antique furnishings and wood paneling, roof carvings. Dien Tho Palace E Dien Tho Palace Once the exclusive preserve of the Queen Mothers, Cung Dien Tho or the Residence of Everlasting Longevity was built P Hien Lam Pavilion Located in the center of the The Mieu court, Hien Lam was built in 1824 by Emperor Minh Mang to honor those who gave the great Nguyen Dynasty its formidable status. As a mark of respect, it was declared that no other building in the Citadel could rise higher than Hien Lam, which is distinguished by its pyramid shape, as well as its finely crafted wooden façade and brick paving. in 1803 during the reign of Emperor Gia Long. Open to the public, the elegant building is sur rounded by a wall that is pierced on the south by Cua Tho Chi or the Gate of Ever lasting Happi ness. Inside the building, the crafted furniture is carefully inlaid with delicate motherofpearl, and carved lanterns hang from the ceiling, which is ornamen ted with fans made from feathers. To the east of the entrance to the palace is the Truong Du Pavilion, with a small artificial lake and a graceful rock garden. Miniature funerary urn, The Mieu P Royal Library In the northeastern quarter of the Forbidden City, the Royal Library was constructed by Emperor Minh Mang in 1821, as a ret reat where he read in solitude. The decrepit build ing stands before an artificial pond, with a rock garden to its west. Small brid ges, cros sing other lakes and ponds, con nect various galleries, creating a tranquil atmo sphere. The library has been used to stage perform ances of Hue music, as well as various theatrical events. The Mieu Located in the southwest area of Imperial City, The Mieu or the Temple of Generations is dedicated to the Nguyen Dynasty, and contains altars Nine Dynastic Urns Cast on the orders of Emperor Minh Mang, Cuu Dinh or Dynastic Urns of the Nguyen Dynasty weigh up to 2.75 tons each. Decorated with tradi tional patterns, and rich in symbolic detail, they play a big role in the cult of imperial ancestor veneration. honoring emperors, from Gia Long to Khai Dinh. The building has a roof of yellow glazed tiles, the ridge of which is decorated in the shape of a wine gourd. The altars were once stacked high with gold ingots, but today these have been replaced with gilt and lacquer ornamentation. 146-147_EW_VTN.indd 147 14/07/16 4:42 pm 148 VIETNAM AREA BY AREA For hotels and restaurants see p239 and p250 Lotus pond in front of the small and serene Tu Hieu Pagoda Thien Mu Pagoda 3 miles (5 km) SW of Hue Citadel. Open sunrise–sunset daily. Rising on a bluff above the northwest bank of the Perfume River, Thien Mu or Heavenly Lady Pagoda is an iconic symbol of Hue. Founded in 1601 by Lord Nguyen Hoang, the pagoda is dominated by a seven-story octagonal tower, Thap Phuoc Duyen, which translates as Source of Happiness Tower. A pavil ion close by shelters a huge bronze bell cast in 1710. Weighing more than 4,409 lb (2,000 kg), it can purportedly be heard at least 6 miles (10 km) away. A second pavilion houses a stone stele erected in 1715, which eulogises the history of Thich Quang Duc’s blue Austin, Thien Mu Pagoda The crumbling but fairly intact remains of the Royal Arena T Dan Nam Giao 2 miles (3 km) S of city center, southern end of Dien Bien Phu St. Open 8am–5pm daily. & Built by Emperor Gia Long in 1802,Dan Nam Giao or the Altar of Heaven stands beyond the former French Quarter on the east side of the Perfume River (see p152). For more than a century, this was the most important ceremonial site in the country. Approximately every three years, between 1806 and 1945, the Nguyen Emperors reaffirmed the legitimacy of their rule through a series of elaborate sacrifices to the Emperor of Heaven. The ritual was consciously modeled on the rites practiced in Beijing by the Chinese emperors at the 15th-century Tian Tan or Temple of Heaven. Today, not much remains of this ceremonial site other than a series of three raised terraces. The first two are square-shaped and are said to represent humanity and earth. The cir cular terrace at the top symbolizes the heavens. Though there isn’t much of the building left, the site has plenty of atmosphere. In this set ting, it is easy to conjure up images of the emperors as the rightful Sons of Heaven, interceding with the gods on behalf of their subjects. Tu Hieu Pagoda Thon Thuong 2, Thuy Xuan Village, 3 miles (5 km) SW of Hue. Open 6am–6pm daily. Set amid the attractive pine woods to the north of Tu Duc’s tomb, Tu Hieu Pagoda is surrounded by a delightful crescent-shaped lotus pond. P Royal Arena Phuong Duc Village, 3 miles (4 km) SW of Hue. Open sunrise–sunset daily. Built for the entertainment of the Nguyen Emperors and the mandarins, this amphitheater is also known as Ho Quyen or the Tiger Arena. It was used to stage combats between elephants, symbolizing royalty, and tigers, signifying the former Champa Kingdom. As a result, these contests were rigged so that the elephant would win. To achieve this, the tiger was declawed and had its mouth sewn shut. Fortunately, no fights have been held since 1904, but the place remains in fairly good condition. The viewing platforms are intact, as are the five doors opposite leading to the tigers’ cages. One of the most serene pagodas in the Hue region, it was established in 1848 by impe rial eunuchs. Since they could not have children, the eunuchs financially secured the temple, thus guaran teeing that future generations of monks would always be on hand to perform the neces sary cere monies for their lives in the hereafter. Indeed, several monks still inhabit Tu Hieu and hold prayer services daily. The main shrine is dedicated to Sakyamuni Buddha, also known as the Thich Ca Buddha. Lesser altars carry images and tab lets honoring various deities and some prominent eunuchs of the past. Buddhism in Hue. Inside, the main shrine is presided over by a laughing bronze Buddha and statues of the ten kings of hell and 18 arhat or holy disciples of the Buddha. Close by is a striking image of the Thich Ca Buddha. The monks’ quarters and gar dens are at the back of the temple. In an open garage to the west is the car that drove monk Thich Quang Duc (see p48) to Saigon in June 1963, where he immolat ed himself in protest against the Diem regime. Images of this horrific event were shown all over the world, provok ing widespread shock and outrage. 148-149_EW_VTN.indd 148 14/07/16 4:42 pm HUE 149 Scattered across the scenic countryside to the south of Hue, the tombs of the Nguyen Emperors (see p45) are among the area’s most compelling attractions. Although 13 rulers sat on the imperial throne between 1802 and 1945, only seven were given the honor of their own mausoleum, or lang, as the others died during exile or in disgrace. All seven tombs have features of outstanding architectural merit, and can be reached by bicycle, motor bike, taxi, and by boat. Restoration work is currently taking place, which may make some areas inaccessible. Exploring the Royal Tombs Concrete exterior of the least traditional royal tomb, Khai Dinh P Tomb of Tu Duc 4 miles (6 km) SW of Hue. Open 7am–5pm daily. & Considered by many to be the most elegant tomb in Vietnam, the mausoleum of Tu Duc (r.1848–83) was designed by the king himself. Set on a pineforested hill, it is flanked by beautiful lotus ponds and aromatic frangipani trees. Tu Duc was known to have preferred the quiet comforts of his future tomb to his own palace. It is said that when Tu Duc died, he was buried secretly along with a great treasure. All those involved in his burial were later executed to keep his final resting place safe from desecration. P Tomb of Dong Khanh 0.3 miles (0.5 km) SE of Lang Tu Duc. Tel (054) 383 6427. Open 7am–6pm daily. & The smallest of all Nguyen tombs is the mausoleum of Dong Khanh (r.1885–88). The French influence is quite prominent in its interior, where images of Napoleon Bonaparte hang from the red-lacquered iron wood pillars. The tomb benefitted from a restoration project completed in 2009. P Tomb of Thieu Tri 1 mile (1.5 km) S of Lang Tu Duc. Open 7am–5pm daily. & The small tomb of Thieu Tri (r.1841–47) fea tures several artificial ponds, although it lacks the usual extensive walled gardens. The complex is divided into two parts. To the east, a delicate temple salutes the deceased, while to the west is the tomb itself. P Tomb of Khai Dinh 6 miles (10 km) S of Hue. Tel (054) 386 5875. Open 6am–5.30pm daily. & Khai Dinh (r.1916–25), the penultimate Nguyen Emperor, was the last to be buried in a royal tomb at Hue. His tomb makes use of concrete, combining European and Vietnamese architectural styles in a unique but not entirely succes sful fusion. Built into the side of a hill, the tomb rises steeply through three levels. In the temple at the summit is a bronze bust of the emperor, cast at Marseilles in 1922. P Tomb of Minh Mang 7 miles (12 km) S of Hue. Open 7:30am–5:30pm daily. & Located on the west side of the Perfume River, the maus oleum of Emperor Minh Mang, who died in 1841, is one of the most impressive royal tombs. The complex comprises picturesque lakes and gardens, as well as numerous buildings. P Tomb of Gia Long 10 miles (16 km) SE of Hue. & The mausoleum of the first Nguyen Emperor, Gia Long, is best reached by boat, either from Hue or from the tiny village of Tuan, opposite Lang Minh Mang. The most remote of all, it suffered extensive damage during the Vietnam War and sadly is still in a state of disrepair. Key Hue town map (see p143) Major road Minor road The Royal Tombs 1 Tomb of Tu Duc 2 Tomb of Dong Khanh 3 Tomb of Thieu Tri 4 Tomb of Khai Dinh 5 Tomb of Minh Mang 6 Tomb of Gia Long Ancient royal Tu Doc tomb near Hue 0 km 0 miles 3 3 For keys to symbols see back flap Phu Bai Airport Dong Ha Hue Citadel Royal Arena Thien Mu Pagoda Van Mieu Pagoda Perfume River Ta H Trach ay Trach 1 2 6 4 5 3 148-149_EW_VTN.indd 149 14/07/16 4:42 pm 150-151_EW_VTN.indd 150 17/07/14 3:16 PM 150-151_EW_VTN.indd 151 17/07/14 3:16 PM Key Major road Minor road 2 Thien Mu Pagoda Set amidst verdant greenery, this is the oldest pagoda in Hue. Built in 1601, the 69-ft (21-m) high tower is an official symbol of the city of Hue (see p148). A fishing boat on the calm blue waters of Perfume River 3 Temple of Literature This tiny temple was built by Emperor Gia Long in 1808 to replace the venerable Temple of Literature in Hanoi. 6 Tomb of Minh Mang This is possibly the best preserved royal tomb in Hue. Graceful statuary, ponds, and beautifully land s caped gardens add to the mauso leum’s grandeur (see p149). 1 Citadel Once the royal seat of the Nguyen Emperors, this imposing structure is a UNESCO World Heritage Site (see pp144–7). 5 Hon Chen Temple Full of altars, spirit houses, and stelae, this attractive temple dates back more than a thousand years, to the ancient Champa. It can be approached only by boat. 4 Royal Arena This royal amphitheater, used for entertaining the Nguyen Emperors, is a unique kind of architectural work that is rarely found in Southeast Asia (see p148). 152 VIETNAM AREA BY AREA Perfume River Boat Tour One of the main highlights of a visit to Hue is a boat ride along Song Huong or the Perfume River. Though not very long, the slow-winding river is extraor dinarily beautiful. The effect is enhanced by the reflection of the Citadel, pagodas, towers, and the scenic countryside. Added to this spectacular view is the picturesque river traffic – women sculling tiny, single-oared vessels, larger boats piled high with fish and fresh vegetables, and fisher men in narrow crafts, casting their nets or retrieving fish traps. Tips for the Trip Tour boats: Hire boats from the wharf by Le Loi Street. Try to haggle the price quoted. Or take a well-organized tour. Time taken: Half a day. Stopping-off points: Snacks available at Thien Mu and Minh Mang. Most boatmen arrange a lunch on request. 0 kilometers 0 miles 2 1 Phu bai Airport Perfume River Perfume River For keys to symbols see back flap 152-153_EW_VTN.indd 152 14/07/16 4:43 pm For hotels and restaurants see p239 and pp249–50 The historic Hien Luong Bridge over the Ben Hai River, DMZ Military memorabilia from the Vietnam War, DMZ w Demilitarized Zone Road Map B3. 53 miles (90 km) NE of Khe Sanh on Hwy 9. Tel (054) 382 3414. @ minibus and taxi from Hue. Open 7am–5pm daily. Though it lost all strategic and political importance after reunification in 1975, the Demilitarized Zone (DMZ) has become a major tourist attraction and can be visited on a day trip from Hue or Dong Ha. Most tours start with the Hien Luong Bridge over the Ben Hai River, which once formed the frontier, and a visit to the wellconstructed Vinh Moc Tunnels (see p154). The Truong Son National Cemetery, based to the west of Highway 1, hon ors the many thousands of North Vietnamese soldiers and Vietcong fighters killed in the area. From here, it is conve nient to head inland from Dong Ha along Highway 9, passing for mer US bases en route. Camp Carroll, Khe Sanh, and Hamburger Hill (see p49) have entered popular con scious ness through Hollywood movies. While there is not very much in the way of “sights,” the DMZ provides an often saddening tour. It is especially popular with military histo rians and American visitors. q Khe Sanh Combat Base Road Map B3. 90 miles (145 km) NW of Hue on Hwy 9. @ minibus from Hue. Museum: 1 mile N of Khe Sanh town. Open 7am–5pm daily. & - Situated close to the Laos border, the Khe Sanh Combat Base lies about 2 miles (3 km) away from Khe Sanh village, now known as Hoang Ho. It was initially developed as an airstrip by the Americans in 1962, and later enlarged and developed into a US Special Forces base charged with intercepting traffic on the Ho Chi Minh Trail (see p155). However, Khe Sanh is best known as the site of one of the most ferocious battles of the Vietnam War, and as the beginning of the end for the Americans in Vietnam. In 1968, the famous US General William Westmoreland started a massive build up at the base with a view to forcing the North Vietnamese Army into direct confrontation. Vietnam’s General Vo Nguyen Giap took the bait, but in a masterful doubleplay, used the siege, which lasted from January to April 1968, to distract attention from the Tet Offensive (see p49). Diversionary tactic or not, the heavy deployment of bombs and relentless gunfire resulted in a number of casualties. An estimated 207 American and 9,000 Vietnamese soldiers died, and several thousand civilians lost their lives. Although this battle was not, as President Johnson feared, another Dien Bien Phu (see p199), the Americans, though undefeated, were forced to withdraw from Khe Sanh. They took great pains to bury, remove, or destroy, rather History of the DMZ During the 1954 Geneva Conference, a decision was taken to establish the DMZ at the 17th Parallel as a “provisional demarcation line” between North and South Vietnam (see pp48–9). The boundary stretched 3 miles (5 km) on either side of Ben Hai River, continuing to the Lao border. From the beginning, how ever, the North Vietnamese Army (NVA) managed to penetrate the DMZ with their tunnels, trails, and guerilla tactics. In response, the Americans and South Vietnamese planted mines and built extensive elec trified fences along Highway 9 in what became known as the McNamara Line after Robert McNamara, the then US Secretary of Defense. Ironically, the DMZ saw some of the heaviest fighting of the Vietnam War, partic ularly during the siege of Khe Sanh and the 1972 Easter Offensive, when the NVA seized the entire area, leading to a massive American retaliation. Canon displayed at Khe Sanh near DMZ than abandon their military equipment where it could be used as propagandist evidence of their “defeat.” Today, Khe Sanh is on the tourist map, with guided tours available. The drive along Highway 9, past statues and plaques, is part of the Central Vietnam experience. Though nothing had been left behind, American weaponry and vehicles were brought in from elsewhere in the south to fill the small Museum here. CENTRAL VIETNAM 153 Phu bai Airport 152-153_EW_VTN.indd 153 14/07/16 4:43 pm 154 VIETNAM AREA BY AREA For hotels and restaurants see p239 and pp249–50 e Vinh Moc Tunnels Road Map C3. 8 miles (13 km) E of Ho Xa on Hwy 1; 12 miles (20 km) NE of the DMZ. @ minibus from Hue and Dong Ha. Open 7:30am–5pm daily. & 8 Some of the most resilient tunnels built in Vietnam were at Vinh Moc, a village along the South China Sea shore. Occu pied by hundreds of people between 1968 and 1972, these tunnels were intended for longterm inhabitation. They are different from the betterknown ones at Cu Chi (see p76), which was more of a frontline fight ing base. Vinh Moc’s troubles began because of its location. After the nation’s partition in 1954, villages along the north of the Demilitarized Zone (see p153), including Vinh Moc, found themselves under almost constant attack. Moreover, Vinh Moc faces Con Co Island, a North Vietnamese base used for transporting weapons and supplies to the south, making it a key target for strikes by the South Vietnamese Army. The United States Air Force (USAF) also contributed to the huge barrage of bombs, and Vinh Moc was nearly razed to the ground. While some inhabi tants fled, others decided to stay, even if they had to go underground. The villagers, aided by the Vietcong, worked with nothing but spades, baskets, and their bare hands to excavate the complex tunnel network. The cavernous depths of a tunnel at the Vinh Moc complex t Phong Nha-Ke Bang National Park Road Map B3. Son Trach Village, 34 miles (55 km) NW of Dong Hoi. Tel (052) 367 7021. @ from Dong Hoi. Open 7am–5pm. & 8 0 - \= ∑phongnhakebang.vn This national park thoroughly deserves its designation as a UNESCO World Heritage Site for its enormous caves. The most accessible of these is Phong Nha Cave. Packed with underground grottos, stalactites, stalagmites, and river systems, it extends back into the hills for many miles. The main cavern is some 5 miles (8 km) deep, with several smaller yet stunning caves clustered near it. Although speleologists have penetrated some 22 miles (35 km) into the r Dong Hoi Road Map B3. 101 miles (162 km) N of Hue on Hwy 1. * 170,000. £ @ from Vinh, Dong Ha, and Hue. n Quang Binh Tourism, 58 Nguyen Huu Canh, (052) 382 2018. ∑quangbinhtourism.vn The capital of Quang Binh Province, Dong Hoi was once a charming little fishing village. However, mirroring Vietnam’s changing economic policies, it has evolved into a leading transit town. Though there are no major sights here, it is remark able to see how the town has recovered from the ravages of war. What was rubble a few decades ago has now changed to wide avenues and wellmaintained build ings. It is also interesting to note that for the best part of 150 years, Dong Hoi marked the de facto frontier between the Trinh and Nguyen lords (see p45). Two major ramparts were constructed to keep the enemies separated, but all that remains of them is a crumbling gateway. Though often only used as a stopover on the way to the Phong NhaKe Bang National Park, there are some fine beach es nearby, including Nhat Le, 2 miles (3 km) north of town. Created in about 18 months, the network stretches for 2 miles (3 km), with 13 entrance points. Family rooms, a hospital, and a meeting hall fill its three levels. The villagers and the North Vietnamese soldiers lived here for more than four years – 17 children were born here. From these tunnels, almost 12,000 tons of military supplies and equipment were sent to Con Co. Today, the marvel created by the villagers of Vinh Moc can be seen almost exactly as they were in 1972. Unlike Cu Chi, it is possible to negotiate these tunnels standing up straight, though taller visitors do have to stoop. The museum here makes for a fascinating browse. An added advantage are the sunny beaches nearby. Bombed church in Dong Hoi 154-155_EW_VTN.indd 154 14/07/16 4:43 pm CENTRAL VIETNAM 155 y Kim Lien Road Map B2. 9 miles (14 km) NW of Vinh. @ minibus from Vinh. A pilgrimage site of sorts, Kim Lien is celebrated as the birthplace and childhood home of Ho Chi Minh (see p173), who was born in nearby Hoang Tru village in 1890. He stayed there until he was five years old, and then moved to Hue with his father. In 1901, how ever, he returned and stayed here for another five years. Ho Chi Minh Trail A complex network of hidden tracks and paths, the Ho Chi Minh Trail, or Duong Truong Son, was used as a strategic connection between North and South Vietnam during the Vietnam War (1957–75). Built on simple tracks that had existed for centuries, the trail provided logistical support to communist forces in the south, supplying them with weapons, food, and legions of North Vietnamese troops (NVA). It is assumed that the labrynthine trail started in the north near the port of Vinh. From there, it wound its way west through the Truong Suong Range, before snaking along the VietnameseLao border and crossing into Laos and Cam bodia. It finally entered South Vietnam at various obscure points. It is estimated that the total length of tracks and roads forming the trail was around 12,427 miles (20,000 km). In 1972, South Vietnamese forces mounted a large scale incursion into Laos to cut the trail, but withdrew after sustaining heavy losses. Other failures followed despite massive bombing and defoliation by the South Vietnamese and Americans. In the meantime, NVA activity continued along the trail, playing a decisive role in the victory of the North. cave system, there are further mysteries of Phong Nha still to be revealed. Not surprisingly, this is a very popular destination, and fleets of sampans wait at the visitors’ center to ferry passen gers up stream for about 3 miles (5 km), and then into the huge cavern. About a mile (1.6 km) into the cave is an area once held sacred by the Cham. The cave wall still bears an inscription carved by them many centuries ago. Also in the national park are two recently discovered caves – Thien Duong (Paradise Cave) and Son Doong (Mountain River Cave). Both the caves are now open to the public. Son Doong, also believed to be the biggest cave in the world, is the object of many scientific researches as well. Only a handful of tourists are permitted entry in a year and at the cost of thousands of dollars each. A bamboo loom in the model of Ho Chi Minh’s childhood home, Kim Lien A sampan dwarfed by the magnificence of Phong Nha Cave Section of the trail running through bomb craters A man who always shunned the trappings of power, Ho Chi Minh vetoed the construction of a museum to his life at Kim Lien, arguing that the funds could be better used. Since his death in 1969, museums and shrines have proliferated here. About 1 mile (1.6 km) away at Hoang Tru, is a reconstruction of the house where he was born. A small museum nearby displays pictures and other personal memorabilia related to the leader’s life. Also in this area is a reconstruction of the house where he lived from 1901 to 1906. In keeping with the great man’s high principles, entry to all these sites is absolutely free of charge. 154-155_EW_VTN.indd 155 14/07/16 4:43 pm 156-157_EW_VTN.indd 156 14/07/16 4:43 pm Hanoi, the “City within the River’s Bend,” was founded by Emperor Ly Thai To in AD 1010, near Co Loa, the ancient capital of the first Viet state dating back to the 3rd century BC. Ly Thai To structured this city, then known as Thang Long, around a massive citadel. To the east of this, a settlement of guilds was established to serve the needs of the royal court. By the 16th century, this area had developed into Hanoi’s celebrated Old Quarter (see pp160–61). The arrival of the French in the 19th century marked a period of reconstruction, as they tore down parts of the citadel and some ancient temples to make way for the new European quarter. However, this cultural vandalism was compensated for, to a large extent, by the magnificent colonial architecture they bequeathed the city. During the First Indochina War (see p47), the city’s central districts escaped largely unharmed, and subsequently, in 1954, Hanoi was proclaimed the capital of independent Vietnam. Sadly, this was not the end of its violent history as it was then plunged into the conflict-ridden years against the US. Hanoi entered the 21st century a little run down yet structurally sound despite the years of warfare. The Opera House is still grand, as is the Sofitel Legend Metropole Hotel. Today, Hanoi is an elegant, cultured, and affluent city, where museums and galleries coexist with chic shops and fashionable restaurants. One can wander, in a few minutes, from the narrow streets of the Old Quarter to the imposing mansions and buildings lining the leafy boulevards of the former French Quarter. Hanoi’s past has also ensured a superb culinary legacy, where French and Chinese cuisines blend marvelously with Viet tradi tions. The same is true of Hanoi’s lively arts scene, which is among the most sophisticated in Southeast Asia. A French-Colonial building in the old French Quarter of Hanoi HANOI The oldest and one of the most attractive capital cities in Southeast Asia, Hanoi exudes a rare sense of gracious charm and timelessness. At its core exists a 600-year-old ancient quarter, augmented by a century-old colonial city. Today, the rich cultural heritage of both blends in perfect harmony with growing modernization, as Hanoi claims its position as the heart of Vietnam. St Joseph’s Cathedral in Hanoi, Vietnam HANOI 157 156-157_EW_VTN.indd 157 14/07/16 4:43 pm HOAN KIEM DISTRICT OLD QUARTER FRENCH QUARTER HAI BA TRUNG DISTRICT BA DINH DISTRICT Gia Lam Bus Station Kim Ma Bus Station Giap Bat Bus Station BOTANICAL GARDEN LENIN PARK LE THAI TO NGUYEN BINH KHIEM T H E G I AO NG.SIEU HANG BUOM T H A N H HA TRUN G HAM TU QUAN KHAC CAN NGUYEN A U TRIEU HOA OL NG. GIA THIEU B U I T H I X U A N VUONG T R I E U V I E T MAI HAC DE CAM HOI T HO LAO D O N G N H A N HUONGVEI N P H U N G H U N G HOANG VAN THU LE HONG PHONG TA N A P NGHIA DUNG PHUC XA T H A N H N I EN TRAN THANH TON G GIA NGU NGUYEN KHAC NHU DUC CHINH NG.KHAC HIEU NG. BIEU NGUYEN T RUONG TO HOE NHAI HANG MA CHAU LONG PHAM HONG T HAI
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H A N G T R O N G HANG LUOC CHA CA H.CAN UONG VAN CAN LO SU NGO CHUA LIEN PHAI
TAT TO NGUYEN CAO KHUC HA SON TAY O DANG TAT C U D O N G N G U YE N K H I E T CHUONG DUONG CHUA MOT COT QUOC TU GIAM YEN THE NGO SI LIEN HOA BINH H A N G C H U O I DINH H O PHA M TAN G BAT HO Y-EC-XANH NGUYEN HUY TU P H A M N G U L AO Y E T K I E U NAM NGU NHA CHUNG LY QUOC SU TRAN B NI H TRONG NG. VAN TO HANG VOI HANG TRE HANG KHOAI
HANG CHIEU HANG DONG BAT SU NGUYEN DINH CHIEU TRU N G U Y E N CONG TO HIEN THANH D O I C A N B A C S O N Q U A N S U QUAN SU HANG DA CHU VAN AN TRAN QUOC TOAN HANG NGANG DONG XUAN DOAN TRAN NGHIEP LE PHUNG HIEU PHU D OAN NG THIEN THUAT PHAN B O I CH A U T H O N H U OM HANG GAI HANG BONG D CAU GO I E N B I E N P H U DOC LAP LY THAI TO NGUYEN HUU HUAN L E T H A N H T O N G H O A M A TU E T INH H U E H A N G B A I DINH TIEN HOANG HANG DAU HANG BE TRAN NGUYEN HA T RA N HUN G DAO T R A N H U N G D AO TUC MAC L Y N A M D E T R A N P H U T R A N P H U C U A B A C N G U Y E N T R I P H U O N G Q U A N T H A N H T H U Y K H U E P H U C T A N H A I B A T R U N G LY T H U O N G K I E T LY T H U O N G K I E T NGO THI N G O Q U Y E N NHAM HAN G BAC HANG BO Q U A N G T R U N G H A M L O N G BAT DAN THUOC BAC T RAN XUAN SOAN T R A N N H A N T O N G B A C H D ANG B A C H D A N G HANG BUN B A C H M A I B A C H M A I L E D A I H A N H H A N T H U Y E N L E VA N H U U N G U Y E N D U N G O C H A B A T R I E U B A T R I E U L O D U C L O D U C PHAN CHU TR NI H NG. THUONG HIEN H U N G V U O N G H U N G V U O N G HOANG DIEU L E D U A N L E D U A N HANG DAU PHAN DINH PHUNG HOANG HOA THAM T R A N K H A N H T R A N Q U A N G K H A I TRAN NHAT DUAT Y E N P H U Y E N P H U H . K H AY T R A N G T I E T R A N N G T H I N G U Y E N T H A I H O C TON DUC THANG T R A N K H AT C H A N D A I C O V I E T Hanoi Railway Station Long Bien Bus Station Kim Lien Bus Station Long Bien Station Phuc Tan Port Truc Bach Lake Thien Quang Lake Bay Mau Lake Giam Lake R e d R I v e r Exploring Hanoi Hanoi’s most significant sights and districts are marked on this map. Hoan Kiem Lake is popular for romantic strolls, morning exercise, and evening entertainment. The natural focus of the city center is to the north of the lovely lake. Known as the Old Quarter or 36 Streets, this area is packed with every imaginable merchandise, from shoes and silk to bamboo and lacquer prod ucts. To the south, which constitutes the downtown area, are the boulevards and archi tectural marvels of the former French Quarter. To the west is the tranquil Temple of Literature, and Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum, notable for its grandeur. 158 VIETNAM AREA BY AREA Churches, Temples, and Pagodas 2 Bach Ma Temple 5 St. Joseph’s Cathedral 7 Ambassador’s Pagoda q Hai Ba Trung Temple w Lien Phai Pagoda e Temple of Literature pp170–71 u One Pillar Pagoda s Kim Lien Pagoda g Thay Pagoda h Tay Phuong Pagoda j Hung Kings’ Temples Historic Buildings o Ho Chi Minh’s Stilt House p Hanoi Citadel d Co Loa Citadel Markets 1 Dong Xuan Market Museums and Theaters 3 Thang Long Water Puppet Theatre 6 Hoa Lo Prison Museum 9 Opera House 0 National Museum of Vietnamese History r Vietnam Fine Arts Museum t Vietnam Military History Museum y Ho Chi Minh Museum i Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum f Museum of Ethnology Lakes 4 Hoan Kiem Lake a Ho Tay Hotels 8 Sofitel Legend Metropole Hotel Sights at a Glance Key Highway Major road Minor road Railroad s a o i yu t p r e w q 0 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 £ @ @ @ @ @ 4 £ HOAN KIEM DISTRICT OLD QUARTER FRENCH QUARTER HAI BA TRUNG DISTRICT BA DINH DISTRICT Gia Lam Bus Station Kim Ma Bus Station Giap Bat Bus Station BOTANICAL GARDEN LENIN PARK LE THAI TO NGUYEN BINH KHIEM T H E G I AO NG.SIEU HANG BUOM T H A N H HA TRUN G HAM TU QUAN KHAC CAN NGUYEN A U TRIEU HOA OL NG. GIA THIEU B U I T H I X U A N VUONG T R I E U V I E T MAI HAC DE CAM HOI T HO LAO D O N G N H A N HUONGVEI N P H U N G H U N G HOANG VAN THU LE HONG PHONG TA N A P NGHIA DUNG PHUC XA T H A N H N I EN TRAN THANH TON G GIA NGU NGUYEN KHAC NHU DUC CHINH NG.KHAC HIEU NG. BIEU NGUYEN T RUONG TO HOE NHAI HANG MA CHAU LONG PHAM HONG T HAI
VA N M I E U T O N T H AT T H I E P NG. KHUYEN NGO NGO THONG PHONG CHUA VUA CHUA VUA T H I N H Y EN T H A N H N H A N N G O Q U Y N H NGO VAN HI V A N H O III CUA NAM TG DUY TAN H.QUAT
H A N G T R O N G HANG LUOC CHA CA H.CAN UONG VAN CAN LO SU NGO CHUA LIEN PHAI
TAT TO NGUYEN CAO KHUC HA SON TAY O DANG TAT C U D O N G N G U YE N K H I E T CHUONG DUONG CHUA MOT COT QUOC TU GIAM YEN THE NGO SI LIEN HOA BINH H A N G C H U O I DINH H O PHA M TAN G BAT HO Y-EC-XANH NGUYEN HUY TU P H A M N G U L AO Y E T K I E U NAM NGU NHA CHUNG LY QUOC SU TRAN B NI H TRONG NG. VAN TO HANG VOI HANG TRE HANG KHOAI
HANG CHIEU HANG DONG BAT SU NGUYEN DINH CHIEU TRU N G U Y E N CONG TO HIEN THANH D O I C A N B A C S O N Q U A N S U QUAN SU HANG DA CHU VAN AN TRAN QUOC TOAN HANG NGANG DONG XUAN DOAN TRAN NGHIEP LE PHUNG HIEU PHU D OAN NG THIEN THUAT PHAN B O I CH A U T H O N H U OM HANG GAI HANG BONG D CAU GO I E N B I E N P H U DOC LAP LY THAI TO NGUYEN HUU HUAN L E T H A N H T O N G H O A M A TU E T INH H U E H A N G B A I DINH TIEN HOANG HANG DAU HANG BE TRAN NGUYEN HA T RA N HUN G DAO T R A N H U N G D AO TUC MAC L Y N A M D E T R A N P H U T R A N P H U C U A B A C N G U Y E N T R I P H U O N G Q U A N T H A N H T H U Y K H U E P H U C T A N H A I B A T R U N G LY T H U O N G K I E T LY T H U O N G K I E T NGO THI N G O Q U Y E N NHAM HAN G BAC HANG BO Q U A N G T R U N G H A M L O N G BAT DAN THUOC BAC T RAN XUAN SOAN T R A N N H A N T O N G B A C H D ANG B A C H D A N G HANG BUN B A C H M A I B A C H M A I L E D A I H A N H H A N T H U Y E N L E VA N H U U N G U Y E N D U N G O C H A B A T R I E U B A T R I E U L O D U C L O D U C PHAN CHU TR NI H NG. THUONG HIEN H U N G V U O N G H U N G V U O N G HOANG DIEU L E D U A N L E D U A N HANG DAU PHAN DINH PHUNG HOANG HOA THAM T R A N K H A N H T R A N Q U A N G K H A I TRAN NHAT DUAT Y E N P H U Y E N P H U H . K H AY T R A N G T I E T R A N N G T H I N G U Y E N T H A I H O C TON DUC THANG T R A N K H AT C H A N D A I C O V I E T Hanoi Railway Station Long Bien Bus Station Kim Lien Bus Station Long Bien Station Phuc Tan Port Truc Bach Lake Thien Quang Lake Bay Mau Lake Giam Lake R e d R I v e r Around Hanoi 0 km 0 miles 10 10 6 6 32 21 1 A1 1 3 2 18 16 Da Red Red Quoc Oai Ha Dong Van Phuc Hanoi Viet Tri Son Tay Quang Oai Phong Chau Phu Lo Van Dien VINH PHU HA TAY HOA BINH HANOI Noi Bai Airport Gia Lam Bus Station For hotels and restaurants see pp239–40 and pp250–52 158-159_EW_VTN.indd 158 14/07/16 4:37 pm HOAN KIEM DISTRICT OLD QUARTER FRENCH QUARTER HAI BA TRUNG DISTRICT BA DINH DISTRICT Gia Lam Bus Station Kim Ma Bus Station Giap Bat Bus Station BOTANICAL GARDEN LENIN PARK LE THAI TO NGUYEN BINH KHIEM T H E G I AO NG.SIEU HANG BUOM T H A N H HA TRUN G HAM TU QUAN KHAC CAN NGUYEN A U TRIEU HOA OL NG. GIA THIEU B U I T H I X U A N VUONG T R I E U V I E T MAI HAC DE CAM HOI T HO LAO D O N G N H A N HUONGVEI N P H U N G H U N G HOANG VAN THU LE HONG PHONG TA N A P NGHIA DUNG PHUC XA T H A N H N I EN TRAN THANH TON G GIA NGU NGUYEN KHAC NHU DUC CHINH NG.KHAC HIEU NG. BIEU NGUYEN T RUONG TO HOE NHAI HANG MA CHAU LONG PHAM HONG T HAI
VA N M I E U T O N T H AT T H I E P NG. KHUYEN NGO NGO THONG PHONG CHUA VUA CHUA VUA T H I N H Y EN T H A N H N H A N N G O Q U Y N H NGO VAN HI V A N H O III CUA NAM TG DUY TAN H.QUAT
H A N G T R O N G HANG LUOC CHA CA H.CAN UONG VAN CAN LO SU NGO CHUA LIEN PHAI
TAT TO NGUYEN CAO KHUC HA SON TAY O DANG TAT C U D O N G N G U YE N K H I E T CHUONG DUONG CHUA MOT COT QUOC TU GIAM YEN THE NGO SI LIEN HOA BINH H A N G C H U O I DINH H O PHA M TAN G BAT HO Y-EC-XANH NGUYEN HUY TU P H A M N G U L AO Y E T K I E U NAM NGU NHA CHUNG LY QUOC SU TRAN B NI H TRONG NG. VAN TO HANG VOI HANG TRE HANG KHOAI
HANG CHIEU HANG DONG BAT SU NGUYEN DINH CHIEU TRU N G U Y E N CONG TO HIEN THANH D O I C A N B A C S O N Q U A N S U QUAN SU HANG DA CHU VAN AN TRAN QUOC TOAN HANG NGANG DONG XUAN DOAN TRAN NGHIEP LE PHUNG HIEU PHU D OAN NG THIEN THUAT PHAN B O I CH A U T H O N H U OM HANG GAI HANG BONG D CAU GO I E N B I E N P H U DOC LAP LY THAI TO NGUYEN HUU HUAN L E T H A N H T O N G H O A M A TU E T INH H U E H A N G B A I DINH TIEN HOANG HANG DAU HANG BE TRAN NGUYEN HA T RA N HUN G DAO T R A N H U N G D AO TUC MAC L Y N A M D E T R A N P H U T R A N P H U C U A B A C N G U Y E N T R I P H U O N G Q U A N T H A N H T H U Y K H U E P H U C T A N H A I B A T R U N G LY T H U O N G K I E T LY T H U O N G K I E T NGO THI N G O Q U Y E N NHAM HAN G BAC HANG BO Q U A N G T R U N G H A M L O N G BAT DAN THUOC BAC T RAN XUAN SOAN T R A N N H A N T O N G B A C H D ANG B A C H D A N G HANG BUN B A C H M A I B A C H M A I L E D A I H A N H H A N T H U Y E N L E VA N H U U N G U Y E N D U N G O C H A B A T R I E U B A T R I E U L O D U C L O D U C PHAN CHU TR NI H NG. THUONG HIEN H U N G V U O N G H U N G V U O N G HOANG DIEU L E D U A N L E D U A N HANG DAU PHAN DINH PHUNG HOANG HOA THAM T R A N K H A N H T R A N Q U A N G K H A I TRAN NHAT DUAT Y E N P H U Y E N P H U H . K H AY T R A N G T I E T R A N N G T H I N G U Y E N T H A I H O C TON DUC THANG T R A N K H AT C H A N D A I C O V I E T Hanoi Railway Station Long Bien Bus Station Kim Lien Bus Station Long Bien Station Phuc Tan Port Truc Bach Lake Thien Quang Lake Bay Mau Lake Giam Lake R e d R I v e r 158 VIETNAM AREA BY AREA HANOI 159 Getting Around Hanoi’s Old Quarter is small and fascinating enough to explore on foot, as is the area around Hoan Kiem Lake. Self-driven cars are not yet an option, though the brave, or reckless, may rent a bicycle or motorbike. Farther afield, it is better to take a taxi, though the city’s new metro system will be a welcome addition when it opens (due for completion in 2018). Most hotels and travel agencies can arrange taxis or minibuses to visit sights within the city as well as to the outskirts, on full or half-day tours. s a o i yu t p r e w q 0 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 £ @ @ @ @ @ 4 £ HOAN KIEM DISTRICT OLD QUARTER FRENCH QUARTER HAI BA TRUNG DISTRICT BA DINH DISTRICT Gia Lam Bus Station Kim Ma Bus Station Giap Bat Bus Station BOTANICAL GARDEN LENIN PARK LE THAI TO NGUYEN BINH KHIEM T H E G I AO NG.SIEU HANG BUOM T H A N H HA TRUN G HAM TU QUAN KHAC CAN NGUYEN A U TRIEU HOA OL NG. GIA THIEU B U I T H I X U A N VUONG T R I E U V I E T MAI HAC DE CAM HOI T HO LAO D O N G N H A N HUONGVEI N P H U N G H U N G HOANG VAN THU LE HONG PHONG TA N A P NGHIA DUNG PHUC XA T H A N H N I EN TRAN THANH TON G GIA NGU NGUYEN KHAC NHU DUC CHINH NG.KHAC HIEU NG. BIEU NGUYEN T RUONG TO HOE NHAI HANG MA CHAU LONG PHAM HONG T HAI
VA N M I E U T O N T H AT T H I E P NG. KHUYEN NGO NGO THONG PHONG CHUA VUA CHUA VUA T H I N H Y EN T H A N H N H A N N G O Q U Y N H NGO VAN HI V A N H O III CUA NAM TG DUY TAN H.QUAT
H A N G T R O N G HANG LUOC CHA CA H.CAN UONG VAN CAN LO SU NGO CHUA LIEN PHAI
TAT TO NGUYEN CAO KHUC HA SON TAY O DANG TAT C U D O N G N G U YE N K H I E T CHUONG DUONG CHUA MOT COT QUOC TU GIAM YEN THE NGO SI LIEN HOA BINH H A N G C H U O I DINH H O PHA M TAN G BAT HO Y-EC-XANH NGUYEN HUY TU P H A M N G U L AO Y E T K I E U NAM NGU NHA CHUNG LY QUOC SU TRAN B NI H TRONG NG. VAN TO HANG VOI HANG TRE HANG KHOAI
HANG CHIEU HANG DONG BAT SU NGUYEN DINH CHIEU TRU N G U Y E N CONG TO HIEN THANH D O I C A N B A C S O N Q U A N S U QUAN SU HANG DA CHU VAN AN TRAN QUOC TOAN HANG NGANG DONG XUAN DOAN TRAN NGHIEP LE PHUNG HIEU PHU D OAN NG THIEN THUAT PHAN B O I CH A U T H O N H U OM HANG GAI HANG BONG D CAU GO I E N B I E N P H U DOC LAP LY THAI TO NGUYEN HUU HUAN L E T H A N H T O N G H O A M A TU E T INH H U E H A N G B A I DINH TIEN HOANG HANG DAU HANG BE TRAN NGUYEN HA T RA N HUN G DAO T R A N H U N G D AO TUC MAC L Y N A M D E T R A N P H U T R A N P H U C U A B A C N G U Y E N T R I P H U O N G Q U A N T H A N H T H U Y K H U E P H U C T A N H A I B A T R U N G LY T H U O N G K I E T LY T H U O N G K I E T NGO THI N G O Q U Y E N NHAM HAN G BAC HANG BO Q U A N G T R U N G H A M L O N G BAT DAN THUOC BAC T RAN XUAN SOAN T R A N N H A N T O N G B A C H D ANG B A C H D A N G HANG BUN B A C H M A I B A C H M A I L E D A I H A N H H A N T H U Y E N L E VA N H U U N G U Y E N D U N G O C H A B A T R I E U B A T R I E U L O D U C L O D U C PHAN CHU TR NI H NG. THUONG HIEN H U N G V U O N G H U N G V U O N G HOANG DIEU L E D U A N L E D U A N HANG DAU PHAN DINH PHUNG HOANG HOA THAM T R A N K H A N H T R A N Q U A N G K H A I TRAN NHAT DUAT Y E N P H U Y E N P H U H . K H AY T R A N G T I E T R A N N G T H I N G U Y E N T H A I H O C TON DUC THANG T R A N K H AT C H A N D A I C O V I E T Hanoi Railway Station Long Bien Bus Station Kim Lien Bus Station Long Bien Station Phuc Tan Port Truc Bach Lake Thien Quang Lake Bay Mau Lake Giam Lake R e d R I v e r 0 meters 0 yards 800 800 For hotels and restaurants see pp239–40 and pp250–52 For keys to symbols see back flap 158-159_EW_VTN.indd 159 14/07/16 4:37 pm Street-by-Street: Old Quarter Buzzing with noise and activity, the Old Quarter is the oldest and most lively commercial district in Hanoi. During the 13th century, several artisans settled along the Red River to cater to the needs of the palace. Later, the crafts became concen trated in this area, with each street specializing in a particular product. Over the years, 36 distinct crafts guilds came into existence, and the area earned its nickname of 36 Streets. Today, with nar row alleys packed with hundreds of small shops, restaurants, and ancient tube houses (see p31), the Old Quarter retains its historic charm. 160 VIETNAM AREA BY AREA For hotels and restaurants see pp239–40 and pp250–52 Facades of the centuries-old narrow, long tube houses in the Old Quarter 1 . Dong Xuan Market Occupying a three-storied building, Dong Xuan is the oldest market in town, sell ing a variety of goods, including clothes, foods, household items, and more. Key Suggested route Weekend Night Market On Friday, Saturday and Sunday, from 7pm onwards, Hang Duong and the adjoining streets of Hang Ngang and Hang Dao host a Weekend Night Market, selling inexpensive goods and snacks. Hang Ma Street Overflowing with sparkling paper products, Hang Ma or Votive Paper Street sells bright and colorful lanterns, “gold” ingots, tinsel, paper money, paper houses, and other paper replicas of material possessions to be burned as votive offerings to deceased ancestors. H A N G C A D O N G X U A N C A U D O N G H A N G C H I E W N G O G A C H H A N G D U O N G C H A C A N G U Y E N S I E U H A N G C H I E W H A N G M A N G Y U E N T H I E N T H U A T D a o D u y T u L A N G O N G H A N G G I A Y 0 meters 0 yards 100 100 160-161_EW_VTN.indd 160 14/07/16 4:37 pm To Den Ngoc Son 2 . Bach Ma Temple The oldest religious building in the Old Quarter, this small temple is dedicated to the city’s guardian spirit, represented by a magical white horse. Quan Chuong or the Gate of the Commander of the Regiment is the only remain ing gateway to the Old Quarter out of the original 36. Memorial House Museum Once the home of an affluent Chinese family, this beautifully restored tube house provides an excellent insight into the lives of mer chants who lived in the Old Quarter centuries ago. Hang Buom Street Formerly the Sailmakers Street, Hang Buom now sells a remark able selection of locally made sweetmeats and candies, many different varieties of fresh ground coffee, and imported alcohol, chiefly whiskies, brandies, and even wines. Street Names in the Old Quarter Most of the streets in the Old Quarter are named after the trade guilds that they once represented. The street names generally begin with the word hang, which means merchandise, while the second word describes the type of product. Streets here include Hang Gai (Silk Street), Hang Tre (Bamboo Street), Hang Bac (Silver Street), Hang Huong (Incense Street), and so on. Today, most of the streets in the Old Quarter offer prod ucts other than just what their name suggests. Even so, the sur vival of this system of guild streets is probably unique in East Asia. Musical instruments, Hang Non Street Hang Mam Street or Pickled Fish Street is now lined with shops selling marble headstones, often engraved with an image of the deceased. H A N G B U O M N G O G A C H H A N G D U O N G D A O D U Y T U N G U Y E N S I E U M A M A Y L O N G N G O C Q U Y E N H A N G M A M H A N G C H I N H H A N G C H I E W H A N G B U O M H A N G B E D a o D u y T u H A N G G I A Y HANOI 161 Locator Map 160-161_EW_VTN.indd 161 14/07/16 4:37 pm 162 VIETNAM AREA BY AREA For hotels and restaurants see pp239–40 and pp250–52 2 Bach Ma Temple 76 Hang Buom St, Old Quarter. Map 2 E2. Open sunrise–sunset daily. This small yet elegant temple is the oldest building in the Old Quarter (see pp160–61), dating in its original form from the founding of the capital city of Thang Long (see p164), which became known as Hanoi in the 19th century. According to legend, when King Ly Thai To established the capital in 1010, the city walls kept falling down until a magical white horse appeared and indicated where the new fortifications should be built. In an expression of his gratitude, Ly Thai To built the Bach Ma or White Horse Temple, and Bach Ma became the guardian spirit of the city. 3 Thang Long Water Puppet Theatre 57 B Dinh Tien Hoang St, Hoan Kiem District. Map 2 E3. Tel (04) 3825 5450. Open performances at 3pm, 4:10pm, 5:20pm, 6:30pm and 8pm daily; also 9:30pm Sun. & extra for still and video cameras. - = ∑thanglongwaterpuppet.org This is possibly the best place, not just in Hanoi, but in the entire country, to see performances of the traditional art of roi nuoc or water puppetry. The showmanship is excellent as master puppeteers make extensive use of dramatic music from the traditional orchestra and startling special effects, such as smoke, firecrackers, and water-spraying dragon puppets to create a lively performance. At the end of the show, the bamboo curtain behind the watery stage rises to show the puppeteers, standing waist deep in water. Seats closest to the stage provide superb opportunities for photography. 1 Dong Xuan Market Intersection of Dong Xuan and Hang Chieu sts, Old Quarter. Map 2 E2. Tel (04) 3829 5006. Open 6am–6pm daily. - = As the oldest and largest covered market in Hanoi, Cho Dong Xuan holds a dominant position in the city. Near the end of the 19th century, the French tore down the old East Bridge Market that stood at this site, and replaced it with a covered building with five large halls. Dong Xuan is named after a hamlet that once stood on this site and is now a commercial center. However, in 1994, the market suffered a major setback when a massive fire burnt down much of the building. Although it was rebuilt in 1996, all that remains of the original structure is the restored 1889 façade. Today, this bustling threestory structure is packed with a wide range of clothing and household goods, fresh vegetables, meat and fish, and varieties of rice. Apart from local items, some low-cost, foreign goods are sold too. Located nearby is the historic Memorial altar to General Ma Vien set amid flowers, Bach Ma Temple Puppets at the popular Thang Long Water Puppet Theatre The temple was restored in the 19th century, with contributions from the Hoa Chinese community settled on Hang Buom Street. Although a statue of the white horse still features prominently, the Hoa also introduced the veneration of Ma Vien, the Chinese general who re-established Chinese control over Vietnam in AD 43. An antique, carved palanquin is also on display. Long Bien Bridge. Its strategic importance as the only bridge across Hanoi’s Red River made it a prime target of the US Air Force during the Vietnam War(see pp48–9). It survived the heavy bombing and is now used by crowds of hawkers and pedestrians. 162-163_EW_VTN.indd 162 14/07/16 4:43 pm HANOI 163 Water Puppet Theater Originating in the Red River Delta, and believed to date back almost a thousand years, roi nuoc or water puppetry is one of the most authentic expres sions of Vietnamese culture. In times past, performances were held in villages, using rivers, lakes, or rice fields. Today, they are staged in large water-filled tanks at theaters. Hiding behind the stage, the puppeteers stand waist deep in water and maneuver their wooden charges to the music of a traditional orchestra. Special effects, including fire-breathing dragons, smoke, and fireworks add excitement to the show. The tales are told from the age-old perspective of a peasant culture and feature traditional protagonists and villains such as warrior heroes, corrupt landlords, and cruel rulers. Live singers and instrumentalists enhance the puppeteers’ performance. The music rises to a crescendo at key moments in the story and accompanies the show at all times. An elaborate parasol symbolizes rank and authority. Ty ba, a popular plucking stringed instrument, used by musicians in many traditional orchestras. Made of light wood, it has four strings on its long neck. A fake palm tree adds a rural touch to the set. Village folk surround a dragon, a much-loved and auspicious mythical creature that is one of the most prominent characters. Puppeteers emerge from behind the curtain at the end of the show. Their skill is acknowledged by claps and rousing cheers. Puppets are carved from water-resistant wood, generally that of the fig tree or sung, and painted with bright colors. A palanquin is being carried by servants. Popular Themes The themes of roi nuoc are usually traditional and pertain to rural life. Mythical beasts in Viet culture such as dragons, phoenixes, and uni corns, feature prominently, as do water buffalos and other domestic animals. 162-163_EW_VTN.indd 163 14/07/16 4:43 pm For hotels and restaurants see pp239–40 and pp250–52 4 Hoan Kiem Lake Hoan Kiem District. Map 2 E3. Open 24 hours daily. 0 - \= Den Ngoc Son Hoan Kiem Lake. Open 7am–7pm daily. Situated in the heart of Hanoi, this delightful body of water also lies close to the hearts of the Vietnamese people. Legend has it that in the early 15th century, during the Ming Chinese occupation (see p44), General Le Loi was presented with a magical sword by a divine, golden turtle, which lived in the lake’s waters. With the help of this sword, Le Loi expelled the Chinese from Thang Long, presentday Hanoi, and established him self as Emperor Le Thai To. Some time later, when the emperor was sailing on the lake, the divine turtle once again rose to the surface and reclaim ed the sword. Since Scenic setting of The Huc or the Sunbeam Bridge, Hoan Kiem Lake The Founding of Thang Long In AD 968, Tien Hoang De, the first ruler of the Dinh Dynasty, moved his capital from Dai La, situated in the immediate vicinity of modernday Hanoi, to Hoa Lu, 50 miles (80 km) to the south in Ninh Binh Province. With this move, Tien Hoang intended to relocate to a region that would be as far removed as possible from the Chinese frontier. However, this shift would not last for long. Just 42 years later, Ly Thai To, founder of the Ly Dynasty, grew dissatisfied with the physical isolation of Hoa Lu and determined to move the capital back to Dai La. In 1010, he returned to the former capital, defeated the Chinese in a violent battle, and established his kingdom here. According to legend, as he entered the city, a golden dragon took off from the top of the citadel and soared into the heavens. This event was taken by the emperor as an auspicious sign, and he renamed the city Thang Long or Ascending Dragon. then, the lake has been known as Ho Hoan Kiem, or the Lake of the Restored Sword. In the mid19th century, a small pagoda called Thap Rua or Turtle Tower was built to commemorate this supernatu ral event. Located on an islet in the center of the lake, the structure has since become a prominent city icon. On an island at the northern end of Hoan Kiem Lake stands Den Ngoc Son or Jade Mountain Temple, one of the most beautiful and revered religious buildings in the capital. The temple can be accessed by an attractive redpainted, arched wooden bridge. This is the cele brated The Huc or Sunbeam Bridge. Dating from the Nguyen Dynasty in the early 1800s, the temple’s building is exquisitely preserved. Decorated with upswept eaves and elaborate carved dragons, the predominant colors are red, gold, yellow, and black. The temple was established by a mandarin named Nguyen Van Sieu. A stylized stone ink slab rests atop the temple’s gate, while nearby, a tapering stone pillar represents a traditional writing brush. The ideograms on the stele translate as “writing on a clear sky.” A giant turtle that died in the lake in 1968 is preserved in a room at the back. Den Ngoc Son is dedicated to the spirits of the soil, medicine, and literature, as well as to Tran Hung Dao, the general who defeated the Mongols in the 13th century (see p44). To the east of the lake is the large, bronze Statue of Ly Thai To, honoring the great founder of Thang Long. The statue, which has already become quite popular with pious Vietnamese, is venerated with incense and flowers. Today, Hoan Kiem Lake is one of the city’s most popular venues, generally packed with couples taking a stroll, people practicing Tai Chi, and old men playing chess. The lake also plays a major role during the city’s Tet celebrations (see pp32–3), with stages for live music and a huge fireworks display. Puppets of golden dragons, an auspicious The Thap Rua, or Turtle Tower reflected in mythical creature Hoan Kiem Lake 164 VIETNAM AREA BY AREA 164-165_EW_VTN.indd 164 14/07/16 4:43 pm 5 St Joseph’s Cathedral Nha Tho St, Hoan Kiem District. Map 2 E3. Tel (04) 3828 5967. Open 5am–7pm daily. Chua Ba Da: 3 Nha Tho St, Hoan Kiem District. Open sunrise–sunset daily. Hanoi’s most important church, St Joseph’s Cathedral, also known as Nha Tho Lon, was inaugurated in 1886, and provides a focal point for the city’s Catholics. Built in the late NeoGothic style, the building, with its majestic spires, is architectur ally similar to a cathedral that might be found in any French provincial town. The interiors, which are more noteworthy, feature an ornate altar, French stainedglass windows, and a basrelief painting of the Three Kings, complete with camels, on the cathedral’s rear wall. St. Joseph’s is usually packed to capacity on Sundays and on major holidays such as Easter and Christmas. However, on most days, its main doors are generally closed except during mass, but it is possible to gain entry via the side door. Located to the east of the cathedral is Chua Ba Da or Stone Lady’s Pagoda. Dating 7 Ambassador’s Pagoda 73 Quan Su St, Hoan Kiem District. Map 2 D4. Tel (04) 3825 2427. Open 8–11am, 1–4pm daily. = Established as a stopping point for visiting Buddhist dignitaries, Chua Quan Su or Ambassador’s Pagoda is named after a guesthouse that once stood here in the 15th century. The official center of Mahayana Buddhism in Hanoi, it is one of the most popular pagodas in the city, attracting hundreds of follow ers, especially during important Buddhist holidays. The presentday pagoda dates from 1942 and houses images of the past, present, and future incarnations of the Buddha – the A Di Da or Amitabha, Thich Ca or Sakyamuni, and Di Lac or Maitreya Buddhas. Many nuns and monks are in attendance. A small shop by the entrance sells Buddhist paraphernalia and ritualistic items. Neo-Gothic façade and imposing spires of St Joseph’s Cathedral 6 Hoa Lo Prison Museum 1 Hoa Lo St, Hoan Kiem District. Map 2 D4. Tel (04) 3824 6358. Open 8am–5pm daily. & = Located in downtown Hanoi, the infamous Hoa Lo Prison was built by the French admin istration in 1896. Originally intended to hold around 450 prisoners, by the 1930s the number of detainees had soared to almost 2,000, the majority of them being poli tical prisoners. During the Vietnam War, Hoa Lo Prison achieved notoriety as a place of incar ceration for downed US pilots, who ironically nick named it the Hanoi Hilton. Named Maison Centrale during the French rule – the original sign still hangs over the entrance – most of the prison complex was demol ished in 1997 in order to make way for the Hanoi Towers buildings. However, the architects preserved enough of the old prison to create the Hoa Lo Prison Museum. The majority of the exhibits here include a horrifying array of shackles, whips, and other instruments of torture, as well as tiny solitary confinement cells, which date from the Frenchcolonial period. Also on display is part of the old, narrow sewer system through which more Ornate altar with multi-armed Buddha, Ambassador’s Pagoda than 100 prisoners escaped in August 1945. A small section of the museum is devoted to the American period, contriving to show how well US prisoners (including US senator John McCain) supposedly fared in contrast to the brutality shown to the Vietnamese by the French. At the back of the museum is a guillotine, a surprisingly simple yet terrifyingly efficient killing machine. Mural showcasing colonial torture, Hoa Lo Prison Museum back to the 15th century, the pagoda was once known as Linh Quang or Holy Light. However, according to legend, the discovery of a woman’s stone statue when the pagoda was being restored led to its more common local name. Entered by a narrow alley, Chua Ba Da is an oasis of tranquility in the heart of old Hanoi. The pagoda features several statues of the Thich Ca or Sakyamuni Buddha, and also contains two large, antique bronze bells. HANOI 165 164-165_EW_VTN.indd 165 14/07/16 4:43 pm 166 VIETNAM AREA BY AREA For hotels and restaurants see pp239–40 and pp250–52 8 Sofitel Legend Metropole Hotel 15 Ngo Quyen St, Hoan Kiem District. Map 2 F4. Tel (04) 3826 6919. Open 24 hours daily. 7 0 - = ∑sofitel-legend.com Government Guest House: 10 Ngo Quyen St, Hoan Kiem District. Closed to public. Hanoi’s most prestigious and oldest hotel, the Metropole was built in French-Colonial style, with plenty of wrought iron and Art Nouveau decorations. Originally opened in 1901, it was for many years the most favored accommodation in all of French Indochina. Notable guests, both past and present, include actors, writers, heads of state, and many other well-known public figures, such as W. Somerset Maugham (1874–1965), Charlie Chaplin (1889–1977), Graham Greene (1904–91), Noël Coward (1899– 1973), Michael Caine, and Vladimir Putin. Although the hotel became deplorably rundown during the austere years of state socialism between 1954 and 1986, it has since been magni ficently restored to its former glory and luxurious grandeur. The striking Government Guest House, just to the north of the Metropole, was built in 1919 as the palace of a French governor. Its colonial façade and multi-tiered portico in cast iron are attractive and well worth a second look. 9 Opera House 1 Trang Tien St, Hoan Kiem District. Map 2 F4. Tel (04) 3933 0133. Open during performances. & 7 - ∑hanoioperahouse.org.vn Modeled on the Paris Opera designed by Charles Garnier, the Hanoi Opera House, also known as Nha Hat Lon or Big Song House, opened in 1911. It formed the centerpiece of French-Colonial architecture, not just in Hanoi, but in all of French Indochina. Before World War II, the Opera House was at the center of the city’s cultural life. At the end of the French rule, however, it gradually fell into disrepair. During the years prior to the nation’s economic and cultural liberalization in the late 1980s, visiting Chinese or Russian artistes would appear. Performances such as the militant ballet Red Detachment of Women or a musical recital by an ensemble from Kiev, now in the Ukraine, were held here. By the mid-1980s, even these limited cultural exchanges had ceased, and the Opera House was all but abandoned. Then, in 1994, the authorities decided to restore and reopen the Opera in a three-year project costing US$14 million. Today, the colonnaded building, with refurbished gilt mirrors and grand stairways, is a magnificent sight. The 600-seat theater, boasting state-of-the-art audio facilities, stages Vietnamese operetta, ballets, and piano recitals. Home to the Hanoi Symphony Orchestra, it also hosts shows by visiting companies such as the Philadelphia Symphony Orchestra. Grand colonnaded façade of the Opera House 0 National Museum of Vietnamese History 1 Pham Ngu Lao St, Hoan Kiem District. Map 2 F4. Tel (04) 3824 1384. Open 8am–noon, 1:30–5pm daily. Closed first Mon of each month.& 8 by prior arrangement. = ∑baotanglichsu.vn Originally known as the École Française d’Extrême-Orient, this museum was built in 1925. Designed by Ernest Hébrard, it heralded a new hybrid style of architecture – Indochinoise – incorporating several elements of French, Khmer, and Vietnamese styles. Anchored by an octagonal pagoda, the building is painted ochre-yellow, and offset by dark green shutters. And although it is ornamented with fanciful colonnades, brackets, and balustrades, the overall effect is Oriental. Known in Vietnamese as Bao Tang Lich Su, the museum is one of the best in Vietnam. It is spread over two floors and features a fine collection of artifacts from the prehistoric Dong Son culture of the Red River Delta, as well as the ancient Sa Huynh and Oc Eo civilizations of southern Vietnam. The museum also has sculptures dating from the Champa Empire. Some of the exhibits include wood en stakes from the 13th-century Battle of Bach Dang (see p44). The park behind the museum has a Sculpture, Vietnamese History Museum Courtyard garden and restaurant of the Sofitel Legend Metropole Hotel 166-167_EW_VTN.indd 166 14/07/16 4:43 pm HANOI 167 Trung Sisters The first century AD was a period of resentment against Chinese rule. In AD 40, Trung Trac and her sister, Trung Nhi, set up an army with the aid of the Vietnamese lords. Fighting fearlessly, they expelled the Chinese, and established their own kingdom at Me Linh in the Red River Delta. In AD 43, however, the Chinese quelled the rebellion. To avoid capture, the sisters committed suicide by jumping into the Hat River. Centuries later, stone figures of two women washed up on a sandbank in the Red River. Believed to be the earthly remains of the Trung Sisters, petrified and turned into statues, they were taken to Dong Nhan village, now Hai Ba Trung District, and installed in a temple there. Today, the sisters are honored as heroes of national independence. Ornate altar venerating the Trung Sisters q Hai Ba Trung Temple Dong Nhan St, Hai Ba Trung District. Open only during festivals. _ Hai Ba Trung Festival (early Mar). One of the most important temple complexes in the country, the Hai Ba Trung Temple is dedicated to the popular cult of deified heroes. It honors the heroic Trung Sisters, who were successful in expelling the Chinese for a brief period in the first century AD. Founded by Emperor Ly Anh Ton in 1142, the temple enshrines the supposedly petrified mortal remains of the sisters. The temple stands on the west bank of a small artificial lake called Huong Vien, and is entered through a broad gateway flanked by tall white columns bearing auspicious Chinese symbols and charac ters for longevity, and surmounted by stylized lotus flowers. The temple is generally not open to the public. However, during the annual festival (see p34), it attracts hundreds of devotees. During this grand event, both the statues are bathed in water from the nearby Red River and dressed in new red robes. Guardian, Hai Ba Trung Temple Indochinoise architecture of the National Museum of Vietnamese History w Lien Phai Pagoda Ngo Chua Lien Phai St, Hai Ba Trung District. Tel (04) 3590 6442. Open 7–11am, 1:30–5:30pm daily. Lien Phai Pagoda or the Pagoda of the Lotus Sect, is one of the few surviving relics of the Trinh lords (see p45) in Hanoi. According to the inscrip tion on the central stele, Lord Trinh Thap had a palace in this area, and one day his workers dug up a huge rock shaped like a lotus root in the palace gardens. Trinh Thap took this as an indication from the Buddha that he should abandon his privileged life and become a monk. He or der ed a temple to be built at the palace where the stone was discovered. The pagoda was built in 1726, and Trinh Thap spent the remainder of his life here as a monk. When he died, his ashes were inter red in the pagoda, and some of his calligraphy hangs by the main altar. The most impressive structure here is the Dieu Quang or Miraculous Light Tower, which rises through ten levels. The Lotus Sect, founded by Trinh Thap, honors the A Di Da or Amitabha Buddha, and believes that by chanting his name and ridding oneself of desire, one can be reborn in the West ern Paradise of Sukhavati or Pure Land. This sect is very popular in China and Japan. garden with statues of Cham goddesses and Khmer lions, and Vietnamese-style dragons. 166-167_EW_VTN.indd 167 14/07/16 4:43 pm 168 VIETNAM AREA BY AREA For hotels and restaurants see pp239–40 and pp250–52 rVietnam Fine Arts Museum 66 Nguyen Thai Hoc St, Ba Dinh District. Map 1 B3. Tel (04) 3823 3084. Open 8:30am–5pm daily. & 8 ∑ vnfam.vn Housed in a fine old colonial building, the Bao Tang My Thuat or Fine Arts Museum boasts a varied and interesting selection of Vietnam’s artifacts, architecture, paintings, sculpture, and many other works of art. The exhibits are displayed chronologically, starting with a fine collection of Stone and Bronze Age relics on the first floor. Several wood, stone, and lacquer sculptures feature as well, illustrating the versatile nature of Vietnamese art. One of the highlights here is an extraordinary Bodhisattva or Enlightened Being that supposedly has 1,000 eyes and arms. The exhibition rooms on the second floor contain some of the country’s best lacquer Tank of the National Liberation Front in the Vietnam Military History Museum A many-armed statue of the Buddha, Vietnam Fine Arts Museum t Vietnam Military History Museum 28A Dien Bien Phu St, Ba Dinh District. Map 1 C3. Tel (04) 3823 4264. Open 8–11:30am, 1–4:30pm Tue–Thu & Sat–Sun. & 8 Located at the southern end of the historic Hanoi Citadel and adjacent to the Flag Tower, the Vietnam Military History Museum is set in former French barracks, comprising a complex of 30 galleries. Tracing the development and history of Vietnam’s armed forces over the centuries, this museum is one of the most important war museums of the country. It features a varied collection of displays relating to the country’s early battles against the Chinese and the Mongols. Precedence is, however, given to the nation’s more recent wars against France, Cambodia’s Khmer Rouge, China, and the US. The exhibits include films, black-and-white photographs, and other archival footage. The diorama of the Battle of Dien Bien Phu (see p199) is definitely worth seeing. The courtyard outside the museum is filled with several y Ho Chi Minh Museum 19 Ngoc Ha St, Ba Dinh District. Map 1 B2. Tel (04) 3845 5435. Open 8am–4:30pm Tue–Thu & Sat– Sun; 8am–12pm Mon, Fri. & 8 ∑ baotanghochiminh.vn Established in 1990 – one century after Ho Chi Minh’s birth (see p173) – this museum chronicles and celebrates the revolutionary leader’s life and achievements in an often bizarre series of displays. These include an eclectic mix of his personal memorabilia, as well as black-and-white photographs from his youth and the long period he spent abroad in Europe and China. Other displays include art installations that represent abstract concepts such as freedom and social progress. Unapologetically partisan, the museum is nevertheless informative, unusual, and well presented. reminders of war, including wrecked French, Soviet, and American military equipment, weaponry, and fighter planes, as well as a carefully preserved Soviet MIG-21, a must-see. Next to the museum is the hexagonal Flag Tower or Cot Co. Like the Turtle Tower on Hoan Kiem Lake (see p164), the tower is an important symbol, not just of Hanoi, but of Vietnamese armed forces. Opposite the museum, situated in a small park is a commanding statue of Lenin. e Temple of Literature See pp170–71. paintings, and the third floor hosts many watercolor and oil works by Vietnamese artists. Other exhibits include carvings from the Central Highlands, wood-block paintings from the Dong Ho culture, and ethnic clothing. Replicas of antique pieces are for sale in the museum shop. Stern, whitewashed façade of the Ho Chi Minh Museum 168-169_EW_VTN.indd 168 14/07/16 4:43 pm HANOI 169 i Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum Ba Dinh Sq, Ba Dinh District. Map 1 B2. Open 8–11am Tue–Thu & Sat–Sun. Closed closed for about two months a year, usually in Oct & Nov, for embalming maintenance. ^ On the west side of Ba Dinh Square, a heavy grey structure, built of stone quarried from Marble Mountain near Danang (see p138), is Ho Chi Minh’s last resting place. An unassuming man, who prided himself on an austere, almost ascetic public image, Ho Chi Minh had allegedly requested that he be cremated and his ashes scattered in Northern, Central, and Southern Vietnam, symbolizing the national unity to which he had devoted his life. In keeping with these beliefs, it is said that he also vetoed the construction of a small museum on his life at his home village near Kim Lien (see p155), arguing that the funds could be better employed in building a school. However, after Ho Chi Minh’s death in 1969, the leading members of the Vietnamese politburo reportedly altered his final testament by deleting his request to be cremated. Instead, with the help of Soviet specialists, the leader was embalmed and installed at the Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum in 1975. The building’s exterior is considered by many as both ponderous and unappeal ing. Astonishingly, the architects supposedly intended the struc ture to represent a lotus flower, though it is difficult to understand how. Inside, the mood is somber and decidedly respectful. Ho Chi Minh, dressed in simple clothing favored by Chinese nationalist leader Sun Yat Sen, lies in a chilled, dim room, his crossed hands resting on dark cloth covers. The mausoleum is an important pilgrimage site for many Vietnamese, especially from the north, and should be approached with respect and reverence. Any kind of noisy behavior, loitering, and inappropriate clothing is strictly forbidden. Steps leading up to the small and charming One Pillar Pagoda uOne Pillar Pagoda 8 Chua Mot St, Ba Dinh District. Map 1 B2. Open 8–11am, 1–4pm daily. Rivaling Cot Co as one of Hanoi’s most prominent icons, the Chua Mot Cot or the One Pillar Pagoda was constructed by Emperor Ly Thai Tong in AD 1049. Situated within the tiny Dien Huu Pagoda, also dating from the 11th century, this wooden pagoda is built, as the name suggests, on a single stone pillar, standing in an elegant lotus pond. According to legend, the king, who had no son, had a dream in which he was visited by Quan Am, Goddess of Mercy. She was sitting on a lotus flower and presented him with a baby boy. Soon after, Ly Thai Tong married a new young queen who bore him a son. To show his gratitude, the emperor ordered the construction of a singlepillared pagoda representing a lotus flower. It represents purity, like a lotus blossoming in a muddy pond. The pillar is built of stone and is 4 ft (1.25 m) in diameter. Over the centuries, One Pillar Pagoda has been damaged and reconstructed on numerous occasions. However, none of these acts of destruction is harder to fathom than its burning by the French in 1954. The somber exterior of Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum o Ho Chi Minh’s Stilt House 1 Bach Thao St, Presidential Palace, Ba Dinh District. Map 1 B2. Open 7:30– 11:30am, 2–4pm Tue–Thu & Sat–Sun. & Botanical Gardens: Hoang Hoa Tham St. Open 7:30am–10pm daily. 7 - Believing that the Presidential Palace was too grand for him, Ho Chi Minh, on becoming president of the Democratic Republic of Vietnam in 1954, arranged for a modest wooden structure to be built in a corner of the palace’s extensive grounds. Modeled on an ethnic minority stilt house, this unassuming twostory structure is known as Nha Bac Ho or Uncle Ho’s House. Next to the stilts and surrounded by plants are the tables and chairs that were used by members of the politburo during meetings with Ho Chi Minh. Wooden stairs at the back of the house lead to two rooms: a study and a bedroom, both kept just as they were when the great man was alive. The study has an antique typewriter and a bookcase. The bed room is even more spartan, with a bed, electric clock, an oldfashioned telephone, and radio as the only concessions to comfort. Surrounding the modest house are carefully tended gardens with weeping willows, mango trees, and fragrant frangipani and jasmine. Ho Chi Minh lived here from 1958 to 1969. Close to the presidential stilt house, the Botanical Gardens boast two lakes and abundant greenery, as well as a permanent sculpture exhibition. 168-169_EW_VTN.indd 169 14/07/16 4:43 pm 170 VIETNAM AREA BY AREA For hotels and restaurants see pp239–40 and pp250–52 . Khue Van Cac Also known as the Constellation of Literature, this ornate gate was built in 1805 to reflect the brilliance of Van Mieu’s literary legacy. Its upper story features four radiating suns facing the cardinal points. Van Mieu Gate, the elegant entrance to the Temple of Literature Well of Heavenly Clarity A square pool known as Thien Quang Tinh or the Well of Heavenly Clarity dominates the third courtyard. On either side of the pond are covered buildings that house 82 stone stelae, the most prized relics of the temple. e Temple of Literature The oldest and possibly the finest architectural complex in Hanoi, Van Mieu or the Temple of Literature, was established in 1070, during the Ly Dynasty (1009–1225). Founded in honor of the Chinese philosopher Confucius, it served as a center for higher learning, edu cating future mandarins for more than seven centuries. The temple was modeled on the ori ginal Temple of Confucius in the Chinese city of Qufu, and consists of five courtyards, the first two of which feature welltended gardens. Each courtyard is separated by walls and ornamental gate ways, and a central pathway through the complex divides it into two symmetrical halves. Human Chess During Tet, the fourth courtyard is the venue for human chess. Dressed in colorful cos tumes, the parti ci pants, each repre senting a chess piece, move accor ding to direc tions given by players. Buddhist monks strolling through the gardens of the first courtyard KEY 1 A magnificent bell tower was added to the fifth courtyard during recent restoration. 2 The Thai Hoc Hall shelters an altar dedicated to Chu Van An, former director of the Imperial Academy, as well as images of three Ly Dynasty emperors. 170-171_EW_VTN.indd 170 14/07/16 4:43 pm HANOI 171 . Temple of Confucius Located just behind Bai Duong, is the long, redlacquered and gilt temple to Confucius. Inside are statues of the great philosopher and four of his main disciples, all dressed in rich robes of red and gold. . Altar of Confucius Bai Duong or the House of Ceremonies hosts the elaborately decorated altar of Confucius, flanked by statues of cranes standing on top of tortoises – an auspicious symbol. The king and his man darins would make offerings and sacrifices here. . Tortoise Stele Mounted on giant tortoise pedestals, these stone stelae are inscribed with the names and brief personal details of scholars who passed Van Mieu’s exami nations. Dating from the 15th to the 18th centuries, only 82 out of the original 112 stelae survive today. Great Drum The counterpart of the bell tower to the west of Thai Hoc Hall is a giant drum standing to the east. These two towers appear together in traditional Sinitic architecture. The Music Room A small orchestra of traditional musicians and singers stage regular performances next to the Altar of Confucius, using traditional Vietnamese stringed instruments (see pp28–9). VISITORS’ CHECKLIST Practical Information Quoc Tu Giam St. Map 1 B4. Tel (04) 3845 2917. Open 7:30am–5:30pm Apr–Sep, 8am–5pm Oct–Mar. & 8 = 170-171_EW_VTN.indd 171 14/07/16 4:43 pm 172 VIETNAM AREA BY AREA For hotels and restaurants see pp239–40 and pp250–52 a Ho Tay Map 1 A1. 7 0 - = Tran Quoc Pagoda: Kim Ngu Island, Thanh Nien Causeway. Open sunrise–sunset daily. Quan Thanh Temple: Intersection of Thanh Nien Causeway and Quan Thanh Sts. Open sunrise–sunset daily. & To the west of Hanoi are two beautiful lakes, separated from the Red River by the great dyke to the north. The larger of the two is Ho Tay or West Lake, which is home to Hanoi’s sailing club. It is sepa ra ted from Truc Bach or White Silk Lake to the east by an artificial causeway. In times past, Ho Tay was s Kim Lien Pagoda Ho Tay, Tu Liem District. Open sunrise–sunset daily. Situated on the northern shore of Ho Tay, the very attractive Kiem Lien Pagoda is somewhat out of the way, but well deserving of a visit. Legend has it that Princess Tu Hoa, daughter of 12th-century Emperor Ly Than Tong, brought her ladies-in-waiting to the area so they could cultivate silkworms for cloth. In 1771, a pagoda was built on the foundations of her palace and named Kim Lien, which means Golden Lotus, in memory of the princess. Now entered through a triplearched gate, it comprises three pavilions, that are laid out in three lines, supposedly representing the Chinese character san or three. They each have sweeping eaves and stacked roofs. Colorful swan-necked leisure boats docked on the shores of Ho Tay associated with the Trinh lords, who built palaces and pavilions along its shores, as well as many Buddhist temples. The palaces are gone, but many temples remain, including the city’s oldest, Tran Quoc Pagoda. According to legend, it was established by the banks of the Red River during the reign of Trinh lord, Ly Nam De (r.544–8), but was moved to its current loca tion during the 17th century. Also worth a visit is Quan Thanh Temple, reputed to have been patronized by Emperor Ly Thai To, founder of the Ly Dynasty (see p44). Rebuilt in 1893, it is dedicated to Tran Vo or Guardian of the North. An image of this Taoist divin ity dominates the altar. Today, the area around Ho Tay is becoming increasingly upscale, with lots of luxury hotels along its shore. It is also home to several high-end restaurants and bars. The brick-built exterior of Tran Quoc Pagoda p Hanoi Citadel 9 Hoang Dieu, Ba Dinh District. Map 1 C2. Open 8–11:30am, 1:30– 5pm Tue–Sun. & For centuries, Hanoi Citadel was only accessible to the country’s rulers, but in 2010, it was recognized by UNESCO as a World Heritage Site and is now open to the public. Unfortunately, much of the site was destroyed by the French in the late 19th century, however, the surviving buildings are worth a visit. At the south end of this mammoth complex, adjacent to the Military History Museum is the Cat Co, or the Flag Tower. North of here, the Doan Mon Gate is probably the most impressive structure of the Citadel still remaining. The imposing walls containing five archways and supporting a double-roofed pavilion can be seen once the main entrance to the forbidden realm is entered. Beyond the gate are the excavations showing a sophisticated waterway, probably once used for irrigation. Nothing remains of the Kinh Tien Palace, which once functioned as the imperial residence, apart from its beautifully sculpted dragon balustrades. In the heart of the complex is a squat colonial building named D67, which was a command center for northern forces during the Vietnam War. The conference table still has the reserved seats of luminaries such as General Giap (1911–2013), who was the mastermind behind many Vietnamese victories. There is also a bomb shelter deep below the ground. North of the D67 building are two more structures of interest– Hau Lau and Cua Bac, the northern gate. However, on the west side of Hoang Dieu Street is a massive archaeological dig, consisting mostly of foundations of former palaces, that gives an idea of the enormous scale of the Citadel. 172-173_EW_VTN.indd 172 14/07/16 4:43 pm HANOI 173 The prestigious Quoc Hoc School in Hue is where Ho Chi Minh studied, along with future general Vo Nguyen Giap and Pham Van Dong, the future prime minister of Vietnam. Nguyen Ai Quoc or Nguyen the Patriot is a pseudonym that Ho Chi Minh adopted during the 1920s. Greatly taken with socialist beliefs, he was a founding member of the French Communist Party in Paris, part of the Soviet Union Communist Party, and founder of the Indochinese Communist Party in China. A photograph dated 1945 shows Ho Chi Minh preparing for a military campaign against the French. Full-scale war broke out in 1946, and the Viet Minh, led by Ho Chi Minh, waged a bloody battle that would last eight long years. Camped in secret tunnels and caverns, Ho Chi Minh spent hours perfecting military strategies, which included employing underground resistance and guerilla tactics to expel the French forces, who were finally defeated in 1954. Revered and loved as the father of modern Vietnam, Ho Chi Minh is featured in the form of statues and portraits throughout the country, honoring his commitment to the unity of the nation. Kim Lien (see p155), his childhood village, is now a national shrine. Personally a gentle and unassuming man, Ho was much loved by children and adults alike. He could also speak several languages fluently, including Chinese, Russian, French, and English. The Huc or Sunbeam Bridge of Hoan Kiem Lake in Hanoi Ho Chi Minh Acclaimed as the leader and primary force behind Vietnam’s struggle for independence, Ho Chi Minh was born in 1890 at Hoang Tru village, near Vinh. After studying in Hue, Ho Chi Minh, then known as Nguyen Tat Thanh, left Vietnam in 1911 to travel the world. Influenced by socialist ideologies during his stay in Europe, he founded communist organizations in Paris, Moscow, and China. He returned to Vietnam in 1941, where he took the name Ho Chi Minh (Bringer of Enlightenment) and formed the Vietnamese Independence League, or Viet Minh. In 1955, he became president of the Democratic Republic of Vietnam, leading long and bitter wars against France and the United States. Though he died six years before reunification, Vietnam’s independence is considered his greatest achievement. 172-173_EW_VTN.indd 173 14/07/16 4:43 pm 174-175_EW_VTN.indd 174 17/07/14 3:15 PM 174-175_EW_VTN.indd 175 17/07/14 3:15 PM d Co Loa Citadel 10 miles (16 km) N of Hanoi, Dong Anh District. Open 8am–5pm daily. & = _ Co Loa Festival (Feb). The first known capital of an independent Vietnamese kingdom, this ancient fortress dates from a time when mythological history was slowly evolving into historical fact. The stories surrounding its creation and subsequent fall rest on oral tradition long since written down but impossible to verify. Believed to have been built by King An Duong Vuong (see p41) in the 3rd century BC, the citadel was invaded soon after by the Chinese. According to legend, the son of the Chinese general tricked An Duong’s daughter, My Chau, into giving him her father’s magic crossbow, which was used by the Chinese to defeat the king. Fact or fic tion, the remains of this great citadel and the huge quantity of bronze arrowheads found buried around the fortress indicate that fierce battles once took place here. At present, only vestiges of the citadel remain. In the center of the complex are temples dedicated to An Duong and My Chau. Both these structures are well preserved. However, it seems evident that they were built long after the citadel’s destruction in 208 BC. Stylized stone lions sitting guard outside distinguish the temple dedicated to King An Duong. A major festival takes place at the temple each year in honor of the legendary king, and a statue of him is carried in a palanquin from the temple to the local dinh or communal house. In efforts to promote both tourism and a revival of Mural depicting people from the Dong Son culture, Co Loa Citadel traditional culture, the festivities include elaborate games of human chess, cockfighting, singing, and dancing. On the final day, An Duong is carried in state from the dinh back to his temple. The Hanoi Architecture and Planning Department is currently working on restoring the vast area originally cov ered by the citadel. f Museum of Ethnology 60 Nguyen Van Huyen St, Cau Giay District. Tel (04) 3756 2193. Open 8:30am–5:30pm Tue–Sun. & 8 - = ∑ vme.org.vn Located west of the city center, the Bao Tang Dan Toc Hoc or the Museum of Ethnology offers informative and welldocumented displays on the country’s many ethnic groups (see pp24–5). These range from the dominant Kinh to the smallest minorities in the highlands of the north and center. Exhibits in the main building include elaborate and colorful hilltribe costumes, weaving designs, musical instruments, fishing implements, work tools, and other functional objects. The displays continue on to the extensive grounds outside, with fascinating examples of minority housing from the Central Highlands, such as communal houses, steep pitched roofs, and elaborately carved tombs. A highlight here is the recreation of a Black Thai house. The museum also serves as a research center for Vietnam’s 54 recognized ethnic groups. Reconstruction of a Central Highland ethnic home, Museum of Ethnology For hotels and restaurants see pp239–40 and pp250–52 176 VIETNAM AREA BY AREA 176-177_EW_VTN.indd 176 14/07/16 4:43 pm g Thay Pagoda 20 miles (32 km) W of Hanoi, Ha Tay Province. Open sunrise–sunset daily. & _ Thay Pagoda Festival (early Apr). Dedicated to the Thich Ca or the Sakyamuni Buddha, Chua Thay or Master’s Pagoda is named for Tu Dao Hanh – a 12th-century monk and master water puppeteer. The temple is mainly renowned for being home to more than 100 religious statues, including the two largest in Vietnam. Made of clay and papier-mâché, these giants weigh more than 2,200 lb (1,000 kg) each. Inside, to the left of the main altar stands a statue of the master, and to the right is a statue of Emperor Ly Nhan Tong (r.1072–1127), believed to be a reincarnation of Tu Dao Hanh, and under whose reign this attractive house of worship was established. The pagoda also hosts a variety of water puppet shows (see p163) during its muchanticipated annual festival. h Tay Phuong Pagoda 24 miles (38 km) W of Hanoi, Ha Tay Province. Open sunrise– sunset daily. & This small temple is perched on top of a hill said to resemble a buffalo, and lies a short distance west of Thay Pagoda, hence its name, which means Western Pagoda. Originally j Hung Kings’ Temples 62 miles (100 km) NW of Hanoi, Phong Chau District, Phu Tho Province. Museum Tel (021) 386 0026. Open 8–11:30am, 1–4pm daily. ^ in museum. - = _ Hung Kings’ Temple Festival (Apr). Believed by the Vietnamese to be the very earliest relics of their civilization, the temples of the Hung kings are located on Mount Nghia Linh. Built by rulers Massive clay image of a warrior behind the altar at Thay Pagoda One of the pleasing Hung kings’ temples, set amid lush greenery Jackfruit-wood statue, Tay Phuong Pagoda of the Vang Lang Kingdom, between the 7th and 3rd centuries BC, they are objects of great veneration. Flights of stone stairs climb sharply upwards through the trees to the lowest temple, Den Ha, the middle temple, Den Hung, and ultimately the superior temple near the top of the hill, Den Thuong. The entire area is filled with a plethora of pagodas, lotus ponds, and small shrines. The most important of these is Lang Hung – a tiny shrine, with candle and incense holders, located a few meters lower down the slope from Den Thuong. This is, supposedly, the main tomb of the Hung kings, though it is evident that it has undergone some extensive reconstructions. The views from Mount Nghia Linh’s summit sweep across the surrounding rural Phu Tho land scape, and are absolutely spectacular. At the foot of the mountain there is a small Museum. A varied selection of displays such as frog drums, pottery, arrow heads, and other historic relics are shown here. The annual Hung Kings Festival in April is now a national holiday and attracts huge crowds. dating from the 8th century, it is best known for its impressive collection of more than 70 finely carved, jackfruit-wood statues representing incarnations of the Buddha, Confucian disciples, and various arhats (Buddhist saints) in meditative poses. The Tay Phuong Pagoda is also distinguished by particularly fine wood carvings of flowers and mythical animals, such as the phoenix and dragons. Other striking features of the temple include a large bell cast in 1796, and the doubletiered roof, which has elegant, upwardsweeping eaves, beautifully decorated with symbols of the sun, moon, and stars. HANOI 177 176-177_EW_VTN.indd 177 14/07/16 4:43 pm Eyewitness Travel Streetfinder intro (Source v1) Date 7th August 2012 Size 125mm x 217mm LAYERS PRINTED: “UK” LAYER The stately city of Hanoi is divided into four principal districts. Named after the lovely lake at the center of town, Hoan Kiem District includes the bustling alleys of the Old Quarter, while the city’s former French Quarter is in Hai Ba Trung district. The other two districts are Ba Dinh, and Dong Da. Note that the street names can be preceded by the word pho, which is a central city street; duong, which is a more common road; or dai lo, which is a large avenue or boulevard. Some common words used in street names have been abbreviated on the Street Finder. For example, Nguyen is Ng and Hang is H. The symbols used for sights and other features on the Street Finder are listed in the key below. HANOI STREET FINDER Scale of Maps 1-2 Key to Street Finder Major sight Other sight Other building Train station Long-distance bus station Riverboat pier Hospital Pagoda/temple Church 178 HANOI STREET FINDER 0 kilometers 0 miles 1 1 0 meters 0 yards 250 250 PHAN DINH PHUNG HOANG HOA THAM TRAN KHANH TRAN QUANG KHAI TRAN NHAT DUAT YEN PHU TRANG TI E N TRANG THI NGUYEN THAI HOC TON DUC THANG PRO TRAN KHAT CHAN DAI CO VIET BA TRIEU BA TRIEU LO DUC HUNG VUONG HOANG DIEU LE DUAN LE DUAN TRAN HUNG DAO TRAN NHAN TONG NGUYEN DU BACH MAI HANG GAI HANG BONG CAU GO NGUYEN TRI HUONG Truc Bach Lake Thien Quang Lake Hoan Kiem Lake Bay Mau Lake 178-179_EW_VTN.indd 178 27/08/2015 17:27 Street Finder Index A Au Trieu 2 D3 B Ba H Thanh Quan 1 B2 Ba Trieu 2 E5 Bac Son 1 C2 Bach Dang 2 F3 Bat Dan 2 D3 Bat Su 2 D2 Bich Cau 1 B4 C Cam Chi 2 D3 Cao Ba Quat 1 C3 Cao Thang 2 E2 Cat Linh 1 A3 Cau Dong 2 E2 Cau Go 2 E3 Cha Ca 2 E2 Chau Long 1 C1 Cho Kham Thien 1 C5 Chu Van An 1 B3 Chua Mot Cot 1 B2 Chuong Duong 2 F3 Cong Trang 1 C5 Cua Bac 1 C1 Cua Dong 2 D2 Cua Nam 1 C4 D
Da Tuong 2 D4 Dang Dung 1 C1 Dang Tat 1 C1 Dang Thai Than 2 F4 Dang Tran Con 1 B4 Dao Duy Tu 2 E2 Dien Bien Phu 1 C3 Dinh Le 2 E4 Dinh Liet 2 E3 Dinh Tien Hoang 2 E4 Doan Thi Diem 1 B4 Doc Lap 1 B2 Doi Can 1 A2 Dong Cac 1 A5 Dong Xuan 2 E2 G Gam Cau 2 D2 Gia Ngu 2 E3 Giac 1 C4 Giang Van Minh 1 A3 Giang Vo 1 A3 H Ha Hoi 2 D5 Ha Trung 2 D3 Hai Ba Trung 2 D4 Ham Long 2 E5 Ham Tu Quan 2 F3 Han Thyen 2 F5 Hang Bac 2 E3 Hang Bai 2 E5 Hang Be 2 E3 Hang Bo 2 D3 Hang Bong 2 D3 Hang Bun 2 D1 Hang Buom 2 E2 Hang Can 2 E2 Hang Chao 1 B3 Hang Chieu 2 E2 Hang Chinh 2 E2 Hang Chuoi 2 F5 Hang Cot 2 D2 Hang Da 2 D3 Hang Dao 2 E3 Hang Dau 2 E3 Hang Dieu 2 D3 Hang Dong 2 D2 Hang Duong 2 E2 Hang Ga 2 D2 Hang Gai 2 D3 Hang Giay 2 E2 Hang Hanh 2 E3 Hang Hom 2 D3 Hang Khoai 2 E2 Hang Luoc 2 D2 Hang Ma 2 D2 Hang Manh 2 D3 Hang Ngang 2 E3 Hang Non 2 D3 Hang Phuc 2 D1 Hang Quat 2 E3 Hang Than 2 D1 Hang Thiec 2 D3 Hang Thung 2 F3 Hang Tre 2 F3 Hang Trong 2 E3 Hang Vai 2 D2 Hang Voi 2 F3 Ho Giam 1 B4 Ho Xuan Huong 2 D5 Hoa Lo 2 D4 Hoang Dieu 1 C2 Hoang Hoa Tham 1 A1 Hoang Van Thu 1 C2 Hoe Nhai 2 D1 Hoi Vu 2 D3 Hung Vuong 1 B2 K Kham Thien 1 B5 Khay Trang Tien 2 E4 Kim Ma 1 A3 L La Thanh 1 A5 Lan Ong 2 D2 Le Duan 1 C4 Le Hong Phong 1 B3 Le Lai 2 E4 Le Phung Hieu 2 F4 Le Thach 2 F4 Le Thai To 2 E3 Le Thanh Tong 2 F5 Le Truc 1 B3 Le Van Huu 2 E5 Lien Tri 2D5 Lo Duc 2 F5 Lo Ren Hang 2 D2 Lo Su 2 F3 Luong Ngoc Quyen 2 E2 Luong Van Can 2 E3 Ly Nam De 2 D2 Ly Quoc Su 2 E3 Ly Thai To 2 F4 Ly Thuong Kiet 2 E4 Ly Van Phuc 1 B3 N N C Nghia 2 E5 Nam Ngu 1 C4 Nghia Dung 2 E1 Ngo 1 1 A3 Ngo 15 1 A2 Ngo 55 1 A2 Ngo 82 1 A3 Ngo 93 1 A2 Ngo Bai 1 A4 Ngo Chua Nam Dong 1 A5 Ngo Hang Bot 1 B3 Ngo Hao Nam 1 A4 Ngo Huy Van 1 B5 Ngo Lenh Cu 1 B5 Ngo Linh Quang 1 C4 Ngo Luong Su 1 C4 Ngo Ngoc Ha 1 A2 Ngo Quan Tho 1 A5 Ngo Quyen 2 E5 Ngo Si Lien 1 C4 Ngo Tat To 1 B4 Ngo Thinih Hao 1 A4 Ngo Tho Quan 1 B5 Ngo Thong Phong 1 B4 Ngo Trai Toc 1 A5 Ngo Tram 2 D3 Ngo Trung Truc 2 D1 Ngo Van Chuong 1 B5 Ngo Van Hoang 1 B4 Ngo Van So 2 E5 Ngoc Ha 1 A2 Nguyen Bieu 1 C1 Nguyen Canh Chan 1 C2 Nguyen Du 2 D5 Nguyen Gia Thieu 2 D5 Nguyen Huu Huan 2 E2 Nguyen Huyen 2 D3 Nguyen Khac Can 2 F4 Nguyen Khac Hieu 1 C1 Nguyen Khac Nhu 2 D1 Nguyen Khiet 2 E2 Nguyen Khuyen 1 C4 Nguyen Nhu Do 1 C4 Nguyen Sieu 2 E2 Nguyen Thai Hoc 1 B3 Nguyen Thien Thuat 2 E2 Nguyen Thuong Hien 1 C5 Nguyen Tri Phuong 1 C2 Nguyen Truong To 2 D1 Nguyen Van To 2 D3 Nha Chung 2 E4 Nha Dau 1 C5 Nha Tho 2 E3 O Ong Ich Khiem 1 B2 P Pham Hong Thai 2 D1 Pham Ngu Lao 2 F4 Phan Boi Chau 2 D4 Phan Chu Trinh 2 F5 Phan Dinh Phung 1 C1 Phan Huy Chu 2 F5 Phan Huy Ich 2 D1 Phan Phu Tien 1 B3 Phan Van Tri 1 B4 Phu Doan 2 D3 Phuc Tan 2 E2 Phung Hung 2 D2 Q Quan Su 2 D4 Quan Thanh 1 C1 Quang Trung 2 D5 Quoc Tu Giam 1 B4 S Son Tay 1 A3 T Ta Hien 2 E2 Tang Bat Ho 2 F5 Thanh Bao 1 A3 Thanh Ha 2 E2 Thanh Nien 1 B1 Thanh Thanh 2 D3 Thanh Yen 2 E2 Thien Hung 1 C5 Thien Quang 2 D5 Tho Nhuom 2 D4 Thuoc Bac 2 D2 Thuy Khue 1 B1 Ton Duc Thang 1 B5 Ton That Thiep 1 C3 Tong Dan 2 F4 Tong Duy Tan 2 D3 Tran Binh Trong 2 D5 Tran Hung Dao 2 D4 Tran Nguyen Ha 2 F3 Tran Nhan Tong 2 D5 Tran Nhat Duat 2 E2 Tran Phu 1 B3 Tran Quang Khai 2 F3 Tran Quoc Toan 2 D5 Tran Quy Cap 1 C4 Tran Thanh Tong 2 F5 Tran Xuan Soan 2 E5 Trang Thi 2 D4 Trieu Quoc Dat 2 D4 Trinh Hoai Duc 1 B3 Truc Bach 1 C1 Truong Han Sieu 2 E5 Tuc Mac 1 C4 V Van Kiep 2 D4 Van Mieu 1 B4 Vong Duc 2 E5 Vu Thach 1 A4 Y Yen Ninh 2 D1 Yen Phu 2 D1 Yen Thai 2 D3 Yen The 1 C4 Yet Kieu 2 D5 HANOI street f INder 179 178-179_EW_VTN.indd 179 17/07/14 3:15 PM DONG DA DISTRICT BA DINH DISTRICT HOAN KIEM DISTRICT FRENCH QUARTER OLD QUARTER Thien Quang Lake Ho Tay Huy Van Lake Van Chuong Lake Giam Lake Hoan Kiem Lake Truc Bach Lake R e d R i v e r BOTANICAL GARDEN Geological Museum Hoe Nhai Pagoda One Pillar Pagoda Dien Huu Pagoda Ngoc Ha Temple Dong Xuan Market Bach Ma Temple Ho Chi Minh Museum Ho Chi Minh’s Stilt House Presidential Palace Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum Kim Son Pagoda Cheo Opera Theater Quan Thanh Temple Hanoi Citadel Hanoi Citadel Cua Nam Market Vietnam Military History Museum Flag Tower Ba Dinh Hall Fine Arts Museum Hanoi Stadium Hang Bot Church Ambassador’s Pagoda Phung Khanh Pagoda Viet Duc Hospital Da Lieu Hospital St Joseph’s Cathedral Museum of Vietnamese History Opera House Main Post Office Sofitel Legend Metropole Hotel Thang Long Water Puppet Theatre Den Ngoc Son Embassy of Thailand Indian Embassy Cambodian Embassy Italian Embassy Embassy of Laos French Embassy Embassy of the Philippines UK Embassy Canadian Embassy Hoa Lo Prison Indonesian Embassy Embassy of Singapore German Embassy Chinese Embassy Embassy of Brazil Temple of Literature Long Bien Bus Station Long Bien Station Kim Ma Bus Station Kim Lien Bus Station Hanoi Railway Station Phuc Tan Port Long Bien Bridge L E T H A I T O C AO T H A N G T H A N H HA CAU DONG
LO REN HANG N G U Y E N S I E U
L A N O N G HANG BUOM T H A N H T H A N H HA TRUNG D AO D U Y T U N G O T R A M HANG MANH H O I V U L E L A I L E T H A C H D I N H L E NGUYEN KHAC CAN A U T R I E U NHA THO HOA LO VAN KIEP VONG DUC
Q U A N G T H I E N HO XUAN HUONG NGO VAN SO HA HOI NGUYEN GIA THIEU LIEN TRI P H U N G H U N G P H U N G H U N G H O A N G V A N T H U L E H O N G P H O N G N G H I A D U N G T R U C B A C H T H A N H N I E N N G . C A N H C H A N G I A N G U N G O C H U A N A M D O N G N G U Y E N K H A C N H U HIEU NG. KHAC D U N G N G U Y E N B I E U N G U Y E N T R U O N G T O HOE NHAI H O E N H A I T H A N H A N G PHAN HUY ICH
HANG PHUC D A N G C H A U L O N G P H A M H O N G T H A I Y E N N I N H N G O 5 5 N G O 1 5 N G O N G O C H A NGO 1 NGO TRAI TOC N G O Q U A N T H O DANG TRAN CON P H A N P H U T I E N LY V A N P H U C N HAN GO BOTG H A N G C H A O V A N M I E U C AO B A Q U AT TON THAT THIEP G I A C N G UY E N K H U Y E N NGO TAT TO HO G AI M N G O T H O N G P H O NG N G O V A N H O A N G NGO HUY VAN NGO LENH CU NGO LINH QUA N G CONG TRANG NG. HUYEN CAM CHI BA H. THANH QUAN H A N G V A I TRAN THANH TONG MAI XUAN THUONG VU THACH M O T C O T T RI N H HOA I D U C PHAN VAN TRI B I C H C A U T H A N H L E T R U S O C N T A Y D O N G C A C D A N G TAT C U A D O N G T H A N H Y E N N G U Y E N K H I E T CHUONG DUONG L E L A I NGO 93 CHUA N G O H A O N A M N G O B A I TRAN Q U O C T U G I A M NG. NHU DO YEN THE NGO SI LIEN HANG CHUOI TANG B AT H O DA TUONG P H A M N G U L A O DANG THAI THAN T O N G D A N Y E T K I E U TRUONG HAN SIEU NAM NGU C U A N A M HANG HANH N H A C H U N G LY Q U O C S U T R A N B I N H T R O N G NGUYEN VAN TO T H A Y E NI HANG MA TA HIEN D I N H L I E T H A N G V O I H A N G T R E H A N G K H O A I H A N G D I E U H A N G G A H A N G C O T HANG CHIEU HANG DONG B AT S U DOAN THI DIEM QU Y C A P D O I C A N D O I C A N B AO N G O C H A B A C S O N Q U A N S U Q U A N S U H A N G D A CHU VAN AN K H U C H AO T R A N Q U O C T O A N HANG DAO H A N G N G A N G HANG DUONG DONG XUAN HANG GIAY DO N G C U A LE PHUNG HIEU
P H U D O A N LUONG NGOC QUYEN HAN G GIA Y N G U Y E N THI E N T H U AT P H A N B O I C H A U THI E N HU N G NGO L NI H Q U ANG T H O N H U O M T H O N H U O M H A N G G A I HANG GAI H A N G B O N G C A U G O H. THUNG D I E N B I E N P H U D I E N B I E N P H U D O C L A P LY T H A I T O L Y T H A I T O N G U Y E N H U U H U A N L E T H A N H T O N G N GO THINH HAO N GO V A N C HUON G N G O V A N C H U O N G NG O LU O N G S U H A N G B A I H A N G B A I D I N H T I E N H O A N G H A N G D A U H A N G B E T R A N N G U Y E N H A T R A N H U N G D A O T R A N H U N G T D A O UC MAC N H A D A U L Y N A M D E L Y N A M D E T R A N P H U T R A N P H U C U A B A C CUA BAC N G U Y E N T R I P H U O N G N G U Y E N T R I P H U O N G Q U A N T H A N H QU A N T H A N H T H U Y K H U E T H U Y K H U E P H U C T A N HAI BA TRUNG H A I B A T R U N G H A I B A T R U N G L Y T H U O N G K I E T L Y T H U O N G K I E T N G O Q U Y E N N G O Q U Y E N H A N G B A C H A N G B O D A N Q U A N G T R U N G Q U A N G T R U N G H A M L O N G B AT
TRAN XUAN SOAN T R A N N H A N T O N G P H U C T A N B A C H D A N G CHO KHA M T H IE N NGO THO QUAN GIANG VAN M I NH H A N G B U N P H A N H U Y C H U H A N G L U O C C H A C A H . C A N LUONG VAN CAN G A M C A U
H A N G N O N HANG QUAT H A N G T R O N G TONG D UY TAN L O S U Q U A N H A M T U C A T L I N H G I A N G VO B A T R I E U LO DUC PH AN CHU TRI NH L A T H A N H LA THANH H A N T H Y E N L E V A N H U U N G U Y E N D U K H A M T H I E N THUONG HIEN NG. H U N G V U O N G H U N G V U O N G H O A N G D I E U C H U O N G D U O N G B R I D G E L E D U A N L E D U A N P H A N D I N H P H U N G H A N G H D A U O A NG H O A T H A M T R A N Q U A N G K H A I T R A N N H AT D U AT Y E N P H U H A N G K H AY T R A N G T I E N T R A N G T H I N G U Y E N T H A I H O C KIM M A T O N D U C T H A N G DONG DA DISTRICT BA DINH DISTRICT HOAN KIEM DISTRICT FRENCH QUARTER OLD QUARTER Thien Quang Lake Ho Tay Huy Van Lake Van Chuong Lake Giam Lake Hoan Kiem Lake Truc Bach Lake R e d R i v e r BOTANICAL GARDEN Geological Museum Hoe Nhai Pagoda One Pillar Pagoda Dien Huu Pagoda Ngoc Ha Temple Dong Xuan Market Bach Ma Temple Ho Chi Minh Museum Ho Chi Minh’s Stilt House Presidential Palace Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum Kim Son Pagoda Cheo Opera Theater Quan Thanh Temple Hanoi Citadel Hanoi Citadel Cua Nam Market Vietnam Military History Museum Flag Tower Ba Dinh Hall Fine Arts Museum Hanoi Stadium Hang Bot Church Ambassador’s Pagoda Phung Khanh Pagoda Viet Duc Hospital Da Lieu Hospital St Joseph’s Cathedral Museum of Vietnamese History Opera House Main Post Office Sofitel Legend Metropole Hotel Thang Long Water Puppet Theatre Den Ngoc Son Embassy of Thailand Indian Embassy Cambodian Embassy Italian Embassy Embassy of Laos French Embassy Embassy of the Philippines UK Embassy Canadian Embassy Hoa Lo Prison Indonesian Embassy Embassy of Singapore German Embassy Chinese Embassy Embassy of Brazil Temple of Literature Long Bien Bus Station Long Bien Station Kim Ma Bus Station Kim Lien Bus Station Hanoi Railway Station Phuc Tan Port Long Bien Bridge L E T H A I T O C AO T H A N G T H A N H HA CAU DONG
LO REN HANG N G U Y E N S I E U
L A N O N G HANG BUOM T H A N H T H A N H HA TRUNG D AO D U Y T U N G O T R A M HANG MANH H O I V U L E L A I L E T H A C H D I N H L E NGUYEN KHAC CAN A U T R I E U NHA THO HOA LO VAN KIEP VONG DUC
Q U A N G T H I E N HO XUAN HUONG NGO VAN SO HA HOI NGUYEN GIA THIEU LIEN TRI P H U N G H U N G P H U N G H U N G H O A N G V A N T H U L E H O N G P H O N G N G H I A D U N G T R U C B A C H T H A N H N I E N N G . C A N H C H A N G I A N G U N G O C H U A N A M D O N G N G U Y E N K H A C N H U HIEU NG. KHAC D U N G N G U Y E N B I E U N G U Y E N T R U O N G T O HOE NHAI H O E N H A I T H A N H A N G PHAN HUY ICH
HANG PHUC D A N G C H A U L O N G P H A M H O N G T H A I Y E N N I N H N G O 5 5 N G O 1 5 N G O N G O C H A NGO 1 NGO TRAI TOC N G O Q U A N T H O DANG TRAN CON P H A N P H U T I E N LY V A N P H U C N HAN GO BOTG H A N G C H A O V A N M I E U C AO B A Q U AT TON THAT THIEP G I A C N G UY E N K H U Y E N NGO TAT TO HO G AI M N G O T H O N G P H O NG N G O V A N H O A N G NGO HUY VAN NGO LENH CU NGO LINH QUA N G CONG TRANG NG. HUYEN CAM CHI BA H. THANH QUAN H A N G V A I TRAN THANH TONG MAI XUAN THUONG VU THACH M O T C O T T RI N H HOA I D U C PHAN VAN TRI B I C H C A U T H A N H L E T R U S O C N T A Y D O N G C A C D A N G TAT C U A D O N G T H A N H Y E N N G U Y E N K H I E T CHUONG DUONG L E L A I NGO 93 CHUA N G O H A O N A M N G O B A I TRAN Q U O C T U G I A M NG. NHU DO YEN THE NGO SI LIEN HANG CHUOI TANG B AT H O DA TUONG P H A M N G U L A O DANG THAI THAN T O N G D A N Y E T K I E U TRUONG HAN SIEU NAM NGU C U A N A M HANG HANH N H A C H U N G LY Q U O C S U T R A N B I N H T R O N G NGUYEN VAN TO T H A Y E NI HANG MA TA HIEN D I N H L I E T H A N G V O I H A N G T R E H A N G K H O A I H A N G D I E U H A N G G A H A N G C O T HANG CHIEU HANG DONG B AT S U DOAN THI DIEM QU Y C A P D O I C A N D O I C A N B AO N G O C H A B A C S O N Q U A N S U Q U A N S U H A N G D A CHU VAN AN K H U C H AO T R A N Q U O C T O A N HANG DAO H A N G N G A N G HANG DUONG DONG XUAN HANG GIAY DO N G C U A LE PHUNG HIEU
P H U D O A N LUONG NGOC QUYEN HAN G GIA Y N G U Y E N THI E N T H U AT P H A N B O I C H A U THI E N HU N G NGO L NI H Q U ANG T H O N H U O M T H O N H U O M H A N G G A I HANG GAI H A N G B O N G C A U G O H. THUNG D I E N B I E N P H U D I E N B I E N P H U D O C L A P LY T H A I T O L Y T H A I T O N G U Y E N H U U H U A N L E T H A N H T O N G N GO THINH HAO N GO V A N C HUON G N G O V A N C H U O N G NG O LU O N G S U H A N G B A I H A N G B A I D I N H T I E N H O A N G H A N G D A U H A N G B E T R A N N G U Y E N H A T R A N H U N G D A O T R A N H U N G T D A O UC MAC N H A D A U L Y N A M D E L Y N A M D E T R A N P H U T R A N P H U C U A B A C CUA BAC N G U Y E N T R I P H U O N G N G U Y E N T R I P H U O N G Q U A N T H A N H QU A N T H A N H T H U Y K H U E T H U Y K H U E P H U C T A N HAI BA TRUNG H A I B A T R U N G H A I B A T R U N G L Y T H U O N G K I E T L Y T H U O N G K I E T N G O Q U Y E N N G O Q U Y E N H A N G B A C H A N G B O D A N Q U A N G T R U N G Q U A N G T R U N G H A M L O N G B AT
TRAN XUAN SOAN T R A N N H A N T O N G P H U C T A N B A C H D A N G CHO KHA M T H IE N NGO THO QUAN GIANG VAN M I NH H A N G B U N P H A N H U Y C H U H A N G L U O C C H A C A H . C A N LUONG VAN CAN G A M C A U
H A N G N O N HANG QUAT H A N G T R O N G TONG D UY TAN L O S U Q U A N H A M T U C A T L I N H G I A N G VO B A T R I E U LO DUC PH AN CHU TRI NH L A T H A N H LA THANH H A N T H Y E N L E V A N H U U N G U Y E N D U K H A M T H I E N THUONG HIEN NG. H U N G V U O N G H U N G V U O N G H O A N G D I E U C H U O N G D U O N G B R I D G E L E D U A N L E D U A N P H A N D I N H P H U N G H A N G H D A U O A NG H O A T H A M T R A N Q U A N G K H A I T R A N N H AT D U AT Y E N P H U H A N G K H AY T R A N G T I E N T R A N G T H I N G U Y E N T H A I H O C KIM M A T O N D U C T H A N G 180-181_EW_VTN.indd 180 14/07/16 4:37 pm DONG DA DISTRICT BA DINH DISTRICT HOAN KIEM DISTRICT FRENCH QUARTER OLD QUARTER Thien Quang Lake Ho Tay Huy Van Lake Van Chuong Lake Giam Lake Hoan Kiem Lake Truc Bach Lake R e d R i v e r BOTANICAL GARDEN Geological Museum Hoe Nhai Pagoda One Pillar Pagoda Dien Huu Pagoda Ngoc Ha Temple Dong Xuan Market Bach Ma Temple Ho Chi Minh Museum Ho Chi Minh’s Stilt House Presidential Palace Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum Kim Son Pagoda Cheo Opera Theater Quan Thanh Temple Hanoi Citadel Hanoi Citadel Cua Nam Market Vietnam Military History Museum Flag Tower Ba Dinh Hall Fine Arts Museum Hanoi Stadium Hang Bot Church Ambassador’s Pagoda Phung Khanh Pagoda Viet Duc Hospital Da Lieu Hospital St Joseph’s Cathedral Museum of Vietnamese History Opera House Main Post Office Sofitel Legend Metropole Hotel Thang Long Water Puppet Theatre Den Ngoc Son Embassy of Thailand Indian Embassy Cambodian Embassy Italian Embassy Embassy of Laos French Embassy Embassy of the Philippines UK Embassy Canadian Embassy Hoa Lo Prison Indonesian Embassy Embassy of Singapore German Embassy Chinese Embassy Embassy of Brazil Temple of Literature Long Bien Bus Station Long Bien Station Kim Ma Bus Station Kim Lien Bus Station Hanoi Railway Station Phuc Tan Port Long Bien Bridge L E T H A I T O C AO T H A N G T H A N H HA CAU DONG
LO REN HANG N G U Y E N S I E U
L A N O N G HANG BUOM T H A N H T H A N H HA TRUNG D AO D U Y T U N G O T R A M HANG MANH H O I V U L E L A I L E T H A C H D I N H L E NGUYEN KHAC CAN A U T R I E U NHA THO HOA LO VAN KIEP VONG DUC
Q U A N G T H I E N HO XUAN HUONG NGO VAN SO HA HOI NGUYEN GIA THIEU LIEN TRI P H U N G H U N G P H U N G H U N G H O A N G V A N T H U L E H O N G P H O N G N G H I A D U N G T R U C B A C H T H A N H N I E N N G . C A N H C H A N G I A N G U N G O C H U A N A M D O N G N G U Y E N K H A C N H U HIEU NG. KHAC D U N G N G U Y E N B I E U N G U Y E N T R U O N G T O HOE NHAI H O E N H A I T H A N H A N G PHAN HUY ICH
HANG PHUC D A N G C H A U L O N G P H A M H O N G T H A I Y E N N I N H N G O 5 5 N G O 1 5 N G O N G O C H A NGO 1 NGO TRAI TOC N G O Q U A N T H O DANG TRAN CON P H A N P H U T I E N LY V A N P H U C N HAN GO BOTG H A N G C H A O V A N M I E U C AO B A Q U AT TON THAT THIEP G I A C N G UY E N K H U Y E N NGO TAT TO HO G AI M N G O T H O N G P H O NG N G O V A N H O A N G NGO HUY VAN NGO LENH CU NGO LINH QUA N G CONG TRANG NG. HUYEN CAM CHI BA H. THANH QUAN H A N G V A I TRAN THANH TONG MAI XUAN THUONG VU THACH M O T C O T T RI N H HOA I D U C PHAN VAN TRI B I C H C A U T H A N H L E T R U S O C N T A Y D O N G C A C D A N G TAT C U A D O N G T H A N H Y E N N G U Y E N K H I E T CHUONG DUONG L E L A I NGO 93 CHUA N G O H A O N A M N G O B A I TRAN Q U O C T U G I A M NG. NHU DO YEN THE NGO SI LIEN HANG CHUOI TANG B AT H O DA TUONG P H A M N G U L A O DANG THAI THAN T O N G D A N Y E T K I E U TRUONG HAN SIEU NAM NGU C U A N A M HANG HANH N H A C H U N G LY Q U O C S U T R A N B I N H T R O N G NGUYEN VAN TO T H A Y E NI HANG MA TA HIEN D I N H L I E T H A N G V O I H A N G T R E H A N G K H O A I H A N G D I E U H A N G G A H A N G C O T HANG CHIEU HANG DONG B AT S U DOAN THI DIEM QU Y C A P D O I C A N D O I C A N B AO N G O C H A B A C S O N Q U A N S U Q U A N S U H A N G D A CHU VAN AN K H U C H AO T R A N Q U O C T O A N HANG DAO H A N G N G A N G HANG DUONG DONG XUAN HANG GIAY DO N G C U A LE PHUNG HIEU
P H U D O A N LUONG NGOC QUYEN HAN G GIA Y N G U Y E N THI E N T H U AT P H A N B O I C H A U THI E N HU N G NGO L NI H Q U ANG T H O N H U O M T H O N H U O M H A N G G A I HANG GAI H A N G B O N G C A U G O H. THUNG D I E N B I E N P H U D I E N B I E N P H U D O C L A P LY T H A I T O L Y T H A I T O N G U Y E N H U U H U A N L E T H A N H T O N G N GO THINH HAO N GO V A N C HUON G N G O V A N C H U O N G NG O LU O N G S U H A N G B A I H A N G B A I D I N H T I E N H O A N G H A N G D A U H A N G B E T R A N N G U Y E N H A T R A N H U N G D A O T R A N H U N G T D A O UC MAC N H A D A U L Y N A M D E L Y N A M D E T R A N P H U T R A N P H U C U A B A C CUA BAC N G U Y E N T R I P H U O N G N G U Y E N T R I P H U O N G Q U A N T H A N H QU A N T H A N H T H U Y K H U E T H U Y K H U E P H U C T A N HAI BA TRUNG H A I B A T R U N G H A I B A T R U N G L Y T H U O N G K I E T L Y T H U O N G K I E T N G O Q U Y E N N G O Q U Y E N H A N G B A C H A N G B O D A N Q U A N G T R U N G Q U A N G T R U N G H A M L O N G B AT
TRAN XUAN SOAN T R A N N H A N T O N G P H U C T A N B A C H D A N G CHO KHA M T H IE N NGO THO QUAN GIANG VAN M I NH H A N G B U N P H A N H U Y C H U H A N G L U O C C H A C A H . C A N LUONG VAN CAN G A M C A U
H A N G N O N HANG QUAT H A N G T R O N G TONG D UY TAN L O S U Q U A N H A M T U C A T L I N H G I A N G VO B A T R I E U LO DUC PH AN CHU TRI NH L A T H A N H LA THANH H A N T H Y E N L E V A N H U U N G U Y E N D U K H A M T H I E N THUONG HIEN NG. H U N G V U O N G H U N G V U O N G H O A N G D I E U C H U O N G D U O N G B R I D G E L E D U A N L E D U A N P H A N D I N H P H U N G H A N G H D A U O A NG H O A T H A M T R A N Q U A N G K H A I T R A N N H AT D U AT Y E N P H U H A N G K H AY T R A N G T I E N T R A N G T H I N G U Y E N T H A I H O C KIM M A T O N D U C T H A N G DONG DA DISTRICT BA DINH DISTRICT HOAN KIEM DISTRICT FRENCH QUARTER OLD QUARTER Thien Quang Lake Ho Tay Huy Van Lake Van Chuong Lake Giam Lake Hoan Kiem Lake Truc Bach Lake R e d R i v e r BOTANICAL GARDEN Geological Museum Hoe Nhai Pagoda One Pillar Pagoda Dien Huu Pagoda Ngoc Ha Temple Dong Xuan Market Bach Ma Temple Ho Chi Minh Museum Ho Chi Minh’s Stilt House Presidential Palace Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum Kim Son Pagoda Cheo Opera Theater Quan Thanh Temple Hanoi Citadel Hanoi Citadel Cua Nam Market Vietnam Military History Museum Flag Tower Ba Dinh Hall Fine Arts Museum Hanoi Stadium Hang Bot Church Ambassador’s Pagoda Phung Khanh Pagoda Viet Duc Hospital Da Lieu Hospital St Joseph’s Cathedral Museum of Vietnamese History Opera House Main Post Office Sofitel Legend Metropole Hotel Thang Long Water Puppet Theatre Den Ngoc Son Embassy of Thailand Indian Embassy Cambodian Embassy Italian Embassy Embassy of Laos French Embassy Embassy of the Philippines UK Embassy Canadian Embassy Hoa Lo Prison Indonesian Embassy Embassy of Singapore German Embassy Chinese Embassy Embassy of Brazil Temple of Literature Long Bien Bus Station Long Bien Station Kim Ma Bus Station Kim Lien Bus Station Hanoi Railway Station Phuc Tan Port Long Bien Bridge L E T H A I T O C AO T H A N G T H A N H HA CAU DONG
LO REN HANG N G U Y E N S I E U
L A N O N G HANG BUOM T H A N H T H A N H HA TRUNG D AO D U Y T U N G O T R A M HANG MANH H O I V U L E L A I L E T H A C H D I N H L E NGUYEN KHAC CAN A U T R I E U NHA THO HOA LO VAN KIEP VONG DUC
Q U A N G T H I E N HO XUAN HUONG NGO VAN SO HA HOI NGUYEN GIA THIEU LIEN TRI P H U N G H U N G P H U N G H U N G H O A N G V A N T H U L E H O N G P H O N G N G H I A D U N G T R U C B A C H T H A N H N I E N N G . C A N H C H A N G I A N G U N G O C H U A N A M D O N G N G U Y E N K H A C N H U HIEU NG. KHAC D U N G N G U Y E N B I E U N G U Y E N T R U O N G T O HOE NHAI H O E N H A I T H A N H A N G PHAN HUY ICH
HANG PHUC D A N G C H A U L O N G P H A M H O N G T H A I Y E N N I N H N G O 5 5 N G O 1 5 N G O N G O C H A NGO 1 NGO TRAI TOC N G O Q U A N T H O DANG TRAN CON P H A N P H U T I E N LY V A N P H U C N HAN GO BOTG H A N G C H A O V A N M I E U C AO B A Q U AT TON THAT THIEP G I A C N G UY E N K H U Y E N NGO TAT TO HO G AI M N G O T H O N G P H O NG N G O V A N H O A N G NGO HUY VAN NGO LENH CU NGO LINH QUA N G CONG TRANG NG. HUYEN CAM CHI BA H. THANH QUAN H A N G V A I TRAN THANH TONG MAI XUAN THUONG VU THACH M O T C O T T RI N H HOA I D U C PHAN VAN TRI B I C H C A U T H A N H L E T R U S O C N T A Y D O N G C A C D A N G TAT C U A D O N G T H A N H Y E N N G U Y E N K H I E T CHUONG DUONG L E L A I NGO 93 CHUA N G O H A O N A M N G O B A I TRAN Q U O C T U G I A M NG. NHU DO YEN THE NGO SI LIEN HANG CHUOI TANG B AT H O DA TUONG P H A M N G U L A O DANG THAI THAN T O N G D A N Y E T K I E U TRUONG HAN SIEU NAM NGU C U A N A M HANG HANH N H A C H U N G LY Q U O C S U T R A N B I N H T R O N G NGUYEN VAN TO T H A Y E NI HANG MA TA HIEN D I N H L I E T H A N G V O I H A N G T R E H A N G K H O A I H A N G D I E U H A N G G A H A N G C O T HANG CHIEU HANG DONG B AT S U DOAN THI DIEM QU Y C A P D O I C A N D O I C A N B AO N G O C H A B A C S O N Q U A N S U Q U A N S U H A N G D A CHU VAN AN K H U C H AO T R A N Q U O C T O A N HANG DAO H A N G N G A N G HANG DUONG DONG XUAN HANG GIAY DO N G C U A LE PHUNG HIEU
P H U D O A N LUONG NGOC QUYEN HAN G GIA Y N G U Y E N THI E N T H U AT P H A N B O I C H A U THI E N HU N G NGO L NI H Q U ANG T H O N H U O M T H O N H U O M H A N G G A I HANG GAI H A N G B O N G C A U G O H. THUNG D I E N B I E N P H U D I E N B I E N P H U D O C L A P LY T H A I T O L Y T H A I T O N G U Y E N H U U H U A N L E T H A N H T O N G N GO THINH HAO N GO V A N C HUON G N G O V A N C H U O N G NG O LU O N G S U H A N G B A I H A N G B A I D I N H T I E N H O A N G H A N G D A U H A N G B E T R A N N G U Y E N H A T R A N H U N G D A O T R A N H U N G T D A O UC MAC N H A D A U L Y N A M D E L Y N A M D E T R A N P H U T R A N P H U C U A B A C CUA BAC N G U Y E N T R I P H U O N G N G U Y E N T R I P H U O N G Q U A N T H A N H QU A N T H A N H T H U Y K H U E T H U Y K H U E P H U C T A N HAI BA TRUNG H A I B A T R U N G H A I B A T R U N G L Y T H U O N G K I E T L Y T H U O N G K I E T N G O Q U Y E N N G O Q U Y E N H A N G B A C H A N G B O D A N Q U A N G T R U N G Q U A N G T R U N G H A M L O N G B AT
TRAN XUAN SOAN T R A N N H A N T O N G P H U C T A N B A C H D A N G CHO KHA M T H IE N NGO THO QUAN GIANG VAN M I NH H A N G B U N P H A N H U Y C H U H A N G L U O C C H A C A H . C A N LUONG VAN CAN G A M C A U
H A N G N O N HANG QUAT H A N G T R O N G TONG D UY TAN L O S U Q U A N H A M T U C A T L I N H G I A N G VO B A T R I E U LO DUC PH AN CHU TRI NH L A T H A N H LA THANH H A N T H Y E N L E V A N H U U N G U Y E N D U K H A M T H I E N THUONG HIEN NG. H U N G V U O N G H U N G V U O N G H O A N G D I E U C H U O N G D U O N G B R I D G E L E D U A N L E D U A N P H A N D I N H P H U N G H A N G H D A U O A NG H O A T H A M T R A N Q U A N G K H A I T R A N N H AT D U AT Y E N P H U H A N G K H AY T R A N G T I E N T R A N G T H I N G U Y E N T H A I H O C KIM M A T O N D U C T H A N G 180-181_EW_VTN.indd 181 14/07/16 4:37 pm 182-183_EW_VTN.indd 182 14/07/16 4:43 pm Crowned by the serrated peaks of the Hoang Lien Mountains, Northern Vietnam boasts a remarkably unspoiled topography, as well as a diverse cultural landscape. The pristine forests and plunging valleys in the mountainous reaches of the north and northwest are inhabited by dozens of minorities such as the Hmong, Thai, Dao, and Nung. Their villages in Son La, Bac Ha, and Sapa are extremely picturesque, with wooden stilt houses punctuating jade-green terraced rice fields. Also in the far west, the valley of Dien Bien Phu is of great historical importance. It is famous as the site of the Viet Minh victory over the French in 1954 – a triumphant chapter in Vietnam’s history. The northeast, on the other hand, is known for the hundreds of enchanting karst outcrops that loom over the Gulf of Tonkin’s Halong and Bai Tu Long Bays. Similar formations soar above the tropical forests of Cat Ba Island, also home to golden beaches and spectacular coral reefs. In sharp contrast, the nearby port city of Haiphong, in the northernmost province of the Red River Delta, bustles with commerce and industry. Just south of here are the region’s fertile flatlands, home to the ethnic Viet or Kinh people, and marked by extensive paddy fields. Northern Vietnam also has its share of national parks such as Ba Be and Cuc Phuong, celebrated for flora and fauna endemic to the region. It also boasts the spectacular Dong Van Karst Plateau Geopark. The area is renowned for the festivals and events that enliven its religious sites, including especially the Perfume Pagoda, which is thronged by hundreds of Buddhist pilgrims for three months every year. Rural hamlet set amid the lush terraced fields surrounding Sapa NORTHERN VIETNAM Northern Vietnam is a rich repository of his tory and tradition, with many of the country’s oldest temples and fortresses. It is also blessed with great natural grandeur, ranging from the high moun tains and craggy canyons of the west, to the magical karst islands rising from Halong Bay in the east. In addition, the northwest mountains are inhabited by several diverse and culturally unique ethnic minorities. VIETNAM AREA BY AREA 183 H’Mong tribal women in traditional clothing as they shop at the Sunday market in Bac Ha town, Lao Cai 182-183_EW_VTN.indd 183 14/07/16 4:43 pm Exploring Northern Vietnam The oldest settled part of the country, Northern Vietnam is unusually rich in culture and history. The fertile plains of the Red River Delta are full of ancient temples, clan houses, and pagodas, including the very scenic and highly venerated Perfume Pagoda. Farther north, neatly cultivated fields and urban settle ments give way to the magni ficent Hoang Lien Mountains. The most popular destination here is the hill resort of Sapa, from where it is easy to visit nearby Bac Ha, and explore the surrounding remote areas that are home to several minority peoples. In the east, Halong Bay is Vietnam’s most cele brated natural beauty spot, while to the south are the dense green forests of Cuc Phuong National Park. Group of Flower Hmong girls dressed in traditional outfits, Bac Ha Market (see p201) 184 VIETNAM AREA BY AREA Sights at a Glance Towns and Cities 2 Halong City 5 Haiphong 7 Ninh Binh 0 Hoa Binh w Moc Chau e Son La r Dien Bien Phu t Sapa y Bac Ha i Cao Bang Areas of Natural Beauty 1 Halong Bay pp186–8 4 Bai Tu Long Bay q Mai Chau Valley o Dong Van Karst Plateau Geopark National Parks 9 Cuc Phuong National Park u Ba Be National Park Islands 6 Cat Ba Island Religious Sites 3 Yen Tu Pilgrimage Sites 8 Perfume Pagoda pp196–7 The crystal clear waters of Thac Bac or Silver Waterfalls near Sapa (see pp200–201) 0 kilometers 0 miles 50 50 Vinh NINH BINH HA NAM NAM DINH THAI BINH HAIPHONG HAI DUONG HUNG YEN HA TAY NGHE AN THANH HOA QUANG NINH BAC GIANG LANG SON THAI NGUYEN BAC KAN CAO BANG HA GIANG LAO CAI DIEN BIEN LAI CHAU PHU THO HANOI BAC NINH HOA BINH TUYEN QUANG YEN BAI SON LA VINH PHUC P h o u S a m S a o H o a n g L i e n S o n Yen Tu Hills Fansipan 3,143m Phu Huatt 2,452m Da Da Da Hong Ca Hi C eu a Ma Lo Nang Gam Bang Tra Ban Islands Co To Islands Sau Nam Islands Hang Pac Bo Ban Gioc Waterfalls Thac Ba Lake G u l f o f T o n k i n Mong Cai Dinh Lap Na Duong Dong Mo Chu Tien Yen Dam Ha Ba Che Hung Yen Hai Duong Phat Diem Bac Giang Thai Hoa Nhu Xuan Thanh Huong Tuong Duong Muong Xen Dien Chau Do Luong Quy Chau Tan Ky Sam Son Tinh Gia Quang Loi Ngoc Lac Tho Xuan Tran Me Tam Diep Muong Khen That Khe Ba Be Bac Kan Dong Khe Ma Phuc Nguyen Binh Ha Quang Na Phac Bao Lac Ha Giang Meo Vac Dong Van Yeh Minh Pho Rang Nam Cum Nam Ma Viet Quang Muong Lay Muong Muon Lang Son Chi Lang Van Quan Bac Son Binh Gia Du Tuyen Quang Tan Yen Yen Bai Viet Tri VinhYen Tran Phu Lien Son Ma Thuan Chau Hat Lot Yen Chau Phu Yen Con Cuong Tuan Giao Lao Cai Viet Lam Phu Tho Ha Dong Lai Chau Cam Pha Thai Binh Nam Dinh Bac Ninh HANOI Thanh Hoa Son Tay Thai Nguyen MAI CHAU VALLEY PILGRIMAGE SITES YEN TU H ALON G BAY HALONG CITY BAI TU LONG BAY HAIPHONG CAT BA ISLAND NINH BINH CUC PHUONG NATIONAL PARK HOA BINH MOC CHAU SON LA DIEN BIEN PHU BAC HA BA BE NATIONAL PARK DONG VAN KARST PLATEAU GEOPARK SAPA CAO BANG PERFUME PAGODA For hotels and restaurants see pp240–41 and pp252–3 184-185_EW_VTN.indd 184 14/07/16 4:43 pm For keys to symbols see back flap NORTHERN VIETNAM 185 Key Highway Major road Minor road Railroad International border Provincial border Getting Around Traveling around Northern Vietnam, especially in the northeast, is getting easier with the construction of new roads to Haiphong, Halong City, and the Chinese frontier. The northwest is another matter, and it is better to take the night train to Lao Cai or a flight to Dien Bien Phu rather than endure the arduous road trip. The best way to get around and take in the stunning scenery is by hiring a car and driver. Plenty of buses ply the roads too, and can be arranged by hotels and tour agen cies in Hanoi, Ninh Binh, and Sapa. Halong Bay can be explored by boat. It is possible to hire a boat for a reasonable price from the pier at Bai Chay in Halong City or in Hanoi. Hydrofoil services connect Haiphong with Cat Ba Island. Magnificent limestone karst formations at Halong Bay (see pp186–8) Vinh NINH BINH HA NAM NAM DINH THAI BINH HAIPHONG HAI DUONG HUNG YEN HA TAY NGHE AN THANH HOA QUANG NINH BAC GIANG LANG SON THAI NGUYEN BAC KAN CAO BANG HA GIANG LAO CAI DIEN BIEN LAI CHAU PHU THO HANOI BAC NINH HOA BINH TUYEN QUANG YEN BAI SON LA VINH PHUC P h o u S a m S a o H o a n g L i e n S o n Yen Tu Hills Fansipan 3,143m Phu Huatt 2,452m Da Da Da Hong Ca Hi C eu a Ma Lo Nang Gam Bang Tra Ban Islands Co To Islands Sau Nam Islands Hang Pac Bo Ban Gioc Waterfalls Thac Ba Lake G u l f o f T o n k i n Mong Cai Dinh Lap Na Duong Dong Mo Chu Tien Yen Dam Ha Ba Che Hung Yen Hai Duong Phat Diem Bac Giang Thai Hoa Nhu Xuan Thanh Huong Tuong Duong Muong Xen Dien Chau Do Luong Quy Chau Tan Ky Sam Son Tinh Gia Quang Loi Ngoc Lac Tho Xuan Tran Me Tam Diep Muong Khen That Khe Ba Be Bac Kan Dong Khe Ma Phuc Nguyen Binh Ha Quang Na Phac Bao Lac Ha Giang Meo Vac Dong Van Yeh Minh Pho Rang Nam Cum Nam Ma Viet Quang Muong Lay Muong Muon Lang Son Chi Lang Van Quan Bac Son Binh Gia Du Tuyen Quang Tan Yen Yen Bai Viet Tri VinhYen Tran Phu Lien Son Ma Thuan Chau Hat Lot Yen Chau Phu Yen Con Cuong Tuan Giao Lao Cai Viet Lam Phu Tho Ha Dong Lai Chau Cam Pha Thai Binh Nam Dinh Bac Ninh HANOI Thanh Hoa Son Tay Thai Nguyen MAI CHAU VALLEY PILGRIMAGE SITES YEN TU H ALON G BAY HALONG CITY BAI TU LONG BAY HAIPHONG CAT BA ISLAND NINH BINH CUC PHUONG NATIONAL PARK HOA BINH MOC CHAU SON LA DIEN BIEN PHU BAC HA BA BE NATIONAL PARK DONG VAN KARST PLATEAU GEOPARK SAPA CAO BANG PERFUME PAGODA 184-185_EW_VTN.indd 185 14/07/16 4:43 pm For hotels and restaurants see pp240–41 and pp252–3 1 Halong Bay Designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site, the magnificent Halong Bay is spread across a 580 sq mile (1,500 sq km) area, with more than 2,000 pinnacle-shaped lime stone and dolomite outcrops scattered across it. According to legend, the bay was formed when a gigantic dragon – ha long means descend ing dragon – plunged into the Gulf of Tonkin, and creat ed the myriad islets by lashing its tail. Geolo gists have explained that the karst topo gra phy is the prod uct of selective erosion over the millennia. The result is a labyrinthine seascape of bizarrely shaped outcrops, iso lated caves, and sandy coves (see p188). Formation of Karst Across much of the Gulf of Tonkin, both offshore in Halong Bay and on land at Tam Coc, weathered limestone pinnacles rise almost vertically from the surrounding plain, creating truly breathtaking scenery. These karst outcrops are made of sediment that settled on the seafloor in prehistoric times, which subsequently rose to the surface through geological upheaval and erosion. On exposure to warm, acidic rainfall, these striking alkaline limestone formations are worn into strange, almost spectacular shapes providing a remarkable sight. Limestone rock eroded due to acidic action . Hang Dau Go Named Grotte des Merveilles or Cave of Marvels by the French in the 19th century, Hang Dau Go is full of strangely formed stalactites and sta lagmites, enchantingly lit with green and blue colored floodlights. 186 VIETNAM AREA BY AREA Locator Map Area illustrated World Heritage Site area Dau Go Halong City Bai Chay Cat Ba Tuan Chan KEY 1 Dao Tuan Chau, a large island to the southwest of Bai Chay, is the starting point for many tours of the bay and also boasts a sprawling recreation complex. 2 Hang Thien Cung, or Celestial Palace Grotto features sparkling stalactites and stalagmites. Like Hang Dau Go, it is softly illuminated with colored lights. 3 Ferries at Halong City, constantly shuttle back and forth from Bai Chay in the west and Hong Gai in the east to the islands. 4 Dong Tam Cung which was discovered only in the mid-1990s, is one of the most impressive caves in the bay. 5 Hang Trong, or Drum Cave is filled with stalactites and stalagmites that produce a sound like distant drumming when wind blows through the cave. 6 Dao Titop is home to a tiny, isolated beach. It is also possible to hike to the top of the islet. Halong Ba y Cat Ba Island Halong City 186-187_EW_VTN.indd 186 14/07/16 4:43 pm . Hang Bo Nau A favorite among photographers, Hang Bo Nau, also known as Pelican Cave, is famous for the framed views it offers of ships sailing in the bay. Dragon Boats These brightly painted boats repre sent the legendary beast that created Halong Bay. Dragons are also held to be symbols of royalty and good luck in Vietnam. Floating Villages Located near Hong Gai’s harbor, these villages include not only houseboats, but also floating fuel stations, herb gardens, kennels, and even pigpens. . Hang Sung Sot Hang Sung Sot or Cave of Awe is best known for its phallus-shaped rock, a fertility symbol. The formations in the inner chamber are said to resemble a group of sentries conversing. NORTHERN VIETNAM 187 VISITORS’ CHECKLIST Practical Information Road Map C1. 102 miles (164 km) E of Hanoi; 37 miles (60 km) NE of Haiphong.&for some islets and caves. 8 can be hired from Hanoi, Halong City, and Haiphong. 0Halong City. Caution: Some boats have had safety problems. Inquire about life jackets and safe practices before booking boat trips. Transport @from Hanoi.gfrom Haiphong. 4from Bai Chay Jetty. (taxi from Hanoi and Haiphong.) Halong City Hong Gai Bai Chay Bo Hon 0 kilometers 0 miles 2 2 186-187_EW_VTN.indd 187 14/07/16 4:43 pm 188 VIETNAM AREA BY AREA For hotels and restaurants see pp240–41 and pp252–3 Sailing past the evocatively shaped islets and dramatic caves of Halong Bay can be a magical experience. At least an entire day can be spent exploring the islands and grottos, many of which house religious shrines. Most of the best-known sites lie in the western part of the bay and these are often overcrowd ed. It generally makes for a more relaxing trip to charter a private boat, hire a knowledge able guide, and sail around the less visited areas of the shimmering bay. Exploring Halong Bay T Hang Dau Go & One of the most famous caves in Halong Bay, Hang Dau Go or Hidden Timber Cave is on Dau Go Island, on the way to Cat Ba Island (see p193). The cave’s name dates from the 13th century when General Tran Hung Dao (see p44) used it to hide his lethally sharpened metal stakes. The weapons were later planted in the shal low waters near the shore to des troy enemy Mongol fleets. Hang Dau Go is filled with many bizarre-shaped stalactites and stalagmites. T Hang Sung Sot & Aptly known as the Cave of Awe, Hang Sung Sot is located on Bo T Dong Tam Cung A massive karst fissure, Dong Tam Cung or Three Palaces con sists of three chambers, each of which is packed with stalactites and stalagmites. All three grottos are illuminated by strategically placed spotlights, which emphasize the strange, massed, carrot-shaped array of stalactites. Opinion is divided, but some consider Dong Tam Cung to be even more impressive than Hang Dau Go. } Dao Tuan Chau & 0 = A large island to the south of Bai Chay, Tuan Chau has been developed as a recreation complex, with a few restored French-Colonial villas and a resort holding unimpressive whale, dolphin, and sea lion shows. It is also the starting point for a number of tours of the bay. } Dao Titop The main attraction of this island is its isolated beach, which is very popular with swimmers. It is possible to hike to the top of the islet where there is the most spectac ular view of Halong Bay. Visitors can enjoy the few watesports facilities available at the small beach, including swimming and parasailing. Pink-lit, phallus-shaped rock, revered by locals, in Hang Sung Sot The brightly painted houses of a floating village in Halong Bay T Hang Thien Cung & Also on Dau Go Island, Hang Thien Cung or the Celestial Palace Grotto can be reached by a steep flight of steps. It was discovered only in the mid-1990s. Floodlights in pink, green, and blue illuminate the sparkling stalactites that hang from the high ceiling. Hon Island, which the French knew as the Isle de la Surprise. The first cavern in the threechambered Sung Sot features a large, phallus-shaped rock, lit in lurid pink, and worshipped as a fertility symbol by the locals. The formations in the inner chamber, named the Serene Castle, on the other hand, are fascinating, seeming to come alive when the reflec tions of the water out side play upon them. Nearby, Hang Bo Nau or Pelican Cave draws visit ors for the fantastic views it offers across the bay. T Hang Trong A short distance southeast of Hang Bo Nau, the small Hang Trong or Drum Cave echoes faintly with an eerie percus sive sound when a strong wind blows past its stalactites and stalagmites. 188-189_EW_VTN.indd 188 14/07/16 4:37 pm NORTHERN VIETNAM 189 Ferries docked at Hon Gai, Halong City 2 Halong City Road Map C1. 102 miles (164 km) E of Hanoi on Hwy 18; 37 miles (60 km) NE of Haiphong on Hwy 10. * 200,000. @ from Haiphong and Hanoi. g from Haiphong. 4n Halong Tourism, (033) 384 7481. _ Long Tien Pagoda Festival (late Apr). Formed in 1994 with the offi cial amalgamation of the towns of Bai Chay and Hon Gai, Halong City is bisected by the narrow Cua Luc straits, which is straddled by a new suspension bridge. Located to the west of the straits, Bai Chay is an affluent tourist town, home to a number of tour operators, hotels, and restau rants. It is also popular with the Vietnamese for its nightlife, which centers on karaoke bars and massage parlors of ques tionable repute. However, for most visitors, there is little of appeal in Bai Chay itself, which is simply a convenient place to stay and eat. Local authorities have tried to improve the situation by laying two artificial stretches of beach on the seafront, but not much has changed. The waters remain muddy, and the sand is polluted. East of the new bridge, the town of Hon Gai is the older, more historic part of Halong City. Although this town has its share of hotels and restaurants, it does not revolve around tourism. In fact, most of its wealth comes from industry, particularly the huge opencast coal mines that dom inate the coast east of Cua Luc. Beyond the coal dust of the docks is Nui Bai Tho or Poem Mountain, one of the few attractions of Halong City. The limestone mountain has earned its name from the weathered inscriptions on its sides, written in praise of the beauty of Halong Bay. The earliest of these is said to have been composed by King Le Thanh Tong in 1468. On the northern lee of the mountain stands Long Tien Pagoda, Halong City’s most colorful and interesting religious site. Stairway to the revered Chua Con Son, Yen Tu the summit of Yen Tu by foot, although now a cable car whisks sightseers to Hoa Yen Pagoda, just over halfway up the mountain. From here, another cable car goes on up to the most impor tant structure at the summit, Chua Dong or Bronze Pagoda. This is the spiritual home of the Truc Lam or Bamboo Forest sect of Mahayana Buddhism, and was built during the 15th century. It has been beautifully refurbished, with 70 tons (64 tonnes) of bronze used to form a 215 sq ft (20 sq m) temple intended to symbolize a lotus. Environs Situated on the western slopes of the Yen Tu range, about 3 miles (5 km) north of Sao Dao on Highway 18, are two of the country’s most important pilgrim age sites. Chua Con Son, one of the attractive pagodas in the north, is dedi cated to Nguyen Van Trai, the poetwarrior who aided Emperor Le Loi (see p44) in expelling the Chinese from Vietnam in the 15th century. The popular pagoda is always active, with monks and nuns chanting prayers almost constantly. Located nearby is the small temple, Den Kiep Bac, which is dedicated to Tran Hung Dao, a general of the Tran Dynasty (see p44) during the late 13th century and a deified national hero. An annual fes tival is held in his honor during the 8th lunar month. Floating fishing village in Halong Bay 3Yen Tu Pilgrimage Sites Road Map B1. 81 miles (130 km) NE of Hanoi; 9 miles (14 km) N of Uong Bi. @ from Hanoi, Halong City, and Haiphong to Uong Bi. 0 - _ Yen Tu Pagoda Fest (mid-Feb–end Apr). The holy mountain, Yen Tu, at 3,477 ft (1,060 m) is the highest peak in the range of the same name. It is named for Yen Ky Sinh, a monk who attained nirvana at the peak, about 2,000 years ago. Yen Tu became further renowned during the 13th century, when Emperor Tran Nhan Tong (r.1278–93) retired there to become a monk. Some of the 800 religious structures claimed to have been built by the emperor and his successors are still present here. For centuries, thousands of pilgrims have made the ardu ous ascent to 188-189_EW_VTN.indd 189 14/07/16 4:37 pm 190-191_EW_VTN.indd 190 17/07/14 3:14 PM 190-191_EW_VTN.indd 191 17/07/14 3:14 PM 192 VIETNAM AREA BY AREA For hotels and restaurants see pp240–41 and pp252–3 4 Bai Tu Long Bay Road Map C1. 37 miles (60 km) E of Halong City. @ from Halong City. 4 from Halong City and Cai Rong. An island-peppered stretch of shallow coastal waters, Bai Tu Long Bay may not be quite as celebrated as Halong Bay, but it is just as spectacular. With hundreds of karst out crops, tiny islets, as well as a few large islands and lovely beaches, it is less crowded and more pristine than Halong Bay. The largest, most develop ed island in the area is Van Don, accessible by both road and sea from the indus trial port of Cua Ong. Gor geous beaches and dense man grove swamps line the southeast coast of the island, mak ing it a popular destina tion. Most of the accommo da tion in the Bai Tu Long area is con cen trat ed in Van Don’s main town, the color ful fishing port-town of Cai Rong. This makes it an excellent base for excursions to neighboring islands. Unfortunately, Bai Tu Long Bay offers few tourist facilities. This is partly due to its isolated location, lying beyond the grimy coastal coal belt that stretches from Hon Gai District in Halong City to the small town of Cam Pha. As a result, most visitors prefer to join a tour from Hanoi, spending the night on board a boat and exploring the bay. Another option is to drive from Hon Gai to Bai Tu Long Bay, pass ing through Cam Pha and Cua Ong. The huge, open-cast coal mines on the way are quite a sight. From here, boats may be chartered to explore the out lying reaches of the bay. Environs The outermost of the three islands south of Van Don is Quan Lan. The main attraction on this destination is Bai Bien, a splendid white-sand beach. This is one of the few places beyond Cai Rong with facilities for an overnight stay. Co To, well into the South China Sea, is the most distant island lying off Cai Rong. The ferry journey takes about five hours each way. With a small beach and simple accommodation at Co To village, it makes for a quiet getaway. About 12 miles (20 km) from Cai Rong is Bai Tu Long National Park. Spread over Ba Mun Island and its surrounds, this park, established in 2001, is slowly gaining popularity as an ecotourism destination. 5 Haiphong Road Map B1. 62 miles (100) km E of Hanoi on Hwy 5. * 2,200,000. ~ from HCMC and Danang. £ from Hanoi. @ from Hanoi and Halong City. g from Cat Ba Island. n Haiphong Tourism, 18 Minh Khai St, (031) 382 2616. ∑haiphong tourism.gov.vn The third-largest city in the country after Ho Chi Minh City and Hanoi, Haiphong is the north’s most important port. Its strategic location made it the target of foreign invaders over the years. It also faced heavy bombing during the First Indochina War (see p47), and later, in the war against the US. Having survived its violent past, Haiphong today is a leading industri al metro polis, specializing in cement manu facture, oil refi ning, and coal transportation. Haiphong draws few tourists, even though the atmosphere is relaxed, and the food and accommodation good. The most attractive and noteworthy sights of this city are the beautiful French-Colonial buildings. These include a 19th-century cathedral by Tam Bac River, the Opera House on Quang Trung Street, and the Haiphong Museum, the Gothic façade of which is more remarkable than the exhibits inside. Situated some distance away from the town center, the 17th-century Du Hang Pagoda, on Chua Hang Street, is known for its elaborate architecture, while Dinh Hang Kenh, on Nguyen Cong Tru Street, is a fine old communal house. E Haiphong Museum 11 Dien Tien Hoang St. Open 8– 11:30am Tue & Thu, 7:30–9:30pm Wed & Sun. & Tiny floating village near the town of Cai Rong, Bai Tu Long Bay The colorful, embellished entrance to Du Hang Pagoda, Haiphong Silhouette of karst formations near Van Don Island, Bai Tu Long Bay 192-193_EW_VTN.indd 192 14/07/16 4:43 pm NORTHERN VIETNAM 193 6 Cat Ba Island Road Map C1. 28 miles (45 km) E of Haiphong; 14 miles (22 km) S of Halong City. * 22,000. 4 hydrofoil from Haiphong, charter boats from Halong City and Bai Chay. ∑catbavietnam.com The largest island in a scenic sprawling archipelago of more than 350 islets and islands, Cat Ba is one of Northern Vietnam’s most delightful destinations. The island’s main appeal has always been its relative isolation and bucolic charm. Waterfalls, freshwater lakes, hills, mangrove swamps, and coral reefs are just some of the features of Cat Ba’s ama zingly diverse ecosystems. Although these characteristics are evident in the island’s forests, idyllic beaches, and sparse sprinkling of tiny villa ges, Cat Ba Town is now becoming increas ingly pol luted and crowded. Never theless most boats dock here as it is the only settlement in the area where it is possible to stay over night and eat in some comfort. With its shabby little karaoke bars, a few small restaurants serving fresh sea food, some seedy massage parlors, and a couple of noisy disco theques, there is little to recommend it except as a gateway to the beautiful Cat Ba National Park, the main attraction of the island. In 1986, to help safeguard the island’s varied habitats, almost half of Cat Ba was given the status of a national park. Famous for its rugged landscape, with craggy limestone outcrops, lakes, caves, grottoes, and thick mangroves, the park offers visitors much to explore and experience. The astonishing range of flora found here is also impressive, with more than 800 species cataloged to date. The forests also sustain a variety of fauna, including wild boars, deer, macaques, as well as a large number of bird and reptile species. The park is especially renowned for its community of endangered Cat Ba langurs, found only here on Cat Ba Island. Today, their number is estimated at a dismal count of 50 animals. Apart from sightseeing, the park also offers activities such as trekking (see p265) and camp ing for the adven turous. However, facilities are very limited, and currently visitors need to bring along their own equipment and supplies. The short est and most popular trek climbs to the 656-ft (200-m) summit of Ngu Lam peak, from where there are panoramic views. A longer hike, which can take between four to six hours, leads through the park’s tree-canopied interior, past the vast Frog or Ech Lake, to the small hamlet of Viet Hai. From here, boats can be chartered back to Cat Ba Town. Boats may also be chartered from Cat Ba to explore the Halong Bay (see pp186–8), a short distance to its north, or the smaller but pic turesque Small hotels and guesthouses overlooking the waterfront, Cat Ba Town A bright Musella bloom in the Cat Ba National Park Lan Ha Bay, which is located to its northeast, and has tiny but exclusive beaches that can be enjoyed for a small fee. O Cat Ba National Park 12 miles (20 km) NW of Cat Ba Town. Open sunrise–sunset daily. & 8 for a small fee. For keys to symbols see back flap 0 kilometers 0 miles 10 10 Quang Yen Haiphong Beo Ben Cat Ba Cat Hai Phu Long Cat Ba National Park Bai Chay Hong Gai Ha Long Bay 192-193_EW_VTN.indd 193 14/07/16 4:43 pm 194 VIETNAM AREA BY AREA Reef Ecosystem Coral reefs are composed of the skeletons of millions of algae and coral polyps, accumulated over millennia. They flourish best in clear tropical waters, and form an immensely diverse habitat for a range of life forms, includ ing mollusks, turtles, and a countless variety of brightly colored fish. The rare green turtle grows to 5 ft (1.5 m) in length and can weigh up to 440 lb (200 kg), making it the largest hard-shelled sea turtle. Hard coral Schools of colorful fish. Dugongs or sea cows are gentle mammals that grow up to 10 ft (3 m) in length, and inhabit the shallow reef waters where they graze on sea grass. Marine Mammals of Vietnam Vietnam’s seas are home to many species of marine mammals, such as dolphins, porpoises, and even whales. The endangered Irrawaddy dolphin once lived in the Mekong Delta, but there have been no sightings for several years. The agile bottlenose dolphin, the humpback, and the southern right whale are among some of the rare marine mammal species seen in the waters off Vietnam. Bottlenose dolphins frolicking in water Humpback whale Soft coral The cuttlefish, a small relative of the squid, has an internal shell, eight arms, and two tentacles cov ered with suckers for catching prey. Stingrays are armed with a razor-sharp tail that is covered with toxic venom. Propelled by their large pectoral fins, these fish appear to fly through the water. Southern right whale Moray eels frequent coral reefs to a depth of 656 ft (200 m). On average 5-ft (1.5-m) long, they are voracious predators that hide in crevices in the coral. For hotels and restaurants see pp240–41 and pp252–3 Coral Reefs and Sea Life in Vietnam Set amid the warm waters of the tropics, Vietnam’s 2,037-mile (3,260-km) long coastline, with its numerous off shore islands, is home to many resplendent coral reefs. These extend from the cool waters of Halong Bay in the north, through the warmer seas off Nha Trang and Phu Quoc, to the remote Con Dao Islands in the south. They also provide an immensely diverse habitat for a variety of sea life. The World Wildlife Fund (WWF) has identified nearly 340 species of coral living in Vietnamese waters – almost 50 percent of the world’s coral species. Though most of the reefs here are endan gered by dynamite fish ing and cyanide poisoning, various organizations are working actively toward the preservation of Vietnam’s magnificent coral heritage. 194-195_EW_VTN.indd 194 14/07/16 4:43 pm NORTHERN VIETNAM 195 7 Ninh Binh Road Map B2. 59 miles (95 km) S of Hanoi on Hwy 1. * 155,000. £ Reunification Express between Hanoi and HCMC. @ Hanoi. n Ninh Binh Tourism, Dinh Tien Hoang Rd, (030) 388 4101. ∑ dulichninhbinh.com.vn An ideal base from which to explore the southern part of the Red River Delta, Ninh Binh is becoming a popular tourist des tination. While the town itself is not remarkable, it does feature several interesting attractions in its vicinity. The historic site of Hoa Lu, 7 miles (12 km) north west of Ninh Binh, was estab lished as a royal capital in AD 968 by Emperor Tien Hoang De, the founder of the Dinh Dynasty (r.968–980). A massive palace and citadel constructed by him, though now mostly in ruins, is still impres sive. A second royal temple in the vicinity is dedicated to Le Dai Hanh, founder of the Early Le Dynasty (r.980–1009), which suc ceeded the Dinh Dynasty. They are credited with replac ing Chinese curren cy with Vietnamese coinage. Just 7 miles (12 km) northwest of Hoa Lu, is the country’s biggest temple complex, Bai Dinh Temple. It opened in 2010 and features statues of 500 arhats (enlightened Buddha) and a 100-ton (91 tonnes) bronze Buddha image. To the southwest of Hoa Lu in the Thanh Hoa Province is the Ho Citadel, a World Heritage Site recognized by UNESCO in 2011. Established by the Ho Dynasty in the early 15th century, all that remains of the citadel are four walls made of massive stones and four arched gateways. Tam Coc or Three Caves at 6 miles (10 km) southwest of Ninh Binh town is often promoted as Vietnam’s “Halong Bay on Land.” It also features karst outcrops, but while those at Halong Bay thrust upwards from the waves, at Tam Coc they rise majestically from a sea of green rice fields. It takes about three hours to visit Tam Coc, rowed in metal boats along the watery landscape and through three long caves. Trang An, just 4 miles (7 km) west of Ninh Binh, offers a similar experience to Tam Coc, and is also explored by boat. It was listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2014 for its cultural and natural heritage. Located 13 miles (21 km) northwest of Ninh Binh, the idyllic fishing village of Kenh Ga is also worth a visit. Centered on a small island and surrounded by stark karst formations, it features fish farms, herds of ducks and all things aquatic. It takes three hours or so to tour Kenh Ga, and it is wonderfully relaxing to chug slowly along to Van Trinh Grotto observing tranquil rural scenery en route. Kenh Ga is accessed via the town of Tran Me, as are the reed-filled marshes of Van Long Nature Reserve, where a small community of the rare Delacour’s langur lives, secure among the inaccessible limestone outcrops. Around 19 miles (30 km) southeast of Ninh Binh, Phat Diem town is home to Phat Diem Cathedral, one of the most well-known churches in Vietnam. Alexandre de Rhodes, a French Jesuit priest who developed the nation’s Romanized writing system, preached here in 1627, but it was Tran Luc, a Vietnamese priest, who organized the construction of this unique cathedral. It was completed in 1898, and combines European Gothic church architecture with Sino-Vietnamese temple tradition. O Van Long Nature Reserve Gia Vien Dist, Ninh Binh Province. Open daily. & 8 by arrangement. 5 Phat Diem Cathedral Tel (030) 386 2058. Open daily. 7 Boats approaching one of the many low, long cave passages found at Tam Coc Farmers at Kenh Ga using buckets to irrigate a field, a common practice 194-195_EW_VTN.indd 195 14/07/16 4:43 pm 8 Perfume Pagoda Nestled in forested limestone cliffs, and overlooking the Suoi Yen River, Perfume Pagoda is arguably one of Vietnam’s most spec tacular sights. Located on Nui Huong Tich or Fragrant Vestige Mountain, the pagoda is actually a complex of around 30 Buddhist shrines. The most fascina ting of these is the Huong Tich Pagoda, which is set in a deep cavern in the mountainside, and is dedicated to Quan Am, the Goddess of Mercy. Each year, during the Perfume Pagoda Festi val (see p34), thousands of Buddhists embark on a pilgrimage up the mountain, praying for absolu tion, good health, and, in the case of childless couples, a baby. . Thien Tru Pagoda Also known as the Heavenly Kitchen Pagoda, this 18th-century shrine rises through three levels on the mountainside. An elegant triple-roofed bell pavilion stands in front of the temple and a statue of Quan Am dominates the main altar inside. . Huong Tich Pagoda This revered grotto is filled with incense smoke and several gilded figurines of the Buddha and Quan Am. The phrase “Most Beautiful Cavern under the Southern Sky” is carved near its entrance, where 120 steps lead down into the cave. Steps leading to Huong Tich The steep walk up to Huong Tich takes at least an hour. During the Perfume Pagoda Festival, thousands of pilgrims throng the steps, greeting everyone with a pious nam mo A Di Da phat, or “praise to the Amitabha Buddha.” 196 VIETNAM AREA BY AREA Cua Vong Thanh Son Huong Dai Thien Tru Pagoda nestled amid the lush green peaks of Nui Huong Tich For keys to symbols see back flap KEY 1 Giai Oan Pagoda, or the Undoing Injustice Pagoda is popular with pilgrims seeking purification and justice. 2 Tien Son Pagoda, is set in a cave and is one of the holiest shrines here. It is dedicated to Quan Am and contains four ruby statues. 3 Den Trinh Pagoda, is the first stop on the mountain as all pilgrims are required to “register” or pray and ask for acceptance of their journey up to Huong Tich. 196-197_EW_VTN.indd 196 14/07/16 4:43 pm 9Cuc Phuong National Park Road Map B2. Nho Quan District, 28 miles (45 km) W of Ninh Binh; 87 miles (140 km) SW of Hanoi. Tel (030) 384 8006. @ minibus from Ninh Binh. Open 8am–5:30pm daily. & 8 by arrangement with park authorities. 0 - = ∑ cucphuongtourism.com Established as Vietnam’s first national park in 1962, Cuc Phuong covers 86 sq miles (223 sq km) of largely primary tropical forest, and is home to an impressive variety of fauna, including over 100 species each of mammals and reptiles, and more than 300 types of birds. The park is also famous for its range of flora, which includes soaring 1,000-year-old trees and medicinal plants. One of the main highlights at the park is the Endangered Primate Rescue Center, which cares for animals rescued from hunters, promotes breeding and conservation programs, and also rehabilitates endangered primates for release into the wild. Home to many species of langur, gibbon, loris, and other primates, the center is a great place to see these animals at close range. Cuc Phuong has excellent trekking opportuni ties (see p265) and many attrac tions such as waterfalls, a botanical garden, and nearby Muong villages that offer overnight stays. O Endangered Primate Rescue Center Tel (090) 326 7599. Open daily. ∑ cucphuongnationalpark.com/ primate-centre . Suoi Yen River A fleet of boats, all rowed by women, ferries tourists up this breathtaking river on their way to the Perfume Pagoda. The hour-anda-half journey is a tranquil glide through verdant paddies, the profound silence broken only by the slap of the oars. NORTHERN VIETNAM 197 For hotels and restaurants see pp240–41 and pp252–3 Thanh Son Huong Dai Suoi Yen River Trip to Perfume Pagoda Rowboats made of metal await passengers for the trip to the magnificent Perfume Pagoda from the township of My Duc. VISITORS’ CHECKLIST Practical Information Road Map B1. 40 miles (65 km) SW of Hanoi along Hwy 21, My Duc township. Open daily. & 8 - = A cable car carries passengers from Thien Tru Pagoda to Huong Tich Pagoda. The cost of this ticket is not included in the admission price. Transport @ from downtown Hanoi and Ninh Binh. 4 Rare Cervus nippon deer in Cuc Phuong National Park 196-197_EW_VTN.indd 197 14/07/16 4:43 pm 198 VIETNAM AREA BY AREA For hotels and restaurants see pp240–41 and pp252–3 e Son La Road Map A1. 199 miles (320 km) NW of Hanoi on Hwy 6; 93 miles (150 km) E of Dien Bien Phu on Hwy 6. * 92,000. ~ Hanoi. @ from Hanoi and Dien Bien Phu. Bisected by the narrow Nam La River, the busy little town of Son La was once known as “Vietnam’s Siberia.” The infamous French-era prison, Son La Prison, which earned it this label, stands menacingly on a wooded hill. Son La’s isolation and cold weather were considered ideal conditions for the incarceration of Vietnamese nationalists and revolutionaries. Recalcitrant prisoners were shackled and confined in windowless cells, and the prison guillotine saw regular use. However, as is often the case, the prison also served as a revolutionary academy of sorts. Some of the political prisoners held here included luminaries such as 0 Hoa Binh Road Map B3. 46 miles (74 km) SW of Hanoi. * 115,000. @ Hanoi. n Hoa Binh Tourist, 395 An Duong Vuong St, (018) 385 4374. A pleasant little town, Hoa Binh means “peace.” Ironically, its strategic location next to the Song Da or Black River Valley made it the site of many battles during the First Indochina War (see p47). Relics from these turbu lent times are displayed in the Hoa Binh Museum. A French landing craft and a destroyed French tank can be seen on its grounds. Tradi tionally home to the Muong commu nity, the town has shaded avenues and some decent eateries, which makes it a con venient stop on a tour from Hanoi to neighboring places such as Moc Chau and around Mai Chau Valley. A few miles northwest of Hoa Binh is Song Da Reservoir. Boat trips to the minority villages and the reservoir can be arranged through local tour operators. E Hoa Binh Museum 6 An Duong Vuong St. Tel (018) 385 2177. Open 7–11am, 1:30–4:30pm daily. & q Mai Chau Valley Road Map B2. 87 miles (140 km) SW of Hanoi; 43 miles (70 km) SE of Moc Chau on Hwy 6. * 50,000. @ from Hanoi and Son La. Surrounded by the foothills of the Truong Son Range, this charming and fertile valley is dot ted with green rice paddies and small, quaint stilt-house villages. Most of the inhabitants here are White Thai. Well known for their hospitality, fami lies here offer homestay (see p234) facilities in stilt huts – an authentic yet comfortable way of experien cing life on the hills, though it can get crowded at weekends. Some of the larger homestays even put on dis plays of traditional Thai music and dancing. At night, visitors can enjoy the local alcohol ruou can, which is drunk communally from large jars through long bamboo straws. One of the main highlights here is the excellent trekking opportunities pro vided by the valley’s delightful trails, fields, and villages. w Moc Chau Road Map B1. 124 miles (200 km) SW of Hanoi; 75 miles (121 km) SE of Son La on Hwy 6. * 118,000. @ from Hanoi and Son La. The semi-rural, market town of Moc Chau, surrounded by a plateau of the same name, is renowned for its tea planta tions and its burgeoning dairy industry. The generous yield of fresh cow’s milk, as well as the creamy yogurt and rich sweets made here are trans ported to Hanoi daily. Since Moc Chau is not as convenient as Mai Chau for longer stays, most people stop here only for refreshments on the drive from Hanoi to Son La. Ethnic minorities such as the Hmong (see pp202–3) and Thai occupy the neighboring ham lets, which are definitely worth a visit. White Thai girls in traditional costume perform a folk dance, Mai Chau French tank captured in the First Indochina War, Hoa Binh Museum Black Thai women selling their wares in makeshift stalls, Son La 198-199_EW_VTN.indd 198 14/07/16 4:48 pm NORTHERN VIETNAM 199 r Dien Bien Phu Road Map A1. 292 miles (470 km) NW of Hanoi; 93 miles (150 km) W of Son La. * 70,000. ~ Hanoi. @ from Hanoi, Son La, and Lai Chau. Situated in a fertile valley near the Lao border, this historic town’s main claim to fame is the deci sive battle of Dien Bien Phu (see p47). In 1954, following French infiltration of the area, Viet Minh troops system atic ally broke down the French position. In the end, General de Castries, comman der of the French army, and his troops were captured. Today, the town has moved past its violent history and is developing at a rapid pace. Dien Bien Phu poignant memorial to the French dead. Chronicling the great battle, Dien Bien Phu Museum is full of weapons, pictures, maps, dioramas of the battle field, and personal possessions of soldiers. Just oppo site is the Dien Bien Phu Martyrs’ Cemetery, where the Viet Minh fallen are buried. To the north is the famous Hill A1, named Eliane by the French, after one of General de Castries’ mistresses. The most interes ting relic here is the French general’s subter ranean bunker, covered with a rusting, corrugatediron roof and reinforced with concrete. On the hilltop is a monu ment to martyred Vietnamese heroes, and a tunnel entrance used by the Viet Minh to reach a French camp, which they blew up with a mine. Farther north is the 120ton (109tonne) victory monument in bronze, which commemorates the battle’s 50th anniversary. This is one of the largest monuments in the entire country. E Dien Bien Phu Museum 1 Muong Thanh. Open 7:30–11am, 1:30–5pm daily. & Wooden stilt huts amid the flooded paddy fields around Son La Marble headstone of a hero, Dien Bien Phu Martyrs’ Cemetery Truong Chinh and Le Duan, both of whom later became General Secretaries of the Vietnamese Communist Party. The prison complex also includes a museum displaying remnants of French brutality and torture such as cramped underground cells and leg irons. Somewhat incongruously, exhibits such as hill tribe artifacts and clothing are also displayed here. A major attraction in town is the market on the east bank of the Nam La. Fresh fruit and vegetables, as well as handicrafts and cloth handwo ven by the White and Black Thai are on sale here. Chickens, ducks, and potbellied pigs are for sale, while small food stalls serve Son La’s specialty, goat meat or thit de. The more adven turous can sample tiet canh, congealed goat’s blood served with chopped peanuts and shallots. Located 4 miles (7 km) north of town is the Black Thai village of Ban Hin, where traditional stilthouses are surrounded by fruit orchards and coffee bushes. The scenery around Son La is very attractive and the drive to Dien Bien Phu leads past picturesque fields, hills, and interesting minority villages. E Son La Prison Dai Khao Ca. Tel (022) 385 2859. Open 7:30–11am, 1:30–4:30pm daily. & was once part of the Lai Chau Pro vince, a section of which has now been sub merged by the waters of the rising Son La Dam. As a result, the new province of Dien Bien Phu was created, leading to a boom in construction work, both for administrative build ings and for resettlement purposes. Rapidly being encroached on by new build ings, the main battlefield on the east bank of the Nam La River has a few old, rusty French tanks lying around even today. Nearby stands a 198-199_EW_VTN.indd 199 14/07/16 4:48 pm 200 VIETNAM AREA BY AREA For hotels and restaurants see pp240–41 and pp252–3 t Sapa Road Map A1. 236 miles (380 km) NW of Hanoi. * 41,000. £ from Hanoi to Lao Cai. @ Lao Cai. n Sapa Tourism, 2 Fansipan St, (020) 387 1975. ( Sat & Sun. ∑sapa-tourism.com With cascad ing rice terraces and lush vegetation, Sapa is perched at an elevation of 5,250 ft (1,600 m) on the eastern slopes of the Hoang Lien Mountains, also known as the Tonkinese Alps. Jesuit priests first arrived here in 1918 and sent word of the idyllic views and pleasant climate back to Hanoi. By 1922, Sapa was established as a hill station where the French built villas, hotels, and tennis courts, transforming the place into a summer retreat. In this scenic setting, French colonists or colons would flirt, gossip, eat strawberries, and The spectacular Tram Ton Pass, north side of Mount Fansipan, Sapa Black Dao woman in traditional garb, and a child drink lots of wine. These idyllic conditions lasted until World War II and the Japanese inva sion of 1941. Many villas and hotels were destroyed or aban doned in the next four decades dur ing wars with the French and the US (see pp47–9). Still more destructive was the SinoVietna mese War of 1979, when the town itself was damaged. Fortunately, following the introduction of Vietnam’s economic reforms or doi moi in the 1990s and the subsequent gradual opening of the country to tourism, Sapa gained a fresh lease on life. Revived by local entre preneurs and rediscovered by foreign visitors, the town slowly regained the distinction it enjoyed in colonial times. Set on several levels joined by small sloping streets and steep flights of steps, Sapa is home to diverse hill peoples, as well as ethnic Kinh and a growing army of visitors who come for the stunning views and fresh mountain air. Trekking has become a popular activity, and walks to nearby villages are open to all. Visitors often time their stay to coin cide with the weekend market, though it is now open on weekdays too. A major section of hill people are the Black Hmong, who generally wear indigo, followed by the Red Dao. Young women turn up for this colorful bazaar wearing exquisitely embroi dered skirts and jackets, elaborate headdresses, and heavy silver jewelry. The small and simple Sapa church, which was built in 1930 and set in a square, forms the center of town where the locals collect on feast days. Southeast of the town is Ham Rong or Dragon Jaw’s Hill. A gentle climb leads up through rockeries and grottos to a summit. From here, there are magnificent views of the treefilled valleys below, dotted Hotels with balcony views in Sapa 200-201_EW_VTN.indd 200 14/07/16 4:43 pm NORTHERN VIETNAM 201 Brightly dressed Flower Hmong women gathered at Bac Ha market Local hill people completing their weekly shopping, Bac Ha market y Bac Ha Road Map A1. 205 miles (330 km) NW Hanoi, 43 miles (69 km) E of Lao Cai. * 12,000. @ from Lao Cai and Sapa. ( Sun. n (020) 378 0661. ∑bachatourist.com A small town at 2,950 ft (900 m) above sea level in the Chay River massif, Bac Ha has a deserted air for much of the week. However, on Sunday mornings, it attracts hill peoples, such as the Dao, Tay, Thai, Nung, and the colorful Flower Hmong among many others from all over the surrounding mountains. All of them head for Bac Ha’s dusty town center and market, leading ponies stacked high with fire wood, and carrying baskets loaded with merchan dise. Items sold and exchanged include bush meat, vegetables, fruits, spices, and exquisitely embroidered goods. Most hill people also use this occasion to stock up on necess ities as well as lux uries that are not available in the hills. Toiletries, religious paraphernalia, and incense sticks, as well as needles, thread, and cloth for embroidery are just some of the products in demand here. Environs Many visitors to Bac Ha also head farther north in order to combine a visit to the Sunday market with a trip to the small settlement of Can Cau. Located about 12 miles (20 km) from Bac Ha town, this charming village hosts a Saturday market, which is very popular with locals and visitors alike, espe cially for being delightfully vibrant and extremely colorful. Bac Ha district is also known for its potent maize alcohol, distilled most espe cially at the small village of Ban Pho, a Flower Hmong settlement just 2.5 miles (4 km) to the west of Bac Ha town. Colorful embroidered accessories by the Red Dao with the colorful villas. Dance perfor mances by the ethnic minorities are staged at the top of the hill. Environs The “Gateway to Sapa,” Lao Cai lies at a distance of about 25 miles (40 km) northeast of Sapa. A rather unappealing border town, it is not really a place to linger in. However, if cross ing to China or pass ing through to visit Sapa and Bac Ha, it is comfortable enough, with adequate hotel facilities and some good restaurants. About 5 miles (8 km) from Sapa, Mount Fansipan is the country’s high est peak. Around 10,300ft (3,140m) tall, it is covered in lush sub tropical vegeta tion to a height of about 660 ft (200 m), and then by temperate forest. Although the terrain can be difficult and the weather bad, the climb to the peak has always been attractive to trekkers (see p265). The construction of a cable car connecting Sapa with the top of Fansipan, while allowing access to the peak for all, has drawn complaints from environmentalists angered by the scale of the building project in previously unspoilt terrain. The lovely Black Hmong (see p203) village of Cat Cat is just 2 miles (3 km) south of Sapa. Visitors normally walk down the steep trail, but take a motorcycle taxi for the uphill ride back to town. The Hmong live in houses of mud, wattle, bamboo, and thatch, surrounded by vats of indigocolored liquid, which is used to dye their clothing. Just 2.5 miles (4 km) beyond Cat Cat is another Hmong village, Sin Chai, while the Red Dao (see p25) village of Ta Phin is only about 6 miles (10 km) from Sapa. The route to Ta Phin passes through a lowslung valley that is carved with curved rice terracing, which glints very brightly in the sun. Just before Ta Phin is an aban doned, semidestroyed French semi nary, which was built in 1942. Just around 9 miles (15 km) northwest of Sapa, on the road to the Tram Ton Pass is the Thac Bac or Silver Waterfall. This power ful 330ft (100m) high cascade is a magnificent sight, attracting many visitors. Here, women – Kinh, Black Dao, and Red Hmong – set up stalls selling delicious fruit. 200-201_EW_VTN.indd 201 14/07/16 4:43 pm Eyewitness Travel Feature template (SourceReport v1.3) Date 18th October 2012 Size 125mm x 217mm “UK” LAYER LAYERS PRINTED: Hmong of Northern Vietnam One of the largest ethnic minority groups in Vietnam, the Hmong or Meo were a nomadic group who emigrated from China to Vietnam in the early 19th century, and settled in the northern highlands. Known for their independent spirit – hmong means free in their language – the group has remained fiercely loyal to its indigenous customs, resisting assimilation with the Viet majority. Today, the Hmong have largely abandoned slash-and-burn agricul ture, and lead a settled, often impoverished life, farm ing and raising livestock. These people are catego rized under five main subgroups – Flower, Black, Green, Red, and White – based on the dress of the women. 202 V i e T n a M a R ea B y a R e a Vietnamese is taught in schools to encourage assimilation Hmong villages, known as giao, are small communities featuring wooden huts with thatched roofs. Unlike other hill communities, their homes are not built on stilts. They are usually constructed accord ing to ancient customs, stipulating that houses must be built on land blessed by ancestors. Dry rice cultivation, which is based on traditional slash-and-burn agriculture, has been adopted by the Hmong on the uplands. Maize, corn, and rye are other staples, while hemp and cotton are grown for cloth. In some remote areas, poppies are illegally harvested for opium. The ritualistic sacrifice of buffalos is common during festivals. The Hmong are traditionally animists, who believe that the meat will appease the region’s guardian spirits. A number of special musical instruments are used for such ceremonies, including large drums, water buffalo horns, and the queej, a kind of mouth harp. Bright strips of cloth, embroidered in vibrant patterns of flowers, birds, and geometric designs decorate the blouses of the women. The Black Hmong are distinguished by their black-dyed cloth ing. The men dress in baggy trousers, short tunics, and skullcaps, while women wear trou sers or skirts and leggings, often piling their hair into an open hat. Most Black Hmong villages are found around Sapa. 202-203_EW_VTN.indd 202 17/07/14 3:14 PM northern vietnam 203 Colorful Flower Hmong Admired for their extravagant and elaborate clothing, the Flower Hmong are the largest subdivision of the Hmong in the country. The vividly patterned cos tumes worn by the women include brightly colored head scarves, and full pleated skirts, as well as flamboy ant silver or tin jewelry. The women are also successful in busi ness, and often sell clothes and acces sories featuring their exquisite embroidery, batik, and appliqué work. Red Hmong women are known for their giant, bouffant hairdos. They pains takingly col lect all the hair they shed naturally, and then weave it around a headpiece, along with their living tresses. Occasionally, the hair of dead relatives is also woven in. Indigo is used by the Black and Green Hmong to dye trousers, skirts, and sashes, which are hand-wo ven out of hemp. Batik is often utilized to further embellish these richly colored outfits. Flower Hmong flock to Bac Ha Market once a week to sell fresh produce, honey, bamboo, and herbs. They also stock up on necessities such as match es, cloth, needles, and kitchenware. Heavy silver jewelry is worn by Hmong women both as adorn ment and as a mark of status. The intri cately crafted earrings, necklaces, and bracelets often feature the snake motif – a talisman against evil forces. Men and children also wear jewelry, as it is believed to bind the body and soul together. Hmong textile stalls are a staple of the weekly mar kets of the northern highlands. The Hmong have been relatively successful in selling their handicrafts to visitors. Their appliqué work and embroidered fabrics are now very popular. Appliqué bags and aprons are indicators of marital status and social position. Gui, or woven baskets, into which babies are tucked, are strapped to the backs of Hmong mothers, which helps keep their hands free for daily tasks. 202-203_EW_VTN.indd 203 17/07/14 3:14 PM 204 VIETNAM AREA BY AREA For hotels and restaurants see pp240–41 and pp252–3 Dawn breaking above the shimmering expanse of Ba Be National Park’s lake A generous growth of weed amongst rocks in the Dong Van Karst Plateau Geopark o Dong Van Karst Plateau Geopark Road Map B1. 212 miles (342 km) N of Hanoi. @ Ha Giang n For permit: Immigration Office, 5 Tran Quoc Toan, Ha Giang. Tel (021) 9387 5210. Open 7–11:30am, 1:30–4:30pm Mon–Fri. Vietnam’s northernmost province of Ha Giang contains unforgettable landscapes in the Dong Van Karst Plateau Geopark, recognized by UNESCO as the first global geopark in Vietnam. Covering over 900 sq miles (2,500 sq km), this wonderland of limestone peaks rise to an average of 4,920 ft (1,500 m). Visitors need to acquire a permit in Ha Giang and a 4WD or a motorbike is necessary to navigate the rough mountain roads. The spectacular views begin at Heaven’s Gate, just above the town of Tam Son, where a lush valley is bordered by rugged karst outcrops. From here the route passes through Yen Minh to Dong Van, the northernmost town of Vietnam passing villages of minority groups like the White Hmong. Sights of interest near Dong Van include the Vuong Palace, and Lung Cu Flag Tower, which marks the northernmost point in the country. From Dong Van, the route continues to Meo Vac via the Ma Phi Leng Pass, which offers breathtaking views of the Nho Que River in the canyon below. From Meo Vac, it is possible to head south to Cao Bang or Ba Be Lake via the small town of Bao Loc. u Ba Be National Park Road Map B1. 149 miles (240 km) N of Hanoi; 37 miles (60 km) N of Bac Kan Town. Tel (0281) 387 1180. & 8 by arrangement with park authorities. 0 Located in a remote upland region, this lush park is centered on three linked lakes – Ba Be means Three Bays. Together they form the country’s largest freshwater lake area. Covering about 40 sq miles (100 sq km), the park is dominated by dramatic limestone peaks, waterfalls, and grottos. The region’s tropical forests are also home to an abundance of wild life, including the François langur and the endangered Tonkin snub-nosed monkey. Some of the main attractions in Ba Be National Park include the Dau Dang Falls, a spectacu lar series of cas cades, found at the northwest end of the lake. Also worth seeing is the Hang Puong, a fascinating grotto that tunnels its way all through the mountains. Situated around 7 miles (12 km) up the Nang River, this narrow cave can be navigated in a small boat, though the trip takes the better part of a day. To the south of the lake lies Pac Ngoi, a charm ing vil lage, which is inhabited by the Tay minority. Many villagers set up their houses as homestays for foreign visitors. Nung girl in rural Cao Bang i Cao Bang Road Map B1. 168 miles (270 km) N of Hanoi on Hwy 3. * 45,000. @ Hanoi and Lang Son. Well off the beaten track in the high mountains along the Chinese frontier, the thickly forested area around the small town of Cao Bang is home to several ethnic minorities, including the Tay, Dao, and Nung. While the town itself is not particularly distinctive, its surroundings are spectacular, and many visitors are drawn to its abundant trekking opportunities. The Vietnamese regard it as a place of historical significance. The scions of the 16th-century Mac Dynasty ruled here, and years later, Ho Chi Minh (see p173) made it his first base on returning to Vietnam after nearly three decades. Environs Around 37 miles (60 km) northwest of town, Hang Pac Bo or Water Wheel Cave is where Ho Chi Minh stayed on his return in 1941 from self-imposed exile. The cave has great historical importance as the birth place of the Viet Minh struggle. A small museum here makes for an interesting stop. About 56 miles (90 km) northeast of Cao Bang, Thac Ban Gioc is the largest waterfall in Vietnam. It straddles the Sino-Vietnamese border and it is necessary to get a pass at Cao Bang’s police station to visit the area. 204-205_EW_VTN.indd 204 14/07/16 4:43 pm NORTHERN VIETNAM 205 Flora The mountains and valleys of Northern Vietnam are covered with thick forests, sheltering a wealth of tropical and sub tropical flora, ranging from towering rainforests, dwarf bamboos, and tiny ferns to creeping vines, exquisite orchids, and colorful rhododendrons. Karst mountains covered with forests dominate the landscape, especially around Tam Coc, Cao Bang, and Halong Bay. Millions of cave swiftlets, tiny, fast-flying insectcatchers which live in the limestone caves of the north, leave their nests at dawn and return at dusk. The Annamese silver pheasant lives on the slopes of the Truong Son and Hoang Lien Son Mountains. Its red legs, red face, and black crest set off its lovely silver plumage. A dazzling variety of orchids bloom all over Vietnam. Of around 40 endemic species, 18 are found on Mount Fansipan (see p201). The Indochinese tiger once roamed the forests of Northern Vietnam freely. Mainly due to the use of tiger parts in traditional medicine, less than 50 of these majestic beasts survive in Vietnam today. Fauna The Truong Son Range has revealed more previously unknown large mammals than any other location during the late 20th century. These include the Vu Quang ox, the giant muntjac, and the Truong Son muntjac. Deer, wild boar, as well as many pri mate species inhabit the forests, especially in Cuc Phuong (see p197). The red-shanked Douc langur has bright maroon hind legs and reddish patches around the eyes. Its long tail adds to its considerable agility. The Vu Quang ox, or saola, is a rare forest-dwelling bovine, first discovered in 1992 at Vu Quang Nature Reserve. Weighing around 200 lb (90 kg), it has a brown coat with a black stripe along the back. Both sexes have large, curving horns. Flora, Fauna, and Birds of Northern Vietnam Under a thick, rich canopy of evergreen forests, the rugged mountainous hinterland of Northern Vietnam protects an amazingly diverse biosphere. Thousands of types of flora flourish here, as do a plethora of bird, mammal, and reptile species. However, a vast number of animals, many endemic to Vietnam, are currently under threat. Critically endangered species include the kouprey and the Tonkin snub-nosed monkey. The Asian elephant and the white-rumped black lemur are also facing serious threat. Fortunately, the autho rities are beginning to take notice and have adopted a proactive stance against poaching. With sustained conservation and reforestation measures, it is hoped that the north will eventually reach an ecological balance. 204-205_EW_VTN.indd 205 14/07/16 4:43 pm 206-207_EW_VTN.indd 206 17/07/14 3:14 PM excursion to angkor Introducing Angkor 208–211 The Temples of Angkor 212–225 Angkor Survival Guide 226–229 206-207_EW_VTN.indd 207 18/07/14 11:29 AM Situated in southwestern Indochina, the flat, low-lying country of Cambodia covers an area of about 69,500 sq miles (180,000 sq km), bordering Laos to the north, Thailand to both the north and west, and Vietnam to the east. Although Cambodia’s capital is now Phnom Penh, this title was once held by Angkor. For six centuries, between AD 802 and 1432, it was the political and religious center of the great Khmer Empire, which once extended from the South China Sea almost to the Bay of Bengal. The remains of the metropolis of Angkor now occupy 77 sq miles (200 sq km) of northwest Cambodia, and although its old wooden houses and palaces decayed centuries ago, the stunning array of stone temples erected by a succession of self-styled god-kings still stand. Set between two baray or reservoirs, Angkor today contains around 70 temples, tombs, and other ancient ruins. Among them is the stunning Angkor Wat, the world’s single largest religious complex. Religion Ancient Cambodia was highly influenced by South Asia, and Hindu gods such as Vishnu and Shiva were revered. From the 10th century AD onward, Buddhism gradually began to spread throughout the Khmer Empire, receiving a significant boost during the reign of Angkor mo n arch Jayavarman VII (r.1181–1218). As the two religions flourished, Angkorian architecture incorporated elements from both Hinduism and Buddhism. Eventually, Theravada Buddhism or the Way of the Elders emerged as the predominant school, and replaced Hinduism as the national religion. History The Khmer Empire was founded in the beginning of the 9th century AD, when Jayavarman II (r.802–850) proclaimed himself devaraja or the divine king of the land. A follower of Shiva, he built a gigantic, pyramidal temple-mountain representing Mount Meru, the sacred mythical abode of the Hindu gods. This structure laid the foundation of Angkor’s architecture (see pp218–19). His successor, Indravarman I (r.877–89) expanded the empire, but it was Yasovarman I (r.889–910) who shifted the former capital at Roluos to Angkor. He established his new seat of power by introducing Angkor The ancient capital of the great Khmer Empire, Angkor is, beyond doubt, one of the most magnificent wonders of the world and a site of immense archaeological significance. Located in dense jungle on the hot and torpid plains of western Cambodia, its awe-inspiring temples transport visitors into an enchan ting and mysterious world of brooding grandeur and past glory. Meandering river near Siem Reap (see p212), the gateway to the temples of Angkor Classical dancer, Cambodian Royal Ballet 208 E x C ursion T o A n g K o r 208-209_EW_VTN.indd 208 18/07/14 12:32 PM constructing a magnificent temple on the hill of Phnom Bakheng and another one on the massive East Baray. Angkor’s grandest structures, Angkor Wat was built by Suryavarman II (r.1113–50), and Angkor Thom by Jayavarman VII. Following Jayavarman VII’s death, Angkor entered a long era of decline, lying forgotten as Thai invaders ravaged the land. It was not until the 19th century that spellbound European explorers stumbled upon Angkor. Following their “discovery,” the ancient city underwent a period of restoration until the mid-20th century, when it disappeared again behind a curtain of war. During the Vietnam War (see pp48–9), Vietnamese communists used Cambodia as a staging post, and the US responded with largescale bombings, killing thousands of Cambodians, and giving rise to Pol Pot’s Khmer Rouge. This extreme Maoist party seized power in 1975, and by the time it was overthrown by the Vietnamese in 1979, it had killed an estimated two million Cambodians in one of the worst acts of genocide in history. Angkor Today Since the collapse of the Khmer Rouge in the early 1990s, Angkor has gradually reopened to the world. Miraculously, Key Dates in History AD 802 Khmer Empire established. AD 900 Capital moved from Roluos to Angkor. 1113–1150 Suryavarman II builds Angkor Wat. 1181–1201 Jayavarman VII builds the Bayon and Angkor Thom. 1352–1431 Siam attacks Angkor on four separate occasions. 1863 Cambodia becomes a French protectorate. 1953 Cambodia gains full independence from France under King Sihanouk. 1970 US begins carpet bombing of northern and eastern Cambodia. 1975 Khmer Rouge seizes power. 1979 Vietnamese forces overthrow Khmer Rouge. 1998 Khmer Rouge leader Pol Pot dies. 2005 UN approves tribunal for trying surviving Khmer Rouge leaders. in a nation so devastated by war, the great temple complexes have survived remarkably unscathed. Today, after painstaking clearance of unexploded ordinance and dense vegetation, restoration and conservation are once again in full swing. One of the most important archaeological sites in the world, Angkor attracts millions of visitors each year, providing a substantial boost to Cambodia’s economy. Buddhist monks walking past the grand Angkor Wat complex (see pp216–17) introducing angkor 209 208-209_EW_VTN.indd 209 18/07/14 12:32 PM Puork Roluos Group 5 miles (8 km) Phnom Penh Banteay Srei 7 miles (11 km) Srah Srang Siem Reap Prasat Baksei Chamkrong Krol Romeas Kuk Bangro Tram Neak Beng Thom Prasat Ta Noreay Prasat Prei Entrance Booth Banteay Pre Krol Ko Ta Som Ta Nei Thomannom Ta Keo East Mebon Chau Say Tevoda Pre Rup Banteay Kdei Bat Chum Leak Neang Top Prasat Komnap Bayon Prasat To Phum Pradak Bakheng Khvien West Baray Rahel East Baray SIEM REAP ANGKOR WAT PHNOM BAKHENG ANGKOR THOM PREAH KHAN PRASAT NEAK PEAN TA PROHM PRASAT KRAVAN Siem Reap Exploring Angkor Archaeological Park Set among dense green forests and neat rice paddies, the massive monuments at Angkor Archaeological Park are arguably the most remarkable and striking architectural masterpieces in Southeast Asia. Located north of Siem Reap, in the heart of Angkor, the vast Angkor Wat complex, with its imposing towers, and the great city of Angkor Thom, with its impressive causeway and gigantic smiling faces of the Bayon, are breathtaking sights, especially during sunrise or sunset. Farther north are the smaller yet unique temples of Preah Khan and Prasat Neak Pean. To the east of Angkor Thom is the magical Ta Prohm, with large trees growing through the temple walls. Farther out, the pink sandstone structure of Banteay Srei lies to the northeast, while to the south east are the ruins of the Roluos Group, the oldest in Angkor. Sights at a Glance Historic Monuments 2 Angkor Wat pp216–17 3 Phnom Bakheng 4 Angkor Thom pp220–23 5 Preah Khan 6 Prasat Neak Pean 7 Ta Prohm Exquisite carvings of dancing apsaras at Bayon, Angkor Thom Thick tree roots covering the stone walls and ceilings of Ta Prohm 8 Prasat Kravan 9 Banteay Srei 0 Roluos Group City 1 Siem Reap 210 EXCURSION TO ANGKOR 0 kilometers 0 miles 3 3 210-211_EW_VTN.indd 210 14/07/16 4:38 pm Puork Roluos Group 5 miles (8 km) Phnom Penh Banteay Srei 7 miles (11 km) Srah Srang Siem Reap Prasat Baksei Chamkrong Krol Romeas Kuk Bangro Tram Neak Beng Thom Prasat Ta Noreay Prasat Prei Entrance Booth Banteay Pre Krol Ko Ta Som Ta Nei Thomannom Ta Keo East Mebon Chau Say Tevoda Pre Rup Banteay Kdei Bat Chum Leak Neang Top Prasat Komnap Bayon Prasat To Phum Pradak Bakheng Khvien West Baray Rahel East Baray SIEM REAP ANGKOR WAT PHNOM BAKHENG ANGKOR THOM PREAH KHAN PRASAT NEAK PEAN TA PROHM PRASAT KRAVAN Siem Reap For keys to symbols see back flap Getting Around The temples at Angkor Archaeological Park require both time and motorized transport to visit. It is possible to visit the main sites by motorbike, but the most comfortable way to travel in this hot and dusty area is to be driven in an air-conditioned car. In colonial times, the French defined two circuits, both starting at Angkor Wat, which are still used today. The 11-mile (18-km) “small circuit” takes at least a day and covers the central temples of the complex, continuing to Ta Prohm, before returning to Angkor Wat by way of Banteay Kdei. The “great circuit,” a 17-mile (27-km) route, takes in the small circuit as well as the outer temples, going past Preah Neak Pean to Ta Som before turning south to Pre Rup. It takes at least two full days. Finely detailed panel of bas-reliefs at Angkor Wat Key Urban areas Archeological sites Major road Minor road Greater Angkor Area illustrated in the main map INTRODUCING ANGKOR 211 Locator Map 0 km 0 miles 10 10 Puork Pradak BANTEAY SREI Banteay Samre ROLUOS GROUP Tonle Sap Phnom Krom Siem Reap Siem Reap Gulf of Thailand South China Sea • ANGKOR Ho Chi Minh City Phnom Penh Nha Trang THAILAND LAOS CAMBODIA VIETNAM 210-211_EW_VTN.indd 211 14/07/16 4:38 pm Angkor Wat, Wat Thmei, Angkor National Museum Phnom Krom, Ferry Port, Tonle Sap Airport 3 miles (5 km) A C H A M E AN S T R E E T A C H A S YA R S T R E E T WAT B O S T R E E T H O S P I TA L S T R E E T S T R E E P U T B O U M C H H AY S T R E E T S T R E E T 0 5 S I V A T H A S T R E E T P O K A M B O R A V E N U E N AT I O N A L R O U T E 6 ( A I R P O R T R O A D ) Royal Gardens S i e m R e a p R i v e r Performance Hall Angkor Market Fruit Stalls McDermott Gallery & Beyond Gallery Raffles Grand Hotel Royal Palace Psar Chaa For hotels and restaurants see p241 and p253 1 Siem Reap Pronounced “See-em Reep,” Siem Reap literally means Siam Defeated, celebrating the 17th-century Khmer vic tory over the Thai kingdom of Ayutthaya. The town is the capital of Siem Reap Province, located in northwest Cambodia, and has achieved prominence as the main base for people visiting the temples of Angkor and Roluos. As a burgeoning center of tourism with a new airport, Siem Reap fea tures many new hotels and restau rants, and further development is ongoing. Exploring the city Siem Reap has managed to retain its calm, rural ambience despite becoming increasingly busy catering to millions of visitors every year. Its relaxed, well-equipped setting provides the ideal place to unwind after a day exploring Angkor. The French-Colonial Raffles Grand Hotel d’Angkor, which stands out regally opposite the Royal Gardens in the northern part of town, has been splendidly restored. The small Royal Palace, which is rarely visited by the reigning King Sihamoni, is close by. South of a statue of Vishnu marking the center of town, Pokambor Avenue runs down the right bank of the Siem Reap River to Psar Chaa. This old market is a great place to shop for souvenirs. Nearby, the renovated old French Quarter is home to some of the most atmospheric restau rants in the Angkor area. For those who wish to explore the area, the banks of the Siem Reap River offer a pleasant stroll. Several blue-painted stilt houses and creaky bam boo water wheels can be seen here. The modern, air-conditioned Angkor National Museum is filled with information on, and artifacts from, Angkor Wat. Farther south, situated some 6 miles (10 km) away, is the ferry landing on the Tonle Sap. The largest fresh water lake in South east Asia, it is also a bio sphere reserve. The main monuments at Angkor, the ticket office, and conservatory are all about 4 miles (6 km) north of town. About halfway, at Wat Thmei, is a stupa displaying the skulls of local Khmer Rouge victims. E Angkor National Museum 968 Charles De Gaulle. Tel (063) 966 601. Open 8.30am–6pm daily. ∑ angkornationalmuseum.com Verdant lawns outside the Raffles Grand Hotel d’Angkor (see p241), Siem Reap 212 EXCURSION TO ANGKOR Key French Quarter Siem Reap 1 Raffles Grand Hotel d’Angkor 2 Royal Palace 3 Psar Chaa 0 meters 0 yards 500 500 VISITORS’ CHECKLIST Practical Information 155 miles (250 km) NW of Phnom Penh. n Khmer Angkor Tour Guide Association, 9582 8248. _ Water Festival (Oct/Nov). ∑ tourismcambodia.com Transport k ~ g from Battambang and Phnom Penh. For keys to symbols see back flap 212-213_EW_VTN.indd 212 15/07/16 11:08 am 3 Phnom Bakheng Just S of Angkor Thom. Open sunrise–sunset daily. & general Angkor ticket. The ancient temple complex of Phnom Bakheng (also known as Bakheng Mountain) sits on a steep hill that rises 220 ft (67 m) above the surrounding plain. Built by King Yasovarman I (r.889–910) and honoring the Hindu god, Shiva, the Bakheng complex features one of the region’s first temple-mountains (see p218) – a distinctive style of temple architecture that has become a mainstay of Khmerstyle religious buildings. The complex was also surrounded by 109 towers, but most of them are now missing. However, the wellcrafted statues of lions, flanking each of the five terraced tiers of the temple, can be seen even today. The central sanctuary, one of five in all, is adorned with several decorative posts and statues of apsaras or celestial dancing girls, and makaras or mythical sea creatures. On the east side of the hill, a steep flight of broken stone stairs leads to the summit. The 2 Angkor Wat See pp216–17. 4 Angkor Thom See pp220–23. 5 Preah Khan 1.3 miles (2 km) NE of Angkor Thom. Open sunrise–sunset daily. & general Angkor ticket. Named for the sacred sword owned by the 9th-century king, Jayavarman II, Preah Khan temple complex was established by Jayavarman VII (r.1181– 1218), and functioned as a monastery and religious college. It is also believed to have served as a temporary capital for Jayavarman VII during the restoration of Angkor Thom following the city’s sacking by the Kingdom of Champa in 1177. An inscribed stone stele found here in 1939 indicates that the temple, the largest such enclosure in Angkor, was based at the center of an ancient city, Nagarajayacri – jayacri means sacred sword in Siamese. The central sanctuary was originally dedicated to the Buddha, but the Hindu rulers succeeding Jayavarman VII vandalized many of the temple’s Buddhist aspects, replacing several Buddha images on the walls with carvings of Hindu deities. Today, the complex extends over a sprawling 141 acres (57 ha), and is surrounded by a 2-mile (3-km) long laterite wall. The premises also have a massive reservoir or baray. Access to the central sanctuary, built on a cross-shaped layout, is through four gates, set at the cardinal points of the compass. One of the main highlights at Preah Khan is the Hall of Dancers, so named for the exquisite apsara bas-reliefs that line the walls. The shrine of the White Lady, a wife of Jayavarman VII, is still venerated by locals who leave behind offerings of flowers and incense. The most notable temple on the grounds, however, is the Temple of Four Faces, named for the carvings on its central tower. Like Ta Prohm (see p224), Preah Khan is studded with great trees whose creeping roots cover and, in places, pierce the laterite and sandstone structures on which they grow. Yet, unlike Ta Prohm, the complex has undergone extensive resto ration. Many of the giant trees here have been felled, and the walls are being pains takingly rebuilt. Statue of a hermit in prayer, Preah Khan Intricately detailed bas-relief of apsaras in the Hall of Dancers, Preah Khan Visitors enjoying sunset views across Angkor, Phnom Bakheng winding path on the south side is safer and is the usual path taken to carry tourists, on elephants, to the top. Here, there are spec tac ular views over Angkor and the Western Baray. At dusk, the setting sun illuminates the Tonle Sap and the spires of Angkor Wat with an ethe real glow. THE TEMPLES OF ANGKOR 213 Siem Reap 1 Raffles Grand Hotel d’Angkor 2 Royal Palace 3 Psar Chaa Young monks reading in Bayon Temple, Angkor Wat 212-213_EW_VTN.indd 213 14/07/16 4:38 pm 214-215_EW_VTN.indd 214 17/07/14 3:13 PM 214-215_EW_VTN.indd 215 17/07/14 3:13 PM For hotels and restaurants see p241 and p253 Highly detailed carvings on the outer walls of the Central Sanctuary . Central Sanctuary Towering over the complex, the Central Sanctuary can be a steep climb. Its four entrances feature images of the Buddha, reflect ing the Buddhist influence that eventually displaced Hinduism in Cambodia. The single largest religious monuments in the world, Angkor Wat literally means “the City which is a Temple.” Built during the 12th century by King Suryavarman II (r.1113–50), this spectacular complex was originally dedicated to the Hindu god Vishnu, the Protector of Creation. The layout is based on a mandala or sacred design of the Hindu cosmos. A fivetowered temple shaped like a lotus bud and representing Mount Meru, the mythical abode of the gods and the center of the uni verse, stands in the middle of the complex. The outer walls represent the edge of the world, and the moat is the cosmic ocean. Especially outstand ing are the intricate carvings that adorn the walls, including a 1,970-ft (600-m) panel of bas-reliefs and around 2,000 engravings of apsaras or celestial dancing girls with enig matic smiles. Angkor Wat, unusually among Khmer temples, faces west and toward the setting sun, a symbol of death. . Apsaras The carvings of hundreds of sensual apsaras or celestial dancing girls line the walls of the temple. Holding alluring poses, they are shown wearing ornate jewelry and exquisite headgear. 2 Angkor Wat 216 EXCURSION TO ANGKOR 216-217_EW_VTN.indd 216 14/07/16 4:43 pm The Causeway The wide pathway leading to the temple’s main entrance on the west side affords a spectacular view of Angkor Wat’s grand exterior. Balustrades carved in the form of nagas or serpents line both sides of the avenue. . Gallery of Bas-Reliefs The southern section of the Western Gallery depicts several scenes from the Hindu epic Mahabharata.The bas-reliefs here detail images of hundreds of weapon-bearing warriors engaged in furious combat during the Battle of Kurukshetra. View of Towers The five towers of Angkor Wat rise through three levels to a grand central shrine. The entire complex is surrounded by thick walls and a wide moat that represent the outer edge and the ocean of the universe. The view of the temple from the other side of the moat is stunning with its towers reflected in the still water. VISITORS’ CHECKLIST Practical Information 3.7 miles (6 km) N of Siem Reap. n Khmer Angkor Tour Guide Association, Siem Reap, 9582 8248. Open 5am–6pm daily. & general Angkor ticket. ∑ tourismcambodia.com Transport k to Siem Reap. @ KEY 1 Bas-reliefs in the Southern Gallery depict images of King Suryavarman II who initiated the construction of Angkor Wat. THE TEMPLES OF ANGKOR 217 216-217_EW_VTN.indd 217 14/07/16 4:43 pm Eyewitness Travel Feature template (SourceReport v1.3) Date 18th October 2012 Size 125mm x 217mm “UK” LAYER LAYERS PRINTED: Architecture Angkor-period architecture generally dates from Jayavarman II’s establishment of the Khmer capital near Roluos (see p225) in the early 9th century AD. From then until the 15th century, art historians identify five main arch itectural styles. The earliest, Preah Ko, is rooted in the pre-Angkorian traditions of Sambor Prei Kuk to Angkor’s east and the 8th-century style of Kompong Preah, relics of which are found at Prasat Ak Yum by the West Baray. Khmer architecture reached its zenith during the construction of Angkor Wat, but began declining soon after. 218 excuRSI on T o A n g K o R The eastern causeway of Bakong runs straight from the main gopura to the high central tower. This structure is raised on a square-based pyramid, rising to a symbolic temple-mountain. Preah Ko (AD 875–890) Characterized by a relatively simple temple layout, with one or more square brick towers rising from a single laterite base, the Preah Ko style saw the first use of concentric enclo sures entered via the gopura or gateway tower. Another innovation was the library annex, which may have been used to protect sacred fire. Phnom Bakheng impressively exemplifies the Bakheng style. It was the state temple of the first Khmer capital at Angkor, and dates from the late 9th century. It rises majestically through a pyramid of square terraces to the main group of five sanctuary towers. Pink sandstone library building in the inner enclosure of Banteay Srei Bakheng to Pre Rup (AD 890–965) The temple-mountain style, based on Mount Meru, evolved during the Bakheng period. Phnom Bakheng (see p213), Phnom Krom, and Phnom Bok all feature the classic layout of five towers arranged in a quincunx – a tower at each side, with a fifth at the center. The Pre Rup style developed during the reign of Rajendravarman II (r.944–68). It continues the Bakheng style, but the towers are higher and steeper with more tiers. This well-preserved guardian figure is carved from sand stone and set in the brick outer wall of a sanctuary tower at the 9th-century Lolei Temple of the Roluos Group. Pre Rup is distinguished by its size and the abrupt rise of its temple-mountain through several levels to the main sanctuary. The carved sandstone lintels are more finely detailed than in earlier styles. Archaeolo gists speculate that the structure may have served as a royal crematorium – pre rup means turn the body. 218-219_EW_VTN.indd 218 17/07/14 3:13 PM An aerial view of Angkor Wat makes the vast scale and symbolic layout of the complex very clear. Every aspect of Angkor is rich with meaning, the most apparent being the central quincunx of towers rising to a peak, representing the five peaks of the sacred Mount Meru. the temples of angkor 219 Banteay Srei to Baphuon (AD 965–1080) Represented by the delicate and refined Banteay Srei (see p225), this eponymous style is characterized by ornate carvings of sensuous apsaras (celestial dancing girls) and devadas (dancers). By the mid11th century, when Khmer architec ture was reaching its majestic apogee, this style had evolved into the Baphuon style, which is distinguished by vast proportions and vaulted galleries. The sculpture of the period shows increasing realism and narrative sequence. Banteay Srei, constructed between 967 and 1000, is known for its fine craftsmanship, evident in the exquisite detail of the bas-reliefs and carved stone lintels. Bas-reliefs of Suryavarman II in the west section of the Southern Gallery portray the king seated on his throne, surround ed by courtiers with fans and para sols. Below him, princesses and women of the court are carried in palan quins. In another fine bas-relief, the king is shown riding a great war elephant. Bayon (AD 1175–1240) Considered a synthesis of previous styles, Bayon – the last great Angkor architectural style – is still magnificent, but also characterized by a detectable decline in quality. There is more use of laterite and less of sandstone, as well as more Buddhist imagery and, correspondingly, fewer Hindu themes. The south gate of Angkor Thom is surmounted by a large, four-faced carving of the god-king or devaraja, Jayavarman VII. He is depicted as the Bodhisattva Avalokitesvara, gazing somberly in the four cardinal directions for eternity. The five-tiered Baphuon was the state temple of King Udayaditya varman II (r.1050–66). The mas sive structure was de scribed by 13th-century Chinese traveler Zhou Daguan as “a truly astonishing spectacle, with more than ten chambers at its base.” Angkor Wat (AD 1080–1175) Art historians generally agree that the style of Angkor Wat (see pp216–17) represents the apex of Khmer architectural and sculptural genius. The greatest of all temple-mountains, it also boasts the finest bas-relief narratives. The art of lintel carving also reached its zenith during this period. The bas-reliefs depicting scenes of battle at the temple of Bayon in Angkor Thom (see pp220–23) provide a remark able record of contemporary wars between the Khmer Empire and the Kingdom of Champa. The war resulted in the victory of Khmer King Jayavarman VII in 1181. 218-219_EW_VTN.indd 219 17/07/14 3:13 PM 4 Angkor Thom Remarkable in scale and architectural ingenuity, the ancient city of Angkor Thom, which means “Great City” in Khmer, was founded by King Jayavarman VII in the late 12th century. The largest city in the Khmer Empire at one time, it is protected by a 26-ft (8-m) high wall, about 8 miles (13 km) long, and surrounded by a wide moat. There are five gates to the city – four facing the cardinal directions and an extra one on the east side – all bearing four giant stone faces. Within the city are several ruins, the most celebrated of which is the Bayon, a particularly atmospheric temple at the center of this historic complex. 220 EXCURSION TO ANGKOR For hotels and restaurants see p241 and p253 Rows of gods lining the path to Angkor Thom’s South Gate . Bas-Reliefs on the Southern Gallery Carved deep into the walls, the bas-reliefs here feature images from everyday life in 12th-century Angkor. These include depictions of a cockfight, meals being cooked, festival celebrations, and market scenes. . Enigmatic Faces The temple’s central towers are decorated with four huge, mysteriously smiling faces gazing out in the cardinal directions. These are believed to represent the all-seeing and all-knowing Bodhisattva Avalokitesvara as personified by Jayavarman VII himself. The Western Gallery A devotee burns incense sticks before a statue of Vishnu, a Hindu god. The idol is thought to date from the time of the found ing of the temple, and is installed in the southern section of the Western Gallery, one of the many long galleries surrounding the Bayon. South Entrance KEY 1 Outer Enclosure 2 Central Tower 3 Bas-reliefs of a Khmer circus 4 Inner Enclosure 0 meters 0 yards 25 25 220-221_EW_VTN.indd 220 14/07/16 4:43 pm ANGKOR THOM 221 . Southern View of the Bayon From a distance, the Bayon appears to be a complicated, almost erratically structured temple. On closer inspection, however, its 54 majestic towers and 216 eerie stone sculptures take a more definite shape – their architectural grandeur inspiring the visitor with a sense of awe. Khmer Army in Procession The bas-reliefs on the Eastern Gallery provide scenes from the struggle between the Khmers and the Cham, which has been recorded in painstakingly fine detail. Here, the Khmer king, seated on an elephant, leads his army into battle. Detail of Devada The devada or dancer differs from the sensual apsara (see p216) and could be either male or female. A devada is portrayed in less alluring postures. The Bayon Located in the heart of Angkor Thom, the Bayon is one of the city’s most extraordinary structures, epitomizing the “lost civilization” of Angkor. This symbolic temple-mountain rises on three levels, and features 54 towers bearing more than 200 huge, yet enigmatic stone faces. It is entered through eight cruciform towers, linked by galleries that were once covered and which are gradually being restored. These galleries have some of the most striking bas-reliefs at Angkor, showcasing everyday scenes as well as images of battles, especially against the Cham. East Entrance VISITORS’ CHECKLIST Practical Information 1 mile (2 km) N of Angkor Wat; 5 miles (8 km) N of Siem Reap. n Khmer Angkor Tour Guide Association, Siem Reap, 9582 8248. Open 5am–6pm daily. & general Angkor ticket. 220-221_EW_VTN.indd 221 14/07/16 4:43 pm 222 EXCURSION TO ANGKOR For hotels and restaurants see p241 and p253 The fortified city of Angkor Thom is spread over an area of nearly 4 sq miles (10 sq km). At its peak, it had a population of around one million. Of the five gateways into the city, the most commonly used is the South Gate, from which a pathway leads straight to the Bayon temple. Beyond this lie the ruins of many other striking monuments, including Baphuon and Phimeanakas. Although most are in a state of disrepair, these colossal, beauti fully sculpted structures, adorned with intricate carvings, still reflect the glory and power of the Khmer Empire. Exploring Angkor Thom Pyramidal exterior of Phimeanakas, Angkor Thom South Gate The imposing South Gate is the best-preserved of the five gateways into Angkor Thom. Its approach is via an impres sive causeway flanked by 154 stone statues, gods on the left side and demons on the right, each carrying a giant serpent. The South Gate itself is a massive, 75-ft (23-m) high structure, surmounted by a triple tower with four gigantic stone faces facing the cardinal directions. On either side of the gate are statues of the three-headed elephant Erawan, the fabled mount of the Hindu god Indra. Bayon Representative of the period’s artistic brilliance, the Bayon is the city’s most unique temple. Shaped like a pyramid, its two most awe-inspiring features are the several huge calm, smiling faces that adorn its towers, and the fascina ting bas-reliefs on its many galleries (see pp220–221). Phimeanakas This royal temple-palace was built during the 10th century by King Rajendravarman II and added to later by Jayavarman VII. Dedicated to Hinduism, it is also Baphuon Believed to be one of the grandest of Angkor’s temples, Baphuon was built by King Udayadityavarman II in the 11th century. A Hindu temple, its pyramidal mountain form represents Mount Meru, the mythical home of the gods. A central tower with four entrances once stood at its summit, but has long since collapsed. The temple is approached via a 656-ft (200-m) long raised causeway and has four gateways decorated with elegant bas-relief scenes from Hindu epics such as the Mahabharata and Ramayana (Reamker in Khmer). Inside, spanning the western length of Baphuon, is a huge Reclining Buddha. As the temple was dedicated to Hinduism, this image was probably added later, in the 15th century. The temple has undergone intensive restoration, and is fully open to the public. Preah Palilay and Tep Pranam Two of the lesser, yet still impressive structures at Angkor Thom, Preah Palilay and Tep Pranam are located a short distance to the northwest of the Terrace of the Leper King. Preah Palilay dates from the 13th or 14th century and is a small Buddhist sanctuary set within a 164-ft (50-m) square laterite wall. The sanctuary, which is partially collapsed, is entered via a single gateway, and rises to a tapering stone tower. A 108-ft (33-m) long causeway leads to a terrace to the east of the sanctuary, which is distinguished by fine naga or serpent balustrades. Nearby, to the east, lies Tep Pranam, a Buddhist known as the Celestial Palace, and is associated with the legend of a golden tower that once stood here, and where a nineheaded serpent resided. This magical serpent would appear to the king as a woman, and the king would couple with her before going to his other wives and concubines. It was believed that if the king failed to sleep with the serpent-woman, he would die, but by sleeping with her, the royal lineage was saved. The pyramid-shaped palace is rectangular at the base, and surrounded by a 16-ft (5-m) high wall of laterite enclosing an area of around 37 acres (15 ha). It has five entranceways, and the stairs, which are flanked by guardian lions, rise up on all four sides. There are corresponding elephant figures at each of the four corners of the pyramid. The upper terrace offers great views of the Baphuon to the south. Massive smiling faces gazing into the distance, South Gate 222-223_EW_VTN.indd 222 14/07/16 4:43 pm ANGKOR THOM 223 Intricately carved and sculpted bas-reliefs and elephant figures adorning the Terrace of Elephants Step-by-step restoration in progress at the Terrace of the Leper King Terrace of the Leper King Situated a short walk southeast of Tep Pranam, this small platform dates from the late 12th century. Standing on top of this structure is a headless statue, known as the Leper King. Once believed to be an image of King Jayavar man VII, who, according to legend, had the disease, it is in fact a representation of Yama, the Hindu God of the Underworld. This statue is, however, a rep lica, as the original was taken for safekeeping to Phnom Penh’s National Museum. The terrace is marked by two walls, both beautifully restored and decorated with exquisite basreliefs. Of the two, the inner one is more remarkable, and is covered with figures of underworld deities, kings, celestial females, North and South Khleang These two essentially similar buildings are located to the east of the main road running past the Terrace of Elephants. The North Khleang was built toward the end of the 10th century by King Jayaviravarman, and the South Khleang was constructed during the early 11th century by King Suryavarman I (r.1002–50). The main architectural feature of the Khleangs are their sandstone lintels and elegant balustered stone windows. Unfortunately, the original function of the buildings is not known. Khleang, which means storehouse, is a modern designation and is considered misleading. Terrace of Elephants Built by King Jayavarman VII, this structure is over 950 ft (300 m) long, stretching from the Baphuon to the connecting Terrace of the Leper King. It has three main platforms and two smaller ones. The terrace was primarily used for royal reviews of military and other parades. The entire terrace is elaborately decorated with almost lifesize images of sandstone elephants in a procession and accompanied by mahouts. There are many images of tigers, lions, serpents, sacred geese, and Garuda, the eagle mount of Vishnu. sanctuary built in the 16th century. This was probably originally dedicated to the Mahayana school. Now used as a place of Theravada worship, it features a big sandstone Buddha image, seated in the “calling the earth to witness” mudra (posture). nagas with five, seven, or nine heads, devadas, apsaras, warriors with drawn swords, and strange marine creatures. The exact function of this terrace, which appears to be an exten sion of the Terrace of Elephants, is not clear. It was probably used either for royal receptions or cremations. Angkor Thom Key to map Area illustrated (see pp216–17) List of sites 1 South Gate 2 Bayon 3 Baphuon 4 Phimeanakas 5 Preah Palilay and Tep Pranam 6 Terrace of the Leper King 7 Terrace of Elephants 8 North and South Khleang 0 meters 0 yards 500 500 8 8 7 6 5 5 4 3 2 1 222-223_EW_VTN.indd 223 14/07/16 4:43 pm 224 EXCURSION TO ANGKOR 7 Ta Prohm 0.6 miles (1 km) E of Angkor Thom. Open 5am–6pm daily. & general Angkor ticket. 0 = Perhaps the most evocative and mysterious of all the tem ple structures at Angkor, Ta Prohm, which means Ancestor of Brahma, was originally a Buddhist monastery, built during King Jayavarman VII’s reign. A stone stele at the complex describes how powerful the monastery used to be. At its peak, it owned more than 3,000 villages, and was maintained by 80,000 attendants, including 18 high priests and over 600 temple dancers. The wealth of the temple, and of its founder, Jayavarman VII, is also listed, and included more than 35 diamonds and 40,000 pearls. 6 Prasat Neak Pean 2.5 miles (4 km) NE of Angkor Thom. Open 5am–6pm daily. & general Angkor ticket. 8 - = One of the most unusual temples at Angkor, Prasat Neak Pean or Coiled Serpents is a unique structure dating from the late 12th century. Like much else at Angkor, it was founded by King Jayavarman VII. Dedicated to Buddhism, it is located in the middle of the now dry lake, North Baray. The temple is built around an artificial pond surrounded by four smaller square ponds, usually dry except during the rainy season. In the center is a circular island with a shrine dedicated to Bodhisattva Avalokitesvara. A couple of intertwined serpents circle its base, thus giving the temple its name. To the east of the island is the sculpted figure of the horse Balaha, a manifestation of Avalokitesvara, who, according to Buddhist mythology, transformed himself into a horse to rescue shipwrecked sailors from a sea ogress. The pond represents a mythical lake, Anavatapta, believed to be the source of the four great rivers of the world. They are symbolically reproduced by four gargoylelike heads with spouts for mouths, from which water flows into four outer ponds. The east head is that of a man, the south a lion, the west a horse, and the north an ele phant. When the temple was func tioning, Buddhist devotees would seek the advice of resi dent monks, and then bathe 8 Prasat Kravan 2 miles (3 km) E of Angkor Wat. Open 5am–6pm daily. & general Angkor ticket. Dating from the early 10th century, Prasat Kravan was founded by Harshavarman I (r.915–23). Comprising five brick towers, it is one of the smaller temples in the com plex, and was dedicated to the Hindu god, Vishnu. The temple, whose name means Cardamom Sanctuary, is chiefly remarkable for its brickwork and basreliefs. These represent Vishnu, his consort Lakshmi, Garuda his eagle mount, naga the serpent, and a number of other divine attendants. The doorways and lintels of all five towers are made of sandstone, and that of the southern most tower has a fine in the holy waters flowing from the spout of which ever head had been prescribed by the monk. Human head-shaped fountainhead at Prasat Neak Pean The French started their archaeological restoration during the colonial period, and a deliberate attempt was made to preserve Ta Prohm in its existing condition, limiting restoration, and cutting down as little of the dense jungle as possible. As a result, the temple buildings remain smothered with the roots of giant banyan trees, preserving the atmosphere that 19thcentury explorers must have experienced. The temple sits on the peak of a hill and has a complex of stone buildings, surrounded by a rectangular laterite wall. The narrow passageways of the structure, along with huge kapok trees, provide relief from the tropical sun, and link a series of musty, darkened galleries. The main entrance is decaying yet magnificent, and filled with images of the Buddha that were recovered from the ruins. Beyond the gate is the fascinating Hall of Dancers. This mustsee sandstone building rests on square pillars, and is decorated with false doorways and rows of intricate apsara (celestial dancing girl) basreliefs. To the west is the main sanctuary, a simple stone structure distinguished by its jungle setting. The Ta Prohm Temple covered by giant banyan trees 224-225_EW_VTN.indd 224 14/07/16 4:43 pm THE TEMPLES OF ANGKOR 225 Ancient statue in Banteay Srei A goddess on the central shrine, inner enclosure, Banteay Srei Central sanctuary, Lolei Temple, Roluos Group 0 Roluos Group 7 miles (12 km) SE of Siem Reap. Open 5am–6pm daily. & general Angkor ticket. These ancient temples have borrowed their name from the small town of Roluos. The oldest monuments in the Angkor area, the temples mark the site of Hariharalaya, the very first Khmer capital established by Indravarman I (r.877–89). Three main com plexes can be found here. To the north of Highway 6, on the way to Phnom Penh from Siem Reap, is Lolei. Founded by Yasovarman I (r.889–910), this temple stands on an artificial mound in the middle of a small reser voir, and is based on a double platform, sur rounded by a thick laterite wall. The four central brick towers have surprisingly wellpreserved false doors and inscriptions. image of Vishnu riding his Garuda mount. In the middle of the central tower is a raised stone that was used to receive water for purification rites. recessed niches of the towers in the central sanctuary. The male divinities carry lances and wear simple loincloths. By contrast, the goddesses, with their long hair tied in buns or plaits, are dressed in looselydraped Indianstyle skirts, and almost every inch of their bodies is laden with gorgeous heavy jewelry. To the south of Lolei stands Preah Ko or the Sacred Bull. Built by Indravarman I, this Hindu temple was dedicated to the worship of Shiva. It was built to honor the king’s parents, as well as Jayavarman II, the founder of the Khmer Empire. The main sanctuary consists of six brick towers rest ing on a raised laterite platform. Close by are three statues of the sacred bull Nandi, for whom the temple was named, which are in a remarkably good condition. The motifs on the false doors, lintels, and columns are very wellpreserved. They include kala, mythical creatures with a grinning mouth and large bulging eyes, makara, sea creatures with a trunklike snout, and Garuda, the eagle mount of the god Vishnu. The temple sits resplen dent in its serene rural setting, and has undergone largescale restoration. Beyond Preah Ko, the huge mass of Bakong cannot be missed. This temple is also dedicated to Shiva, and was founded by Indravarman I in the 9th century. By far the largest monument of the Roluos Group, it is approach ed by a pathway protected by a sevenheaded naga, and flanked by guesthouses built for pilgrims. In the center of the complex is an artificial mound representing the mythical Mount Meru, said to be the center of the Hindu world and the abode of the gods. The mount rises in five stages, the first three of which are enhanced by stone elephants on their edges. At the summit rests the square central sanctuary, with four levels and a lotusshaped tower rising from the middle. The mound is surrounded by eight massive brick towers which, like the rest of Roluos Group, feature finely carved sandstone decorations. 9 Banteay Srei 19 miles (30 km) km NE of Siem Reap. Open 5am–5pm daily. & general Angkor ticket. The remote temple complex of Banteay Srei (also known as Srey) or the Citadel of Women is famed for its exquisitely detailed carving. Executed in pink sandstone, the complex was founded in the second half of the 10th century by Hindu priests, and so, unlike most other mon u ments in Angkor, is not a royal temple. Rectangular in shape, and enclosed by three walls and the remains of a moat, the central sanctuary contains ornate shrines dedicated to Shiva, the Hindu God of Destruction. The intricately carved lintels reproduce scenes from the great Hindu epic Ramayana. Depictions of Shiva, his consort Parvati, the monkeyking Hanuman, the divine goatherd Krishna, and the demonking Ravana are all beautifully etched. Also excep tional are the elaborate and finely detailed carved figures of gods and goddesses in the 224-225_EW_VTN.indd 225 14/07/16 4:43 pm 226 EXCURSION TO ANGKOR Getting There There are two international airports in Cambodia – Phnom Penh International Airport and Siem Reap International Airport. With several national and international airlines offering flights to both Phnom Penh and Siem Reap, visitors will find getting to Angkor easy. Major interna tional airlines include When to Go The best time to visit Angkor is during the country’s cool season, between November and February, although it can still be rather warm for most tourists. Alternatively, during the rainy season between June and November, Angkor is green and relatively cool, if rather wet. At this time, the barays (reservoirs) and certain temples such as Prasat Neak Pean (see p224) overflow with water. It is best to stay away during the hot season between March and May, when temperatures in Angkor can be stifling. Visas and Passports A onemonth visa for Cambodia is issued on arrival at international air ports and land and river border crossings. Tourist visas cost US$30. A passport photograph is required. Visitors who wish to stay longer should apply for an extension in Phnom Penh. Those who over stay their visa are fined US$5 each day. Evisas can be purchased online at www.evisa.gov.kh for US$37, Boarding a Bangkok Airways flight, Siem Reap International Airport One of the many tourist buses providing access to Siem Reap Vietnam Airlines, Lao Airlines, Malaysia Airlines, SilkAir, Thai Airways, Bangkok Airways, Jetstar, and Air Asia. Except for Thai Airways, all these air lines operate direct flights to Siem Reap from popular holi day destinations such as Hanoi, Ho Chi Minh City, Kuala Lumpur, Bangkok, and Singapore. Domestic carrier Cambodia Angkor Air, flies from both Phnom Penh and Ho Chi Minh City to Siem Reap on a daily basis. Note that it is not uncommon for flight sched ules to change suddenly or even for local airlines to shut down completely. For uptodate information on air fares, routes, and flight timings, check with your travel agent. Traveling by bus or taxi across land borders from Thailand, Laos, and Vietnam is a feasible and cheap option. Visitors entering from Vietnam have the choice of up to eight different border crossings. The most popular are from Moc Bai to Bavet and by ferry from Chau Doc to Phnom Penh. Several scheduled buses and sleeper buses run from Ho Chi Minh City to Siem Reap via Phnom Penh. With the new Japanesefunded Neak Loeung Bridge over the Mekong, this journey now takes under 12 hours and costs US$30–33. Camboticket is a useful online booking agency. Another mode of traveling to Angkor is by ferry or boat, though this is becoming less popular as air and road connections improve. River ferries from Phnom Penh to Siem Reap run daily and are easily available, but the journey can take up to six hours (US$25–US$35). Boat tours also operate from Ho Chi Minh City to Siem Reap. They take a week or so to get there and cost over US$2,500. One of the best known companies to offer boat tours is Pandaw Cruises. Angkor Travel Information Most visitors to Angkor arrive by air as the large number of international and domestic carriers servicing the country make flying a comfortable and viable option. Local as well as long-distance buses from Vietnam and Thailand provide an affordable alterna tive. However, though the highway from Phnom Penh has improv ed, the poor condition of most roads can result in delays and much discomfort in reaching Siem Reap. A more scenic approach is by ferry or boat. Regular hydrofoil services link Siem Reap with Phnom Penh, as well as Siem Reap and Chau Doc (see p104) in Vietnam. Moving around within Angkor is easy, with several inexpensive modes of transport to choose from. 226-227_EW_VTN.indd 226 14/07/16 4:43 pm ANGKOR SURVIVAL GUIDE 227 Tours from Vietnam There are several reputed travel agencies in both Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City that arrange tours from Vietnam to Angkor. Although packaged tours are pre-determined, visitors can also draw up personalized itineraries. The prices are usually inclusive of travel costs, sightseeing, and a guide. Visas, departure tax, and entry tickets to Angkor are generally not included. Customs Information Customs procedures tend to be lax, but penalties for violations are strict. The usual prohibitions on importing drugs and pornography apply. Signs warn against bringing explosives into the country, and Departure Tax For international flights there is a departure tax of US$25 per person. This is payable in US dollars. The departure tax for domestic flights is US$6, but this is usually included in the cost of the ticket. Getting Around Transport in Siem Reap and Angkor is readily available and comes in various forms, including bicycles, motos (motorbike taxis), minibuses and tuk-tuks. A great way to explore Angkor is on a bicycle, available to rent from bike shops and hotels. The Motorcycle taxis are very common in Siem Reap most comfortable way to travel is by hiring a car, easily arranged through hotels in town. An airconditioned car with driver costs between US$25 and US$50 per day depending on the distance and time. you need to declare if you carry above US$10,000. The most enforced custom regulation is the smuggling of antiquities dating from or before the Angkorian period. payable by credit card. They are emailed to and printed by the applicant. DIRECTORY Embassies Australia 16B National Assembly St, Phnom Penh. Tel (023) 213 470. ∑ cambodia. embassy.gov.au Canada The Embassy in Bangkok also handles Cambodia. ∑ canadainternational. gc.ca/thailand-thailande. United Kingdom 27–29 St. 75, Phnom Penh. Tel (023) 427 124. ∑ gov.uk/government/ world/organisations/ british-embassyphnom-penh United States 1 St 96, Phnom Penh. Tel (023) 728 000. ∑ cambodia. usembassy.gov Vietnam 436 Monivong Blvd, Phnom Penh. Tel (023) 726 274. ∑ vietnamembassycambodia.org/ Airports Phnom Penh International Airport Tel (023) 890 890. ∑ cambodia-airports. aero Siem Reap International Airport Tel (063) 761 261. ∑ cambodia-airports. aero Airlines Air Asia 179 Street Sisowath. Tel (023) 890 035. ∑ AirAsia.com Bangkok Airways 28 29 St, Siem Reap. Tel (063) 965 424. ∑ bangkokair.com Jetstar Siem Reap. Tel (063) 964 388. ∑ jetstar.com Lao Airlines 114, Hwy 6, Siem Reap. Tel (063) 963 169. ∑ laoairlines.com Malaysia Airlines Siem Reap International Airport. Tel (063) 964 135. ∑ malaysiaairlines. com SilkAir Siem Reap International Airport. Tel (063) 964 993. ∑ silkair.com Thai Airways 1F Unit 8A, Regency Complex-A Building, 298 Mao Tse Toung Blvd, Phnom Penh. Tel (023) 214 359. ∑ thaiair.com Vietnam Airlines 342, Hwy 6, Siem Reap. Tel (063) 964 488. ∑ vietnamairlines. com Buses Camboticket ∑ camboticket.com Boat Tours Pandaw Cruises Tel (090) 371 1239 (Ho Chi Minh City). ∑ pandaw.com Tour Companies Diethelm Travel 65 St 240, Phnom Penh. Tel (023) 219 151. ∑diethelmtravel.com Hanuman Tourism 5 Krom 2, Siem Reap. Tel (063) 963 213. ∑hanuman.travel Exotissimo Travel B20-21, St 60m (Spean Neak), Siem Reap. Tel (063) 964 323. ∑exotissimo.com 226-227_EW_VTN.indd 227 14/07/16 4:43 pm Admission Charges and Opening Hours To gain access to the Angkor archaeological complex, visitors need to buy a pass from the booth at the main entrance (open 5am–6pm daily). The ticket ing system here might seem a bit expensive at first glance but offers good value for money, especially because part of the funds go toward the pre ser vation of Angkor’s many historic monuments. Three types of passes are available, each allowing entry into all the monuments in the complex except Phnom Kulen, Koh Ker, and Beng Melea, for which extra charges apply. Choices range from a one-day pass for US$20; a three-day pass for US$40 to be used within one week; and a seven-day pass for US$60 to be used within one month. Children under 12 can enter free on presentation of their passport. A passport-size photograph has to be provided along with the entry fee to create an iden tity pass. You can carry your own picture or have one taken at the admission booth. Passes must be shown at each site. Tourist Information The privately-owned Tourism Information Office in Siem Reap, in a white building on Pokambor Avenue, is not particularly helpful except for making bookings. More useful, and in the same building, is the Khmer Angkor Tour Guide Association, which offers cars Where to Stay Today, the variety of lodgings in Siem Riep is wide, from fivestar luxury such as Raffles Grand Hotel D’Ankor (see p241) to family-run hotels with basic amenities and well-equipped, reasonably priced guesthouses. Where to Eat The assortment and quality of cuisines available in Siem Reap is varied enough to suit all tastes, ranging from Thai, Cambodian, Vietnamese, and Chinese to French, Indian, American, and Italian. There are many reason a bly priced restaurants, especially near Psar Chaa. This area is also full of street food Well decored and bright room in the Victoria Sapa Resort (see p241) for rent, along with licensed English-speaking drivers. The Tourism of Cambodia website is also informative. The quarterly publication Siem Reap Angkor Visitors Guide provides up-to-date travelrelated information to visitors and includes shopping, transport, hotel, and restaurant listings. It is available free online (canbypublications.com/ siemreap/srhome.htm) or at many hotels across town. Orphanage visits in Siem Reap are popular with tourists, but be aware that these often cause more harm than good and can be an outright scam. Visit the information centers or website of the local NGO ConCERT (concertcambodia.org), as well as www.thinkchildsafe.org/ thinkbeforevisiting if you really want to help. Guests enjoying a meal at the Red Piano (see p253), Siem Reap Visitors who have not opted for a pre-booked tour will find plenty of information regarding accommo dation at the airport. Many touts also hover around the airport, but it is wise to exercise caution when dealing with them – scam artists are not rare. Most establishments, even down to the humblest guesthouses, will send a car and driver to meet you at the airport. Another easier and often substantially cheaper option is to book online. Note that room rates usually fluctuate between expensive during peak season from November to March, to very cheap during the low season from May to November. 228 EXCURSION TO ANGKOR Angkor Practical Information After years of much unrest, Cambodia has undergone economic growth and rapid development since the early 1990s. An important part of this process is its tourism in dus try, which has experienced a major boom. The credit for this is largely due to the rich cul tural heritage of Angkor, and the millions of visitors it attracts each year. As a result, the sleepy town of Siem Reap, serving as a gate way to Angkor, has transformed into a bustling tourist town, with lodgings and eateries to suit all pockets. The simple ticket system, easily arranged transport, and new communication facilities have made sightseeing in Angkor a straightforward affair. 228-229_EW_VTN.indd 228 14/07/16 4:43 pm DIRECTORY Personal Health and Security Cambodia is a poor country, and not particularly advanced in healthcare. In almost any serious situation, it makes sense to be evacuated for treatment to nearby Bangkok. However, with proper precautions most visitors have a safe and healthy stay. Drink only bottled water, eat wellcooked food, avoid ice, and be sure to wash your hands before eating. To avoid dehydration, heat exhaustion, and even heatstroke when visiting Angkor, carry bottled mineral water and wear a hat or headscarf. Avoid going out during the hottest part of the day. Malaria is present in parts of Cambodia, including Angkor, and travelers can take a prophylactic. Other risks are dengue fever, hepatitis, and rabies. Ask your doctor about immunization requirements before you travel. STDs and AIDS are also prevalent in Cambodia. Unexploded mines are a serious concern in Siem Reap. Tourists should steer clear of areas off the well-beaten path, and stay close to their guides. Personal security in Angkor can be taken care of by applying common sense. Avoid dark and remote areas, do not wear too much jewelry or revealing clothes in the case of women, and leave valuable items in the hotel safe. Tourist police and guards are stationed at points throughout the complex. Communications Cambodia has good mobile phone coverage. International roaming charges tend to be high but visitors can obtain a SIM for one of the seven local service providers to avoid these. Most phone shops will need to see a passport with a valid visa before issuing a SIM. Wi-Fi is plentiful and affordable, and there are no government restrictions on Internet access. Many hotels, guesthouses and cafés offer free Wi-Fi. For postal and courier services, visitors can head to the main post office in town, or agen cies such as DHL and EMS. Disabled Travelers There are presently virtually no special facilities for disabled travelers anywhere in Angkor. Many of the new luxury hotels, however, are making an effort to become better equipped to meet the needs of those who require special assistance. Banking and Currency The Cambodian currency is the riel, worth approximately 4,000 to the US dollar. Riel notes come in denominations from 50r to 100,000r, though even the latter is worth only around US$25. However, visitors to Angkor infrequently need to use the riel since, for many tourist transactions, the US dollar is the preferred currency. Failing this, the Thai bhat is often acceptable in Siem Reap. Still, it is a good idea to keep some change in riel handy for giving small tips or buying very cheap items. There are several banks in Siem Reap, offering facilities for exchanging currency and cashing traveler’s checks. Banking hours are generally 9am–4pm Monday to Friday. Major credit cards are widely accepted, and can be used to obtain a cash advance from a bank. ATMs, are another source of cash, including US dollars. vendors, serving local fare. Most guesthouses have small cafés, while the larger hotels boast fine restaurants. Most can pack picnic baskets as well if asked. One of the many banks and money exchanges in Siem Reap Visitor Information Khmer Angkor Tour Guide Association Tel 9582 8248. ∑ khmerangkortourguide.com Tourism of Cambodia ∑ tourismcambodia.com Emergency Numbers Fire Siem Reap. Tel (012) 784 464. Tourist Police Opposite the main ticket office for Angkor. Tel (012) 402 424, (012) 969 991. Medical Centers Angkor Hospital for Children PO Box 50, Siem Reap. Tel (063) 963 409. ∑ fwab.org International Dental Clinic 545 National Road 6A, Siem Reap. Tel (063) 767618. ∑ imiclinic.com Royal Angkor International Hospital Hwy 6, Airport Rd, Siem Reap. Tel (063) 761 988. ∑ royalangkorhospital.com Banks ANZ Royal Bank 566–70 Tep Vong St, Siem Reap. Tel (023) 726 900. ∑ anzroyal.com Cambodia Asia Bank At airport and at Angkor Holiday Hotel, cnr Sivutha Blvd & Airport Rd, Siem Reap. Tel (063) 868 222. ∑ cab.com.kh Union Commercial Bank 61, St 130, Siem Reap. Tel (023) 724 931. ∑ ucb.com.kh Courier Services DHL Express 15A Sivatha St, Siem Reap. Tel (063) 964 949. EMS Porkambor St, Phum Mondul 2, Siem Reap. Tel (063) 760 433 ANGKOR SURVIVAL GUIDE 229 228-229_EW_VTN.indd 229 14/07/16 4:43 pm Eyewitness Travel Section openers template (SourceReport v1.1) Date 15th November 2012 Size 125mm x 217mm “UK” LAYER LAYERS PRINTED: 230-231_EW_VTN.indd 230 18/07/14 12:50 PM Travelers’ needs Where to Stay 232–241 Where to Eat and Drink 242–253 Shopping in Vietnam 254–259 Entertainment in Vietnam 260–263 Outdoor Activities and Special Interests 264–267 230-231_EW_VTN.indd 231 18/07/14 12:50 PM 232 T R AV E L E R S’ N E E D S WHERE TO STAY Accommodations in Vietnam run the gamut from historic boutique hotels and plush resorts to basic guesthouses. Luxury hotels are found in all large cities and beaches, while budget lodgings are available throughout the country. Major hotels offer amenities such as swimming pools, gyms, restaurants, and even nightclubs. Resorts, many of which are concentrated along the central coast, also offer ample opportunities for self-indulgence. While budget hotels and guesthouses lack the high-end frills, all but the very cheapest are air-conditioned and have Western-style toilets and hot water. Dormitories are rare and camping almost unheard of, but an alternative is the homestay, where travelers can lodge with a family from the village. Not only does this give you a close-up glimpse into daily life in rural Vietnam, but it often allows you to sample the most delicious and authentic local cuisine. Hotel Grading There is an official system for grading hotels in Vietnam, but the price remains the only indication of luxury or the lack thereof. Typically, establishments charging more than US$100 per night would fall into the four- or five-star category in Europe or the US. Keep in mind that overall prices notwithstanding, the same hotel may demonstrate varying standards across rooms, ranging from opulent suites to motel-style quarters. Also note that there is a distinction between a hotel (khach san) and a guesthouse (nha khach). While the latter can resemble budget hotels, they have fewer amenities. Prices Vietnam offers reasonably priced accommodation options for all. A room in the most upscale resort will not cost anywhere near what it would in most Western countries. In major cities, The plush and elegant interior of the luxurious Caravelle (see p236) The stately façade of the Continental Hotel (see p236), Ho Chi Minh City a room with basic amenities such as a TV and air-conditioning will be available for as little as US$15 a night, and in smaller towns US$8–US$10. Mid-range hotels average between US$40 and US$70, and all the luxury of a high-end hotel can be experienced for US$100 and up. Note that most establishments charge different prices for Vietnamese and foreign tourists; this is especially true in government-owned hotels. Booking Advance booking is advisable for visitors traveling during the high season (see p270), especially at major hotels and resorts. Both Ho Chi Minh City and Hanoi receive a steady stream of business travelers throughout the year, and hotels catering to them may be booked solid at any time of year. While any travel agent can help make reservations, all high-end hotels have websites offering online booking services. A surprising number of budget hotels also provide this facility. Alternatively, contact one of the several reliable accommodation service outfits in operation, such as Hotels in Vietnam, Vietnam Stay, and TNK Travel. All have websites on which they represent a range of hotels, resorts, apartments, and guesthouses. In addition to being efficient and quick, such groups also negotiate with hotels to ensure the best rates. Collection of colorful straw hats in the floating market 232-233_EW_VTN.indd 232 14/07/16 4:43 pm WHERE TO STAY 233 Swimming pool of the Victoria Resort, Can Tho (see p237) Pool table adjoining the lobby lounge at Miss Loi’s Guesthouse (see p236) Checking in When checking in, guests will normally be asked for their passport, which is then kept by the hotel for the duration of their stay. The hotel needs it to report a guest’s presence to the local police. Large establishments in Ho Chi Minh City and Hanoi may simply copy the information and return the passport instead of retaining it for the duration of your stay. If your passport has been sent to an embassy for visa renewal, or if you are uncomfortable leaving it with the hotel, a photocopy is usually acceptable. Luxury Hotels A selection of luxury hotels is available at every major tourist destination in Vietnam. As a result, the country is popular with more than just the backpacking set – it is also a getaway for the rich and famous. Places like Ho Chi Minh City, Hanoi, Nha Trang, and Mui Ne boast multinational chains such as Sheraton, Hilton, Novotel, Sofitel, and Six Senses. The Victoria Hotels and Resorts chain offers luxurious and chic accommodations in beautiful buildings and scenic locations. Business travelers will find a wide array of facilities in most of these hotels, including meeting rooms, conference calls, and Internet services. Virtually every four- and fivestar hotel boasts a spectacular food service, employing skilled international chefs. Their superb restaurants serve gourmet foreign cuisine, including French, Chinese, Japanese, and Italian. Breakfast is an extremely lavish affair, featuring a spread of American, Continental, and Vietnamese fare. In the evenings, a number of high-end hotels are transformed into glamorous venues for Western-style entertainment. Some boast discotheques, and several provide some kind of musical performance in their lounges every night. Resort Hotels Vietnam is no stranger to elegant resort hotels, which were first introduced to the country by leisure-loving French colonists. A few of these charming old quarters, now substantially upgraded and renovated, still remain. The Dalat Palace (see p238) in Dalat, for instance, has been converted into a beautiful holiday getaway. The trend, however, is for the development of modernly outfitted resorts, mostly along the extensive coastline. A couple of the most luxurious are the Nam Hai (see p239) in Hoi An and the Six Senses Hideaway (see p238) in Ninh Hoa. Some resorts do not look very different from any other high-rise hotel, but qualify as resorts on the technicality that they are somewhat isolated from the towns. Particularly affected by tourist-oriented development, both Nha Trang and Phan Thiet have earned reputations as resort towns. Their seaside establishments have all the usual amenities such as a swimming pool, fine restaurants, and, of course, a beautiful, white-sand beach. Most also offer a range of adventure activities, including diving and kiteboarding. A large number of resorts also offer specialized tours and holiday packages. Treks to hill-tribe communities are arranged by Sapa’s local tour guides and operators, while in Hue, the Saigon Morin arranges historic trips down the Perfume River. The Sun Spa Resort (see p239) in Dong Hoi offers free early morning yoga and tai chi classes on the beach. 232-233_EW_VTN.indd 233 14/07/16 4:43 pm The lush poolside gardens of Ancient House (see p239), Hoi An The Majestic hotel (see p236) on Dong Khoi Street, Ho Chi Minh City Guesthouses and Budget Hotels Vietnamese guesthouses generally offer comfortable and clean rooms, with Western toilets, hot water, cable TV, and frequently a refrigerator with a minibar. They are often family-owned and operated. Extra services usually include laundry, breakfast, booking facilities (tours, as well as bus, train, and airplane tickets), luggage storage, bicycle and motorcycle rental, and free Wi-Fi. In cities that have long been on the tourist map, such as Ho Chi Minh City and Nha Trang, budget hotels are often clustered together (like in the Pham Ngu Lao neighborhood of Ho Chi Minh City). A room in a guesthouse or a budget hotel ranges from as little as US$8 in cities like Dalat to US$25 in Ho Chi Minh City. Expect to pay an average of US$10–US$15. A plain room with a fan and no window can be rented for as little as US$6, and a bed and locker in a decent dormitory costs around $5. Homestays Homestays are growing in popularity and are most easily available in parts of the Mekong Delta, such as Vinh Long (see p94), and in the Northern Highlands. This invaluable experience costs upwards of US$15 per night. It is fairly easy to arrange a homestay through a travel agency in Ho Chi Minh City or Hanoi. Innoviet for one, specializes in customized and themed tours, including homestays. Alternatively, contact the local tourist office in the area of interest. Rental Apartments For those staying in one part of Vietnam for more than a few weeks, a serviced apartment or condo can be rented to cut back on costs but still live in luxury. There are not many such operations at present, but they are in demand and more companies may start offering the service. One of the best arrangements in the country is Sedona Suites in Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City, which offers stylish, fully furnished individual suites. A cheaper, if considerably more tiresome, procedure is to go out into the real estate market to rent an apartment. However, this requires a lot of paperwork, and you must register with the local police. It is much easier and cheaper to rent a room in a private home. This allows visitors to experience first-hand the dayto-day life of ordinary people of the country. The best place to find such opportunities are on the bulletin boards of backpacker cafés and restaurants. Registration with the local police is still required when renting a room. Taxes All high-end hotels levy a ten percent tax on the room tariff, plus a five percent service charge. Both amounts are displayed on the bill. In budget operations, the taxes are included in the basic charge, and are not reflected on the bill. Bargaining Every hostelry is open to some kind of bargaining if it is not packed to capacity. It is more difficult to lower the price if booking online or on the phone, but if you arrive in person, the published rate is negotiable. For those planning to stay longer 234 T R AV E L E R S’ N E E D S 234-235_EW_VTN.indd 234 14/07/16 4:43 pm DIRECTORY Booking Hotels in Vietnam 48 Ngo Sy Lien Alley, Hanoi. Map 1 C4. Tel (08) 3500 7222 ∑ hotels-in-vietnam.com TNK Travel 220 De Tham St, Dist. 1, HCMC. Map 2 D5. Tel (08) 3920 5847/4767. ∑ tnktravelvietnam.com Vietnam Stay 91 Ly Nam De St, Hoan Kiem Dist, Hanoi. Map 2 D2. Tel (04) 3747 3482 . ∑ vietnamstay.com Homestays Innoviet 161 Bui Vien St, Dist.1, HCMC. Map 2 D5. Tel (08) 2216 5303. ∑ innoviet.com Rental Apartments Sedona Suites 65 Le Loi Blvd, Dist.1, HCMC. Map 2 E4. Tel (08) 3822 9666. 96 To Ngoc Van St, Hanoi. Tel (04) 3718 0888. ∑ sedonahotels.com.sg Bright and elegant façade of the La Veranda Resort (see p238), Phu Quoc Island Beautiful exterior of the Victoria Sapa (see p241) than a week, or willing to take a less desirable room, the price can drop by as much as 30 percent in a major hotel. Budget hotels will usually oblige by taking a few dollars off, but they do not have as much room to maneuver. Tipping Although tipping was formerly not customary in Vietnam, with the advent of tourism, it is now becoming the norm. There is no need to tip in major hotels as there is already a service charge, but if a staff member proves to be extremely obliging and helpful, a gratuity of US$1 is considered generous. Facilities for Children Although there are virtually no special facilities for kids (see p272), except in top-end hotels, all establishments will welcome them. Most hotels allow children under 12 to share a bed with their parents free of charge. For a small fee, parents can rent an extra bed or cot in any decent hotel. Even the more basic establishments will receive children with open arms, and go all out to ensure that they have a comfortable stay. Virtually any hotel, big or small, grand or cheap, would be willing to arrange for an experienced babysitter to watch children for a reasonable fee. Facilities for Disabled Travelers Unfortunately, most hotels in Vietnam provide limited facilities for the disabled (see p272). While the major and newest luxury properties do have wheelchair ramps, elevators, and other special facilities, such considerations are almost nonexistent in lesser establishments. Most hotels will be glad to help a guest hire an attendant, although he or she is unlikely to possess any particular qualifications. Recommended Hotels The establishments listed on the following pages have been carefully selected as the best in the country in their respective categories: luxury, historic, boutique, resort, budget, and hostel. These categories reflect the growing variety of accommodations available in Vietnam, a country that had no significant tourist industry until the 1990s. These days Vietnam is making up for lost time, and many international chains are opening up new properties in major tourist towns. The criteria for selection include not only major considerations such as range of facilities, value for money, convenience of location, and level of service, but also small but important points such as whether the staff has sufficient command of English to be able to help guests with any difficulties they face. Those places that excel in several aspects have been selected as DK Choice, and they have more detailed descriptions to explain their particular merits. WHERE TO STAY 235 234-235_EW_VTN.indd 235 14/07/16 4:44 pm 236 T R AV E L E R S’ N E E D S Where to Stay Ho Chi Minh City Cholon Hotel Equatorial $$ Luxury Map 4 F3 242 Tran Binh Trong Tel (08) 3839 7777 ∑ equatorial.com/hcm This exclusive high-rise hotel to the west of the city center has superb restaurants, including The Orientica. Windsor Plaza $$ Luxury Map 4 F4 18 An Duong Vuong Tel (08) 3833 6688 ∑ windsorplazahotel.com Rooms on the top floors of this towering hotel have expansive views. The buffet at Café Central is not to be missed. District 1 An An 1 $ Value Map 2 D5 40 Bui Vien St Tel (08) 3837 8088 ∑ anan.vn Good-sized rooms are equipped with computers and free Wi-Fi in this centrally located hotel. Bali Boutique Hotel $ Value Map 2 D5 82 Bui Vien St Tel (08) 3920 9804 ∑ baliboutiquehotel.vn Well-located for those wanting to be at the center of the action; the rooms are decent, though the cheaper ones are windowless. Diep Anh Guest House $ Value Map 2 D5 241/31 Pham Ngu Lao Tel (08) 3836 7920 Homey en-suite rooms are offered at this family-run guesthouse in a central location. Dong Do $ Value Map 2 F4 35 Mac Thi Buoi St Tel (08) 3827 3637 ∑ dungdohotel.com This is one of the cheaper places near Dong Khoi, but it has all the basic amenities. DK Choice Madam Cuc $ Value Map 2 D5 64 Bui Vien Tel (08) 3836 5073 ∑ madamcuchotels.com Madam Cuc has a simple formula – treat all guests like family. It works so well that she now has several branches in the district, of which this is the most conveniently located. Rooms are simple but spotlessly clean, and breakfast, tea, and snacks are included. Free Wi-Fi. Miss Loi’s Guesthouse $ Value Map 2 E5 178/20 Co Giang Tel (08) 3837 9589 South of District 1, on a narrow lane, Miss Loi’s has simple rooms and great staff. Breakfast included. Spring $ Value Map 2 F3 44–46 Le Thanh Ton Tel (08) 3829 7362 ∑ springhotelvietnam.com Comfortable, carpeted rooms at reasonable prices make this one of the best deals in town. Continental $$ Historic Map 2 F3 132–134 Dong Khoi Tel (08) 3829 9201 ∑ continentalvietnam.com The grand old dame of Saigon hotels features high-ceilinged rooms and a colonial aura. Price Guide Prices are based on one night’s stay in high season for a standard double room, inclusive of service charges and taxes. $ up to $50 $$ $50–$150 $$$ over $150 Lavender $$ Boutique Map 2 E4 208–210 Le Thanh Ton Tel (08) 2222 8888 ∑ lavenderhotel.com.vn Near the Ben Thanh Market, Lavender has smartly furnished rooms and good service. Majestic $$ Historic Map 2 F4 1 Dong Khoi Tel (08) 3829 5517 ∑ majesticsaigon.com.vn This lovely colonial riverside hotel has Art-Deco interiors and six restaurants and bars. No smoking. Rex $$ Historic Map 2 E4 141 Nguyen Hue Blvd Tel (08) 3829 2185 ∑ rexhotelvietnam.com Famed for its rooftop bar, this grand hotel offers plush rooms and suites in three different wings. DK Choice Caravelle $$$ Luxury Map 2 F3 19–23 Lam Son Square Tel (08) 3823 4999 ∑ caravellehotel.com Considered one of the best hotels in Saigon, Caravelle offers well-appointed deluxe rooms, signature rooms, and suites. It is ideally located near the shops in Dong Khoi. The facilities are superb, including a spa and pool, and service is top-notch. Catina $$$ Luxury Map 2 F4 109 Dong Khoi Tel (08) 3829 6296 ∑ hotelcatina.com.vn Near the Notre Dame Cathedral, with small but stylish rooms. The cheapest ones are windowless. Grand $$$ Luxury Map 2 F4 8 Dong Khoi Tel (08) 3915 5555 ∑ grandhotel.vn An expanded and refurbished colonial gem. The rooms are quite plush and there are a lot Brightly lit swimming pool of the elegant Caravelle hotel of peaceful corners. 236-241_EW_VTN.indd 236 14/07/16 4:38 pm WHERE TO STAY 237 Hotel Nikko Saigon $$$ Luxury Map 2 D5 235 Nguyen Van Cu Tel (08) 3925 7777 ∑ hotelnikkosaigon.com Upmarket option featuring large rooms with minimalist design and a range of dining options. Park Hyatt $$$ Luxury Map 2 E3 2 Lam Son Square Tel (08) 3824 1234 ∑ saigon.park.hyatt.com Located by the Opera House, Park Hyatt has superb dining and one of the best spas in town. Tan Binh District Park Royal $$ Modern Map 1 A1 309B Nguyen Van Troi St Tel (08) 3842 1111 ∑ parkroyalhotels.com A well-equipped alternative to the previous Novotel Garden Plaza, minutes from the airport. Around Ho Chi Minh City LONG HAI: Thuy Duong Resort $$ Resort Map C6 Phuoc Hai Town Tel (064) 388 6215 ∑ thuyduongresort.com.vn Affordable resort fronting a softsand beach shaded by casuarina trees. Rooms and villas are much cheaper when booked online. LONG HAI: Alma Oasis Long Hai $$$ Resort Map C6 44A Long Hai, Ba Ria Tel (064) 386 2222 ∑ almaoasislonghai.com Once a villa belonging to the emperor, this award-winning resort is a truly special getaway. DK Choice VUNG TAU: Binh An Village $$ Resort Map C6 1 Tran Phu St Tel (064) 351 0016 ∑ binhanvillage.com This lovely resort has just ten traditional villas built around massive wood columns and furnished in a blend of ancient and modern styles. All suites and some rooms have outdoor living rooms looking out to a garden. The superb restaurant overlooks the ocean. VUNG TAU: Palace Hotel $$ Modern Map C6 1 Nguyen Trai St Tel (064) 385 6411 ∑ palacehotel.com.vn This reliable high-rise hotel has good-sized carpeted rooms with flatscreen TVs and mood lighting. VUNG TAU: Lotus Resort $$$ Resort Map C6 165C Thuy Van Tel (064) 352 3460 ∑ lotusvungtauresort.com A luxury beach resort, this has a pool and tennis court and its own, much cheaper campsite nearby. Mekong Delta and Southern Vietnam BAC LIEU: Bac Lieu Hotel $$ Modern Map B6 4–6 Hoang Van Thu St Tel (0781) 395 9697 ∑ baclieuhotel.com It may be more attractive on the outside than within, but the rather plain rooms are comfortable. Massage and sauna are available. BEN TRE: Hung Vuong $ Value Map B6 148 Hung Vuong Tel (075) 382 2408 ∑ hungvuonghotelbentre.vn Conveniently located near the center of town, the Hung Vuong is good value for money. Ask for a river-view room. CAN THO: Saigon Can Tho $ Modern Map B6 55 Phan Dinh Phung Tel (0710) 382 5831 ∑ saigoncantho.com.vn This reliable business hotel has nice rooms, a good range of facilities, and attentive staff. CAN THO: Tay Ho $ Value Map B6 42 Hai Ba Trung St Tel (0710) 382 3392 ∑ tayhohotel.com A well-located establishment with helpful owners. Ask for a room with a view of the river. CAN THO: Victoria Can Tho $$$ Resort Map B6 Cai Khe Ward Tel (0710) 381 0111 ∑ victoriahotels-asia.com Colonial-style elegance rules at this hotel, situated on its own peninsula just north of town. CHAU DOC: Song Sao $ Value Map B6 12 Nguyen Huu Canh St Tel (076) 356 1776 A high-rise with comfortable rooms, welcoming staff, and a central location. Free Wi-Fi. CHAU DOC: Chau Pho $$ Modern Map B6 88 Trung Nu Vuong St Tel (076) 356 4139 ∑ chauphohotel.com Probably one of Chau Doc’s classiest hotels, with bright, spacious rooms and efficient service. CHAU DOC: Victoria Chau Doc $$$ Resort Map B6 32 Le Loi Tel (076) 386 5010 ∑ victoriahotels.asia The town’s only five-star resort offers spacious rooms with great balcony views of the river. CON DAO ISLAND: Saigon Con Dao Resort $$ Resort Map B6 18–24 Ton Duc Thang Tel (064) 383 0336 ∑ saigoncondao.com This is the next best option on Con Dao for those who do not want to splurge on the Six Senses. CON DAO ISLAND: Six Senses Hideaway $$$ Resort Map B6 Dat Doc Beach Tel (064) 383 1222 ∑ sixsenses.com On its private beach, the superluxurious Six Senses has stylish villas, each with its own butler. MY THO: Chuong Duong $ Value Map B6 10 Thang 30/4 St Tel (073) 387 0875 The rooms here are quite comfortable, with river-view balconies. The hotel also has one of the best restaurants in town. For more information on types of hotels see pages 232–5 A comfortable room in the Victoria Chau Doc Hotel 236-241_EW_VTN.indd 237 14/07/16 4:38 pm 238 T R AV E L E R S’ N E E D S PHU QUOC ISLAND: Beach Club $ Value Map A6 Tran Hung Dao St, Long Beach Tel (077) 398 0998 ∑ beachclubvietnam.com These fairly remote beachfront bungalows with simple rooms are clustered around a restaurant. PHU QUOC ISLAND: Saigon Phu Quoc Resort $$ Resort Map A6 62 Tran Hung Dao St Tel (077) 384 6999 ∑ sgphuquocresort.com.vn At the north end of Long Beach, this fancy resort has a spa, pool, and lots of watersports. DK Choice PHU QUOC ISLAND: La Veranda $$$ Resort Map A6 Hung Dao St, Long Beach Tel (077) 398 2988 ∑ laverandaresorts.com Occupying a French-Colonialstyle building in the middle of Long Beach, this is one of the most luxurious resorts on Phu Quoc. Facilities include a spa, a pool, and a restaurant, Pepper Tree, on the upstairs terrace. SOC TRANG: Phong Lan I $ Value Map B6 136 Dong Khoi Tel (079) 382 1619 A simple riverside hotel with basic rooms in the center of Soc Trang, opposite a local market. TRA VINH: Cuu Long $ Value Map B6 999 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai Tel (074) 386 2615 Just outside the town center, Cuu Long is a little worn but has helpful staff and dependable food. VINH LONG: Phuong Hoang $ Value Map B6 2H Hung Vuong Tel (070) 382 5185 A centrally located and typically Vietnamese budget hotel, this is better than most other options. South Central Vietnam BUON MA THUOT: Dam San Hotel $ Value Map C5 212 Nguyen Cong Tru St Tel (500) 385 1234 ∑ www.damsanhotel.com.vn Comfortable, with spacious, carpeted rooms and great views. DK Choice DALAT: Dreams $ Value Map C5 151 Phan Dinh Phung Tel (063) 383 3748 ∑ dreamshoteldalat.com So popular that it is almost always full; book ahead. The hotel also provides generous breakfasts, free use of computers, and 24-hour room service. A branch just up the road features Jacuzzis in some rooms. DALAT: Hotel du Parc $$ Boutique Map C5 7 Tran Phu Tel (063) 382 5777 ∑ dalatresorts.com This refurbished Colonial building in the center of town offers all facilities and a classy atmosphere. DALAT: Dalat Palace $$$ Luxury Map C5 12 Tran Phu Tel (063) 382 5444 ∑ dalatresorts.com Dalat’s top hotel features sumptuously furnished rooms and elegant common areas. KONTUM: Indochine $ Value Map C4 30 Bach Dang St Tel (060) 386 3335 ∑ indochinehotel.vn The well-equipped rooms enjoy great river views at this eightstory monolith. MUI NE: Mui Ne Backpackers $ Value Map C6 88 Nguyen Dinh Chieu Tel (062) 384 7047 ∑ muinebackpackers.com This popular spot offers dorms and private rooms. Free Wi-Fi. MUI NE: Coco Beach $$ Resort Map C6 58 Nguyen Dinh Chieu Tel (062) 384 7111 ∑ cocobeach.net Mui Ne’s original resort, and one of the best, has stylish stilted bungalows in a coconut grove. MUI NE: Mia Resort $$$ Resort Map C6 24 Nguyen Dinh Chieu St Tel (062) 384 7440 ∑ miamuine.com An exclusive boutique resort with luxurious thatched huts set in a lush tropical garden. NHA TRANG: La Suisse $ Value Map C5 34 Tran Quang Khai St Tel (058) 352 4353 ∑ lasuissehotel.com The best budget option in Nha Trang, a stroll from the beach. Some rooms have balconies. NHA TRANG: Nha Trang Lodge $$ Modern Map C5 42 Tran Phu Tel (058) 352 1500 ∑ nhatranglodge.com This decent hotel in the middle of the beachfront promenade has good-sized rooms. NHA TRANG: Sheraton $$$ Luxury Map C5 26 Tran Phu St Tel (058) 388 0000 ∑ sheratonnhatrang.com Right on Nha Trang’s beachfront, the Sheraton has ten types of rooms and extensive facilities. NINH HOA: Six Senses Hideaway $$$ Resort Map C5 Ninh Van Bay Tel (058) 352 4268 ∑ sixsenses.com Set on its own private island, this retreat offers an experience filled with every imaginable luxury. PHAN RANG: Ho Phong $ Value Map C5 363 Ngo Gia Tu Tel (068) 392 0333 Few tourists stay overnight in Phan Rang, but this is the best option for those who do decide to. PHAN THIET: Ocean Dunes Resort $$ Resort Map C6 1A Ton Duc Thang St Tel (062) 382 2393 ∑ oceandunesresort.com.vn Well-equipped for those with kids, this serene getaway is near Mui Ne, yet away from the crowds. For key to prices see page 236 Tables at the open dining space of La Veranda resort, Phuc Quoc Island 236-241_EW_VTN.indd 238 11/08/2016 14:54 WHERE TO STAY 239 QUANG NGAI: My Khe Resort $ Resort Map C4 Tinh Khe Commune Tel (055) 384 3316 ∑ mykheresort.com.vn A beach resort just 9 miles (15 km) from the city; short on amenities, but the rooms are great value. QUY NHON: Avani Resort & Spa $$$ Resort Map C5 Ghenh Rang, Bai Dai Beach Tel (056) 384 0132 ∑ avanihotels.com This beautifully designed resort on a gorgeous beach offers complimentary wellness classes. Central Vietnam CHINA BEACH: Fusion Maia Da Nang $$$ Resort Map C4 Vo Nguyen Giap St, Danang Tel (0511) 396 7999 ∑ fusionmaiadanang.com An all-inclusive spa resort; all rooms have a private pool and “fusionistas” attend to guests’ well-being. DANANG: Sun River $$ Value Map C4 132–136 Bach Dang Tel (0511) 384 9188 ∑ sunriverhoteldn.com.vn In a glass-fronted high-rise, this hotel offers fine river views and excellent service. DK Choice DANANG: Intercontinental Danang Sun Resort $$$ Resort Map C4 Bai Bac, Son Tra Peninsula Tel (0511) 393 8888 ∑ danang.intercontinental.com This stunning, Bill Bensleydesigned resort sits on a lush peninsula north of Danang. The luxurious rooms have fabulous views, and the restaurants and spa are superb. DONG HOI: Sun Spa Resort $$ Resort Map B3 My Canh, Bao Ninh Tel (052) 384 2999 ∑ sunsparesortvietnam.com A good base for tours to Phong Nha-Ke Bang National Park, this resort in a lovely setting has bright rooms and extensive amenities. HOI AN: Cua Dai Hotel $ Resort Map C4 54A Cua Dai Tel (0510) 386 2231 ∑ hotelduadai-hoian.com Located between the town and Cua Dai Beach, this small, friendly place is a convenient choice. HOI AN: Ancient House $$ Resort Map C4 377 Cua Dai Tel (0510) 392 3377 ∑ ancienthouseresort.com This family-run resort is set in extensive grounds, and includes a 200-year-old house. HOI AN: Victoria Hoi An $$ Resort Map C4 Cua Dai Beach Tel (0510) 392 7040 ∑ victoriahotels.asia A characterful resort designed like a traditional fishing village with an outdoor pool. You can explore the area with a retro motorbike and sidecar. HOI AN: Nam Hai $$$ Resort Map C4 Hamlet 1, Dien Duong Village Tel (0510) 394 0000 ∑ ghmhotels.com One of Vietnam’s top resorts, Nam Hai is set on an idyllic strip of beach and features gorgeous pool villas. HUE: Hue Nino $ Value Map C3 14 Nguyen Cong Tru Tel (054) 625 2171 ∑ hueninohotel.com The rooms have antique Vietnamese furnishings; service is friendly and rates rock-bottom. HUE: La Residence Hotel & Spa $$$ Luxury Map C3 5 Le Loi Tel (054) 383 7475 ∑ la-residence-hue.com One of Hue’s top hotels features stylish artwork on the walls and tastefully decorated rooms. HUE: Saigon Morin $$$ Luxury Map C3 30 Le Loi Tel (054)382 3526 ∑ morinhotel.com.vn For over a century, this landmark lodging has been taking care of travelers with its top facilities. LANG CO BEACH: Lang Co Beach Resort $$ Value Map C3 Lang Co Town Tel (054) 387 3555 ∑ langcobeachresort.com.vn Located on one of the country’s best beaches, and with a number of facilities, this is a great place for a restful escape. VINH: Saigon Kim Lien $$ Modern Map B2 25 Quang Trung Tel (038) 383 8899 ∑ saigonkimlien.com.vn In the center of Vinh, this goodvalue government-run hotel boasts a small swimming pool and a tourism information desk. Hanoi French Quarter De Syloia $$ Boutique Map 2 F5 17A Tran Hung Dao Tel (04) 3824 5346 ∑ desyloia.com A good choice in the French Quarter, De Syloia has wellequipped rooms, personal service, and is in a convenient location. Melia $$ Luxury Map 2 E4 44B Ly Thuong Kiet Tel (04) 3934 3343 ∑ melia.com The Melia stands out for its elegantly designed rooms, comprehensive facilities, and efficient service. Movenpick $$ Modern Map 2 D4 83A Ly Thuong Kiet Tel (04) 3822 2800 ∑ movenpick.com A business hotel with plush rooms and lots of facilities. An unusual feature is a female-only floor. For more information on types of hotels see pages 232–5 The elegant dining area in the glass-fronted Sun River hotel, Danang 236-241_EW_VTN.indd 239 14/07/16 4:38 pm 240 T R AV E L E R S’ N E E D S Zéphyr $$ Modern Map 2 E4 4 Ba Trieu Tel (04) 3934 1256 ∑ zephyrhotel.com.vn This small comfortable hotel near Hoan Kiem Lake has spacious, carpeted rooms; excellent value. Hilton Hanoi Opera $$$ Luxury Map 2 F5 1 Le Thanh Tong Tel (04) 3933 0500 ∑hilton.com A cut above the average Hilton, this has Vietnamese furnishings and decor, plus excellent service. Sofitel Legend Metropole $$$ Luxury Map 2 F4 15 Ngo Quyen Tel (04) 3826 6919 ∑ sofitel.com You’ll find sound-proof rooms with huge bathtubs in this beautifully restored colonial building. Old Quarter Classic Street $ Value Map 2 E3 41 Hang Be Tel (04) 3825 2421 ∑ classicstreet-phocohotel.com Rooms at this hotel in a great location are surprisingly stylish for the budget prices. Friendly staff. Hanoi Backpackers Hostel $ Hostel Map 2 E2 9 Ma May Tel (04) 3935 1891 ∑ vietnambackpackerhostels.com The most centrally located hostel of this empire offers smart dorms and doubles, plus regular parties. Hanoi Guest House $ Value Map 2 E2 85 Ma May Tel (04) 3935 2571 ∑ hanoiguesthouse.com Even the honeymoon suite is less than $50 at this simple but cozy guesthouse with welcoming staff. Hanoi Moment $ Modern Map 2 D2 42 Hang Cot Tel (04) 3927 6999 ∑ hanoimomenthotel.com Fashionable rooms in black and white have wood floors, double glazing, and mood lighting. Win $ Value Map 2 E3 34 Hang Hanh Tel (04) 3826 7150 ∑ winhotel.com.vn Located on a quiet lane in the noisy Old Quarter, Win has wellequipped rooms and helpful staff. DK Choice Garden Queen $$ Boutique Map 2 E3 65 Hang Bac Tel (04) 3826 0860 ∑ queentravel.vn This characterful place, which has been lovingly designed by its owner, offers atmospheric rooms equipped with traditional furnishings. All rooms have wooden floors and extras include DVD players. This boutique property is also the base office for Queen Travel, a reputable tour operator. Hong Ngoc Tonkin $$ Value Map 2 E3 14 Luong Van Can Tel (04) 3826 7566 ∑ hongngochotels.com The prices may be slightly higher than at most other budget places, but the furnishings are smarter. La Suite $$ Modern Map 2 E2 52 Ma May Tel (04) 3926 4921 ∑ hanoilasuitehotel.com Centrally located, La Suite has good-value family rooms, though the cheapest have no windows. Guests enjoy a complimentary fruit basket. There is an on-site spa. Oriental Central $$ Modern Map 2 E3 39 Hang Bac Tel (04) 3935 1117 ∑ orientalcentralhotel.com This hotel offers compact but bright and stylish rooms right in the heart of the Old Quarter. West of Hoan Kiem Lake Church Boutique $$ Boutique Map 2 E3 9 Nha Tho Tel (04) 3928 9955 ∑ churchhotel.com.vn The original of a small chain offers classic comfort in a great location in the shopping district. Sofitel Plaza $$ Luxury 1 Thanh Nien Tel (04) 3823 8888 ∑ sofitel.com A towering high-rise on the shores of West Lake offering panoramic views and lots of dining options. Nikko Hanoi $$$ Luxury Map 1 C5 84 Tran Nhan Tong Tel (04) 3822 3535 ∑ hotelnikkohanoi.com.vn This business hotel has a nice spa and a great Japanese restaurant. Sheraton Hanoi $$$ Luxury K5 Nghi Tam, 11 Xuan Dieu Tel (04) 3719 9000 ∑ sheraton.com/hanoi Find the usual excellent Sheraton facilities in a lovely location on the shores of West Lake. Northern Vietnam BA BE NATIONAL PARK: Ba Be National Park Guesthouse $ Value Map B1 National Park Headquarters, Ba Be Tel (0281) 389 4026 A great place to stay if visiting this national park, with smart rooms, a restaurant and a tour desk. BAC HA: Sao Mai $ Value Map A1 Ban Pho Tel (020) 382 2083 ∑ saomaitours.com A good bet for visitors to the Sunday market, with a range of rooms in three buildings. CAO BANG: Hoang Anh $ Value Map B1 131 Kim Dong Tel (026) 385 8969 The best of a poor bunch in this remote town, with spacious rooms that have river views. CAT BA ISLAND: Holiday View $$ Modern Map C1 1 Thang 4 St Tel (031) 388 7200 ∑ holidayviewhotel-catba.com A typical high-rise hotel but, true to its name, it does have good Bright room with a comfortable bed in the Nikko Hanoi hotel For key to prices see page 236 236-241_EW_VTN.indd 240 14/07/16 4:38 pm WHERE TO STAY 241 views of the bay. Efficient staff, restaurant and massage facility. DIEN BIEN PHU: Muong Thanh $$ Modern Map A1 514, 7 Thang 5 Tel (0230) 381 0043 ∑ muongthanh.vn This is the best choice in town, with a good restaurant, pool, and helpful service. HAIPHONG: Harbour View $$$ Luxury Map B1 124 Tran Phu Tel (031) 382 7827 ∑ avanihotels.com/haiphong There are no harbour views here, but the rooms are classy, service is excellent and the restaurant good. HALONG CITY: Novotel Halong Bay $$ Modern Map C1 Halong Road, Bai Chay Tel (033) 384 8108 ∑ novotelhalongbay.com Enjoy Novotel comforts here: wellequipped rooms, comfy common areas, and warm service. HALONG CITY: Indochina Sails $$$ Luxury Map C1 27 A6 Dam Trau, Hanoi Tel (04) 3984 2362 ∑ indochinasails.com The best way to experience Halong Bay is from the deck of this luxurious junk. MAI CHAU VALLEY: Mai Chau Lodge $$$ Luxury Map B2 Mai Chau Town Tel (0218) 386 8959 ∑ maichaulodge.com Swimming, kayaking, cycling and rock-climbing are all offered at this pricey option in Mai Chau. NINH BINH: Emeralda Resort $$$ Luxury Map B2 Van Long Reserve, Gia Van Commune, Gia Vien District Tel (030) 365 8333 ∑ emeraldaresort.com Huge rooms, comfortable beds, and mountain views are on offer at this lovely resort with a spa and several dining options. SAPA: Hmong Sapa $$ Boutique Map A1 10 Thach Bac Tel (020) 377 2228 ∑ hmongsapahotel.com The rooms are tastefully designed and decorated, and there’s a dining terrace that offers fabulous mountain views. DK Choice SAPA: Victoria Sapa $$$ Resort Map A1 Xuan Vien Tel (020) 387 1522 ∑ victoriahotel.asia Sitting at the top end of town, this Alpine-looking resort is Sapa’s best lodgings. It offers pleasant rooms, great views, and tours of the region. It even has its own luxury train to transport guests here from Hanoi. SON LA: Trade Union Hotel $ Value Map A1 4, 26 Thang 8 Tel (022) 385 2804 Friendly, helpful staff man this basic but pleasant hotel, which is a good base for touring the region. Angkor SIEM REAP: Earthwalkers $ Hostel Map A5 Sala Kanseng Village, Sangkat No. 2 Tel (012) 967 901 ∑ earthwalkers.co This great-value, Norwegian-run hostel has dorm beds, doubles, and family rooms. SIEM REAP: Ei8ht Rooms $ Value Map A5 138–139 Streoung Thamey Village, Svydangkum Commune Tel (063) 969 788 A classic travelers’ haunt; the rooms, with traditional Khmer decor, have air-con and cable TV. SIEM REAP: Rosy’s Guesthouse $ Value Map A5 74 Phum Slor Kram Tel (063) 965 059 ∑ rosyguesthouse.com Run by a Western couple, this lovely old villa has simple, wellequipped rooms and hammocks. SIEM REAP: Two Dragons Guesthouse $ Value Map A5 110 Wat Bo Village Tel (063) 965 107 ∑ twodragons-asia.com This well-established guesthouse has spartan rooms but a friendly vibe. It offers great travel advice. SIEM REAP: Mysteres d’Angkor $$ Boutique Map A5 235 Slorkram Village Tel (063) 963 639 ∑ mysteres-angkor.com A French-run hotel with colonialstyle rooms, private terraces and a pool set in a lush garden. DK Choice SIEM REAP: Raffles Grand Hotel d’Angkor $$$ Luxury Map A5 1 Charles de Gaulle St, Khum Svay Dang tum Tel (063) 963 888 ∑ raffles.com One of the best places to stay while visiting the Angkor Complex, this colonial builiding exudes sophistication. Rooms are lavishly furnished and equipped with every facility. SIEM REAP: La Residence d’Angkor $$$ Luxury Map A5 River Rd Tel (063) 963 390 ∑ residencedangkor.com The rooms and suites are set in a large tropical garden, with a spa, pool, and fitness center. SIEM REAP: Shinta Mani $$$ Luxury Map A5 Junction of Oum Khun and 14th sts Tel (063) 761 998 ∑ shintamani.com The superb rooms, located around a pool, each have original artworks at this upscale hotel. For more information on types of hotels see pages 232– 5 Well-decorated and comfortable sitting area of the Victoria Sapa 236-241_EW_VTN.indd 241 14/07/16 4:38 pm 242 T R AV E L E R S’ N E E D S The Vietnamese are passionate about food, which means that fresh ingredients and experienced cooks are bountiful. Whether opting for a quick bite or a full meal, visitors will find an amazing variety of eateries throughout the country, from pushcarts, roadside stalls, and sidewalk cafés to pizzerias and gourmet restaurants. Washing down tasty treats is easy as well, with hot tea or cold beer never too far away. The best news is that the prices are extremely reasonable, as the country’s eclectic and innovative culinary repertoire offers a range of delicious options to suit every budget. Increasingly, this also includes Western-style fast food, and there are plenty of Italian, American, and Indian restaurants now located in big cities and towns. The most reliable places to find well-prepared international food are high-end restaurants catering to foreign tourists and expats, while roadside stalls serving tasty Vietnamese fare provide a memorable cultural experience. WHERE TO EAT AND DRINK Restaurants Eateries with trained waiters, printed menus, and starched napkins are found mainly in the major cities, as well as in big hotels and resorts. Sit-down restaurants that offer Vietnamese food often specialize in a particular type of dish. One of the most common is bun thit nuong, where grilled, marinated meat (most commonly beef or pork) is served on a bed of rice noodles, fresh herbs, and pickled vegetables, with a sweet and spicy fish-sauce broth. Banh xeo is a flavorful rice or cornflour pancake stuffed with pork, seafood, and beansprouts, and served with a sweet and sour fishsauce broth. Lau, often translated as ‘steamboat’ or ‘hotpot,’ is a fragrant broth that is placed on a stove in the center of the table. It is eaten communally, and diners can add a selection of vegetables, herbs, noodles, and meat according to taste. Chinese restaurants are also common, while Vietnam’s surfeit of cafés ensures that freshly baked baguettes, hot coffees, and fruit juices are never far away. American-style diners, pizzerias, and fast-food chains such as KFC have emerged in Hanoi, Ho Chi Minh City, and major tourist destinations, and some major hotels and restaurants offer European haute cuisine. Com and Pho A restaurant that serves an ample portion of rice along with meat and vegetables is called a quan com (com is the Vietnamese word for rice). It is usually a humble affair, often seating as few as half a dozen people. The food is displayed in a glass case at the front, and one need only point to what Terrace overlooking the Hoan Kiem Lake at Thuy Ta café (see p252), Hanoi appeals. Meats, either grilled, braised, or stewed, and fish in some kind of sauce are common, as are braised bamboo shoots, grilled eggplant, fried greens, and tofu preparations. Vietnam’s national noodlesoup breakfast dish, pho (see p244) often features in small, family-run eateries. It is typically served with beef or chicken, and has an unmistakable star anise aroma. Fresh herbs and a variety of condiments are added according to taste. Street Food Vietnam has a long and rich tradition of street food. Vendors in all cities and towns patrol the streets with baskets of delicious snack foods such as tamarind pods, pastries, baguette sandwiches, sticky rice, or fresh fruits. Some cooks carry savory or sweet treats wrapped in banana leaves, which are then steamed or roasted. Pushcarts can carry entire kitchens, typically offering pho, fried noodles, tofu preparations, and chao – a rice porridge also known as congee. The best part is that the food is cooked in front of customers. Some vendors carry their food in a yoke slung across their shoulder. They may offer anything from dry snack foods to fresh fruits and vegetables, while some even carry a small stove with which to prepare a hot meal on the spot. 242-243_EW_VTN.indd 242 14/07/16 4:38 pm WHERE TO EAT AND DRINK 243 Tables on the veranda at the Red Bridge restaurant (see p250), Hoi An The brightly lit interior of Bassac (see p248) in Chau Doc Beer Gardens and Bia Hoi Bars Especially plentiful in the south, where the weather never turns cold, beer gardens are always promoting one beer or another, and the brand can change every week. They usually sell snacks to accompany the beer, such as make-your-own spring rolls, which are accompanied by piquant dipping sauces. Fresh beer or bia hoi is a specialty of Hanoi. Although it can be found throughout the country, this refreshing drink is free of preservatives and costs only pennies per glass. Bars serving bia hoi are usually simple, hole-in-the-wall places, visited mostly by local men. Foreign visitors are welcome as long as they don’t mind squatting on tiny stools. These joints can be an insightful way to experience the country’s bar culture. Vegetarian Options There are very few exclusively vegetarian restaurants in the country, but those wishing to avoid red meat will find it easy to do so. A wide selection of fish, poultry, and vegetables is always available in every restaurant. However, vegans and strict vegetarians should be aware that nuoc mam, the muchbeloved fermented fish sauce, finds its way into most meals. While most restaurateurs are aware of vegetarian practice, and willing to make accommodations, it is nevertheless necessary for vegetarians to be vocal and specific about their dietary needs and requirements. Prices Food will probably be the least expensive item on the budget of any visitor to Vietnam. Even a full meal in a hotel can cost less than US$15 per head, though imported alcohol can easily quadruple the price. Taxes on wine can be ruinous, but imported spirits are more manageable, and local beer is quite reasonable. Budget travelers eschewing alcohol, and dining largely in smaller eateries or on street food can eat fairly lavishly for as little as US$6 a day. Eating Customs Unlike at the Western table, meals in Vietnam are not served in a succession of courses. Dishes are brought to the table as they are ready. The usual practice is to order one different dish per person, plus one for the table. Diners then proceed to sample the dishes liberally, relishing the sharing as much as the food. Table manners (see p273) are simple to follow. Feel free to slurp the noodles and throw the fish and meat bones on the floor. Enthusiastic dining and loud conversations are the norm. Tipping While tipping has not always been customary in Vietnam, it has become common in better restaurants and backpacker areas with the advent of modern tourism. If the service is good, a 10 percent tip is appreciated. Do not tip if the service is poor. In upscale hotels and restaurants, a five percent charge is usually levied. However, patrons may wish to offer a small tip in addition to that small fee. Recommended Restaurants The restaurants on the following pages have been carefully selected to give a cross-section of options from across the country – not only is there plenty of Vietnamese fare, with regional variations such as Hue Imperial cuisine, but there are also Japanese,Thai, Chinese, Indian, French, Italian and Mexican options. In fact, in tourist areas these different cuisines are sometimes listed on a single menu. Some of the more innovative places serve fusion dishes that combine ingredients and techniques from various cuisines, such as Vietnamese and French. Besides the quality of the food, these recommendations take into account the ambience and level of service. However, since taste is more important than presentation for most Vietnamese diners, many of the places listed here lack the kind of sophisticated ambience sought after by restaurants in the West. Those eateries that are particularly worth seeking out either for their culinary excellence or their memorable atmosphere are described in more detail as a DK Choice. 242-243_EW_VTN.indd 243 14/07/16 4:38 pm Flavors of Vietnam Over the course of history Vietnam has absorbed many culinary influences but has still managed to preserve its own distinct cuisine. The long period of Chinese domination left its mark on Vietnamese cooking, not least in the use of chopsticks, soy sauce, and bean curd. Western tastes were also imported during French colonial rule, notably coffee, bread, and dairy products. In the south, Indian, Khmer, and Thai influences are apparent in a cuisine that features coconut and aromatic curries. 244 T r a V e l e r s’ n e e d s Pho This classic dish combines white noodles, slices of beef, and spring onions in a rich broth. Woman preparing food at a market stall in Hoi An A selection of tropical fruit found throughout southeast Asia Limes Bananas Rambutans Durian Mangosteens Bunches of mint, basil, and coriander Garnish for pho Local Dishes and Specialties There are three main regions in Vietnamese cuisine. The north with its cooler climate has a simple cooking style. Exotic meats, including dog, are delicacies, and snake wine is widely available. Central Vietnam boasts a rich vegetar ian tradi tion as well as the sophisticated imperial cuisine of the former royal capital Hue. The southern regions benefit from richer tropical produce. Pho, a traditional noodle soup, captures the essence of Vietnamese cooking. This humble dish originated in the north but has become the nation’s favorite dish. With slices of raw beef that cook in a bowl of hot broth, pho is a nutritious meal in itself. The quality of the soup can vary; connoisseurs prefer to come late to pho stalls to benefit from a stronger broth. The Cuisine The fertile deltas of the Red River in the north and the Mekong River in the south guarantee Vietnam’s supply of rice. The country’s long coastline, rivers, ponds, and lakes provide a plentiful stock of fish and seafood, while the tropical climate means that fruit and vege tables grow in abundance. Vietnamese cuisine relies on herbs and spices – especially coriander, mint, ginger, lemongrass, and spring onions – and fish sauce. Rice (see p99), however, is Vietnam’s staple. Its significance is even reflected in the language; for example, the most common greeting (Ban an com chua?) literally translates as “Have you eaten rice yet?” There is a vast vocabulary referring to various types of rice, the individual stages of the process of planting, growing and harvesting, as well as a plethora of expressions for meals prepared from rice. It accompanies every meal: for everyday consumption the Vietnamese use gao te (ordinary, non-sticky rice), while special occasions such as anniversaries, festivals, and votive offerings call for gao nep (glutinous sticky rice). Ground Pomelo 244-245_EW_VTN.indd 244 18/07/14 2:52 PM where to eat and drink 245 Cahn Chua Ca A hot and sour soup usually made with pineapple, catfish, and plenty of chili. Cha Ca Originating from Hanoi, this dish features fried fish, noodles, dill, peanuts, and nuoc cham. Banh Xeo A pork and prawn pancake often wrapped in a lettuce leaf and served with a tangy lime and chili dip. Street vendor selling baguettes in Ho Chi Minh City Fish drying in the sun for use in nuoc mam, Nha Trang rice is the basis of a wide range of products including noodles, cakes, and rice paper, while distilled rice is used to make rice wine and liquors. Vietnam’s long Buddhist tradition has been responsi ble for the popularity of a vegetarian cuisine perfected over centuries. Especially renown ed is the vegetarian cooking of Hue, which is the country’s traditional center of Buddhism. Here, Vietnamese women are skilled in offer ing sumptuous feasts that include vegetarian versions of famous dishes with meat replaced by beancurd or mushrooms. Among the more unusual aspects of Vietnamese cuisine is the consumption of exotic meats such as frogs, snakes, sparrows, snails, and turtles. Some restaurants even serve wild species, such as porcupine, despite these being officially banned. Street Food Com binh dan (popular food) or com bui (dusty food) refers to street food. Almost everywhere you go in Vietnam, you will be only a few paces away from a stall serving mouthwatering meals and snacks. Stalls that are packed with people sitting around on plastic seats are likely to serve the tastiest dishes. Pho (noodle soup), banh xeo (pancake), and filled ba guettes are favorite snacks. A typical sight on the streets of Vietnam is a woman carry ing a long pole with a basket on each side. These are filled not only with ingredients, such as noodles, herbs, meat, and vegetables, but also with bowls, chopsticks, and a charcoal stove, making them portable kitchens that can produce remarkable feasts. On the Menu nuoc mam A pungent sauce made of fermented salted fish. nuoc cham A fish sauce made with sugar, lemon, water, garlic, and chili. nem ran Fried spring rolls wrapped in rice paper usually dipped in nuoc cham. Banh cuon Raw rice flour rolls stuffed with meat. Chao tom Prawn paste served on a sugarcane stick. Canh chua ca Sour soup. Lau Hotpot. Chao Rice gruel. 244-245_EW_VTN.indd 245 18/07/14 2:52 PM 246 T R AV E L E R S’ N E E D S Where to Eat and Drink Chefs preparing meals in the open kitchen of Orientica Price Guide Price categories include a three-course meal for one, a glass of house wine, tax, and a 15-20% tip. $ up to $10 $$ $10 to 30 $$$ over $30 Ho Chi Minh City Cholon Café Central An Dong $$ International Map 4 F4 18 An Duong Vuong Tel (08) 3833 6688 It’s worth skipping a meal before visiting this fantastic buffet in order to sample as many dishes as possible. Vietnamese, Japanese, and international cuisine is served for breakfast, lunch, and dinner. An à la carte menu is also available. Orientica $$$ Chinese/Japanese Map 4 F3 242 Tran Binh Trong Tel (08) 3839 7777 This award-winning restaurant located in the Equatorial Hotel features a “wet market” where guests can choose their own fresh seafood. Chefs prepare meals in an open kitchen. District 1 Asian Kitchen $ International Map 2 D5 185/22 Pham Ngu Lao Tel (08) 3836 7397 Tucked away in an alley, this eatery has a huge menu of Vietnamese, Japanese, and vegetarian dishes in a relaxed atmosphere. Try the chicken cooked in a clay pot. Bo Tung Xeo $ Vietnamese Map 2 E3 31 Ly Tu Trong St Tel (08) 3825 1330 This large restaurant with its sprawling garden is named after its signature dish, bo tung xeo – strips of beef the diners themselves grill on a brazier at the table. Bun Cha Hanoi $ Vietnamese Map 2 F3 26/1 Le Thanh Ton Tel (08) 3827 5843 Bun Cha Hanoi is one of the most popular places in the city to sample grilled pork served with vegetables and rice vermicelli – a Hanoi specialty. Huong Lai $ Vietnamese Map 2 E3 38 Ly Tu Trong St Tel (08) 3822 6814 A Japanese-run restaurant where orphans, ex-street kids, and disadvantaged youths serve home cooking in a surprisingly classy colonial-style dining room. Staff are attentive, and the food is tasty and well-presented. DK Choice Nha Hang Ngon $ Vietnamese Map 2 E3 160 Pasteur Tel (08) 3827 7131 With simple cooking stations producing delectable regional specialties, this place is aptly named ‘Ngon,’ which means ‘delicious.’ It is a must-visit for an introduction to Vietnamese cuisine, served in and around a lovely colonial villa at rockbottom prices. Popular with locals, it can get crowded at peak hours. Pho 24 $ Vietnamese Map 2 F4 71-73 Dong Khoi St Tel (08) 3825 7505 Branches of this popular franchise can be found all over the country, serving pho – the national dish, consisting of a noodle soup, usually served with beef – in a hygienic, airconditioned environment. Wrap and Roll $ Vietnamese Map 2 F4 111 Nguyen Hue St Tel (08) 3837 1231 Foodies who really like to get their hands dirty will love this place. Order up the ingredients, roll them in rice paper, and then dip them in tangy sauces. Black Cat $$ International Map 2 F4 13 Phan Van Dat Tel (08) 3829 2055 The place to go for comfort food such as waffles and burgers; for the ravenous, the 10 oz (300 g) Double Trouble cheeseburger is a great choice. There are also some Vietnamese and Italian dishes and sandwiches. Hum Vegetarian $$ Vegetarian Map 2 F3 2 Thi Sach St Tel (08) 3823 8920 Hum serves a fantastic range of vegetarian fare, so good that even carnivores will love it, and the menu includes many vegan dishes too. There’s another branch in District 3. Lemongrass $$ Vietnamese Map 2 F4 4 Nguyen Thiep Tel (08) 3822 0496 A tourist-friendly, three-floor establishment with a menu that offers a range of classic dishes such as prawns on sugarcane and crab in a spicy sauce. The set lunch is a good deal. Reservations are recommended for dinner. Marina Saigon $$ Vietnamese/Seafood Map 2 D3 172 Nguyen Dinh Chieu St Tel (08) 3930 2379 Popular among locals for seafood, this is part of the Ngoc Suong chain, which has branches all over the country. Try the crab in tamarind sauce or the sugarcane prawns. Noir $$ International Map 2 F4 Lane 178 Hai Ba Trung Tel (08) 6263 2525 At this famous concept restaurant haute cuisine dishes are served in the pitch dark by blind waiters – the idea is that your sense of taste is enhanced by the deprivation of sight. 246-253_EW_VTN.indd 246 14/07/16 4:44 pm WHERE TO EAT AND DRINK 247 Elegant interior of the popular Thai restaurant, Spice For more information on types of restaurants see pages 242–3 Tandoor $$ Indian Map 2 F4 39 Ngo Duc Ke St Tel (08) 3930 4839 There’s consistently good food (including vegan options) at this centrally located Indian restaurant. It serves both north and south Indian cuisine and is very popular, so book ahead. Temple Club $$ Vietnamese Map 2 E4 29–31 Ton That Thiep St Tel (08) 3829 9244 One of the city’s most atmospheric restaurants, with a former Chinese temple as its setting. Try the chicken curry or cha ca Hanoi, then relax in the retro lounge over dessert and coffee. Bonsai Cruises $$$ Vietnamese Map 2 F4 Bach Dang Pier at the foot of Nguyen Hue Tel (012) 8600 0141 The dinner cruise run by Bonsai Cruises on the Saigon River can be great fun. It includes a Vietnamese and international buffet spread and a live band performing on deck. Camargue $$$ Mediterranean Map 2 F3 74/7D Hai Ba Trung Tel (08) 3520 4888 Located among restaurants and bars in the city center, Camargue serves top-notch Mediterranean cuisine in a stylish setting. Enjoy an aperitif at the bar, then head upstairs for a feast. Maxim’s Nam An $$$ Vietnamese Map 2 F4 13–17 Dong Khoi Tel (08) 3829 6676 Journey back in time with ancient French-style architecture, elegantly laid tables, and music in the evening. The food is reassuringly traditional Vietnamese and there’s a good-value set menu. DK Choice Vietnam House $$$ Vietnamese Map 2 F4 93–95 Dong Khoi St Tel (08) 3829 1623 For those not familiar with Vietnamese cuisine, this is a great place to start discovering its wonderful range of flavors. Set in a lovely colonial-style house, with waiters in traditional attire and live gentle music, it offers à la carte or fixed-price menus. Xu Restaurant and Lounge $$$ Vietnamese Map 2 F3 71–75 Hai Ba Trung Tel (08) 3824 8468 Part restaurant and part lounge, this ultra-chic venue serves innovative Vietnamese dishes in an intimate setting. District 2 Sozo $ International 51, 24A Street, Area 5, An Phu Ward Tel (08) 6 271 9176 This café and bakery is the perfect place to unwind over a leisurely meal. The staff is comprised of local street children being trained to run businesses District 3 Spice $$ Thai Map 2 D3 27 Le Quy Don St Tel (08) 3930 7873 Conveniently located near the War Remnants Museum, this is probably the best Thai restaurant in town, serving classics like tom yam kung and spicy curries. Au Lac do Brazil $$$ South American Map 1 C2 238 Pasteur Tel (08) 3820 7157 Excellent Brazilian fare in stylish surroundings; the churrasco, a platter of grilled meats, will satisfy the most voracious carnivore. Around Ho Chi Minh City VUNG TAU: Binh An Village $$ Vietnamese/International Map C6 1 Tran Phu Tel (064) 351 0016 Set in a resort of the same name, Binh An Village is Vung Tau’s most atmospheric place to eat. In a beautiful building with a tasteful decor, this restaurant has great sea views and excellent food. VUNG TAU: Bistro Nine $$ International Map C6 9 Truong Vinh Ky Tel (064) 351 1571 A welcoming café, great for a Continental breakfast, a filling lunch, or a simple espresso. It also serves home-made French bread and ice cream. VUNG TAU: Ganh Hao $$ Vietnamese/Seafood Map C6 3 Tran Phu Tel (064) 355 0909 Ganh Hao, which serves some of the best seafood in Vung Tau, has tables on a terrace on a promontory above the sea as well as a snug dining room. Try the lobster, jumbo shrimp, or sea bass. Mekong Delta and Southern Vietnam CAN THO: Nam Bo $$ Vietnamese/International Map B6 1 Ngo Quyen Tel (0710) 381 9139 This Can Tho institution offers Vietnamese fusion and international fare, and has a boat-shaped bar on the top floor. CAN THO: Spices $$$ Vietnamese/International Map B6 Victoria Can Tho Resort, Cai Khe Ward Tel (0710) 381 0111 A meal on the poolside terrace of Victoria Resort is worth heading out of town for. Order traditional Vietnamese cuisine or international favorites such as foie gras and grilled sea bass. CAO LANH: A Chau $ Vietnamese Map B6 42 Ly Thuong Kiet Tel (067) 385 2202 Situated just north of the town center, A Chau serves good local fare such as banh xeo (fried pancakes filled with crayfish, pork, and bean sprouts), as well as several dishes with rice. CHAU DOC: Bay Bong $ Vietnamese Map B6 22 Thuong Dang Le Tel (076) 867 271 This simple eatery with tiny stools and plastic tables serves excellent clay-pot dishes and sour fish soup. 246-253_EW_VTN.indd 247 14/07/16 4:44 pm 248 T R AV E L E R S’ N E E D S Open dining area of Bassac, overlooking the Bassac river CHAU DOC: Bassac $$$ Vietnamese/International Map B6 32 Le Loi St, Victoria Chau Doc Hotel Tel (076) 386 5010 This is the best spot in Chau Doc for a romantic evening meal on the terrace, with views of the Bassac river. Order the roasted duck or the local fish, and wash it down with a fine glass of wine. CON DAO ISLAND: Saigon Con Dao $$ Vietnamese Map B6 18–24 Ton Duc Thang Tel (064) 383 0336 At the resort of the same name, this is one of the best of the few eating options in Con Son Town. Enjoy fantastic seafood in the smart dining room or out on the breezy terrace. HA TIEN: Hai Van $ Vietnamese/International Map B6 57 Lam Son Next to the hotel of the same name, Vai Han has been decorated in a simple way. It is known for its consistently good Vietnamese fare as well as excellent Western breakfasts. MY THO: Chuong Duong Restaurant $$ Vietnamese Map B6 10, 30 Thang 4 Tel (073) 387 0875 Located on the banks of the Tien Giang River; the menu here is slanted towards river fish and seafood, but there are plenty of alternatives. There are also rooms, though they’re not as good as the food. PHU QUOC ISLAND: Oasis $ Vietnamese/International Map A6 118/5 Tran Hung Dao St Tel (0909) 259 605 On the lane behind La Veranda Resort, this is a find for anyone craving comfort food like mashed potatoes or pies. It gets busy in the evening with sports on TV and a pool table. DK Choice PHU QUOC ISLAND: Palm Tree $ Vietnamese Map A6 118/11 Tran Hung Dao St (nr. Laveranda Resort The simple furnishings and decor can be misleading, as the kitchen turns out consistently tasty, well-cooked food. Try one of the clay-pot dishes, or go for the seafood barbecue in high season. No sea views to boast of, but the food makes up for it. PHU QUOC ISLAND: Pepper Tree $$$ Vietnamese/International Map A6 La Veranda Resort, Tran Hung Dao St, Duong Dong Beach Tel (077) 398 2988 Phu Quoc’s fanciest restaurant is situated on a veranda overlooking the beach at La Veranda Resort. The small range of dishes is superbly prepared and presented. SOC TRANG: Quan Com Hung $ Vietnamese Map B6 6/24 Hung Vuong Tel (079) 382 2268 The specialty here is grilled steak. As few tourists visit, ordering can be tricky. Use a phrase book or point to a dish that appeals. VINH LONG: Thien Tan $ Vietnamese Map B6 56/1 Pham Thai Buong Tel (070) 382 4001 It is worth heading south of the town center to check out this eatery, which specializes in barbecued dishes. The fish baked in a bamboo tube is particularly delicious. South Central Vietnam BUON MA THUOT: Black & White $ Café/Bar Map C5 171 Nguyen Cong Tru Tel (0500) 384 4960 A smartly decorated joint opposite the Dam San Hotel, a short walk from the town center. There’s no food, but coffee and a range of cocktails are on offer, and the Wi-Fi is reliable. DALAT: An Lac $ Vegetarian Map C5 71 Phan Dinh Phung Tel (063) 382 2025 A nice variety of vegetarian and vegan options here make the most of the bountiful fresh produce that fills the markets of this town. Some dishes include mock meat. DALAT: Café V $ Vietnamese/International Map C5 1/1 Bui Xui Thuan Tel (063) 352 0215 A homey place run by an American-Vietnamese couple that serves some well-prepared Vietnamese and Western dishes, as well as local wines. There is live music every evening. DALAT: Long Hoa $ Vietnamese/International Map C5 6, 3 Thang 2 Tel (063) 382 2914 This family-friendly bistro-style restaurant is right in the town center. It serves wonderful hot pots and soups, some superb home-made yogurt, as well as dalat wine. DALAT: Café de la Poste $$ International Map C5 Tran Phu Tel (063) 382 5444 Operated by the Du Parc Hotel and located opposite the post office, this classy French-style café serves a filling buffet breakfast as well as sandwiches, steaks and pasta. The daily à la carte menu includes Western and Asian delicacies. For key to prices see page 246 246-253_EW_VTN.indd 248 14/07/16 4:44 pm WHERE TO EAT AND DRINK 249 A usual day at Lanterns, serving their best seafood and fish in clay pot For more information on types of restaurants see pages 242–3 DALAT: Le Rabelais $$$ French Map C5 Dalat Palace Hotel, 12 Tran Phu Tel (063) 382 5444 By far Dalat’s most upscale eating option, both in quality and price. Top-notch French cuisine is served in a majestic setting by wait staff who gladly help with suggestions. KONTUM: Dakbla $ Vietnamese/International Map C4 168 Nguyen Hue Tel (060) 386 2584 A small, quirky café that is a big favorite among travelers, not only for its tasty stir-fries, sandwiches, and coffee, but also for its display of hill-tribe paraphernalia, much of which is for sale. MUI NE: Shree Ganesh $ Indian Map C6 57 Nguyen Dinh Chieu Tel (062) 374 1330 A reliable choice for a hearty meal, featuring North Indian cuisine and tandoori dishes cooked by Nepalese chefs. There is a balcony upstairs and the music creates an intimate atmosphere. MUI NE BEACH: Lam Tong $ Vietnamese/International Map C6 92 Nguyen Dinh Chieu Tel (062) 384 7598 This no-frills eatery located on the beach serves better and tastier food than most fancy restaurants in Mui Ne, at a fraction of the price. MUI NE BEACH: Rung (Forest) $$ Vietnamese Map C6 67 Nguyen Dinh Chieu Tel (062) 384 7589 Kids love Rung because it is like dining in the jungle, surrounded by vines and running streams. The food is great too, and traditional musicians perform in the evening. DK Choice MUI NE BEACH: Champa $$$ Mediterranean Map C6 Coco Beach Resort, 58 Nguyen dinh Chieu Tel (062) 384 7111 Closed Mon Open for dinner only, Champa offers a romantic setting on a terrace overlooking the resort’s swimming pool and a coconut grove. The menu includes tempting dishes such as roast lobster in whisky and veal tenderloin in black peppersesame crust. Save room for the heavenly chocolate fudge. NHA TRANG: Da Fernando $ Italian Map C5 96 Nguyen Thien Thuat Tel (058) 352 8034 The place to go to for consistently good pizzas and pastas as well as delicious mains like steak with green peppercorns. There is also a good range of Italian wines. NHA TRANG: Lanterns $ Vietnamese Map C5 34/6 Nguyen Thien Thuat St Tel (058) 247 1674 Here, disadvantaged young people are trained for a stable career in hospitality. They serve excellent seafood hotpot and fish in clay pot, and offer cooking classes too. NHA TRANG: Louisiane Brewhouse $$ International Map C5 29 Tran Phu Tel (058) 352 1948 A beachfront brewery, this has an extensive menu of Vietnamese, Japanese, and other international dishes, as well as delicious homebrewed beer – and a pool. NHA TRANG: Sandals $$ International Map C5 Sailing Club Nha Trang, 72–74 Tran Phu Tel (058) 352 4628 This fancy restaurant right on the beach offers a choice of indoor or outdoor seating and international standards such as beef carpaccio and blueberry cheesecake. QUANG NGAI: Cung Dinh $$ Vietnamese Map C4 5 Ton Duc Thang Tel (055) 381 8444 One of the best places in town, in a riverside location, serves an excellent seafood salad as well as dishes like don (snail soup). QUY NHON: Seafood 2000 $$ Vietnamese/Seafood Map C5 1 Tran Doc Tel (056) 381 2787 Eating on the Vietnamese coast is all about seafood, and this place is often packed with regulars enjoying giant prawns, shark steaks, and seafood hotpot. Central Vietnam CHINA BEACH: Blue Whale $$ Seafood Map C4 My Khe Beach Tel (0511) 394 2777 This beachside colonial villa is an ideal spot to enjoy seafood with great sea views, but check the prices before ordering. DANANG: Bread of Life $ International Map C4 4 Dong Da Tel (0511) 356 5185 Closed Sun This unusual café, run by an American family, serves comfort food like burgers and pizza. Staffed entirely by the deaf, it gives them a chance to lead an independent life. DANANG: Apsara $$ Vietnamese Map C4 222 Tran Phu Tel (0511) 356 1409 One of Danang’s smartest restaurants, with Cham-style decor and a replica Cham tower in the garden. The menu features classic Vietnamese cuisine, including lots of seafood. DANANG: Waterfront $$ International Map C4 150–152 Bach Dang Tel (0511) 384 3373 A stylish spot occupying two levels – a bar downstairs and a restaurant with good river views upstairs. Try the pulled duck or the deluxe burger. It offers a wide range of drinks. DK Choice HOI AN: Mermaid Restaurant $ Vietnamese Map C4 2 Tran Phu St Tel (0510) 386 1527 In a town awash with fancy restaurants serving beautifully presented food, when it comes to taste, this family-run eatery with stylish decor is hard to beat. Try the local white rose dumplings (stuffed with shrimp), cao lau (a delicious noodle soup with crispy croutons and pork), and fish grilled in banana leaves. 246-253_EW_VTN.indd 249 14/07/16 4:44 pm 250 T R AV E L E R S’ N E E D S A freshly prepared dish served at Red Bridge, Hoi An HOI AN: Morning Glory $ Vietnamese Map C4 106 Nguyen Thai Hoc Tel (0510) 224 1555 One of several eating places operated by local restaurateur Trinh Diem Vy, Morning Glory is set in a colonial-style building and serves delicious dishes like roast duck breast with banana flower salad. HOI AN: Nhu Y (Mermaid) $ Vietnamese Map C4 2 Tran Phu Tel (0510) 386 1527 This simple eatery is hugely popular for its special fried wontons, squid stuffed with pork, and stuffed tomatoes. They also offer cooking classes. HOI AN: Red Bridge $ Vietnamese Map C4 Thon 4, Cam Thanh Tel (0510) 393 3222 A stylish, out-of-town restaurant that is tempting enough to spend a day at – attend cookery classes, enjoy a delicious lunch, or simply lounge by the pool. Dinner is by appointment only. HOI AN: Tam Tam Café & Bar $ International Map C4 110 Nguyen Thai Hoc Tel (0510) 386 2212 A popular spot among visitors, serving good French, Italian, and Mediterranean cuisine, as well as some Vietnamese dishes. It also has one of the town’s most popular bars. HOI ANN: Ancient Hue $$ Vietnamese Map C3 104/47 Kim Long Tel (054) 359 0356 Set among ancient buildings, this atmospheric place is ideal for sampling royal cuisine. There are also occasional performances of traditional music and dance. HOI AN: Mango Rooms $$ Fusion Map C4 111 Nguyen Thai Hoc Tel (0510) 391 0839 The names of dishes on the menu are as innovative as the preparation itself. Dancing Phoenix is marinated duck breast and the Magnum Opus is seared blue fin tuna with mango salsa. HUE: La Boulangerie Francaise $ French Map C3 46 Nguyen Tri Phuong Tel (054) 383 7437 Established to give disadvantaged kids a chance to learn a profession, this French bakery serves excellent baguettes and pastries, and is an especially good breakfast choice. HUE: Lac Thien $ Vietnamese Map C3 6 Dinh Tien Hoang Tel (054) 352 7348 One of a trio of places operated by a mute family with a real flair for cookery. They specialize in Hue cuisine, with dishes such as banh xeo (pancakes stuffed with pork, shrimp, and bean sprouts). HUE: Les Jardins de la Carambole $$ Vietnamese/French Map C3 32 Dang Tran Con Tel (054) 354 8815 Set in an attractive Colonial villa in the old city, this eatery serves wonderful French cuisine as well as some Vietnamese dishes. The friendly French owner is often around to make recommendations. HUE: Le Parfum $$$ Vietnamese/International Map C3 La Residence Hotel, 5 Le Loi Tel (054) 383 7475 Located in La Residence Hotel, Le Parfum serves some of the best Western food in Hue. Go for the lamb tenderloin or grilled local fish. The ambience is sophisticated and relaxing. LANG CO BEACH: Thanh Tam $$ Vietnamese Map C3 Thanh Tam Resort, Lang Co Beach Tel (054) 387 4456 It is worth stopping at this resort’s restaurant, so well-known for its seasonal oyster specialties. Breathe the sea air and sample fresh seafood. Diners are allowed to use the pool here. Hanoi French Quarter Quan An Ngon $ Vietnamese Map 2 D4 18 Phan Boi Chau Tel (04) 3942 8162 This successful restaurant serves a fantastic range of regional specialties. It has pleasant indoor and outdoor seating, but be prepared for crowds at peak hours. Al Fresco’s $$ International Map 2 E4 23L Hai Ba Trung Tel (04) 3826 7782 Just the place to indulge a craving for generous portions of comfort food, such as ribs, steaks, or pizza, as well as delicious desserts, beer, and coffee. Cay Cau $$ Vietnamese Map 2 F5 De Syloia Hotel, 17A Tran Hung Dao Tel (04) 3933 1010 Set in the refined surroundings of the colonial-style De Syloia Hotel, this classy dining room serves excellent Vietnamese fare. There is live traditional music from 7 to 9pm. Indochine $$ Vietnamese Map 1 C4 38 Thi Sach Tel (04) 3942 4097 Although very much a tourist spot, Indochine is worth visiting for the attractive colonial house in which it is set, and the wide range of classic Vietnamese dishes. Pots ‘n Pans $$ Vietnamese Map 2 E5 57 Bui Thi Xuan Tel (04) 3944 0205 Staffed by graduates of the KOTO Academy (Know One, Teach One), service here is impeccable and the ambience sophisticated. The innovative menu features dishes like twice-cooked pork belly with beetroot purée. San Ho $$ Vietnamese/Seafood Map 2 D4 58 Ly Thuong Kiet Tel (04) 3934 9184 Specializing in seafood, San Ho is often busy with big groups enjoying a feast and downing a few pitchers of beer. There is live piano music in the evening. For key to prices see page 246 246-253_EW_VTN.indd 250 14/07/16 4:44 pm WHERE TO EAT AND DRINK 251 Elegant exterior of the exclusive Ly Club For more information on types of restaurants see pages 242–3 Le Beaulieu $$$ French Map 2 F4 Sofitel Legend Metropole, 15 Ngo Quyen Tel (04) 3826 6919 Set in Hanoi’s top hotel, La Beaulieu serves French cuisine prepared using only the best ingredients. The Sunday brunch is the stuff of legends, but be prepared to pay for the experience. Ly Club $$$ Vietnamese/International Map 2 F4 4 Le Phung Hieu Tel (04) 3936 3069 One of the city’s most exclusive restaurants, Ly Club features a cocktail bar on the ground floor, and dining with performances of traditional music (7–9pm) on the first floor. Hai Ba Trung District Chim Sao $ Vietnamese 65 Ngo Hue Tel (04) 3976 0633 This quirky restaurant is a great find, with many unusual dishes such as roast pigeon and grilled buffalo. There are plenty of vegetarian options too. Wild Rice $$ Vietnamese Map 2 E5 6 Ngo Thi Nham Tel (04) 3943 8896 A restored colonial building provides a very classy ambience in which to enjoy traditional Vietnamese cuisine with a modern twist. Try the grilled chicken with chili and lemongrass or the braised eggplant with pork. Old Quarter Cha Ca Thang Long $ Vietnamese Map 2 D3 31 Duong Thanh Tel (04) 3824 5115 The best place to sample Hanoi’s specialty fish dish (cha ca) (see p245), served with dill, chives and bean sprouts, and very popular with locals. TheLittle Hanoi $ International Map 2 E3 21–23 Hang Gai Tel (04) 3828 8333 This friendly little eatery is conveniently located near the north end of Hoan Kiem Lake – a good spot to escape the bustling traffic outside. The menu includes favorites like baguette sandwiches, fried chicken, burgers, and salads. DK Choice New Day $ Vietnamese Map 2 E2 72 Ma May Tel (04) 3828 0315 Sometimes the simplest things are best. That is certainly the case with New Day, a no-frills eatery in the heart of the Old Quarter, where the food is better than in many of the city’s more expensive restaurants. It serves fantastic spring rolls and spare ribs at rock-bottom prices. Tandoor $ Indian Map 2 E3 24 Hang Be Tel (04) 3824 5359 Set in a central Old Quarter location, this unpretentious Indian restaurant serves a range of dishes including vegetarian and non-vegetarian thalis. Go up to the second floor to escape the street noise. Essence $$ Vietnamese/ International Map 2 E2 22 Ta Hien Tel (04) 3935 2485 This cozy restaurant in the hotel of the same name serves up superb Vietnamese dishes such as beef in bamboo, as well as a range of excellent Western dishes. Impeccable service, too. Highway 4 $$ Vietnamese Map 2 F3 5 Hang Tre Tel (04) 3926 4200 Probably the most convenient of this unusual restaurant and bar’s several outlets, Highway 4 serves not only great Vietnamese cuisine but also locally brewed spirits. Khazaana $$ Indian Map 2 D3 34 Duong Thanh Tel (04) 3934 5657 Head here for delicious Indian food served in a stylish setting. Presentation and service is excellent, and the set lunch is reasonably priced. DK Choice Green Tangerine $$$ Fusion Map 2 E3 48 Hang Be Tel (04) 3825 1286 One of Hanoi’s most atmospheric restaurants, set in an old colonial house and courtyard. The ever-changing menu that blends the best of French and Vietnamese cooking techniques is wonderfully inventive. Opting for the set lunch is a good way to taste two or three dishes without breaking the bank. Tay Ho Don’s Bistro $$$ Vietnamese/International 16 Quang An Tel (04) 3719 3719 Enjoy wonderful views over West Lake while sampling chef Don’s delicious meatloaf or lamb shanks, washed down with a wine from the extensive list. West of Hoan Kiem Lake KOTO $ International Map 1 B4 59 Van Mieu Tel (04) 3747 0337 Conveniently located near the entrance to the Temple of Literature, this training school for disadvantaged youth serves great sandwiches and salads, and features rooftop views. 246-253_EW_VTN.indd 251 14/07/16 4:44 pm 252 T R AV E L E R S’ N E E D S Walls stacked with bottles of wine at Vine CAT BA ISLAND: Green Mango $$ Vietnamese/International Map C1 231, 1 Thang 4 Tel (031) 388 7151 This classy place serves a fantastic range of food, from muesli and yogurt to pan-roast salmon and smoked duck rolls. Prices are a bit steep, but the service and quality are top-notch. DIEN BIEN PHU: Lien Tuoi $ Vietnamese Map A1 Hoang Van Thai Tel (023) 382 4919 Lien Tuoi stands out among the few good eating establishments in Dien Bien Phu, and has a menu in English. There are decent Vietnamese and Chinese dishes at cheap prices. HAIPHONG: Texas BBQ $ International Map B1 22h Minh Khai Tel (031) 382 2689 Texas BBQ is very popular with locals for its good-value pizzas, ribs, and steaks. There are Thai and Mexican dishes too. HAIPHONG: Nam Phuong $$ Vietnamese Map B1 12 Tran Phu Tel (031) 382 7827 This elegant restaurant in the upmarket Avani Harbour View hotel is open only for dinner, but is worth visiting for its excellent preparation of classic Vietnamese dishes. Try the grilled sea bass with lemongrass. HALONG CITY: Bien Mo Floating Restaurant $$ Vietnamese Map C1 35 Ben Tau, Hong Gai Tel (033) 382 8951 Most visitors to Halong Bay hope to eat great seafood while floating on the water, and this upscale restaurant provides the perfect opportunity. HALONG CITY: The Square $$$ Vietnamese/International Map C1 Novotel, 160 Halong Rd Tel (033) 384 8108 This is by far the best restaurant in Halong City. Located in the Novotel hotel, it offers à la carte or set menus plus a buffet option in the evening, accompanied by a range of fine wines. Stylish decor complements the efficient service. NINH BINH: Trung Tuyet $ Vietnamese Map B2 14 Hoang Hoa Tham Tel (098) 367 7324 This simple, family-run restaurant near the railway station turns out delicious Vietnamese staples in huge portions. DK Choice SAPA: Nature Bar & Grill $ Vietnamese Map A1 24 Cau May Tel (091) 227 0068 Set in a huge Alpine-style loft with fireplaces glowing in winter, Nature Bar & Grill specializes in grilled food served on hot, stone plates. Go for the beef or venison dishes, accompanied by spring rolls and maybe a steamboat to warm the insides. The service is very attentive and the owner is usually on hand with recommendations. SAPA: Baguette & Chocolat $$ International Map A1 Thac Bac Tel (020) 387 1766 Part of the Hoa Sua School, this stylish café trains disadvantaged youth for a career in catering. It is a real find, with comfortable seating, great coffee and cakes, as well as main meals. SAPA: Delta $$ Italian Map A1 33 Cau May Tel (020) 387 1799 Follow up a walk in the hills around Sapa by gorging on wood-fired oven pizzas, pastas, Australian steaks, or lasagna at this lovely place in the town center. The wine bar upstairs has an impressively extensive collection. SAPA: Viet Emotion $$ International Map A1 27 Cau May Tel (020)387 2559 There’s something for everyone here – from tapas to big breakfasts, home-made soups to Khai’s Brothers $$ Vietnamese Map 1 C3 26 Nguyen Thai Hoc Tel (04) 3733 3866 Khai’s hosts a great buffet spread in a colonial building. There is a range of delicious dishes for both lunch and dinner. Mediterraneo $$ Italian Map 2 E3 23 Nha Tho Tel (04) 3826 6288 Conveniently located near St Joseph’s Cathedral and the trendy shops on Nha Tho, this traditional Italian restaurant has a real trattoria vibe. Thuy Ta $$ International Map 2 F3 1 Le Thai To Tel (04) 3828 8148 This popular café, ideally located on the northwest shore of Hoan Kiem Lake, draws in sightseers for refreshing drinks, baguettes, cakes, and ice creams. Vine $$$ International 1A Xuan Dieu Tel (04) 3719 8000 A delight for wine connoiseurs, the walls at Vine are lined with racks of award-winning wines. The menu consists mostly of pastas, pizzas, and steaks – all superbly prepared and served by friendly, attentive staff. Northern Vietnam BAC HA: Cong Fu $ Vietnamese Map A1 Cong Fu Hotel Tel (020) 388 0254 Tiny Bac Ha has few dining options. Cong Fu, in the hotel of the same name in the center of town, may not be gourmet dining, but the food served is tasty and good-value. For key to prices see page 246 246-253_EW_VTN.indd 252 14/07/16 4:44 pm WHERE TO EAT AND DRINK 253 Garden terrace of Nest Angkor, roofed with stylish canvas For more information on types of restaurants see pages 242–3 tasty mains such as salmon with sticky rice. There are Wi-Fi and books for browsing as well. Angkor SIEM REAP: Café Central $ International Map A5 Cnr of sts 9 and 11 Tel (017) 692 997 Right in the town center, this is ideal either for a quick coffee and cake, a burger, or a meal of fish and chips. A kid’s menu and healthy options are available. SIEM REAP: Common Grounds $ International Map A5 719–721 St 14 Tel (063) 965 687 With a mission to fund humanitarian relief schemes in the country, this American-style café not only serves tasty fare but also supports a good cause. Great breakfasts, home-made soups, and juices. SIEM REAP: Khmer Kitchen $ Khmer Map A5 Pub St Tel (063) 964 154 A great place to get to know Khmer cuisine, from amok (a thick, mild curry with steamed fish) to beef lok lak (a spicy marinade) and baked pumpkin. They offer cooking classes too. SIEM REAP: The Soup Dragon $ Fusion Map A5 369 St 8 Tel (063) 964 933 A simple place covering three floors, with some of the cheapest and tastiest food in Siem Reap on offer. It’s famous for its pho (Vietnamese noodle soup) and its amok – a thick curry with steamed fish or meat. SIEM REAP: Nest Angkor $$ International/Khmer Map A5 Sivatha Blvd Tel (063) 966 381 The menu at this striking restaurant with its canvas-roofed terrace is refreshingly different and offers items such as beef tenderloin with river lobster and grilled honey duck breast. There’s sushi and cocktails too. SIEM REAP: Red Piano $$ International Map A5 Pub St Tel (063) 477 730 Patronized by Angelina Jolie during the making of Tomb Raider, this popular bar and restaurant occupies two floors of a corner property. The menu includes steaks and sandwiches as well as Thai and Indian curries. SIEM REAP: Sugar Palm $$ Khmer Map A5 Ta Phul Rd Tel (063) 636 2060 For those wondering where restaurant owners eat in Siem Reap, this is the answer. Sample superb Khmer dishes such as fish amok and chargrilled eggplant with pork on a breezy terrace. SIEM REAP: Terrasse des Elephants $$ Khmer Map A5 Sivatha Rd Tel (063) 965 572 Named after one of the main sights at Angkor, Terrasse des Elephants enjoys great views from an elevated terrace and offers high-class Khmer food. SIEM REAP: Viroth’s $$ Khmer Map A5 99 Wat Bo Rd Tel (012) 826 346 With its lovely setting, surrounded by bamboo and greenery, this is the perfect spot to sample Khmer food at its best. Try the pineapple and shrimp salad or the Khmer sour soup. SIEM REAP: Viva $$ Mexican Map A5 697, 2 Thou Street Tel (092) 209 154 Not exactly authentic Mexican food, but it typifies the global nature of this tourist town. Tuck into tacos, fajitas, enchiladas, and burritos, and wash them down with an inexpensive margarita. DK Choice SIEM REAP: Cuisine Wat Damnak $$$ Fusion Map A5 Wat Damnak Village Tel (077) 347 762 Closed Sun & Mon Set in a beautiful, traditional wooden house, this has been ranked among Asia’s top 50 restaurants. The French chef hunts out unusual local ingredients to prepare dazzling modern takes on traditional Cambodian flavours. Dinner only. SIEM REAP: FCC Angkor $$$ International Map A5 Pokambor Ave Tel (063) 760 283 One of Siem Reap’s more upscale restaurants is set in the ultramodern FCC Hotel. It serves international favorites like steak and pasta, as well as local dishes. 246-253_EW_VTN.indd 253 14/07/16 4:44 pm 254 T R AV E L E R S’ N E E D S Huge selection of handbags at a shop in Binh Tay Market, Ho Chi Minh City Opening Hours Most city shops open at about 8am and do not close until late in the evening at 8pm or 9pm. The newer malls and department stores in big cities open by 10am and close as late as 10pm. Keep in mind that staff tend to start shutting down an hour before the posted closing time. The traditional markets, such as Ben Thanh (see p70) in Ho Chi Minh City and Dong Xuan (see p162) in Hanoi, generally operate from sunrise to sunset. Some of Rights and Refunds As a rule, all sales are final. Though some depart ment stores in big cities may offer a return policy, by and large, once money, goods, or any services have changed hands, there is no going back. Some goods, especially electro nic items such as cell phones, do come with a guarantee. But even here, it covers replace ment, not refund. Bargaining Unless you are in an upscale shop, mall, or national bookstore chain, the asking price of goods is not necessarily the final price. Except for food and drink, which have smaller margins, the rate quoted is twice or even more than what the merchant is willing to settle for. As such, be prepared to bargain. Effective negotiation requires three things. First and most importantly is a pleasant attitude, even a sense of humor. Remember that this is not just a commercial transaction, it’s a social encounter. Secondly, be ready to spend some time. You cannot get the price down from US$50 to US$25 easily. A transaction of that magnitude can take up to ten minutes. And lastly, try walking away. At times, this prompts a drastic reduction in price. How to Pay Though the Vietnamese dong (VND) is the only legal tender in the country, nobody would refuse a US dollar. In areas that are very popular with visitors, especially the more expen sive districts, most shops prefer to quote prices in dollars rather than dong. The reason being that dollars are more profit able for sellers than the dong because of its fluctua ting exchange rate. Hence, as the buyer, always try and pay in dong as it will be cheaper. Major credit cards are accepted in high-end shops, hotels, and restaurants in big cities and major resort towns. However, in small towns and villages, as well as at local bus stations, markets, street food stalls, and other such places, only cash is accepted. Textiles for sale in a White Thai village, Mai Chau these offer a thriving night market on the street outside as well, which runs until midnight. Virtually all retail operations operate seven days a week. However, during Tet (see pp32– 3), some shops shut for a few days, while others open later than usual. Until a few decades ago, the most memorable thing about a Vietnamese store was the emptiness of its shelves. Today, the scene has changed dramatically, as shops all across the country are overflowing with a variety of products, including distinctive conical hats, fine silk, designer clothes, colorful lamps, delicate ceramic ware, and elegantly carved bamboo furnishings – all available at affordable rates. Perhaps the most coveted of all goods are the traditional wares, such as exquisitely embroidered textiles, handicrafts, and jewelry made by Vietnam’s ethnic minorities. While upmarket malls are present in major cities, the local markets and the shopping streets and districts of Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City are the best places to shop. However, Hoi An, with its amazing array of lacquerware, apparel, and crafts is the ultimate shopper’s paradise. SHOPPING IN VIETNAM 254-255_EW_VTN.indd 254 14/07/16 4:44 pm SHOPPING IN VIETNAM 255 Department Stores and Malls Luxury malls and department stores are present in most big cities. Vincom Shopping Center, in Ho Chi Minh City, is one of the country’s largest retail centers, with international brands and foreign fast-food chains. Another high-end shopping mall is Diamond Plaza, which also boasts a movie theater and bowling alley. Near by is Parkson, a classy, four-story department store, boasting brands such as Nike, Guess, Estée Lauder, and Mont Blanc among others. It also has a supermarket and several eateries. The centrally located Saigon Square hosts numerous small stores, and offers better prices than even Ben Thanh market. Zen Plaza, with six floors of outlets and cafés, is ideal for anything from clothing to furniture and artifacts. Close by is Saigon Shopping Center, with a supermarket, book store, and numerous toy and electronics stores. In the Cholon district, An Dong Plaza has many stores offering a range of goods, including a wide var iety of Asian items. In Hanoi, Trang Tien Plaza is an international level shopping center, hosting several brands, both foreign and local, while Big C Thang Long supermarket is not just a great place to buy quality foodstuffs. This two-story mall has goods ranging from fresh food to appliances, garments, home decorations, and electronics. However, the biggest of all is the Vincom Mega Mall at Royal City, Counterfeit Goods Counterfeit goods can be bought on almost any street corner in Vietnam. Articles for sale include Rolex watches, army dog tags, Zippo cigarette light ers with regimental markings, and DVDs, CDs, and video games. Markets and Street Vendors While modern malls are cropping up in large cities, the traditional markets are still the best places to shop. They are considerably cheaper, and ideal stopping points to absorb the city’s atmosphere. The big gest markets in Ho Chi Minh City are Ben Thanh (see p70) in District 1 and Binh Tay (see p75) in Cholon. Both carry an amaz ing selection of products, from clothing and gro ceries to appliances and furnishings. For imported foods, drinks, person al items, accessories, and much more, the Old Market is worth a visit. In Hanoi, Dong Xuan Market (see p162) is a favorite among visitors, and carries a vast array of household goods, as well as clothing, souvenirs, and more. For a great selection of fabrics, visit Hang Da Market. You can also get clothes tailored here. One of the most charming markets in Vietnam is in Hoi An (see p132). While the day market teems with clothes, lacquer and ceramic ware, silk, footwear, and handicrafts, the night market is ideal for a fascinating evening stroll. In addition to local markets, the streets are overflowing with shops selling souvenirs, kitchenware, counterfeit goods, and clothes. Colorful lamp shop, Dong Khoi, Ho Chi Minh City Shopping Streets and Districts All the streets in Hanoi’s Old Quarter (see pp160–61) are named after the products once sold there. For example, Ma (paper) Street offers paper goods, Hon Gai (hemp) Street has rows upon rows of silk shops, Chieu (mats) Street has rush mats and bamboo blinds, and Thiec (tin) Street offers tin and glass items, as well as mirrors. Although the placement of products on these streets is not so strict today, they remain excellent places to browse the wide range of goods at bargain prices. The main shopping area in Ho Chi Minh City is Dong Khoi (see pp60–61), with a huge selection of outlets selling clothing, antiques, arts and crafts, and home furnishings. Gleaming exterior of the exclusive Diamond Plaza, Ho Chi Minh City Coffee and Tea Vietnamese coffee is unique, and comes in a wide selection of flavors, including vanilla, anise, and chocolate. There are three varieties of coffee – Arabica, Robusta, and Weasel. While Arabica is the most expensive and richest, Robusta is cheaper. Weasel is also expensive and is made from coffee cherries eaten and defecated by chon, Vietna mese weasels. Vietnamese tea is a green tea scented with lotus flower. The best place to buy coffee or tea is at markets such as Ben Thanh in Ho Chi Minh City or Dong Xuan in Hanoi. Street ven dors also sell them but overcharge. which boasts an indoor water park and skating rink as well as a bowling alley and cinemas. 254-255_EW_VTN.indd 255 14/07/16 4:44 pm 256 T R AV E L E R S’ N E E D S Collection of bright and colorful crafts and artifacts, Hoi An Arts and Crafts Traditional arts and crafts are produced almost everywhere in Vietnam. Exquisitely embroi dered linen, intricately carved artifacts and figurines, colorful silken lanterns, as well as stylized paintings are just some of the specialties available. For fine textiles, espe cially good quality, handembroidered silk by French and Japanese artists, visit Chi Vang in Hanoi. Also check out Tan My for gorgeous, handembroidered table cloths, throws, and quilts. Craft Link is a nonprofit outlet with a good range of tribal handicrafts and woven products. An outlet for crafts made by people with disabilities in Hoi An is Reaching Out Arts & Crafts. Dong Khoi district in Ho Chi Minh City is home to many silk mer chants, such as Bao Nghi, which also carries linen and other fabrics. Antiques and hilltribe handicrafts made by ethnic minorities are avai lable in Hanoi at 54 Traditions, which offers a range of highend textiles, jewelry and tribal objects including some antiques, while regular handicrafts are available from Hanoi Moment and Craft Window. In Ho Chi Minh City, Miss Ao Dai offers highquality souvenirs, while in Hoi An, Hoi An Arts and Crafts Manufacturing Workshop has skilled craftsmen making pottery, carving wood and embroidering silks, all for sale, and also has daily cultural shows. Great ceramics – tea Furniture Furniture is regarded as an art form in Vietnam. Most of what is available is finely wrought hardwood, often inlaid with motherofpearl or richly carved. Special orders are gladly taken, and most shops also arrange to ship your purchases home. In Ho Chi Minh City, Furniture Outlet offers some of the best pieces and prices, while Tien An carries light furniture, specializing in bamboo chairs, cabinets, and grass mats. The Lost Art offers antique pieces and reproductions and Mosaique offers not only furnishings but items of home decor as well. Lacquerware and Ceramics Vietnam is famous for its lacquerware and ceramics, such as decorative boxes, tea sets, vases, bowls, plates, trays, and paintings to name a few. Some lacquer products feature an amazingly delicate inlay of eggshells or motherofpearl, while several ceramic pieces bear intricate designs. In Ho Chi Minh City, the note worthy Gaya carries works by renowned desig ner Michele de Alberts. Quang’s Ceramics in Hanoi has a splendid col lection, and Le Duan Street also has some good shops. In Hoi An, there are many such shops selling traditional Vietnamese goods. Clothing Hoi An is the most popular place to buy clothes in all of Vietnam. Boutiques here can copy any outfit from any inter national fashion maga zine in a few hours, and at onethird of the cost at home. The most stylish outlet, with extremely high quality goods and service, is Yaly Couture. They can also make a range of shoes, mostly women’s. For cloth purchases and simple tailoring, check out Dressmaker taking measurements of a client at a shop in Hoi An Decorative souvenir statue sets, vases, and bowls – are avai lable at Emem in Ho Chi Minh City. Hanoi Gallery is a good place to buy communistpropaganda art. In Ho Chi Minh City’s District 1, Tara & Kys Art Gallery carries quality prints and Galerie Quynh showcases contemporary works by leading local and foreign artists. Hoi An Art Gallery in Hoi An is worth visiting, and Hanoi Art Gallery sells works by Vietnamese contemporary artists. the Hoi An Cloth Market. For silk outfits, try Bibi Silk, while Bao Khanh Silk Tailors specialize in custommade formal wear. You can also visit Thuong Gia for clothes, and Friendly Shoe Shop for shoes. In Hanoi, Khai Silk gets rave reviews, especially for formal attire, while Ha Noi Silk can tailor suits in 24 hours. For an excellent row of silk shops, walk down Hang Gai Street. For larger sizes, check out Things of Substance. In Ho Chi Minh City, H&D Tailors make outfits for men, and women can get an ao dai, a traditional Vietnamese dress, made at Ao Dai Minh Thu. Check out Creations for custommade outfits. 256-257_EW_VTN.indd 256 14/07/16 4:44 pm SHOPPING IN VIETNAM 257 DIRECTORY Department Stores and Malls An Dong Plaza 18 An Duong Vuong St, Cholon, HCMC. Map 4 F4. Tel (08) 3832 3288. Big C Thang Long 222 Tran Duy Hung St, Hanoi. Tel (04) 3784 8596. ∑ bigc.vn/en Diamond Plaza 34 Le Duan St, Dist. 1, HCMC. Map 2 E3. Tel (08) 3822 5500. ∑ diamondplaza. com.vn Parkson Plaza 35-45 Le Than Ton St, Phuong Ben Nghe, HCMC. Map 2 E3. Tel (08) 3827 7636. Saigon Center 65 Le Loi St, Dist. 1, HCMC. Map 2 E4. Tel (08) 3829 4888. ∑ saigoncentre.com. vn Saigon Square 77 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Dist. 1, HCMC. Map 1 B2. Trang Tien Plaza Hang Bai, Hanoi. Map 2 E4. Tel (04) 3934 9734. ∑ trangtienplaza.vn Vincom Center 171 Dong Khoi St, Dist. 1, HCMC. Map 2 F4. Tel (08) 3936 9999. Vincom Mega Mall 72A Nguyen Trai, Thanh Xuan, Hanoi. Map off map. Tel (04) 6285 7417. ∑ vincomjsc.com Zen Plaza 54 Nguyen Trai St, Dist. 1, HCMC. Map 2 D5. Tel (08) 3925 0339. Markets Hang Da Market Cnr of Hang Ga and Doung Thanh Sts, Hanoi. Map 2 D2. Old Market Cnr of Ham Nghi and Ton That Dam Sts, Dist. 1, HCMC. Map 2 F4. Arts and Crafts 54 Traditions 30 Hang Bun, Hanoi. Map 2 D1. Tel (04) 3715 0194. ∑ 54traditions.com.vn Bao Nghi 127 Dong Khoi St, Dist.1, HCMC. Map 2 F4. Tel (08) 3823 4521. Chi Vang 27 Trang Tien, Hanoi. Map 2 F4. Tel (04) 3828 6576. Craft Link 43 Van Mieu St, Hanoi. Map 1 B4. Tel (04) 3733 6101. ∑ craftlink.com.vn Craft Window 99 Nguyen Thai Hoc St, Hanoi. Map 1 C3. Emem 38 Mac Thi Buoi St, Dist. 1, HCMC. Map 2 F4. Tel (08) 3829 4408. ∑ ofcvn.com/emem/ en Galerie Quynh 151 Dong Khoi St, Dist. 1, HCMC. Map 2 F4. Tel (08) 3824 8284. ∑ galeriequynh.com Hanoi Art Gallery 36 Trang Tien St, Hanoi. Tel (04) 3934 7192. ∑ hanoi-artgallery. com Hanoi Gallery 110 Hang Bac St, Hanoi. Map 2 E3. Tel (04) 3826 7850. Hanoi Moment 101 Hang Gai St, Hanoi. Map 2 D3. Tel (04) 3928 7170. ∑ hanoimoment.vn Hoi An Art Gallery 6 Nguyen Thai Hoc, Hoi An. Tel (982) 868 086. ∑ hoianartcenter.com Hoi An Arts and Crafts Manufacturing Workshop 9 Nguyen Thai Hoc St, Hoi An. Tel (0510) 3910 216. Miss Ao Dai 21 Nguyen Trung Ngan, Dist. 1, HCMC. Map 2 F2. Tel (08) 3822 2139. Reaching Out Arts & Crafts 103 Nguyen Thai Hoc St, Hoi An. Tel (0510) 391 0168. ∑ reachingout vietnam.com Tan My 66 Hang Gai St, Hanoi. Map 2 E3. Tel (04) 3825 1579. ∑ tanmyembroidery. com.vn Tara & Kys Art Gallery 101 Dong Khoi, Dist. 1, HCMC. Map 2 E4. Tel (08) 3823 8149. ∑ tarakys.vn Clothing Ao Dai Minh Thu 129 De Tham St, Dist. 1, HCMC. Map 2 D5. Tel (08) 3836 1947. ∑ aodaiminhthu.com Bao Khanh Silk Tailors 101 Tran Hung Dao St, Hoi An. Tel (0510) 386 1818. ∑ baokhanhsilk.com Bibi Silk 13 Phan Chu Trinh, Hoi An. Tel (091) 343 3260. Creations 105 Dong Khoi St, Dist. 1, HCMC. Map 2 F4. Tel (08) 3829 5429. ∑ creations.vn Friendly Shoe Shop 18 Tran Phu St, Hoi An. Tel (935) 211 382. ∑ friendlyshophoian. com H&D Tailors New World Hotel, Pham Hong Thai St, Dist. 1, HCMC. Map 2 E4. Tel (08) 3824 3517. ∑ hdtailor.vn Ha Noi Silk Thankg Long Opera Hotel, 1 Tong Dan St, Hanoi. Map 2 F4. Tel (04) 3926 3469. ∑ hanoisilkvn.com Hoi An Cloth Market Cnr of Tran Phu and Hoang Dieu Sts, Hoi An. Khai Silk 113 Hang Gai Av (Silk Street), Hanoi. Map 2 D3. Tel (04) 3828 6198. ∑ khaisilkcorp.com Things of Substance 5 Nha Tho, Hanoi. Map 2 E3. Tel (04) 3828 6965. ∑ prieure.com.vn Thuong Gia 41 Nguyen Thai Hoc St, Hoi An. Tel (0510) 386 1816. Yaly Couture 358 Nguyen Duy Hieu St, Hoi An. Tel (0510) 391 4995. ∑ yalycouture.com Furniture Furniture Outlet 2C Nguyen Thanh St, Dist. 1, HCMC. Map 2 D1. Tel (08) 2243 7955. The Lost Art 45 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh Dist., HCMC. Map off map Tel (08) 3514 6080. ∑ saigonlostart.com Mosaique 427 Dong Kim Nguu St, Hanoi. Tel (04) 3971 3797. ∑ mosaique decoration.com Lacquerware and Ceramics Gaya 1 Nguyen Van Trang St, Dist. 1, HCMC. Map 2 D5. Tel (08) 3925 1495. Quang’s Ceramics 95 Ba Trieu St, Hanoi. Map 2 E5. Tel (04) 3945 4235. ∑ quangceramic.com 256-257_EW_VTN.indd 257 14/07/16 4:44 pm Eyewitness Travel What to Drink template (Source v1.2) Date 7th January 2013 Size 125mm x 217mm LAYERS PRINTED: “UK” LAYER 258 t r av e l e r s’ n e e d s What to Buy in Vietnam sprawling traditional markets, sidewalk hawkers, and even the odd shopping mall in vietnam offer a wide range of attractive and unique items. almost any thing wearable is usually a good bargain, be it clothing, foot wear, or jewelry, while handi crafts such as ceramics, basketry, lacquer ware, and even paintings by local artists make splendid souvenirs. the most distinctive items on sale are the exqui site handembroi dered goods and silver jewelry of the hill peoples. In direct contrast, but just as tempting, are the surfeit of counterfeit products found just about everywhere. Hand-dyed silks of the White Tai decorated with distinctive patterns Richly embroidered bags of the Red Dao minority Clothes, Shoes, and Accessories The traditional ao dai is surely the best pick for women. The two-piece is available in cotton, silk, and synthetics in a variety of colors. Viet nam also offers affordable clothing ranging from cotton T-shirts to silk dresses and designer wear – often good value com pared to the West. Vietnamese-style silk shirts and trousers are also tailored cheaply and quickly. Stoles and scarves embroidered or woven by hill peoples are well worth every dong. Lacquerware The Viets learned to harvest lacquer from sumac trees about 2,000 years ago, and even today, the country offers the most beauti ful lacquer souvenirs. Even the simp lest boxes, vases, and jewelry are trans formed into exquisite objets d’art once they have been covered in lacquer – a pro cess that takes months to complete. The lacquer is generally applied on a wooden base, and is usually painted or embellished with intricate inlay work. Tailored silk dress with a Chinese collar Finely woven stoles with beaded tassles Mariners’ compass set with zodiac symbols Lacquered jewelry box, with carvings of birds and leaves Lacquerware inlaid with eggshells Flip-flops with bright designs Pencil case with mother-of-pearl inlay work Bowl glazed with brightly dyed lacquer Spice jars painted with traditional motifs 258-259_EW_VTN.indd 258 17/07/14 3:11 PM shopping in vietnam 259 Ceramics From giant pots to tiny teacups, Vietnamese potters create beautiful and useful ceramic artifacts, which are sold throughout the country. Most renowned are the items created by the artisans in Bat Trang near Hanoi. The area is known for the qual ity of its white clay, and the unique glazing styles, such as “ancient pearl glaze” and “indigo-blue flower glaze,” which evolved here over the centuries. Bamboo, Rush, Leaves, and Grass Woven with great skill into interesting shapes and sizes, grass and rush mats are used as mattresses, seating, and curtains in Vietnam. Wicker trays and bowls are popular, as are embroidered bamboo window blinds and kitchenware. The traditional non la or conical hats are found everywhere, often made from thick dried palm leaves. In Hue, the hats often reveal subtly painted designs when held up to the light. Huge vases with swirling floral designs over ivory glaze Chinese-style, blue-and-white porcelain jar Hand-painted ceramic elephants Traditional Vietnamese conical hat Brightly painted wicker Tet mask Paintings Vietnam is fast becoming a draw for art collectors. Watercolors and oils are found almost every where, but most exquisite are the unique lacquer and silk paintings. The finest art is found in the cul tural hubs of Hanoi, Hoi An, and Hue. Silver Jewelry of the Hill Peoples Silver is a traditional symbol of wealth among many hill peoples. Antique earrings, chunky pendants, and bangles are com monly available in shops in major towns and villages. Ornate silver belts worn by women are especially attractive. A colorful painting by a contemporary artist Traditional Red Dao panel Wooden fruit bowls Painted cosmetic box Wicker serving tray with ceramic handles Rattan trays used for serving Selection of silver earrings 258-259_EW_VTN.indd 259 17/07/14 3:11 PM ENTERTAINMENT IN VIETNAM Information The official monthly magazine of the National Administration of Tourism, Travellive is packed with travel and lifestyle news from around the country, as is Vietnam Airlines’ in-flight magazine Heritage. For maximum coverage of leisure and lifestyle issues and events, as well as up-todate listings, pick up The Word and Asia Life monthly magazines. Found free of charge in many restaurants, bars, and hotels, Vietnam Pathfinder has reviews and travel and culture stories from around the country. The national English-language newspaper, Viet Nam News, and the monthly Saigon Times feature sections dedicated to upcoming events in both Ho Chi Minh City and Hanoi. Traditional Theater, Music, and Dance Traditional music, dance, and theater are inextri cably linked in Vietnam, and one is usually incomplete without the other. Even as the nation races headlong toward modernization, these performing arts have been given great impetus by tourism and still thrive. Hanoi is regarded as the cultural heart of Vietnam. Among other things, it is the birthplace of the nation’s most delightfully idiosyncratic theatrical format, water puppetry (see p163). The best place to see this unique art form, where marionettes enact wildly colorful tales on a watery stage, is The cultural climate in Vietnam is more vibrant, exciting, and promis ing than ever. Traditional music and theater, first performed centuries ago, are being strongly promoted through cultural festivals held all around the country. Although the nation’s rich artistic heritage draws international audiences, major cities also offer night clubs and modern multiplexes. Stately concert halls stage opera recitals, even as local pop stars belt out the latest ballads on makeshift stages. Ho Chi Minh City’s midnight curfew is over, and a surfeit of bars and nightclubs tempt with live music and expertly mixed cocktails until the early hours of the morning. Water puppetry thrives in Hanoi, and so does jazz. Turntables and techno beats are common in small cities. Betting is legal but only on greyhounds and horses. With its many contrasts and contradictions, Vietnam offers a heady mix of entertainment options to all. Elaborately costumed puppets, Water Puppet Theater, Hanoi the Thang Long Water Puppet Theatre (see p162) in Hanoi. The Golden Dragon Water Puppet Theater in Ho Chi Minh City holds daily performances, and Binh Quoi Tourist Village also includes water puppet shows in its range of cultural events, as does Nha Trang with its Water Puppet Theater, which has daily afternoon and evening shows. Various forms of theatrical arts are popular in Vietnam. The nation’s traditional theater (see pp28–9) can be categorized into three primary dramatic modes, hat boi, hat cheo, and cai luong. All three types are sung – hat means sing – and are distinctly operatic in form. Characterized by extravagant costumes and makeup, as well as highly stylized acting, hat boi or tuong is clearly influenced by Chinese theater but is Vietnamese in flavor. A pared-down and simplified version of hat boi is hat cheo. Similar to operetta, this also focuses on high drama and tragedy, but is leavened with humor. Cai luong, in contrast, originated in the early 20th century and is somewhat like a Broad way musical. The stage is elabo rately deco rated, and every scene is rife with melodrama. Regardless of the story or song lyrics, it features a set number of tunes repre senting emotions such as happiness, sadness, suspicion, and so on. Avid theatergoers know all the melodies by heart. Today, traditional theater enjoys more widespread popularity in Hanoi than anywhere and will either book your tickets or pur chase them in advance for you. Online booking is rare but some cinemas are adopting the practice. It is usual for most Vietnamese and visi tors to buy tickets on arrival at the show’s venue. Booking Tickets Buying tickets in advance is not yet the norm in Vietnam, but most hotels are very help ful, 260 T R AV E L E R S’ N E E D S 260-261_EW_VTN.indd 260 14/07/16 4:44 pm else in the country. Hat cheo performances are staged regularly at the Hanoi Cheo Theater, while the Golden Bell Theater features performances from various regions of the country in an hour-long show. On weekends, Den Ngoc Son (see p164) presents excerpts from hat cheo plays. Also check the local listings for theater performances at the Temple of Literature (see pp170–71). Apart from opera, Vietnam’s classical music features both vocal and instrumental compositions. Once subject to the strict regulations and conventions of Hue’s imperial court, formal music got a new lease of life under Frenchcolonial rule. Three styles – bac (northern), trung (central), and nam (southern) – eventually emerged. Vietnamese chamber music employs string, percussion, and woodwind instruments, creating a distinctive sound. When used for traditional theater, brass is included in the orchestra to add dramatic resonance to the sound. Musicians play often in Ho Chi Minh City’s Independence Palace (see p65) but their performances do not follow a set schedule. Like Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City, most cities and towns have prominent cultural centers and theaters. In Hoi An, the Hoi An Traditional Theatre hosts musical recitals and plays almost every night. Nguyen Hien Dinh Theater in Danang and Hue’s Biennial Arts festival, held in June every evennumbered year, keep ancient Vietnamese drama, dance, and music alive. Also in Hue, the Hon Chen Temple (see p152) presents music and dance performances and recitals in the third and seventh lunar months. Contemporary Music and Concerts Vietnam’s most celebrated concert halls are the Opera House (see p166) in Hanoi and the Municipal Theater (see p62) in Ho Chi Minh City. They present orchestral music, Western and Asian opera, as well as pop music concerts. The Conservatory of Music in Ho Chi Minh City is home to the local symphony, and hosts classical music, opera, and jazz recitals regularly. Given the country’s balmy weather, the Vietnamese are extremely fond of outdoor concerts. In Ho Chi Minh City, the scenic Van Hoa Park is very popular, while Hanoians enjoy their favorite crooners around Hoan Kiem Lake (see p164). Most of these shows feature Vietnamese pop music, and on occasion, a chorus line dance by women in their traditional ao dai. Although these performances may be an acquired taste for most foreigners, the festive atmosphere is extremely infectious. Sports stadiums, such as Ho Chi Minh City’s Military Zone 7 Stadium, are also common concert venues. Young Vietnamese turn up in great numbers to watch the local stars perform live. Certain restaurants, bars, and fashion houses in Ho Chi Minh City and Modern Theater Although there are many fine and ambitious playwrights producing insightful dramas and comedies, modern theater is a connoisseur’s art in this country. Plays, usually in Vietnamese, are generally staged in small, tucked-away theaters. One good venue for foreigners is the Ho Chi Minh City Drama Theater, where local works are presented with English subtitles. Hanoi’s Youth Theater is one of the best theater operations in the country. Its director, Le Hung, studied his craft in Moscow where he was inspired by Stanislavsky and Brecht. He now brings those teachings to bear on contemporary Vietnam. Many plays performed by the repertory group have been written by Le himself, while others are adaptations of works by Vietnamese and foreign playwrights. Most interesting are the modernized versions of hat cheo, which are staged occasionally. Hanoi also present lively concerts fairly often. These events are announced in the local media, but hotel concierges are also good sources of information. Maxim’s Club, one of the oldest such venues in Ho Chi Minh City, can be relied on for a fine meal and an enjoyable show. It showcases everything from string quartets and pop music to Vietnamese folk songs and the latest local rock acts. Actor in full cai luong regalia Traditional music performance in Ho Chi Minh City ENTERTAINMENT IN VIETNAM 261 260-261_EW_VTN.indd 261 14/07/16 4:44 pm 262 T R AV E L E R S’ N E E D S Movies Vietnamese movies are occasionally dubbed or subtitled for an English-speaking audience. Some movie halls in Hanoi, such as the National Cinema Theater and Cinematheque, are noteworthy venues for locally produced art and foreign-language films. In all major cities, CGV Cinemas feature the latest international releases. Foreign films are also very popular in smaller towns, although they are mostly seen on pirated video CDs and DVDs. Nightclubs, Discos, and Bars Even in the first few years of Vietnam’s economic reforms or doi moi, it seemed that the only legal hedonistic pur suit available in Ho Chi Minh City was nursing a tepid beer in a backpacker hangout. Today, the city’s nightlife is picking up at an encouraging pace. Hien and Bob’s Place, one of the oldest bars around, set an example for a slew of other intimate little watering holes. While many bars in Ho Chi Minh City seem to come and go almost on a weekly basis, some old favorites such as Apocalypse Now are still going strong. This is the most famous nightclub in Vietnam. Ho Chi Minh City’s back packer district, in and around Pham Ngu Lao Street, boasts a string of dingy bars and lively clubs. Among them, 163 Cyclo Bar is a sports bar with a great view of the street. For a quiet drink one can head for La Fenetre Soleil, a cool spot to sip a cocktail and listen to a live band. Both Vasco’s and O’Brien’s provide cold beers Spectator Sports Without doubt, football is the national passion. Local teams and leagues are revered, and the country seems to come to a halt for the World Cup. Most major matches take place at Thong Nhat Stadium in Ho Chi Minh City and My Dinh National Stadium in Hanoi. Following a close second is badminton, which the Vietnamese enjoy playing even more than they like to watch the national champions. Gambling is an integral part of Vietnamese customs and culture but is mostly illegal in the country. However, the state-run lottery, the Saigon Racing Club, and Lam Son Stadium, where greyhounds race, are above board. along with filling bites to eat. Also worth a look is Blue Gecko, a popular bar, complete with a pool table and dart board. The Spotted Cow is an ex-pat Western-style bar that allows you to watch sports on its large screen as you down your beer. Carmen Bar is famous for its Latin and flamenco music, while Lush is a nightclub with music ranging from hip-hop to house. Greater sophistication can be found at rooftop bars in Dong Khoi Street’s posh hotels such as Rooftop Garden at the Rex (see p64). Live bands play music as guests watch the city go by below. The same goes for Saigon Saigon in the Caravelle (see p62), Breeze Sky Bar, and Level 23, while for an evening of mellow live jazz, few venues can match the atmospheric Sax n Art. Hanoi may not be quite as glamorous as Ho Chi Minh City but its inhabitants know how to enjoy themselves. Tiny places where the local beer bia hoi (see p243) is the specialty are very popular. Sadly, hip hangout Restaurant Bobby Chinn has now closed, the eponymous celebrity chef having moved to London, but for those who want to avoid the rough and ready, classical music on piano and violin is played at Ly Club. Seventeen Cowboys is all about the Wild West, and Le Pub is a great spot to spend some time relaxing. Most interesting, though, is Hanoi’s thriving jazz scene. A shift ing network of clubs can be tracked through the local media, but the top spot is the superb Binh Minh Jazz Club where local sax master Quyen Van Minh jams almost every night. Refreshment street-style at one of Hanoi’s many bia hoi (beer) bars A horse race in progress at the famous Saigon Racing Club In Hoi An, Tam Tam Café & Bar (see p250) has a decor redolent of old Indochina, but a hip DJ spins at night. White Marble serves the town’s widest range of wines. Nha Trang’s Louisiane Brewhouse is a great place to spend an afternoon or evening, while La Bella Napoli serves the only glass of grappa in town. One of the best hang outs here is the Sailing Club, a laid-back bar by day and hip dance club by night. In Hue, the DMZ Bar oozes old-world charm, while the Why Not Bar is perfect for a long cocktail. Karaoke clubs are generally fronts for pros titution and are best avoided as the government is currently cracking down on these bars. 262-263_EW_VTN.indd 262 14/07/16 4:38 pm ENTERTAINMENT IN VIETNAM 263 DIRECTORY Traditional Theater, Music, and Dance Binh Quoi Tourist Village 1147 Xo Viet Nghe Tinh St, Binh Thanh Dist, HCMC. Tel (08) 3898 6696. Nguyen Hien Dinh Theater 155 Phan Chu Trinh St, Danang. Tel (0511) 356 1291. Golden Bell Theater 72 Hang Bac St, Hanoi. Map 2 E3. Tel (098) 830 7272 .∑ goldenbellshow.vn Golden Dragon Water Puppet Theater 55B Nguyen Thi Minh Khai St, Dist 1, HCMC. Map 2 D4. Tel (08) 3827 2653 Hanoi Cheo Theater 15 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Hanoi. Tel (04) 3934 7361. ∑ cheohanoi.vn Hoi An Traditional Theatre 75 Nguyen Thai Hoc St, Hoi An. Tel (0510) 386 1159. Nha Trang Water Puppet Theater 46 Tran Phu, Nha Trang. Tel (058) 352 7828. Thang Long Water Puppet Theatre 57B Dinh Tien Hoang St, Hanoi. Map 2 E3. Tel (04) 3824 9494. Contemporary Music and Concerts Conservatory of Music 112 Nguyen Du St, Dist. 1, HCMC. Map 2 D4. Tel (08) 3822 5841. Maxim’s Club 13,15,17 Dong Khoi St, Dist. 1, HCMC. Map 2 F4. Tel (08) 3822 5554. ∑ maxims.com.vn Military Zone 7 Stadium 2 Pho Quang St, Tan Binh, HCMC. Van Hoa Park 115 Nguyen Du St, Dist. 1, HCMC. Map 2 D3. Modern Theater Ho Chi Minh City Drama Theater 30 Tran Hung Dao St, Dist. 1, HCMC. Map 2 E5. Tel (08) 3836 9556. Youth Theater 11 Ngo Thi Nham St, Hanoi. Map 2 E5. Tel (04) 3943 8020. Movies Cinematheque 22A Hai Ba Trung, Hanoi. Map 2 E4. Tel (04) 3936 2648. CVG Cinemas ∑ cgv.vn National Cinema Theater 87 Lang Ha St, Hanoi. Map 1 A3. Tel (04) 3514 1791. ∑ vietnamtuong theatre.com Nightclubs, Discos, and Bars 163 Cyclo Bar 163 Pham Ngu Lao St, Dist. 1, HCMC. Map 2 D5. Tel (08) 3920 1567. Apocalypse Now 2B Thi Sach St, Dist. 1, HCMC. Map 2 F3. Tel (08) 3825 6124. ∑ apocalypsesaigon. com Binh Minh Jazz Club 1 Trang Tien, Hanoi. Map 2 F4. Tel (04) 3942 0400. ∑minhjazzvietnam.com Blue Gecko 31 Ly Tu Trong, Dist. 1, HCMC. Map 2 E3. Tel (08) 8824 3483. ∑bluegeckosaigon.com Breeze Sky Bar Majestic Hotel, 1 Dong Khoi St, Dist. 1, HCMC. Map 2 F4. Tel (08) 3829 5517. ∑ majesticsaigon.com Carmen Bar 8 Ly Tu Trong St, Dist. 1, HCMC. Tel (08) 3829 7699. DMZ Bar 60 Le Loi St, Hue. Tel (054) 382 3414. ∑ dmz.com.vn Hien and Bob’s Place 43 Hai Ba Trung St, Dist. 1, HCMC. Map 2 F3. Tel (08) 3823 0661. La Bella Napoli 60 Hung Vuong St, Nha Trang. Tel (058) 352 7299. La Fenetre Soleil 44 Ly Tu Trong, Dist 1, HCMC. Tel (08) 3824 5994. ∑ lafenetresoleil.com Le Pub 25 Hang Be, Hanoi.Map 2 E3. Tel (04) 3926 2104. Level 23 Sheraton Hotel, 88 Dong Khoi St, Dist. 1, HCMC. Map 2 F4. Tel (08) 3827 2828. ∑ sheratonsaigon.com Louisiane Brewhouse Lot 29, Tran Phu St, Nha Trang. Tel (058) 352 1948. Lush 2 Ly Tu Trong, Dist. 1, HCMC. Map 2 F2. Tel (08) 3824 2496. ∑ lush.vn Ly Club 4 Le Phung Hieu, Hanoi. Map 2 F4. Tel (04) 3936 3069. ∑ lyclub.vn O’Brien’s 74A2 Hai Ba Trung, Dist. 1, HCMC. Map 2 F3. Tel (08) 3829 3198. Sailing Club 72 Tran Phu St, Nha Trang. Tel (058) 352 4628. ∑ sailingclubvietnam. com Sax n Art 28 Le Loi, Dist. 1, HCMC. Map 2 E3. Tel (08) 3822 8472. ∑ saxnart.com Seventeen Cowboys 98B Tran Hung Dao St, Hanoi. Map 2 D4. Tel (090) 443 8883. ∑ seventeencowboys. com The Spotted Cow 111 Bui Vien, Dist. 1, HCMC. Map 2 D5. Tel (08) 3519 4138. Tam Tam Café and Bar 110 Nguyen Thai Hoc, Hoi An. Tel (0510) 386 2212. Vasco’s 74/7d Hai Ba Trung, Dist. 1, HCMC. Map 2 F3. Tel (08) 3824 2888. Why Not Bar 46 Pham Ngu Lao St, Hue. Tel (054) 382 4793. ∑ whynot.com.vn White Marble 98 Le Loi St, Hoi An. Tel (0510) 391 1862. Spectator Sports Lam Son Stadium 15 Le Loi St, Vung Tau. Tel (064) 351 3555. My Dinh National Stadium Le Duc Yho, Tu Liem Dist, Hanoi. Tel (969) 763 667. Saigon Racing Club 2 Le Dai Hanh St, Dist. 11, HCMC. Map 3 C2. Tel (090) 366 6433. Thong Nhat Stadium 138 Dao Duy Tu St, Dist. 10, HCMC. Map 4 E3. Tel (08) 3855 7865. 262-263_EW_VTN.indd 263 14/07/16 4:38 pm 264 T R AV E L E R S’ N E E D S OUTDOOR ACTIVITIES AND SPECIAL INTERESTS With its misty mountain tops, tropical forests, gushing rivers, and increasingly cosmopolitan cities, Vietnam today is a playground for a range of activities. The country’s relatively undeveloped coastline stretches for hundreds of miles, and is a water lover’s dream, with secluded beaches, pristine bays, and untrammeled surf. Trekkers and nature enthusiasts are drawn to the impressive network of national parks, mountain trails, and nature walks, while cyclists embrace the opportunity to explore the terrain or ride on uncrowded roads all the way from Hanoi to Ho Chi Minh City. Catering to the needs of millions of international visitors, luxury golf clubs have cropped up in all the major cities and resort towns. Food lovers can exercise their palates on one of the many culinary holidays, savoring the imperial cuisine of Hue and the exotic fruit of Mekong Delta as they go along. With so many activities to choose from, Vietnam is a multifaceted country with something that fits the interests and budget of most visitors traveling here. Diving, Snorkeling, and Swimming The best developed location for diving in Vietnam is the resort town of Nha Trang (see pp112–15), which is home to several competent specialists offering equipment, boats, and instructors for crash courses. Rainbow Divers is the oldest and most trusted operation for aquatic activities here, and has a number of branches in diving locales throughout the country. Nha Trang has many other reliable outfits in operation, including Sailing Club Divers. About 37 miles (60 km) north of town, Whale Island Resort is an increasingly popular location for both diving and snorkeling. Located farther south, Phu Quoc Island (see p105) and Con Dao Islands (see p102) are blessed with shallow coral reefs, and are primed to become serious competitors to Nha Trang. At the moment, Phu Quoc and Con Dao are relatively unspoiled, though developing fast. Rainbow Divers is the sole operat or in these places. Hoi An (see pp128–33), with its string of fishermen’s islands about an hour’s boat ride from shore, provides excellent diving opportunities in Central Vietnam. One-, two-, and three-day trips to these islands can be organized by Cham Island Diving Center. Most beaches along the coast from Danang (see p138) to Nha Trang offer stretches of water ideal for swimming. Among the safest is Mui Ne Beach (see p110), where the undercurrents are weakest. Swimming facilities are also available in cities, as most hotels allow the use of their pools for a small sum. In Ho Chi Minh City, Grand Hotel (see p236) offers one of the cheapest rates for a day at its pool, while the International Club has a pool, sauna, steam room, and gym avail able for less than US$10 per day. In Hanoi, the swimming pools in Army Hotel and Thang Loi Hotel are affordable to use. Water parks such as Dam Sen (see p75) in Ho Chi Minh City, Ho Tay Water Park in Hanoi, as well as the Phu Dong Water Park in Nha Trang are all good for a nice dip. Surfing, Kitesurfing, and Windsurfing Although few Vietnamese surf, many foreign visitors take advantage of the superb, if not terribly huge waves at China Beach (see p137). Surfing boards can be rented locally. Kitesurfing has caught on in a big way at Mui Ne, which is now the site of an annual international competition in the sport. The calm sea and strong winds provide perfect conditions. Jibe’s Beach Club offers kitesurfing package holidays. The popularity of windsurfing is also escalating. Two operations for both kitesurfing and windsurfing are Sailing Club Kite School and C2Sky Kitecenter. Windsurfers riding the gentle waves of the South China Sea, Mui Ne Divers preparing to go under, Nha Trang 264-265_EW_VTN.indd 264 14/07/16 4:44 pm OUTDOOR ACTIVITIES AND SPECIAL INTERESTS 265 Kayaking Kayaks, still something of a novelty in Vietnam, were first introduced at Halong Bay (see pp186–88), and soon proved to be ideal for exploring the islands, coves, and caves of the area. While visitors are free to wander the waters on their own, it is wise to contract with a specialist tour agency. Reliable outfits include old favorites the Sinh Tourist (see p273) and Buffalo Tours, both of which arrange kayak ing holi days. Also recommended is Handspan Adventure Travel, known for keeping to small groups and using its own vehi cles and guides. Green Trail Tours organizes kayak ing tours in Halong Bay as well as at Ba Be Lake (see p204) and the Mekong Delta. Golf Once regarded by Communist Party stalwarts as a decadent and bourgeois pastime, golf is becoming popular in Vietnam. Once the domain of the expatriate community, golf clubs are now frequented by a growing number of local Vietnamese enthusiasts. While club memberships are quite expensive, guest fees are not so steep. Courses are clustered around Ho Chi Minh City, Mui Ne, Danang, Dalat, and Hanoi. Rach Chiec Driving Range is about a 10minute drive north of the city center, and is more economical than most venues. Vietnam Golf Country Club is a topclass facility, with two floodlit 18hole courses that enable guests to play at night. In Hanoi, you can practice your swing at Lang Ha Driving Range, while an hour west of The luxuriant expanse of the beachside Ocean Dunes golf course, Phan Thiet the city is the exclusive BRG King’s Island Golf Resort. The most popular courses, though, are in and around Dalat (see p118–20). Two extremely stylish golf clubs are Dalat Palace, established during the FrenchColonial era, and Phan Thiet’s Ocean Dunes, designed by Nick Faldo. Sea Links in Mui Ne is one of the country’s most luxurious courses. Kayaking in the crystal clear waters of Halong Bay Trekking The sheer topographic variety found in Vietnam makes it an ideal terrain for trekkers. You can choose bet ween nature walks on national park trails or go on a hike on moun tain slopes, adventur ous romps through densely foliaged for ests, and long strolls along the beaches. The northern mountainous area around Sapa (see pp200–201) is one of the most popular trekking areas with visitors and locals alike, served by many tour agen cies such as Topas Adventure, Exotissimo, and Footprints. Both take pride in their handson style, and provide local guides, who make useful ambassadors when approaching ethnic vil lages. National parks are also ideal for trekking expeditions, with tended trails and some basic infrastructure. Cat Ba National Park (see p193) has one of the most challenging hiking trails in the park sys tem. It winds its way through 29 miles (47 km) of jungle, right up to the summit of one of the park’s highest hills. Sturdy shoes, a plastic raincoat, and plenty of water are essential. It is advisable to hire a guide. Any nearby hotel can make the necessary arrangements. Not all trails in Cuc Phuong National Park (see p197) are marked, so it is best to take a guide. The longest walk here is a fivehour trek to the village of Kanh, where one can stay the night and go rafting on Buoi River. A 5mile (8km) trek takes hikers deep into the for est to a huge tree said to be 1,000 years old. Shorter hikes include a nice walk through the botanical garden and to the Primate Rescue Center, while another leads to a cave where prehistoric artifacts were discovered. Some of the most impressive trails are in Bach Ma National Park (see p140). Summit Trail leads to the top of Bach Ma Mountain or White Horse Mountain, so named for the streaks of white cloud often seen at its summit. The stun ning views are well worth the steep climb. The Five Lakes Cascade Trail takes hikers by a series of enchant ing water falls through the park, and is filled with rare flora and fauna. Alternatively, the Rhododen dron Trail lives up to its name during spring when it is cloaked in flowers. A section of the Five Lake Cascade Trail, Bach Ma National Park 264-265_EW_VTN.indd 265 14/07/16 4:44 pm 266 T R AV E L E R S’ N E E D S Bird-Watching With over 800 species recorded in the country, Vietnam is a prime destination for birdwatching enthusiasts. The country is also an impor tant breeding ground for many migratory birds, and the more common birds can be spotted everywhere. Tour agencies are beginning to include specialized tours in their itineraries, and informa tion is easy to come by in tourist offices. In the last decade, Vietnam has been subject to outbreaks of bird flu, but currently, the situation is under control. Fresh ingredients and spices awaiting preparation, Hue Martial arts instructor practising in a park, a common sight Cycling The best way to get a feel of the real Vietnam is on a bicycle. The route between Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City has become the Holy Grail for many cyclists. Highway 1 has become congested and is also susceptible to flood ing, so the preferred route these days is H ighway 14. While it lacks the ocean breeze of the coastal route, it is still very picturesque. The Mekong Delta region offers easy riding on flat roads. Views here are beautiful, especially at rice harvest time. In the Central Highlands, moun tain cycling is taking off, though there are no dedicated trails at present. The condition of the roads along the southern route can vary; however, the many rivers and bridges on the way provide scenic stopovers. Veloasia organizes customized cycling tours to remote parts of the country, as does the excellent Bangkok-based SpiceRoads. However, try to avoid longdistance tours in the northern mountains in winter as the roads can be slippery and quite dangerous. For cycling in Dalat and the South Central Highlands, try Phat Tire Ventures. Cyclists planning to travel independently should bring their own gear – rented bikes can be unre liable. If the bike breaks down, there are several bicycle repair shops along the way. You will also have to be vigilant of your posses sions. Martial Arts Martial arts are an important part of the cultural, athletic, and social mix in Vietnam. Many forms are practised here, including the indigenous vo dao, the origins of which go back around 2,000 years. Like judo, it turns the opponent’s strength against him or her, and like kung fu, includes a wide vocabulary of blows. Weapons such as cudgels, swords, and axes can also be incorporated into the practitioner’s repertoire. You can take a course at Nam Huynh Dao School in Ho Chi Minh City. Another martial art that is indigenous to Vietnam is sa long cuong. It stresses the principles of mind over matter, and flexibility over rigidity. Lessons are given at the Youth Culture House of HCMC in Ho Chi Minh City. Various other combative arts such as judo, aikido, and kung fu can be prac tised at Saigon Sports Club in Ho Chi Minh City for a fee. Those who are only interest ed in watching the art can do so for free as well. In some of the city’s parks, particu larly in the Cholon district, it is common to see martial arts instructors practising in full-swing. In Hanoi, taekwondo – a style of unarmed combat for self-defense from Korea – is the most popular martial art, and the English-speaking Bay Taekwondo is one of the Cyclists exploring the streets of Hoi An best places to practice. Culinary Holidays Vietnam is home to one of the most interest ing cui sines in the world. While culi nary tours can be expensive, most epi cures swear by them. New Yorkbased Absolute Travel offers a luxury tour that starts in Ho Chi Minh City, moves on to Hoi An (see pp128–32) and Hue (see pp142–8), and wraps up in Hanoi. In little more than a week, it gives you the chance to sample the basic styles of Vietnamese cooking. Cookery classes can be another option. Many hotels offer courses, one of the best being Madame Thi Kim Hai’s at the Sofitel Legend Metropole Hotel (see p166) in Hanoi. This half-day course takes you on a trip to the market and then back to the kitchen to prepare the ingredients in northern style. Another interesting course is at Vy’s Market Restaurant & Cooking School in Hoi An. 266-267_EW_VTN.indd 266 14/07/16 4:44 pm OUTDOOR ACTIVITIES AND SPECIAL INTERESTS 267 DIRECTORY Diving, Snorkeling, and Swimming Army Hotel 1A Nguyen Tri Phuong St, Hanoi. Map 2 F4. Tel (04) 6299 3322. ∑ armyhotel.com.vn Cham Island Diving Center 88 Nguyen Thai Hoc St, Hoi An. Tel (0510) 391 0782. ∑ vietnamscuba diving.com C2Sky Kitecenter 82 Nguyen Dinh Chieu St, Mui Ne. Tel (091) 665 5241. ∑ c2skykitecenter.com Ho Tay Water Park 614 Lac Long Quan St, Hanoi. Tel (04) 3718 4222. Phu Dong Water Park Tran Phu St, Nha Trang. Rainbow Divers 90A Hung Vuong St, Nha Trang. Tel (058) 352 4351. ∑ divevietnam.com Sailing Club Divers 72–74 Tran Phu St, Nha Trang. Tel (058) 352 2788. ∑ sailingclubdivers. com Thang Loi Hotel 200 Yen Phu St, Ho Tay, Hanoi. Tel (04) 3289 4211. Whale Island Resort 2 Me Linh St, Nha Trang. Tel (058) 384 0501. ∑ anislandinvietnam. com Surfing, Kitesurfing, and Windsurfing Jibe’s Beach Club 84–90 Nguyen Dinh Chieu St, Mui Ne, Phan Thiet. Tel (062) 384 7008. ∑windsurf-vietnam. com Sailing Club Kite School, Mia Resort 24 Nguyen Dinh Chieu St, Mui Ne, Phan Thiet. Tel (062) 384 7440. ∑ sailingclubkite school.com/ Kayaking Buffalo Tours 70-72 Ba Trieu, Hanoi. Tel (04) 3828 0702. ∑ buffalotours.com Green Trail Tours Hanoi. Tel (04) 3754 5268 (ext. 101). ∑ greentrailindochina.com Handspan Adventure Travel 78 Ma May, Hanoi. Tel (04) 3926 2828. ∑ handspan.com Golf Dalat Palace Phu Dong Thien Vuong St, Dalat. Tel (063) 382 1201. ∑ dalatresorts.com BRG King’s Island Golf Resort Dong Mo Lake, Son Tay. Tel (034) 3368 6555. ∑brgkingsislandgolf.vn Lang Ha Driving Range 6 Lang Ha St, Hanoi. Tel (04) 3835 0909. Ocean Dunes 1 Ton Duc Thang St, Phan Thiet. Tel (062) 382 3366. Rach Chiec Driving Range An Phu Village, Dist. 2, HCMC. Tel (08) 3986 0756. Sea Links Golf & Country Club Nguyen Dinh Chieu St, Mui Ne, Phan Thiet. Tel (062) 374 1741. ∑ sealinkscity.com Vietnam Golf Country Club Long Thanh My Village, Dist. 9, HCMC. Tel (08) 6280 0103. ∑ vietnamgolfcc.com Trekking Exotissimo 261–3 Phan Xich Long St, HCMC. Map 2 E2. Tel (08) 3995 9898. ∑ exotravel.com Footprints Ly Nam De St, Hanoi. Map 2 D2. Tel (04) 3933 2844. ∑ footprintsvietnam. com Topas Adventure Tay Ho, Hanoi. Tel (04) 3715 1005. ∑ topastravel.vn Cycling Phat Tire Ventures 109 Nguyen Van Troi St, Dalat. Tel (063) 382 9422. ∑phattireventures.com SpiceRoads ∑ spiceroads.com Veloasia 283/20 Pham Ngu Lao St, Dist. 1, HCMC. Map 2 D5. Tel (08) 3837 6766. ∑ veloasia.com Martial Arts Bay Taekwondo Lane 35, Dang Thai Mai, Tay Ho, Hanoi. Tel (097) 805 5322. Nam Huynh Dao School 29 Tran Quang Khai St, Dist. 1, HCMC. Map 1 C1. Saigon Sports Club 514B Huynh Tan Phat St, Dist. 7, HCMC. Tel (096) 3773 0513. ∑ saigonsc.vn Youth Culture House of HCMC 4 Pham Ngoc Thach St, Dist. 1, HCMC. Map 2 E3. Tel (08) 3829 4345. Culinary Holidays Absolute Travel ∑ absolutetravel.com Vy’s Market Restaurant & Cooking School 3 Nguyen Hoang Street, An Hoi Islet, Hoi An. Tel (0510) 224 1555. ∑ msvy-tastevietnam. com Spas Botanica Spa 83 Nguyen Dinh Chieu St, Mui Ne, Phan Thiet. Tel (948) 877 203. Forester Beach Spa 82 Nguyen Dinh Chieu St, Mui Ne, Phan Thiet. Tel (062) 374 1899. Thap Ba Hot Springs 15 Ngoc Son St, Nha Trang. Tel (058) 383 5345. ∑ thapbahotspring. com.vn Spas Some of Vietnam’s best spas are part of luxurious hotel complexes, like the Six Senses Hideaway Ninh Van Bay (see p238) in Ninh Hoa. However, other, smaller spas are also making a mark, such as the Thap Ba Hot Springs (see p114) in Nha Trang, and Botanica Spa and Forester Beach Spa in Mui Ne. Water villas on the beach at the Six Senses Hideaway Ninh Van Bay, Ninh Hoa 266-267_EW_VTN.indd 267 14/07/16 4:44 pm Eyewitness Travel Section openers template (SourceReport v1.1) Date 15th November 2012 Size 125mm x 217mm “UK” LAYER LAYERS PRINTED: 268-269_EW_VTN.indd 268 17/07/14 3:11 PM survival guide Practical Information 270–279 Travel Information 280–285 268-269_EW_VTN.indd 269 17/07/14 3:11 PM 270 SURVIVAL GUIDE PRACTICAL INFORMATION When to Go The temperature and rainfall patterns in Vietnam fluctuate widely from region to region (see pp38–9). Hence, visitors should make their itineraries according to the area they plan to visit, taking care to avoid the worst of the monsoon. The south gets its heaviest rainfall between May and November, while in the north, May to August are the wettest months. However, as these rainy months are in the off-season, it can work out much cheaper to visit. But bear in mind it can be uncomfortable and inconvenient due to flooding and low visibility. If you want to participate in major holidays such as Tet (see pp32–3), the period from December to February is best, although prices are higher. For better weather and fewer crowds, the period from March to May is the best time to visit. Vietnam today is a popular tourist destination, drawing an ever increasing number of visitors each year. Although the country opened up to tourism during the mid-1990s, since then, infrastructure and related facilities have gradually improved for the millions of tourists visiting each year. All major cities offer accommodations ranging from budget guesthouses to five-star hotels. Most towns and cities also have a range of restaurants catering to varying tastes and budgets. Almost the entire coastline is now open to tourist development and new resorts continue to crop up all the time. The white sand beaches and the spectacular coral reefs add to the beauty. Remote areas such as the northern mountains are still relatively undeveloped – a virtue perhaps – but not too difficult to access given the proliferation of travel agencies in most cities. Government-run outfits are not known for their helpfulness, but there are several reliable private tour operators who can arrange organized trips in most parts of this scenic and beautiful country. What to Take There is very little that cannot be bought in Vietnam’s towns and cities, and at cheaper rates than back home. Villages and more remote areas are not like ly to offer the same range of options though. In general, it is advisable to wear a widebrimmed hat and carry lots of sunblock, while a collapsi ble umbrella is a must for rainy months. It is also a good idea to keep a Swiss army knife, a torch and batteries, and a mos quito repellent handy. The best clothing for the south’s warm, tropical climate is pale, lightweight colored cotton or silk. Shoes should be light in weight as you will probably need to walk a lot. In the north, espe cially in the highlands, nights are cold and day temperatures can fall quite low. Travelers should wear layers to trap body heat in order to keep warm. Visas and Passports Most travelers to Vietnam must possess a valid passport and visa, whether entering by air, land, or sea. Citizens from some European (including the UK) and some Asian countries may receive visa waivers on arrival, of varying Advance Booking The peak flying season to Vietnam is from December to Febru ary. During this time, thousands of Viet Kieu or overseas Vietnamese flock back to their homeland to spend Christmas and Tet with their families. Make reserva tions for this period at least three months in advance. Some travelers avoid this crush by entering overland from either Laos or Cambodia, but most countries in South east Asia A balmy January afternoon at Phan Thiet (see p110) Posters advertising specialized tours offered by a travel agency experience the same holiday rush. Several reliable travel agencies can take care of the bookings (see p273 & p283). It is also wise to book your accommoda tion well in advance during this period, especially if you plan to stay in a high-end hotel. However, budget accommo dations usually present no problem. Woman riding a bicycle through the green fields of Tam Coc, Ninh Binh area 270-271_EW_VTN.indd 270 14/07/16 4:44 pm PRACTICAL INFORMATION 271 DIRECTORY Embassies Australia 8 Dao Tan St, Hanoi. Map 2 F3. Tel (04) 3774 0100. ∑ vietnam.embassy.gov.au Cambodia 71 Tran Hung Dao St, Hanoi. Map 2 D5. Tel (04) 3825 6473. Canada 31 Hung Vuong, Hanoi. Map 1 B3. Tel (04) 3734 5000. ∑ canadainternational.gc.ca/ vietnam France 57 Tran Hung Dao St, Hanoi. Map 2 E5. Tel (04) 3944 5700. ∑ ambafrance-vn.org United Kingdom 31 Hai Ba Trung St, Hanoi. Map 2 E4. Tel (04) 3936 0500. ∑ gov.uk/government/world/ vietnam United States 170 Ngoc Khanh St, Hanoi. Tel (04) 3850 5000. ∑ vietnam.usembassy.gov Visas ∑ visa.mofa.gov.vn Visa on Arrival ∑ VietnamVisaCorp.com Travel Safety Advice Australia ∑ dfat.gov.au ∑ smartraveller.gov.au UK ∑gov.uk/foreign-travel-advice US ∑ travel.state.gov Customs Information Customs regulations for tourists are normally straightforward in Vietnam. Visitors are allowed to bring in 1.5 liters of alcoholic bever ages and 200 cigarettes with them. Cash over US$7,000 must be declared. Upon arrival, visitors have to fill in a cus toms form, a yel low copy of which will be handed back to them. While few foreign visi tors are searched, items deemed politically offen sive or otherwise sensitive can be seized, including pornography, CDs, DVDs, and any material that may be considered critical of the government. A trader passport being inspected at the Chinese border lengths; the visa regulations are under review, however, and more countries may be added to this list. Visas to Vietnam are issued only by Vietnamese embassies and are best applied for through a travel agency. Visitors on organized tours can get a visa on arrival, using a letter of approval from their tour company, which costs US$10– 20. This can be arranged online, saving a trip to the embassy, though there is a stamping fee (currently US$45) to be paid at the airport on top of the visa fee. A standard tourist visa is currently valid for one month, though a three-month visa costs only a little more. Visitors can also apply for a single- or multipleentry visa. Business visas can also be obtained for one to three months, though a letter of sponsorship or invitation from a Vietnamese business partner is required for this. Group of tourists posing before Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum (see p169) Immunization Vaccinations recommended by the World Health Organization (WHO) for anyone traveling in Southeast Asia include hep atitis A and B, tetanus, rubella, measles, mumps, diphtheria, and typhoid. Malaria has been eradicated from most of the country, but there is still a slight risk on Phu Quoc Island and Highland areas. Drug recommenda tions for malaria can vary, so it is best to consult your family doctor or the WHO in advance when traveling to this region. Dengue fever is now a serious problem in Vietnam, as in many of the surrounding countries. Unfortunately, there is currently no vaccination; the virus is transmitted by mosquito and the best form of prevention is the use of repellent and nets. Be aware that the quality of medical facilities and other healthcare in Vietnam, espe cially in smaller towns and rural areas, can be very poor. Patients may also be refused treatment if they are unable to provide proof in advance that they can pay their medical fees. For further informa tion on personal health, see pages 274–5. Travel Safety Advice Visitors can get up-to-date travel safety information from the State Department in the US, the Foreign and Commonwealth Office in the UK, and the Department of Foreign Affairs and Trade in Australia. 270-271_EW_VTN.indd 271 11/08/2016 14:54 272 SURVIVAL GUIDE Tourist Information Vietnam’s hospitality industry is still developing. The two official sources of information and assistance, Saigon Tourist and Vietnam Tourism, are state-owned enterprises that make a profit by operating hotels and arranging tours. They also have very useful and informative websites. Independent travel agents and tour operators (see also p283 & p285) are better and more service-oriented if you need help in planning your own itinerary, or if you want the benefits of a customized package tour. While there are several dubious tour operators offering inferior service, most service providers are reliable and knowledgeable. Admission Charges Most museums, zoos, and botanical gardens charge a modest entry fee, which is usually US$1 or less. Until recently, a two-tiered pricing system was enforced, in which the price for foreig ners could be five times that paid by the locals. This practice has been done away with officially, but is still prevalent in places. Most pagodas do not charge an admission fee, though a dona tion box is always prominently displayed. Facilities for the Disabled Unfortunately, facilities for the disabled are quite rare in this country, especially for those who use a wheelchair. Though the sidewalks are wide, it is quite difficult to maneuver a wheelchair along them as many street ven dors have set up shop there, while others use them for parking their two-wheelers. Facilities for Children Children are adored by all and wel comed almost every where in this family-oriented nation. The sight of parents traveling with small chil dren is common here, and diapers, baby food, and other child-care products are readily available, especially in bigger cities. All restau rants are child friendly; however, most do not offer any special menus. Language With its range of tonal variations, Vietnamese can be a very hard language to learn. Fortunately, many people, esp e cially those who want to sell goods or services to foreigners, speak a smat ter ing of English. It is often fractured, and, at times, difficult to understand, but since Vietnamese is written in the Roman alphabet, most ven dors can write what they need to say. All the major airlines, banks, and hotels have some staff that speak adequate English. In rural areas, it is wise to travel with an interpreter or guide who can be hired for around US$25–50 a day plus expenses. Etiquette Vietnamese etiquette is strict but generally easy to comply with. As a rule, smile a lot, do not raise your voice, and never point at peo ple. If you need to beckon or attract someone’s attention, make sure that your palms are facing downwards before you ges ture to them. It is also important to remem ber that losing your temper is counterproductive. The Viet namese are more likely to respond to your grievances when they are addressed politely. When meeting and greeting, shaking hands is customary. Do not touch anybody on the head as that is considered the repository of the soul. That said, most Vietnamese are tactile individuals. People of the same sex walk arm in arm, pat each other on the shoulder, and hold Neon-lit sign and logo of Saigon Tourist, Ho Chi Minh City There appear to be wheelchair ramps on every block, but these are actually meant for motorbike access. Elevators are not very common, and toilets for the disabled are vir tually unheard of. Nonethe less, even though they should be ready for some discomfort, disabled travelers with special needs should not be deterred by these infrastructural shortcomings. Many highend hotels and resorts are now well equipped to accommo date the dis - abled, while travel agents can hire an assis tant, albeit not always a qualified one, for those who require one. With planning and the help of specialist agencies such as Accessible Journeys and Society for Accessible Travel and Hospitality, inconve niences can be minimized. Pagoda sign asking visitors to dress modestly Multilingual sign at a temple Some foods may be spicy for kids, but ice cream, yogurt, and fresh fruit are always on offer. There is little in the way of special accommodation for children, but many hotels have rooms furnished with three or more single beds. 272-273_EW_VTN.indd 272 14/07/16 4:44 pm PRACTICAL INFORMATION 273 DIRECTORY Travel Agencies and Tourist Information Ann Tours 58 Ton That Tung St, Dist. 1, HCMC. Map 1 C5. Tel (08) 3925 3636. ∑ anntours.com Saigon Tourist 45 Le Thanh Ton St, Dist. 1, HCMC. Map 2 E3. Tel (08) 3827 9279. ∑ saigontourist.net ∑ etravelvietnam.com The Sinh Tourist 52 Luong Ngoc Quyen St, Hanoi. Map 2 E2. Tel (04) 3926 1568. 246 De Tham St, Dist. 1, HCMC. Map 2 D5. Tel (08) 3838 9593. ∑ thesinhtourist.vn TNK Travel Vietnam 220 De Tham St, Dist. 1, HCMC. Map 2 D5. Tel (08) 3920 4766. ∑ tnktravelvietnam.com Tuan Travel 209 Pham Ngu Lao St, Dist. 1, HCMC. Map 2 D5. Tel (08) 3837 9667. ∑ tuantravel.com Vietnam Tourism 146 Nguyen Cong Tru St, Dist. 1, HCMC. Map 2 F4. Tel (08) 3824 1241. 80 Quan Su St, Hanoi. Map 2 D4. Tel (04) 3942 2070. ∑ vietnamtourism.com Disabled Services Accessible Journeys ∑ disabilitytravel.com Disability World ∑ disabilityworld.com Mobility International USA ∑ miusa.org Society for Accessible Travel & Hospitality ∑ sath.org Time and Calendar Vietnam is seven hours ahead of Greenwich Mean Time (GMT), 15 hours ahead of Pacific Standard Time (PST), and 12 hours ahead of Eastern Standard Time (EST). Although the Western Gregorian calendar is used for official and com mercial requirements, the lunar calendar is still used for religious purposes such as calculating the dates of festivals. Measurements The metric system has been in use since the French era. Some basic conversions from the US Standard to metric are: 1 inch = 2.54 centimeters 1 foot = 30 centimeters 1 mile = 1.6 kilometers 1 ounce = 28 grams 1 pound = 454 grams 1 US quart = 0.947 liter 1 US gallon = 3.6 liters Electricity As is common throughout the region, the electrical current in Vietnam is 220 volts. Most wall sockets accommodate Frenchstyle rounded pins as well as Americanstyle flat pins. Hotel staff usually have adaptors on hand but they can also be found Photography Most places in Vietnam are photogenic. Goodquality camera equipment, and memory cards are easily and cheaply available in Ho Chi Minh City, Hanoi, and other large cities. Note that hands. This does not extend to people of the opposite sex unless the couple is married. It is very common for locals to swoop down on foreign babies, often pinching their cheeks or even cuddling them. Some visitors may find this perturbing, but there is only affection behind such spontaneous displays. In apparel, it is not unusual to see a man wearing just a pair of loosefitting shorts. Most women dress modestly. Always keep in mind that the Vietnamese are very particular about propriety, especially in places of worship. At such sites, you should dress appropriately, with arms and legs covered. At the table, it is good manners to wait for the oldest person there to start the meal, unless you are the guest of honor. Never stab food with chopsticks or set them upright in a bowl of food, as that is a funerary practice. It is normal to eat with noisy gusto as an expression of appreciation for the food. Note that although you may be invited to dine in someone’s home, guests are usually entertained in restaurants. See page 243 for additional advice on table manners and customs, as well as tipping. Tourist taking a photograph Travelers relaxing and enjoying a meal at a pavement café photography is restricted in military areas and around police stations. It is also safer to request permission before taking pictures of religious sites or of people, especially the ethnic minorities. at any shop carrying domestic goods. Still, to be on the safe side, it is a good idea to bring along your own adapter. Charge your laptop and cell phone batteries daily as power outages are not uncommon, especially in small and remote towns. 272-273_EW_VTN.indd 273 14/07/16 4:44 pm 274 SURVIVAL GUIDE General Precautions Though traveling in Vietnam is considered to be quite safe, there are some basic precautions that should be followed. Since petty crimes such as bagsnatching and pickpocketing are prevalent in larger cities such as Ho Chi Minh City and Nha Trang, avoid carrying large sums of money or wearing much jewelry. It is advisable to keep part of your cash, and passport in a hidden money belt, and leave a portion of your valuables in your hotel’s safe. Secure your cameras and purse when out walking or on a motorbike ride, as motorbikemounted thieves have been known to pull up alongside, snatch such items, and drive on. Another basic safety rule is to avoid venturing into unfamiliar areas at night. Do not accept coffee invitations from stangers in Downtown Saigon as Filipino Mafia prey upon tourists in this way. It is also important to make photo Hospitals and Medical Facilities Most Westernoperated and uptodate medical facilities in the country are located in Ho Chi Minh City and Hanoi. If you fall ill in a small town, do try and get to one of these two cities. However, though the hospitals and clinics here are sufficient for daily needs and minor surgery, they might lack the drugs, equip ment, or exper tise for more compli cated cases. The same holds true for dental care. If you are seriously injured, then it is better to leave Viet nam and go to major destinations such as Bangkok, Hong Kong, or even Singapore. Most pharmacies in Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City now stock a wide variety of drugs, but do check the expiry date before buying. If you re quire some specific medicine, do remember to carry a sufficient supply from home. Travel Insurance A general travel insurance policy is a good idea in most places, but especially in this part of the world. Make sure that in addition to illness and injury, it covers theft as well. Most importantly, it should cover medical evacuation in case of an emergency. Food- and Water-borne Diseases The most common ailments are diarrhoea, dysentery, and giardiasis, all of which are foodrelated. Each of these is treatable with antibiotics, and preventable by following some general safeguards. Wash your hands Personal Security and Health Vietnam is one of the safest places to travel in the world. In addition to a very author itarian government, the country boasts a generally law-abiding society. Visitors can go about their activities in relative safety, although commonsense rules do apply. Sadly, petty crime is on the increase in big cities. Although violent crime is rare, it does happen. The Vietnamese establishments are generally clean, and while street food is safe enough, it is better to stick to bottled water. Healthcare facilities are still lacking. With few ambu lances or wellequipped emergency rooms, it is wise to carry travel insurance |